And, O ye Fountains, Meadows, Hills, and Groves,

Think not of any severing of our loves!

Yet, in my heart of hearts, I feel your might;

I only have relinquished one delight

To live beneath your more habitual sway.

WORDSWORTH.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Advantages of a holiday-Advice of Democritus, Junior-Difficulty in

selecting a route-Auvergne, Piedmont, and Savoy decided on-

The system of passports-English railways and railway carriages-

Boulogne-Auction of conger eels-Paris-Exhibition of modern

pictures at the Palais des Tuileries-Great national 'exposition'--

Scenes of the late revolution-Victor Hugo's speech respecting

theatres-Anecdote of Bonaparte and Catalani-Newspapers in

Paris-Ninevite remains in the Louvre-Public buildings in Paris

contrasted with those in London.

CHAPTER II.

pp. 1-30

Orleans-Visit of the President of the Republic-Sensation created by

the handsome English lady-Ancient houses-Statue of La Pucelle

-Schiller's impersonation of the Maid-Rush to Bourges-Deserted

hostel-Cathedral-Jewelled windows-Antiquity of the town-

Jacques Cour's house-His strange fortunes-Convent of the

Sœurs Bleues-Interesting conference with a nun-Beauty of the

women at Bourges-Proceed to Nérondes-Travelling difficulties-

Journey to Moulins-Curious head-dress-St. Pourçain-Illness of

the Author's friend-Auvergne unvisited by cholera-Arrive at

Clermont
31-58

CHAPTER III.

Clermont-Its picturesque character-Built of lava-Cathedral-Notre

Dame du Port-Musée-Geological collections-Botanical garden

-Fountain of St. Alyre-Its curious properties-Mademoiselle

Rachel Her performance at the theatre-Excursion to the Puy

de Dome-Striking view from the summit-Geological features--

A

Pascal's experiments-Persecutions by the church of Rome-Val

de Fontanat-Gergovia-Cæsar's defeat-Val de Royat-Its great

beauty

pp. 59-73

CHAPTER IV.

Peter the Hermit-Crusade-Council of Clermont-Difficulty of

changing English gold-Interview with chief banker-Journey to

Mont Dore-Rochefort-Hotel competition-Value of a friend-

Satisfactory bargain-Stroll through the village-The baths-

Valley of Mont Dore-Public breakfast-Equestrian parties-

Excursion to the Pic de Sancy-Grand cascade-Steep ascent-

Riding hints-Cascade du Serpent-Summit of the Pic-Volcanic

action-Magnificent view-Crater lakes-Opera glasses: their

advantage over telescopes-The Puy Ferrand-Gorge de Chaude-

four-Descent-Ride in the pine forest-Table-d'hôte-Profusion

of dishes-English servant-Salon: evening amusements-Bourrée

dance.

74-97

+

CHAPTER V.

Early hours at Mont Dore-Bathing rules-New Bath guide-Priestess

of the waters-St. Laurent-Water drinkers-Somnambulist patient

-Beauties of the valley-Excursion to La Bourboule-Quereihl-

Plat à Barbe cascade-Lovely forest scenery-Government phy-

sician-Springs of La Bourboule-Their qualities-Chapel-Rocky

dwelling-Roche des Fées-Roche Vendeix-The Roi des Pillards

-Saw Mills-Peasants'-bouses-Auvergnat patois-Excursion to

St. Nectaire-The Tartarec--Extraordinary volcanic country--Dan-

gerous riding-St. Nectaire-Romanesque church-Feast of the

Virgin Magdelaine de St. Nectaire-Incrusting springs-Druidical

monument-Castle of Murol-Robert Chambe-Fine view from

the Donjon tower-The strongholds of ancient power 98-116

CHAPTER VI.

On angling-The lakes of Auvergne-Angling laws in France-Eng-
lish streams, and English fishing regulations-Trout in Auvergne
-Paucity of anglers-Curiosity respecting flies and fly-fishing-
Guide-book maker-Excursion to the Lac de Guéry-Net-fishing-
Interview with the fishermen-Their ignorance of fly-fishing-Row

on the lake-Success with the artificial fly-Visited by party from

the baths-Evening fishing-Ride home-A few hints to the

angler

pp. 117-129

CHAPTER VII.

