LETTER XLII.

Geneva, July 15, 1791.

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RECEIVED yesterday a very high degree of entertainment, and am anxious to report to you the journals of my proceedings., It was, as you will recollect, the commemoration of the French revolution; and, as agreeable to a decree of the National Affembly, the day was to be celebrated throughout France. Ferney, the ancient refidence of Voltaire, was among the number of those towns which announced an intention of obferving this anniverfary. I had for fome time part determined upon making a visit to Ferney, in order to view the mansion once occupied by this illuftrious man; and my curiofity to witnefs this extraordinary feftival, decided me to put my plan in execution on this day. I knew not the state of the place; nor could forefee, whether my perfon might be fafe among a number of

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men,

men, affembled to celebrate the orgies of Liberty and Bacchus. I was unwilling therefore to be a folitary gueft, and an order of council had been iffued forbidding any fubject of the Republic to be found at Ferney during this feftival. I fhortly however picked up an Englishman, of whom I had fome flight knowledge; and who, though profoundly ignorant of the language, had as much curiofity as was neceffary for my purpose. We placed feverally a cockade in our hats, and drove to Ferney.

The village wore a very gay appearance: all the inhabitants, and many from the environs, were-parading in numerous parties, dreffed in all the trappings of their Sunday wardrobes. Having found with some difficulty a ftand for our whiskey and horse, we repaired to a part of the town, which from the crowds affembled there feemed to

be the place of rendezvous. We passed through many ranks of fpectators, and came to a large area, in the centre of which was elevated

elevated the national ftandard, and the colours infcribed with-" Vivre libre, ou mou"rir," were ftreaming in the air. This fpace was not inclosed with any fixed barrier, but preferved for the company by the National guard; who acted alternately as centinels, and kept the line unbroken by the spectators. Within this area were two long tables, very nearly filled with company, and two smaller ones, occupied by felect parties. At the head of the upper table fat the Commandant; and befide him, the lady prefident. The rest were for the most part officers of the guard, or, what is the same thing, volunteers; for the duties and the honours are taken in rotation. I underftood from fome of the attendants, that we should find no difficulty in being admitted to the table. I therefore applied to a very genteel man, who was doing the duty of centinel, for permiffion to fit at the table. He affured me, it would do them fingular honour. We therefore took our feats, and

were ferved with fome refreshment upon

paying our quota.

The attention of the company was foon drawn upon us; and those nearest us at the table were folicitous to recommend themfelves by drinking our healths. A band of military mufic regaled us during dinner. This ended, proclamation was made for filence; and the Commandant delivered an address upon the important advantages of the revolution. After commenting with fome warmth upon thele, and recommending as effential to their continuance, order and obedience to the conftituted authori ties,--he toafted the magiftrates, the national affembly, &c. Every toaft was drank with loud acclamations, and accompanied with the mufic of fome popular air. When the Commandant had got through the toafts of office, he demanded filence, and begged leave to drink, "A la fantée des Anglois, nos meilleurs amis." This was received with the loudest burfts of applaufe. It was

echoed

echoed from every quarter, and the mufic ftruck up ça ira;” which was fung by the greater part of the company. The nature of this toaft turned the eyes of all upon us; and as my companion was not linguist enough to return the compliment, I mounted the bench. "Silence le plus profonde," was called for on all hands; and I proclaimed aloud, “A la fantée des François, "fucces à la nouvelle conftitution, fondée ચંદ "fur des principes eternelles, comme na"turelles." This had its effect: mufic, fhouts, and fongs, expreffed their sense of gratitude we were immediately handed by an officer to the upper table,-presented to the Lady Prefident, who invited us to the ball. Ten thousand courtefies were now fhewn us. They threw to the ground the burgundy we had purchased, and gave us in exchange fome of the first quality. They fpoke in terms of the warmest regard of the English nation, whofe example they pretended only to follow; and commended that generosity,

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