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it. If it were attempted by any one, he
would find himself flying across Tucker-
man's Ravine very speedily. But there
are now ventilators on the depot building,
where the government party is stationed.
Up one of these climbs Sergeant Hurn,
pokes his anemometer out, and the wind
does the rest. The government was
mystified for a while in regard to this
method of measuring the wind when it
was blowing at such a rate, and inquired
how it was done. The plan is ingenious,
and much more pleasant than exposing
one's self to the wind, as was the custom
last
year.

But to make a long story short, Mr. Kilburn is now here, and has agreed to ascend Mount Willard with us, on snowshoes, after dinner.

Did you ever try to walk on snowshoes over snow-drifts twenty feet deep, and up a steep mountain? No? Well then, tie a large broom to each foot with the handles backwards, or if you prefer a stiff cocoa door mat to a broom, try it. Now walk out into the snow, then, as you lift one foot, catch the front of one broom fast to the handle of the other, and fall down, hands first. Could you ever extricate yourself from such a predicament? Not well; but you would feel as one feels when he experiences his first fall with snow-shoes on. However, you will soon become accustomed to them, and it is astonishing what a help they become. One sinks with them but two or three inches into the softest snow.

like rain now, and coats and vests may be thrown open, and gloves discarded. Through vast forests of evergreens, heavily laden with frozen snow, we clamber up, up, UP. When stopping, the pervading silence can be heard almost, as darkness can be felt, for not a sound falls upon our ears except the throbbing of our own hearts. See how the snow hangs in thick masses upon the bowed-down trees. These must be the winter wardrobes of the fairies and the nymphs. Nearer the summit the snow is thinner upon the trees, and gives greater detail to their shapes, each tiny limb coming in for its share of the burden and the splendor. Here the fairies get their laces, and their haberdasheries, and their embroideries, and their fine jewelry. The sight is one not to be described, but Mr. Kilburn's busy camera has been poked in here and there among them. He has secured some grand stereoscopic views of these trees in their winter garments.

After one hour and twenty minutes of hot work the summit is gained. We receive a very cool reception from Mr. B. O. Reas, who reigns up here, but despite his howlings, we can remain a few minutes, snap some of his ice to quench our thirst, then drink in the great view before us, which seems like the hold of a great vessel. Forty miles away we see the sharp sides of Mount Chocorua, white as driven snow, looking like a great pyramid against a background of most beautiful ultramarine blue. Down the valNow we all put them on, and off we go. ley is the Saco, fighting its winding way Carefully at first. Put your mind to the through the snow, and the great ravine work; assume an easy, duck-like swagger, lies snow-covered and slumbering at our and you will get along. We will take feet. The "silver cascade" and all its tiny the short cut across the fields to the companions are fettered by the strong base of the mountain, for the fences are grip of the ice king, and their noisy all under the snow, and we need not gurglings are hushed. The imprecations regard them. Now the work begins. of our frigid host compel us to leave, for Throw open your outer garments, for we fear the result of disobedience, though you will soon be warm with the exertion. we know that his threats are all blow. Up, up we clamber, step by step. The We can make the descent in half the time ascent is steep, and therefore tiresome. occupied in ascending, and with much So we will not hasten, but with slow, less labor. swaggering, swinging stride, step along, feel a desire for a snowany of you stopping often to take breath, for the air shoe race, here is your opportunity. is growing more and more rare as we advance. The perspiration rolls down

If

But haven't we tired the reader with the record of our delightful week in the

White Hills when they are white? They must come and see, and believe what pleasure we have had together, when down through the Crawford Notch we travelled, shying an icicle at the "Elephant's Head," kissing our hands to the "Old Maid," and shouting at the answering echoes towards the Willey House. How over the fences we strode with our snowshoes, and over great rocks that last summer caused us some effort to get up to the top of them.

We need not detail the grand views we have just had from this Notch. Coming back we met Mount Willard face to face, the congealed cascades hanging down his snowy front, and his frowning, wrinkled, and frost-bitten cliffs, which we mastered a few hours before, seem ready to cast themselves upon us.

All night at the Crawford House Cottage, and in the morning away for a fish. O! how the pickerel and the trout do swarm in these mountain streams! Cut. twenty hofes in the ice; over each suspend a little bough, to which fasten a little red flag, and a hook and line. Now march back and forth, warming yourself betimes by the great fire built for you, and watch. Down bends the little bough, making the little flag to curtsey. Run! pull! quick! Ah! what a fine fellow you have floundering in the air! And that is fishing. You do not suffer from cold, for your twenty lines keep you both busy and warm.

But this is only one of the rare sports enjoyed by those who visit these white hills in winter. We must return to Littleton, for the storm-clouds are gathering.

FAREWELL.

BY MARY R. BOSWORTH.

WE

E have been wandering in the valleys fair,
The valleys green, where sweet the breezes blow,
Where rarest perfumes scent the Summer air,
And where the blue forget-me-nots do grow.

My hand still clasped in yours, I've wandered on,
Forgetting all, save that I walked with you;
Forgetting, 'till the Summer day is gone,

And up the valley comes the mist so blue,—

The cold, cold evening mist that chills the heart,
That poisons the sweet air, and drowns the light;
And now we walk with hands unclasped-apart,
And up the valley come the clouds of night.