The Roches Tuillière et Sanadoire-M. Lecocq's description of them-
French sentimentality-Excursion to the Gorge de Chaudefour-
Plateau valley of Chambon-The gorge-Extraordinary needles-
Precipices of the Puy Ferrand-Desire to scale them-Nature of the
pass over the Puy Ferrand-Start alone to cross it-Dense forest
-Awkward position-Steep ascent-Black precipices-Horrors of
solitude-Dangerous position-The 'Mauvais Pas'-Attain the Col
-Excessive fatigue-Desirableness of taking a guide - Roche
Cuzeau-Grandeur of the mountain top-Fossil bones-Downward
journey-Arrive at the baths
130-144

CHAPTER VIII.

Want of enterprise among the visitors at Mont Dore-An adventurous
lady-Madame B: her love of admiration-The small foot-
Vanity rebuked-M. Polignac-Climate of Mont Dore-The Post-
mistress-Hints to tourists-Emeute-The tyranny of power-
Return to Clermont-Petite route-Randanne-Count de Mont-
losier - His philanthropy - Arrive at Clermont - Fair Quack
doctors-Quack dentist-Journey to Le Puy-Wretched diligence
-Issoire-Brioude-Arrive at Le Puy.
145-161

CHAPTER IX.

-

-

Plutarch's definition of a friend-The luxury of a wash-Le Puy-Its

origin-The cathedral-Nôtre Dame de Le Puy-Relic of papyrus

-Numerous holy relics-Museum-Roman remains-Fossil bones

-Lace manufacture

- Market-place-

Picturesque head-dress

Rocher de St. Michel-Curious chapel-Geological theory of the
Valley of Le Puy-Castle of Polignac-Puit de l'Oracle-Mask of
Apollo-Cardinal Polignac-Les Orgues d'Espailly-Their powerful
magnetic properties-Temple of Diana-Table-d'hôte-Royalist
landlord-Travelling difficulties-Extortionate voituriers

162-178

-

The miseries of early rising-Leave Le Puy-Le Velay-Castle of

Lardeyrolles Rescue of a malefactor-Yssingeaux-Excellent

breakfast Price of meat in Auvergne- Goat-market-Value of

these animals-St. Bonnet le Froid-Rough auberge-Val de Vo-

conce-Annonay-Tricks of innkeepers-Strange dish-Ingenious

garçon-Murky pennons of manufacturers-First balloon ascent-

The Montgolfiers-Monument to them-Their bravery-Astound-

ing ignorance respecting conveyances-Leave Annonay-First view

of the Alps-The Rhone-Andance-Bad quarters-Descend the

river-Filthy steamer-Valence-Diligence competition-Cathedral

-Decorated house-Statue to Champonnier-Leave Valence—Val

d'Isère - Great luxuriance-Valley of Grésivaudan-Grenoble-

Hôtel des Trois Dauphins-Expediency of bargaining-Illness—

Unsophisticated waiter-His idea of tea-making—A foot-bath—

Swarms of dreams

pp. 179-201

CHAPTER XI.

Convalescence-Public gardens-The fortress

-

-

Sunday in Grenoble

-Fair-Hôtel de Ville-Visit the fortifications-The Mantis-La

Bastille Magnificent view Valley of the Drac - Triumph of

Bonaparte at Grenoble-His entry-Occupies the Hôtel des Trois

Dauphins-Gates of the city brought to him-His apartment in

great request-Libations of champagne.

202-211

CHAPTER XII.

Start for the Grande Chartreuse-Propitious weather-Travelling com-

panions-Odorous priest-Miraculous water-Story of the apparition

-Effect on the peasantry-Wine-drinking horses-St. Laurent-

Dinner-Ascend the mountain-Lovely scenery-The Guiers Mort

-Charcoal burners-Deep gorge-First view of the monastery-

Reception by a Carthusian-The interior-Chartreuse liqueur—

Conducted over the building-Maigre dinner-Destruction of album

-The head of the Carthusians refuses his autograph-History of

the convent-St. Bruno-His vision-Founds the Chartreuse-

Severity of the order-Rules for novices-Fame of the Chartreuse

-Their statutes respecting women-Anecdote of the Prince Doria

Pamphilia Midnight service - Impressive scene St. Bruno's

chapel-Breakfast-Bill-Return to Grenoble by Sapey 212-252