01

CAVE AND CLIFF DWELLINGS OF ARIZONA.

REV. ISAAC T. GOODNOW.

Nine o'clock in the morning found us at Flag Staff, 344 miles from Albuquerque. By previous arrangement, Major J. C. Minor, land agent of the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad, soon appeared with his fine span of mules and in a rapid drive of twelve miles southeasterly, through woods and dales, soon brought us to Walnut Cañon, the site of the wonderful Cliff dwellings. With hardly any warning we approached it from a nearly level plain. Emerging from the pine woods which surrounded it, we suddenly found ourselves upon the brink of a deep chasm, said by Major Minor to be 1,000 feet deep, and perhaps of the same average width, though quite irregular. The sides consist of ledges of gray limestone, forming on each side of the cañon a succession of huge steps to the bottom, leaving room for a small stream of water. These layers of rock are perhaps from five to fifteen feet thick. Half way down, some of these ledges are overhanging, from six to twelve feet; the base rock having been crumbled or worn away, possibly in part dug out, leaving a space between the upper and lower ledge from six to twelve feet wide and from five to eight feet high. Here we find the cliff dwellings. The roof, floor, and back side of each dwelling is formed by nature, and it only remains for the inhabitant to build the front side and the ends. This was done with stone plastered together with mud, leaving a low doorway to crawl through. In front of the line of dwellings, nearly at the outer edge of the ledge, is a narrow roadway, or foot path, by which each one could reach his residence. These dwellings in some instances we found in two lines, one above the other, and in one case I found a third, but very short line. I made a personal examination of some thirty-five dwellings, some larger and some smaller, according to the space between the rocks. Major Minor estimates the whole number at 400; extending up and down the cañon five miles. Reckoning five persons to a family, it would give a population of 2,000 inhabitants. Near by among the pines we found fragments of pottery, plain and ornamented. The burial place for their dead has not yet been found, though diligently sought for by Major Minor, who some two years since discovered the dwellings; who inhabited them is a matter of conjecture. They must have preceded the present race of Indians who know nothing about them. And the problem is as much of a mystery to them as to us. One thing I have omitted to notice; approaching from the north-the cañon extending east and west--we struck it exactly opposite a high peninsula connected with the north side, half way down the cañon, by a low isthmus. This peninsula forms a partial division between the eastern and western portions of the cañon that come under our immediate inspection, and must command a fine view of both. I was limited in time and did not ascend to the top, though I examined the dwellings below on

its west side. The Major says the top was occupied as a fort. Certainly no finer site could be chosen. Thus ended our first day's work. On the second day, it being decided that the mountain of the cave-dwellers would be too difficult for Mrs. G. to climb, Major Minor very kindly invited Mr. Thomas and his nearest neighbor, Esquire Hicks, to accompany us. Our road led along the railroad track east several miles and then to the northeast up a beautiful valley, interspersed with handsome pines. We passed on our right a detached volcanic mountain with crater still extant, 300 feet across its southern rim, partly worn away. To the left upon a slight knoll in the timber, was a fort evidently to command the southern approach to the caves.

At the distance of eight miles from Flagg Staff, and I guess twelve miles in a northeasterly direction from the cliff-dwellings, we found ourselves at the base of a steep hill 700 feet high. This forms the southern extremity of a range of volcanic foot hills of the San Francisco Mountains. Ascending the hill at an angle of 45°, its face being covered with powdered lava thrown from the caves near the summit, we found it pretty hard work, as each step upward was sure to give way downward! The crust of this mountain was originally in a molten state, which gradually consolidated into a tufaceous rock, tough and hard. To form a dwelling place, a circular hole was made into the ground, probably to the bottom of what would constitute the floor of the principal room, and it was then rounded out into an oval or circular form, from ten to twenty feet in diameter and from five and a half to seven feet in height, leaving a sufficient thickness overhead to make a strong roof. Out of the main room some two or three other rooms extended; serving probably as sleeping or store rooms. In some cases a room was excavated much lower than the large room, probably answering the purpose of a cellar. Generally the dwellings had no connection with each other, but in some cases they had. At the top and southern brow of the hill was a fort with a part of the walls standing, some three feet thick. It extended east and west across the hill some sixty feet, evidently designed to defend the approach from the northern ridge, which is about on the same level. As a general thing these caves were arranged in parallel and semi-circles, commencing at the top of the hill at the south end just below the fort, and extending down the sides of the mountain, the lower circles being the longest. The entrances to the caves in some cases were near the middle and must have been by ladders, in other cases near one side, and might have been by stairs. Around many of the openings were circular walls, evidently constructed to guard against accidents or as a defense against an enemy. In some of these caves, well away from day light, were beds evidently used by bears or wild animals. As part of the time my explorations were by myself and beyond the hearing of my companions, even with a shout, the query did arise, while poking around with a long stick in the low, dark cellars, what would happen should I find Old Bruin at home? What gave special emphasis to such an enquiry was the fact that my only weapon of defense was a stick. After such reflection my stay in dark passages was not prolonged!

