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LETTER XXVII.

Spa, May 20, 1793.

M

ANKIND have almost uniformly converted neceffity into a virtue, and what has been originally fubmitted to with reluctance has ufually terminated in choice. The fwampy foil of Holland, and the numerous nervous fevers which arofe from this circumstance, gave birth to thofe black patches upon each temple, which, by the superstition of antient times, were deemed fpecifics against nervous affections. These are now become a part of the Dutch drefs. In vain does "La petite Hollandoife" put on her broad orbicular bonnet, or coiff herself in uncouth luftre; till the large black patches are affixed, he can expect to make no conqueft. She may difplay her rounded fhoulder, and exhibit her flip-fhod heel; yet

will her artillery prove ineffectual without the aid of these proud ornaments.

Something fimilar has taken place in the numerous fprings and baths throughout Europe. Accident discovered their falubrious effects in remedying diforders, and reftoring fhattered conftitutions. Amusements are deemed neceffary to the diffipation of that languor, which ill health and medicinal regimen are apt to engender. The colours of pleasure are never difplayed in vain. The votaries of amufement foon crowded to that ftandard, where the banners of their goddess were exalted, and the empire thus became divided between the valetudinarian and the voluptuary.

This commerce is not without its advantages. Doubtlefs the affociated fupplicants of Efculapius had formed a ghaftly band, and might have paffed a miferable fejour in the fociety of each other. The pallid face, the leaden eye, the hollow cheek, and the emaciated frame required the introduction of fome

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fome more cheerful countenances; the commixture of those in whom the tide of blood is not chilled by age, nor tainted by malady, would enliven the fcenes thus deformed, and tend to accelerate the falutary effects of the springs. But mankind know no medium; at present the rivulets of health are swallowed up in the torrents of pleasure, the severity of regimen relaxes into the luxury of debauch, and the medicinal роtion is fupplanted by the Bacchanalian draught. Nor is this all-the harpies of fortune are disposed in every quarter of this Circean Elyfium. The young and the incautious are inveigled by the fpecious appearances of perfonal fplendor and titled confequence. Fortunes are thus committed, not to the mercy of a card, or the chance of a die, but to the artifice of those, whofe fole talent is imposture, and whose sole property is vefted in the funds of human weakness.

The anecdotes which are here circulated, and the estimates here formed upon the iffue

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of former seasons, render it more than probable, that the vast influx of company in the prefent, will exhibit various revolutions. of fortune in the gaming circle. Charmed, as I am, with the afpect of its hills, and the fame of its waters, I cannot but confider Spa as first amongst thofe places of general refort, which fwell the tide of human corruption. I cannot but believe, that more morals are debauched by the contagion of its vices, than nerves braced by the vigour of its air; and that more fortunes are ruined by the fascination of its amusements, than constitutions restored by the salubrity of its springs,

LETTER XXVIII.

Duffeldorf, May 25, 1791.

HE man who travels for higher purTHE

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poses than those of pleasure, will not make a long refidence at Spa. We left it after having bestowed a whole week upon contemplating its deferted fprings, and ftrolling amongst its filent promenades. I glanced on the Sunday over the tablets which decorate the church; and found, that fuperftition has once enjoyed as great dominion here as pleafure now does. I could not forbear remarking one in particular, which held out a variety of indulgences to the confrères of the holy facrament. One of thofe grants purported, that if any one of this fraternity vifit the fick with the holy facrament; or, if indifpofed, write "Pater "Nofter," and " Ave Maria," five times, he fhall be entitled to indulgence for fixty days

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