[For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] BALLOON FRAMES---IVth Article. It is gratifying to see so many favorable notices in your columns, endorsing the practicability, economy and general usefulness of the balloon frame, and with such practical suggestions and improvements as have been made by C. G. Taylor, of Rock Island, Ill., Suel Foster, of Muscatine, Iowa, and W. S. Hand, Milwaukee, Wis. Opinions from these gentlemen are opinions worth having, because they live in a section of country where the balloon frame is in the ascendancy, and they are also practically aware of all the merits and demerits of the old fashioned frame. We should like to have somebody take the other side of the question, and give some practical reasons why the balloon frame is not 40 per cent. cheaper, and not better adapted to the construction of wooden buildings than any other known style of frame. If the balloon frame has a weak spot, we should be glad to have it pointed out. As a matter of economy in architecture, it is worth the attention of all the building community; it will pay them to thoroughly investigate it; it will pay for the New-York State Agricultural Society, and for the Agricultural Societies of other States, to appoint a committee to examine and report its advantages, and its disadvantages if they can find any. the name The union of concrete with a wooden frame, strikes us very favorably; if a suggestion would be in order, we would use the balloon frame for this purpose. The studding we would rip from the floor plank, 14 inches thick, and place them three or four feet apart. It has been demonstrated that a concrete building is sufficiently strong without any frame, but the introduction of a frame obviates all other objections that we know of to concrete alone. The balloon frame with concrete, admits of ties in every direction, makes the whole wall stiffer and stronger, and gives the floor joists a better bearing; a universal brace to a piece of timber, makes a great difference in its strength, and changes its capacity from hundred weights to tons. A perfect familiarity with every known form of economy in the erection of buildings, warrants us in stating that we believe a union of concrete and the balloon frame to be within the line of the most rigid economy yet found in any other manner of building, and that a building put up in this manner would be cheaper, (inside finish excepted,) than the frame of a house constructed in the old style. Any person contemplating the erection of a wooden building, would save money by investing fifty dollars in travelling expenses, to examine a balloon frame; a barn 20 by 40 has just been completed at Irvington, N. Y., for Joseph W. Hartley, Esq., and a number in the vicinity of Newark, N. J., both dwellings and barns. One gentleman informed me that he had put up a building some years ago, after reading an article on the subject by Solon Robinson; so well is he pleased with it, that he has built another in the same manner, and he estimates that he has saved between two and three hundred dollars by adopting the balloon frame. this frame to the largest class of barns. GEO. E. WOODward, MOLE TRAP. The balloon frame belongs to no one person; nobody claims it as an invention, and yet in the art of construction it is one of the most sensible improvements that has ever been made. It is safe to say that there is not a farm west of the great lakes but what can furnish an illustration of its success; the wooden buildings in Chicago, Milwaukee, Dubuque, St. Paul, San Francisco, and other cities of the west and far west, with scarcely a single exception, are built with halloon frames. The depots, freight houses, and other wooden buildings of the Illinois Central, Chicago and Galena, Milwaukee and Mississippi, and other western railroads are constructed in the same manner. We know of a block of five buildings in Chicago, used as stores, total dimensions of which are 125 feet front, by 100 feet deep, three stories high, that perfectly fulfils all requirements for storage and business, and has done so for years. A hotel at Sparta, Monroe Co., Wisconsin, above 40 feet square, has the studding spliced three times, and the upper room is used as a ball room, the most severe test that can be applied to it, and when dancing times are over, it is used as the "school section," a prominent feature in every western hotel. We have seen farm houses and town houses in Illinois, Wisconsin, Iowa and Minnesota, built with balloon frames, and nowise inferior in size, comfort, convenience, style and finish to the best examples in the State of New-into an inch plank, 9 inches long, and 34 inches wideYork. three teeth being set at each end. Nail this piece of plank containing the teeth to a 4 inch scantling, about 18 or 20 inches from the end. The scantling should be about 6 feet long. about mole traps, I send you a description of one which Having seen an