One of the largest caves was near the top by the fort and is supposed to have

been occupied by the head chief. It is thought there was originally an underground connection between this and the fort. If so, the passage-way has been filled and obliterated. Evidently rude and unfriendly hands have left the marks of destruction upon these unique dwelling places. The mouths of many have been completely stopped with large stones, others partially so. The conquerois did their best to render this city of the cave-dwellers uninhabitable. Major Minor, the original discoverer, three years since, estimates the number of the caves at 200. A more beautiful prospect as seen from this town site cannot well be found. East, west, north and south, mountain ranges clad with snow 7,300 feet high, intervening valleys, and detached knobs are commingled in a way to produce one of the most delightful landscapes in the world!

By an article in the March number of the KANSAS CITY REVIEW, I see that another village of the cliff-dwellers has been discovered; it is also situated on a volcanic foot-hill of the San Francisco Range, and is some fifteen miles from the cliff-dwellings of Walnut Cañon. It numbers sixty-five dwellings. The entrance to each is by a perpendicular square hole or shaft, extending from the surface to the floor of the main room at one side. Foot holes cut at convenient distances on the sides of the shaft, served as a stairway. A groove fifteen inches wide and eighteen inches deep, extended from the floor of the main room up one side of the shaft to the surface of the hill. Ashes at the bottom of the groove and the blackened sides above marked the fire-place and the chimney of the dwelling. In the cave-dwellings which I visited, the fire was built on one side of the large room and the smoke was left to find its way out of the circular opening wherever it was. We found fine specimens of broken pottery, plain and ornamental, with the metatas, or hand corn-mills, of the inhabitants, but nothing which would give us any insight as to the tools used in excavating the dwellings. On the other hand, in the interesting article referred to, mention is made of stone mauls and axes used in doing the work, with ornamental pottery, corn-mills, bone awls and needles of delicate workmanship, shell and obsidian ornaments, and implements of wood, the uses of which are unknown. Mr. Stevenson found evidences that satisfied him that the inhabitants here held communication with the cliff-dwellers in Walnut Cañon, but does not say what they are.

The preservation of wooden implements in these underground rooms, where they have lain for centuries with other relics undisturbed, demonstrates with marked distinctness the wonderful dry and preservative qualities of the atmosphere of this strange country. People here ought to live one hundred and fifty years.

We were particularly fortunate in our guide. In his antiquarian researches he is indefatigable and remarkably successful. One year since, at the great bend of the Colorado, seventy miles north, he found the ruins of a great city, extending along the banks of the river for ten miles. It was originally buried in sand after the fashion of some Egyptian cities, and afterwards brought to light again by the winds blowing from a different direction. The dwellings are of stone, two stories high, plastered with mud, similar to the cliff-dwellings. Major

Minor was successful in his search for their cemetery and procured specimens of pottery, etc., with all the skeletons, or remains of skeletons, he wished.

Mr. A. M. Sanford called my attention to the existence of a detached mountain of almost pure salt, situated on the Colorado River, 160 miles north of Kingman; ninety-five per cent chloride of sodium, and five per cent alumina. It is transparent like glass and print can be read through a mass a foot thick! The supply is inexhaustible and eventually must become a source of great profit. Mrs. Goodnow has specimens of pottery from the cliff and cave-dwellings and the newly discovered city, which can be seen by any one having a curiosity. While those from the last-named city exhibits most skill, there is a striking resemblance that assures one that the original inhabitants of all these towns were of the same nationality. In their building operations they adapted themselves to the peculiar features of that portion of the country in which they lived. Arizona in truth is a wonderland! We know comparatively little about it. If the little exploration already made, brings to light so many mineralogical, geological and ethnological curiosities and marvels, what may we expect when fully examined and carefully studied by the scientific travelers of the world?—Manhattan (Kan.) Republic.

