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icked up two more English merchants also, and two young, É. gentlemen, the last going to Paris only; so that in all there were six of us, and five servants; the two merchants and the two Portuguese contenting themselves with one servant between two, to save the charge ; and as for me, I got an English sailor to travel with me as a servant, besides my man Friday, who was too much a stranger to be capable of supplying the place of a servant on the road. In this manner I set out from Lisbon; and our company being very well mounted and armed, we made a little troop, whereof they did me the honor to call me captain, as well because I was the oldest man, as because I had two servants, and, indeed, was the original of the whole journey. As I have troubled you with none of my sea journals, so I shall trouble you now with none of my land journal; but some adventures that happened to us in this tedious and difficult journey I must not omit. When we came to Madrid, we, being all of us strangers to Spain, were willing to stay some time to see the court of § ain, and to see what was worth observing; but it being the latter part of the summer, we hastened away, and set out from Madrid about the middle of October; but when we came to the edge of Navarre, we were alarmed, at several towns on the way, with an account that so much snow was fallen on the French side of the mountains, that several travellers were obliged to come back to Pampeluna, after having attempted, at an extreme hazard, to pass on. When we came to Pampeluna itself, we found it so indeed; and to me, that had been always used to a hot climate, and to countries where I could scarce bear any clothes on, the cold was insufferable; nor, indeed, was it more painful than surprising, to come but ten days before out of Old Castile, where the weather was not only warm, but very hot, and immediately to feel a wind from the Pyrenean mountains so very keen, so severely cold, as to be intolerable, and to endanger benumbing and perishing of our fingers and toes. Poor Friday was really frightened when he saw the mountains all covered with snow, and felt cold weather, which he had never seen or selt before in his life. To mend the matter, when we came to Pampeluna, it continued snowing with so much violence, and so long, that the people said winter was come before its time; and the roads, which were difficult before, were now quite impassable; for, in a word, the snow lay in Some places too thick for us to travel, and being not hard frozen, as is the case in the northern countries, there was no going without being in danger of being buried alive every step. We staid no less than twenty days at Pampeluna; when, seeing the winter coming on, and no likelihood of its being better—for it was the severest winter all over Europe that had been known in the memory of man—I proposed that we should all go away to Fontarabia, and there take shipping for Bourdeaux, which was a very little voyage. But while I was considering this, there came in four French gentlemen, who, having been stopped on the French side of the passes, as we were on the Spanish, had found out a guide, who, traversing the country near the head of Languedoc, had brought them over the mountains by such ways, . they were not much incommoded with the snow ; for where they met with snow in any quantity, they said it was frozen hard enough to bear them and their horses. We sent for this guide, who told us he would undertake to carry us the same way with no hazard from the Snow, provided we were armed sufficiently to protect ourselves from wild beasts; “For,” he said, “ upóh these great snows it was frequent for Some wolves to show themselves at the foot of the mountains, being made ravenous for want of food, the ground being covered with snow.” We told him we were well enough prepared for such creatures as they were, if he would ensure us from a kind of two-legged wolves, which, we were told, we were in most danger from. especially on the French side of the mountains. IHe satisfied us that there was no danger of that kind in the way that wo were to go: So we readily agreed to follow him, as did also twelve other gentlemen, with their servants, some I’rench
some Spanish, who, as I said, had attempted to go, and were obliged to come back again. Accordingly, we set out from Pampeluna, with our guide, on the 15th of November ; and, indeed, I was surprised, when, instead of going forward, he came directly back with us on the same road that we came from Madrid, about twenty miles; when, having passed two rivers, and come into the plain country, we found ourselves in a warm climate again, where the country was pleasant, and no snow to be seen ; but on a sudden, turning to his left, he approached the mountains another way; and though it is true the hills and precipices looked dreadful, yet he made so many tours, such meanders, and led us by such winding ways, that we insensibly passed the height of the mountains without being much encumbered with the snow; and, all on a sudden, he showed us the pleasant, fruitful provinces of Languedoc and Gascony, all green and flourishing, though, indeed, at a great distance, and we had some rough