inquiry some time since in the Co. GENT., we use in our market garden. It is cheap, efficient and durable. Any farmer can make it himself. It consists of six teeth, nine inches long, made of inch wire, well sharpened at the points. These teeth are set On the opposite end of the scantling nail a board hollowed out on one edge, and rounded off on the other, with the convex side up. This is to hold the trap firmly to its place, and should be pressed into the ground when set. Now make a set of common dead fall triggers, and your trap is complete. The only instance of a balloon frame having moved from its foundation, that has come to our knowledge during eight years practical experience in our profession at the west, was some years ago, at Oshkosh, Fond du Lac county, Wisconsin. A tornado, about 8 a. m., lifted and moved entire about 80 or 40 feet, a balloon house, and doing no further damage than waking up the family; at the same time an old fashioned frame in the immediate vicinity was Set your trap with the teeth immediately over the mole uttterly demolished. There is the same difference between track. In the center, between the teeth, press down the a balloon frame and the mortice and tenon timber frame, track, and let the point of the long trigger rest on this that there is between a bushel basket and a dry goods box; pressed portion of the track. The mole throws the trap drop them from a house top, and you can soon find out trigger. Having three teeth on each side, he is sure to be by rooting up the hard earth under the point of the long which will stand the most hard knocks. The name of caught, coming either way. [The dotted lines in the figure "Basket Frame" would convey a better impression, but show the position of the mole track.1 M. D. BOWMAN, [For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator]. Flax-Seed, Linseed Oil, and Oil Cake. MESSRS. EDITORS-Your editorial "Notes from the Connecticut Valley," in Co. GENT. of June 21st, were exceedingly interesting, in consequence of having heard much of that section of country from neighbors who had formerly resided there, and also very instructive, as the farmers of Franklin county seem to be first-rate managers, and, as a natural consequence, prosperous and progressively improving COUNTRY GENTLEMEN. Success to them; and may their industry and ingenuity be extensively imitated by their brother farmers in other States! Your "note" as to the composition of the feeding stuff used by Mr. ISAAC BARTON for his growing stock, and your subsequent remark connected therewith, as to the comparative value of flax-seed and oil cake, called to my remembrance some items of information as to these feeding materials and as to the use of linseed oil, which I intended to communicate to you and your readers some time ago. Though prevented while the information was yet fresh in my mind, the delay may yet prove rather an advantage than otherwise, as the statement and the remarks you have made in reference to Mr. Barton's employment of flax-seed will undoubtedly have awakened attention, and excited to inquiry in regard to the comparative advantages of the various modes of using flax-seed and its products-the oil and the cake. A few weeks ago, then, I was informed by a gentleman who had been looking at the stock of some of the more celebrated breeders of cattle in Ohio, that he learned from two of those whose stock he had inspected that they had discontinued almost entirely the use of oil cake, and had substituted in place of it a mixture of ground grain with an addition thereto of a certain amount of linseed oil. Whether this change had been made in consequence of finding some, more or less, of the oil cake in market adulterated or of inferior quality, or with a view merely to economy, the price of oil being comparatively low, my informant had not inquired. But from whatever cause these breeders had been led to make the change from oil cake to a mixture of linseed oil with the meal of Indian corn and other grain, they stated, as the result of their experience, that the change was entirely satisfactory to them, and that they were sure that they could thus supply, for their cattle's use, as much oily and other nutritive matter as the very best cake ever contained, at a less cost than by purchasing the cake, while at the same time they escaped all risk of an inferior or fraudulent article, and could thus secure a choice as to what kind of grain or other feeding stuff's they should combine with the oil. At first, they said, cattle do not relish or take hold of the mixture of meal and oil, but after a few days coaxing and fixing of the mess in various ways, they seem to relish the mixture just as well as oil cake itself. In England and Scotland, also, experiments have been tried in feeding linseed oil and linseed itself, the former being poured upon and mixed with chaff, bran and other mill feed, and the latter mixed and ground with