GEOLOGY.

RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST AROUND KANSAS CITY.-III.

WM. H. R. LYKINS.

One day I sat upon an eminence overlooking the vast fertile plains of Kansas. It was a lovely day in October. A mellow, golden haze filled the air, softening

the outlines of other hills which rose in the distance like the bold headlands of a sea coast. In the valley below were cozy farm houses embowered in the variegated foliage of fruit trees, and far away as the eye could reach lay yellow fields rich with the ripened fruit of the husbandman's labor. Herds and flocks pastured upon green meadows, and everywhere were men moving about like busy ants intent upon garnering their winter stores.

It was a perfect picture of the peace, prosperity and contentment of man. "It is, indeed, beautiful," said a voice echoing my thoughts, and turning I saw -or thought I saw,-standing beside me an aged man with a long, yellow beard leaning upon a ragged staff, and, like myself, contemplating the lovely landscape. "It is, indeed, beautiful," said he, "but it was not always thus. Listen!" he continued with sudden energy, "listen and I will tell you how it was. Ages upon ages ago I stood upon this spot. It was early morning and a hot mist obscured the view, but I could hear strange animal sounds, roaring, growling, snarl

ing, hissing, and startling screams as if all the menageries of the world had been turned loose in this place, and, as the mist cleared away I saw a wonderful scene. Before me lay a vast lake, or inland sea, stretching far away to the north, bordered by a rolling country of rich savannahs and tropical forests, watered by many streams and rivulets, all teeming with animal life. Over the broad valleys roamed herds of elephants, the strange-tusked and triple-horned Dinoceras, and many other equally wonderful forms. In the forests monstrous beasts, the Hadrosaurs, half-bird, half-serpent, moved sluggishly, feeding on the lofty tree-tops. On the waters of the lake great turtles lay like floating islets; on the rocky reefs sea-serpents an hundred feet in length reared their crested heads and hissed at each other in horrid combat. In the shallows waded gigantic toothed birds like Hesperornis, while overhead the leathery-winged Pterodactyls-veritable flying dragonsfought in mid-air over their prey, uttering those piercing screams I had heard. By the water-side is feeding a herd of the peaceful Oreodon-that curious compound of the hog, deer and camel,-when a pair of ferocious Drepanodon or saber-toothed tiger dashes upon them, rending and slaying in the very wantonness of their brutal strength and power. Man, if indeed he has yet appeared upon the earth, has fled far from these savage scenes and sought refuge in the recesses of the mountains whose cold, blue peaks glimmered faintly on the western horizon. It was the Age of Monsters.

"Another age had passed away when I returned to this place. How changed the scene! One vast sheet of ice covered all the land. Nor bird, nor beast was to be seen; what few animals had survived the cold had fled far southward. The sun hung low in the southern sky, giving forth a pale and sickly light destitute of heat. An awful silence brooded over the scene, broken only by an occasional moaning, creaking sound as if Mother Earth was groaning in agony underneath the great monster that lay upon her breast. It was the Age of Ice.

"After another age, again I returned. As at the first time it was early morn. ing and the sun had not risen, but through the gloom I could see advancing across the plain what appeared to be a monstrous serpent, roaring and hissing as it dragged its jointed length along, a single eye blazing in its forehead, shedding forth a baneful light. Surely, thought I, the Age of Monsters has returned again, but what monster is this, more terrible than any I have yet seen, which seems to devour the very earth before it! But as the sun rose and the light increased, I saw before me cultivated fields, happy homes, towns and cities, churches and school houses, and railway trains-even as you see it now. It was the Age of Man."

"Who are you?" I exclaimed in astonishment, turning to look at my companion again, but he had vanished, and I saw only in his place a bunch of the tall wild Sun-flowers, their yellow heads nodding gracefully to the soft southern wind which murmured musically through their leaves. I had been dreaming of the past, the present, -What will the Future Age be when this has passed away?