way to pass still. We were a little uneasy, however, when we found it snowed one whole day and a night so fast, that we could not travel; but he bid us be easy; we should soon be past it all : we found, indeed, that we began to descend every day, and to come more north than before; and so, depending upon our guide, we went on. It was about two hours before night, when, our guide being something before us, and not just in sight, out rushed three monstrous wolves, and after them a bear, out of a hollow way adjoining to a thick wood: two of the wolves made at the guide, and had he been far before us, he would have been devoured before we could have helped him ; one of them fastened upon his horse, and the other attacked the man with that violence, that he had not time, or presence of mind enough, to draw his pistol, but hallooed and cried out to us most lustily. My man Friday, being next me, I bade him ride up, and see what was the matter. As soon as Friday came in sight of the man, he hallooed out as loud as the other, “O master l O master l’” but, like a bold fellow, rode directly up to the poor man, and with his pistol shot the wolf that attacked him in the head. It was happy for the poor man that it was my man Friday; for he having been ...P to such creatures in his country, #: had no fear upon him, but went close up to him and shot him, as above; whereas any other of us would have fired at a farther distance, and have perhaps either missed the wolf, or endangered shooting the man. But it was enough to have terrified a bolder man than I; and, indeed, it alarmed all our company, when, with the noise of Friday's pistol, we heard on both sides the most disma howling of wolves; and the noise, redoubled by the echo of the mountains, o: to us as if there had been a prodigious number of them; and perhaps there was not such a few as that we had no cause of apprehensions; however, as Friday had killed this wolf, the other that had fastened upon the horse left him immediately, and fled, without doing him any damage, having happily fastened upon his head, where the bosses of the bridle o stuck in his teeth. But the man was most hurt; for the raging creature had bit him twice, once in the arm, and the other time a little above his knee; and though he had made some defence, he was just as it were tumblin down, by the disorder of his horse, when Friday came up j shot the wolf. It is easy to suppose that at the noise of Friday’s pistol we all mended our pace, and rode up as fast as the way, which was very #. would give us leave, to see what was the matter. As soon as we came clear of the trees, which blinded us before, we saw clearly what had been the case, and how Friday had disengaged the poor guide, though we did not presently discern what kind of creature it was he had killed. But never was a fight managed so hardily, and in such a surprising manner, as that which followed between Friday and the bear, which gave us all (though at first we were surprised and afra d for him) the greatest diversion imaginable. A the bear is a heavy, clumsy creature, and does not gallop as the wolf does, who is wift and light, so he has two particula.
qualities which generally are the rule of his actions; first, as to men, who are not his proper prey (he does not usually attempt them, except they first attack him, unless he be excessive hungry, which it is probable might now be the case, the
round being covered with snow), if you do not meddle with
im, he will not meddle with you; but then you must take care to be very civil to him, and give him the road, for he is a very nice gentleman ; he will not go a step out of his way for a prince; nay, if you are really afraid, your best way is to look another way, and keep going on ; for Sometimes if you
stop, and stand still, and look steadfastly at him, he takes it for an affront; but if you throw or toss any thing at him, and it
hits him (though it were but a bit of stick as big as your finger); he thinks himself abused, and sets all other business aside to pursue his revenge, and will have satisfaction in point of F. ;—this is his first quality: the next is, if he be once affronted, he will never leave you, night nor day, till he has his revenge, but follows, at a good round rate, till he overtakes you. . . . . *My man Friday had delivered our guide, and when we came up to him he was helping him, off his horse—for the man was both hurt and frightened—when, on a sudden, we espied the bear come out of the wood; and a vast monstrous one it was, the biggest by far that ever I saw. We were all a little surprised when we saw him ; but when Friday saw him, it was easy to see joy and courage in the fellow’s countenance: “O, O, O !” says Friday, three times pointing to him ; “O, master you give me te leave me shakee te hand with him; me makee you good laugh.”. - I was surprised to see the -fellow so well pleased : “You fool,” says I, “ he will eat you up.”—“Eatee me up ! eatee me up !” says Friday, twice over again ; “me eatee him up; me makee you good laugh ; you all stay here, me show you good laugh.” So down he sits, and gets off his boots in a moment, and puts on a pair of pumps (as we call the flat shoes they wear, and which he had in his pocket), gives my