grain, as is done by Mr. BARTON, or mixed with chaffed straw or other bulky food so as to secure thorough mastication. Sheep, as well as neat stock, have been fed with the oil in the manner just named, and the experiment is reported to have succeeded quite satisfactorily, in one instance so much so as to lead to a decided preference to the use of the oil in this way to that of oil cake in the usual way. Taking it for granted, then, that linseed oil mixed with ground grain, as in the case of the Ohio breeders, or with bran, mill feed and cut straw, as in the experiments made in Great Britain, can be economically and successfully used in the place of oil cake, it seems highly probable that the use of the seed itself, either ground with other grain, as Mr. BARTON uses it, or crushed, or boiled, or added to other feed, as in the case mentioned in Co. GENT., April 21, 1859, would be found on trial a still better mode of availing oneself of the oily and other nutritive elements of this not yet duly appreciated feeding stuff. The use of the feed itself, rather than either the oil or the cake would secure the following and perhaps other advantages: Saving the expense of extracting the oil; guaranteeing the absence of all adulteration; making a more palatable mess than any fixed with oil, and greater economy. A. R. A. SORE TEATS IN COWS. To cure a wound in the teat of a cow, I would, if the opening is not very large and the discharge of milk from it abundant, take the following course: Keep the cow in the barn and the milk in the bag reduced by frequent milkings. Cauterise the edges and inside of the opening with a hot iron; then let the burn heal by granulation, (as of course it would do,) the contraction consequent upon healing by granulation will probably close the artificial opening. A. Buffalo, N. Ý. DIRECTIONS FOR MILKING "L. T." says in the Ohio Cultivator, "That there are many good milkers who cannot tell others how the thing should be done." He evidently does not lack in the telling part, for we never saw better practical directions to milkers than his, which we copy below: start the milk. Set the bucket a little forward and outward, "Brush the udder and flank, handle the teats a little, and the side towards the milker a little raised. Grasp the near front and off hind teat, or alternately, as near the end as possible, without milking on the hand, keeping the left arm in a position to protect the pail, if necessary. Place the first forefinger directly in the center of, not around the teat, and close the other fingers successively down upon the center. Avoid conversation, milk as rapidly as possible, and quit when done. Never milk only one teat at once, or use only the thumb and finger, unless unavoidable. If desired to save the stripping, wait ten or fifteen minutes, then take what has collected."" WHEN TO SKIM MILK. phatic tone as to the best time: She says that the right A dairy-woman, in Western New-York, speaks in this emtime to skim milk is "just as the milk begins to sour in the bottom of the pans. Then the cream is all at the surface, and should at once be removed-with as little of the milk as possible. If allowed to remain until the acid reaches the cream or to become thick, it diminishes the cream, and impairs it in quality. That housewife or dairymaid who thinks to obtain a greater quantity by allowing the milk to stand beyond that time, labors under a most egregious mistake. Any one who doubts this, has only to try it to prove the truth of this assertion. Milk should be looked to at least three times a day." STRIPED BUGS. The striped bugs-oh the rascals! The Co. GENT. of the 7th June, p. 367, copies from the N. E. Farmer, a remedy for these fellows-" turpentine, cotton batting and a split stick." I tried it without any success. Water would have been just as effectual. The next remedy that came to hand was "hen dung," pulverized and scattered on the hill around the vines. Now I have watered mine twice a week with liquid manure made of hen dung, as strong as it could be made, by putting it around the hill, but not directly on the vines. This I have done for the purpose of making them grow, which it has done, but has had no effect upon the bugs. I also tried kerosene in the same way the turpentine was to be used, with the same results they seem to delight in perfumery, (for I take it, it is the odor that is to do the work of expulsion;) it may be, however, that our bugs are different from other people's bugs-their nasal organs may be depraved. One other thing we tried-it was pinching them back as they say of grape vines-this proved the most effectual of anything. The number that were destroyed in this way is astonishing. While upon bugs allow me to say, that I like the philosophy of the Long Island farmers, as described in the GENT. of June 28, p. 413. This looks as though it might work, and although attended with some labor, it is better than to try to lead them off by the nose-they are a nuisance any wav. J. L. R. Jefferson County, N. Y. MANURING THE WHEAT CROP. crop, or for wheat the succeeding year, yet when the soil do so, In an article with this heading given about a year ago, the COUNTRY GENTLEMAN took occasion to urge upon its Central and Western New-York readers, who would again engage in wheat growing, the importance of especial applications of manure for that purpose. The lesson of another season's crop, studied with especial reference to this subject, induces us to recall the subject, that we may add some additional considerations in its favor, as well as indicate some very generally available resources of fertiliz-resources for manure, but have scarcely room or need to ing material, especially on soils not otherwise so well adap- the "Manurial Resources of the Farm," (Co. GENT., June if the reader will re-peruse our recent article on ted to this greatly prized and valuable cereal product. Mr. HARRIS, in his Yale Lecture on "Wheat Growing subject. Briefly, however, on a point or two. 14, '60,) where we spoke at some length on the general in America," recently published in this journal, (Co. Gent., June 21-28, '60,) remarks that "in Western New-York manure is seldom applied directly to wheat; some say it is injurious." It was thought as stated in our former article, "to stimulate a heavy growth of straw at the expense of the grain, and by the rankness and succulency of the former, increasing the liability to lodge, and tending also to produce rust and mildew in the standing grain." This opinion is far less prevalent than formerly, and for two reasons: We have better learned the requirements of different soils as to manures, and the effect of different fertilizers on the wheat plant; and the early ripening varieties now sown are far less liable to be injuriously affected by manure than the later kinds formerly so popular. The present practice is fast conforming to the view expressed by Mr. H., "that on most farms the wheat would be very grateful for a little good, well-rotted manure, either plowed in or spread on the surface just before sowing." Could we turn under a good growth of grass or clover, say a month before sowing on our wheat, and then proshould think the prospect good for a crop, though it would perly reduce the surface soil for drilling in the seed, we still be improved by some fertilizing application on the surface. We but here repeat an old authority on the subject: THAER, in his Principles of Agriculture, remarks that "the best and most successful way of obtaining good wheat crops, is to sow on broken-up clover land; would plow under the second growth of clover when eight and if on friable loam, after one single plowing." He or ten inches high, and a month before seeding, that it may have time to decompose and the ground become equalized. This, Mr. Harris allows may be a good practice on light soils, but-and we agree with him in the opinion on heavy soils it would be better to summer fallow and apply the same clover after it had been fed to cattle or sheep. In this case a light dressing of good barn manure, well rotted, would be better than a heavy green manuring of clover, especially in its effect upon the product of grain. On loamy soils needing lime, (as shown by the growth "We are very likely," as stated a year ago, to throw away our seed and labor, now-a-days, in sowing any but rich, warm, quick soils to wheat." We must get a large growth of healthy, early maturing plants, or the wheat midge will destroy the crop, in greater part at least. In of sorrel, yellow dock, and the like,) we think very faorder to succeed well on these rather light, but early ripening soils, "wheat," as the lecture remarks, "needs vorably of applying a muck and lime compost, well desomething to give it a start in the fall, and a little well-composed together as a preparation for the wheat crop. rotted manure, not plowed in deep," proves "very acceptable." It is found in practice that a loamy soil, in good heart, dressed with from ten to fifteen loads of composted manure per acre-the same mixed intimately and evenly with the surface soil—will give "that good start in the fall," which will enable our early varieties to come out "ahead of the midge," and produce profitable crops. Muck that is already partially decomposed can soon be of muck a foot thick, of a size suitable to the amount to prepared for use. The process is as follows: Make a bed be composted. Over this spread a layer of fresh slaked lime at least one inch in thickness. Put on in the same way other layers of muck and lime, varying the thickness of the former according to the quantity of lime to be used. Some farmers of considerable experience use from six to That manuring for the wheat crop is no new thing in eight per cent., others less than one-half the amount, acWestern New-York, we could readily show by reference to cording to the nature and acidity of the muck. The lime almost every statement of premium crops for the last fif- should be slaked in brine-using a bushel of salt dissolved teen years. For instance, in 1850, a Niagara county far-in water to six bushels of lime. When the decomposition mer harvested 634 bushels per acre, after manuring his ground with well-rotted barn manure at the rate of twenty loads per acre, and adding a top-dressing of 40 bushels of lime, over the whole field of nearly seven acres. This is a remarkable product, but there are many going above forty bushels, a large share of them owing their bounteous Muck and ashes may be composted in the same way, or yield to some course of manuring, either from the barn- muck and any fermenting manure. One-third good stable yard or compost heap, or by plowing under clover or top-manure to two-thirds muck forms an excellent compost dressings of lime or leached ashes, these last in some instances stimulating a very large product of grain. Our heavy soils, most natural to wheat when underdrained, will bear, and well repay moderate applications of maIn most cases, however, the effect sought could be more economically reached by applying the manure to the land while in grass, to be plowed under for some other nure. becomes active, which it will in a few weeks, the heap should be shoveled over and well mixed, and will very soon be ready for use. From twelve to fifteen loads per acre would produce good results, especially if intimately and equally mixed with the surface soil. for any crop, and from repeated experiments we are pre- TWO PLANS OF HOUSES. from $1,200 to $3,000. My house cost $1,500, all ready to move in, all finished from cellar to the chambers. The We have received at different times many plans of dwell-same plan can be varied to suit builders, to have larger or ings from our correspondents, for which they will please smaller rooms, and still keep its well formed and beautiful accept our thanks. Some of them, which have appeared proportions. the most meritorious, we have occasionally inserted in our columns. The necessity of both re-drawing and reducing them in size, involves considerable labor, and has in some instances delayed their appearance longer than we have intended. This is the case with the two plans we have here selected for insertion. The first, (Figs. 1 and 2,) is from B. F. FISHER of Zilwaukie, Mich., with several alterations or improvements in accordance with his request. He makes the following accompanying remarks: "Here is a plan for a house, containing a full supply of suitable rooms for health, convenience, comfort, economy and gentility, and costing only from $750 to $1,500, according to the cost of materials. Here it would only cost the first sum. I think that in most places it could be built for $1,000. I wish to see the plan published in the COUNTRY GENTLEMAN. It has many excellences, but I do not wish to take up the space to point them out now. offer the plan for criticism." Fig. 1-PRINCIPAL FLOOR. J. Parlor G Dining-room-E. Kit chen-H. Bed-room-I. ClosetC. Pantry--B. Wash-room-D. Store-room-F. Entry-A. Woodhouse. D E Fig. 3-PRINCIPAL FLOOR, Fig. 2-SECOND FLOOR, The alterations we have made consist in, 1, connecting the two front verandahs, which were entirely separate in the plan sent, and consequently more contracted in appearance; 2, reducing the number of windows and enlarging the size of some; and, 3, in altering the arrangement of the second floor, by curving the stairs at the top, economizing room, and avoiding a bad shape to the larger of the rooms in the rear, caused by the projecting closet from the smaller rear room. If the latter needs a closet, it may be placed as the dotted lines indicate, removing the window to the other side. My house stands on the southrely side of the road, and from all the main rooms you can see the road; the kitchen is on the warm side in winter and cool side in summer. It is well adapted to a corner lot, and for any corner on the lot, no matter on which side of the street. Just imagine the plan on the other side of the paper, [i. e. hold it reversed up to the light,] and it will suit the north side of a road and face the south and west, as all houses should on that side, as this does on the south side. "I find in most plans in the books, that the most essential parts are left out, that the inexperienced builder needs most-that is, a full working plan of the house, and the details of the contract between proprietor and contractor. I have thought that one good planned cottage, with eleva tions, perspective view, working plans and contract, with quality and cost of material, would be worth more to the people, if inserted in your REGISTER, than half the costly. books ever published. one size; and the long rafters will be all the same length; "You will perceive that the main rooms are all about the bracket and outside finish cut on one bevel, which all carpenters will appreciate." This plan is quite similar to the one given on page 24 of the first volume of RURAL AFFAIRS, and reversed; but as it contains some additional conveniences, we think it worthy of insertion. It is less compact in form than the This appears to be a neat and compact plan, and capa-preceding one, and will therefore require more exterior ble of being built at moderate cost for the room furnished. wall and cost more for the space furnished; but it supThe kitchen has hardly enough light, there being but one plies a greater number of conveniences, is better adapted window, and that under a veranda. The want of windows for a fine house and would present a better external apon opposite sides may make it hot in dog-days; this ob-pearance, if the latter was properly designed jection may however be partly obviated by opening the door and window of the pantry, or by allowing fresh air to blow from the wood-house. The second design is from CLARK SWALLOW of East Bridgewater, Mass. He remarks :— WATERING PLANTS. During the summer it becomes necessary to resort to artificial watering for garden plants, trees, &c., and it is a "I take the liberty to send a sketch of a plan of a cot-matter of considerable importance to perform this operatage house, built for myself the past season, from a plan tion in the best way and at the right time; the chief obof my own. I looked in vain to find a plan to suit me in ject being to supply just as much water as the plants need all the books that I could find, including your excellent and no more. To do this, notice their condition at the yearly, the RURAL REGISTER; I could find plans that would do, but were too costly for me, or those that were not large enough to accommodate my family. The plan I send you is well adapted to the wants of the mechanic, the farmer, or the gentleman, and to those of moderate or good circumstances. The same plan can be made to cost time of application. If trees, which have been transplanted in the spring seem to be inactive, and thus throwing off but a small amount of moisture, very little water is required; young trees especially are apt to remain three or four weeks after being set out, without making any growth, and to give them an abundance of water would cause them to remain dormant rather than to help their growth. In such cases it is best to use water but very little. Again, if a tree grows fast and draws most of the moisture from the soil, water should be given, but not upon the surface. Break the top soil, and let the water soak well into the ground and not run off or form a hard crust upon the surface. In watering garden plants the operation often does more hurt than good. By applying it on the top a crust is formed, and if water is again poured upon this crust it immediately runs off or helps to make a thicker crust upon the surface. This keeps the ground dry and the plant makes but a poor progress. A better way is to make several holes in the plant beds, or small ones by the side of the plant and pour the water into them. In this way it gradually soaks into the earth and the moisture is easily obtained by the rootlets of the plant. It is indeed the only proper way of artificial watering. The sun is 3. In connection with the house, a poultry-yard should be provided, which should contain a grass plot, gravel, some quantities of slacked lime, and dry ashes. 4. The inside of the poultry house should be whitewashed twice a year or oftener, which will serve to keep it free from vermin, and the hens will be kept in better condition. 5. Pure water in sufficient quantities must be provided several times a day, in winter and in summer. 6. Feed should be given at regular periods. To fatten fowls, they must not be allowed to run at large. L. [For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] SURFACE MANURING AGAIN. THE WASHING OF THE MANURE IN TIMES OF RAIN. MESSRS. EDITORS-I have no disposition, even if I had the ability and leisure, to enter into the discussion of this question. But as this is an excessively wet day-wind northeast and chilly-the out-door prospect dark and gloomy, I thought it a fit time to say a word upon this dark subject the application of manure. I have been led to this from an article in the Co. GENT. Evening is the best time to water plants. not shining and the state of the atmosphere is usually of June 28, p. 410, in which the writer uses many argumoist, which prevents a ready evaporation. L. [For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] GRAPES IN TEXAS. This is a fine grape region, and seems to be peculiarly adapted to the growth of the vine, and the making of wine. The Mustang grape is very common, covering many a tree. It is now beginning to ripen. Its grapes are large, of a black or deep blue when ripe. Its racemes are small but abundant. Some vines are said to produce It is a great as high as forty or fifty bushels of grapes. I runner, sometimes extending over more than one tree. measured a vine recently which was eight inches in diameter. It almost covered a large post oak. The Mustang wine is of a rich, red color, acid, and pronounced by many to be superior to any native wine. This grape seems to be a form of the vitis labrusca, the parent of some of our best native grapes. The Post Oak grape is another common grape in this section, but it is so low in its habit that its grapes are rarely suffered to mature, being greedily devoured by wild and domestic animals. They are large and purple, with a thin skin, and very pleasant for table use. This may be the vitis rupestris of Schule, but as I have not access to his description of that grape I cannot tell, only knowing that it is low in growth, and a native of Texas. I have been told of other grapes, some of which I hope to see, and I will then tell you some things about them. Before closing I will mention an instance showing the abundance of the Mustang grape, which was told me by Dr. Spann of Washington Co. He and his brother, with some eight or ten negroes, collected grapes in their vicinity and made seven hundred gallons of wine in about ten days. He said the time occupied in wine making did not exceed S. B. BUCKLEY. two weeks at the most. Dresden, Navarro Co., Texas, July 1, 1860. [For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] MAXIMS FOR POULTRY KEEPERS. Those who expect to be successful in raising or managing poultry, or hope to make it a paying part of farm business, should observe a few simple rules which will save them from much disappointment and trouble. 1. It is not advisable to keep large numbers of hens together, or go into the poultry business on a large scale. It is found impracticable and unprofitable-besides they cannot be kept in so healthy a condition as where but few are together. 2. It is impossible to keep hens to advantage without having a suitable and properly arranged house for their accommodation. This is as necessary as that a farmer should have a stable for his cattle, or a dwelling for his family. ments, and makes some explanations to sustain his theory. Now this may all be satisfactory to him, and manure applied to the surface may be his best mode of using it-as in some cases it undoubtedly is--not because nature, “his teacher," points out this as the best way, but simply because the manure to be used, the soil upon which it is to be put, and the crop to follow, were better adapted to this mode of application. Then again, the lay of the land, it seems to me, would make a good deal of difference as to the best and most economical way of applying manure. Hilly or rolling land that is liable to wash more or less during the fall, winter, and spring rains, and while the frost is in the g ound, so that the water cannot settle off, or when the snow passes off rapidly in the spring, while the ground is yet frozen, except an inch or two of the surface, must lose much of the manure when put upon the surface in the fall. With land quite level and flat the objection would not be as great. To illustrate from my own experience. My farm lies in an oblong form, it being about one-third longer than broad. The center, through the whole length, is considerably lower than either side, so much so that nearly all the surface water finds its way to the middle, where it passes off through a low strip of land into Black river, consequently this strip through the center was quite wet. When I bought the farm, ten years ago, I put a ditch through the center, the whole length, three feet wide aud from two and a half to three feet deep. Into this I have brought several lateral stone drains, where they were most needed. Now in the fall and spring there is quite a stream of water running through this drain, also during winter thaws, and it brings with it a good deal of surface soil and mold from adjoining plowed land-of this I am sure, from the fact of my having a kind of sink or basin through which the water runs less rapidly, and the sediment has an opportunity to settle, or at least a portion of it, also from some depressions in the bottom of the drain, which soon become filled up after having been cleaned out. Now if manure be put upon a surface similar to this in the fall, (and there is a good deal of such land,) how can a large waste be avoided from washing? If the manure is well rotted and fine it will pass off in the form of sediment -if coarse and raw, in a liquid form. At least I think it would be reasonable to expect this result. I beg to be excused from "thinking a little longer," merely to force myself into the belief that nature's mode of applying manure is more perfect than many other things she does, where man has improved upon and modified her works. Nature brought us into the world in a state of nudity, but it would be hardly decent to remain so, or comfortable either, in dog days or with the thermometer much below zero. J. L. R. Jefferson Co., July 5. |