Dark up the valley sweep the clouds of night,
And from our vale the beauty all has gone;
But high above, the mountain peaks are bright,—
The peaks that still the golden sun shines on.

O! sweet the sunlight sleeps on that far height,
And strains of heavenly music rise and swell;
And hands are beckoning from the vision bright,
My heart is with them:-friend, a long Farewell!

SKETCHES IN ROME.

BY MRS. C. II. B. LAING.

THE CRYPT OF ST. PETER'S.

HERE is but one day in the three

entranced by the glowing creations of and the Loggie of the Vatican, or have walked through the sculpture galleries of that same mussive pile by torch-light. under the guidance and instruction of the

woman is allowed to penetrate into the sacred precincts of St. Peter's Crypt. This day falls on the Sunday next after the Festa of St. Peter and St. Paul, (29th June,) and if the feminine forest-eminent archæologist, Shakspeare Wood, eiri in Rome possess their full inheritance granted from mother Eve, this day will find them flocking to St. Peter's, and descending into the subterranean mysteries of the ancient basilica.

It is unfortunate, however, for those who might appreciate such a privilege, that the opportunity offers itself when Rome is comparatively deserted, not only by travellers, or foresteiri, but by the foreign residents, artists, et cetera. These last close their pleasant dwellings about the middle of June, and flit away among the hills, renting charming villas at Albano or Frescati, perhaps amid the sylvan glades of Tivoli, with the music of the Cascatelles lulling them to forgetfulness of the busy world beyond those olivecrowned heights-or, with a wider flight from the Seven Hills, settle down to a life of peaceful study within the castellated walls of Perugia's ancient city.

and then, turning from ancient art, have day after day glanced in at the studios of Buchanan Read, of Hazeltine, Inness, Freeman, Healy, and Inman, and the sculpture rooms of Ives, Harnisch, Rogers, Miss Hosmer, Reinhart, and Simmons, and other noted studios-who have witnessed the grand ceremonies of Easter-day, have beheld the venerable Pope, and perchance received his blessing-who have felt themselves, as it were, transported from all earthly scenes by the silver trumpet's sweet strains, blending with angelic harmony from the lofty dome, until it seemed as if each note found entrance to the hearts of the kneeling worshippers in the grand courts below; and who, as the imposing finale of Easter-day, have witnessed the miraculous illumination of St. Peter's "in the twinkling of an eye," and beheld from the shores of the Tiber that mighty The strangers who this year (the dome swinging in the darkness, a globe Ecumenical year) came to Rome, ming of light descending, as it were, from the ling all nationalities in the interest awak- skies, with heaven's own golden lamps;ened by the gathering of bishops and these strangers, tired at length of Rome's ecclesiastics, who, at the summons of inexhaustible treasures, and having "used Pius IX., have come hither from far dis-up all available excitements, find, like tant shores to join the Ecumenical Coun- Sir Charles Coldstream in the play. cil, after viewing the mighty conclave "there's nothing in it!" So they turn the assembled beneath the Dome of St. Pe- key upon their little hoards of Roman ter's after having penetrated the halls of pearls and Roman sashes, their rosaries, the Cæsars-ascended the Coliseum by blessed by the old Pope himself-their moonlight-toiled through the baths of bits of antiquated marbles, and mosaics. Caracalla and the catacombs of St. Ca- and whirl away from the hotels by the lixtus; after visiting again and again the first of May, and betake them to other picture galleries of the Doria, the Bor- scenes and "pastures new." And thus ghese, and the Corsini palaces, and stood it happens, when the third of July brings

with it the permission to the Crypt or Grottos below the present basilica of St. Peter's, very few ladies are remaining in Rome to avail themselves of this courtesy. A few words for

"THE FESTA OF ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL."

With the first faint glimmer of dawn, the thunder of repeated cannon from the castle St. Angelo, reverberates over the Seven Hills; then, from every belltower and belfry upon their summits, ring cut the sweet toned bells. Soon the clattering hoofs of the Papal cavalry are heard, and as the horses advance, the gaily bedizened carriages of the cardinals and bishops, bearing their scarlet and purple-robed occupants, mingle in with the crowd on foot, or in less pretentious vehicles, and swing over the Ponte St. Angelo, and flash in and out the Vatican colonnades, all wending their way to St. Peter's, to offer their t.ibute of reverence to the Holy Apostle.

And he is ready to receive them as early as they please to call. Arrayed in gorgeous vestments, he sits in state upon his bronze throne, under a canopy of crimson and gold. Before him blaze the conseerated candles in the golden candlesticks. Upon his finger the "Apostle" wears the episcopal ring glittering with jewels; and with a magnificant tiara studded with precious stones upon his brow, why, the bronze St. Peter looks " "every inch a Pope! The toe of his right foot seems newly burnished this day-though never dim save by the tears of penitents-to receive the kisses of the holy conclave who will soon bend before him.

The ceremonies which St. Peter in heaven claims this day from his faithful adherents upon earth, differ but slightly from the usual grand pageants, which, from Advent Sunday to Whitsuntide, draw within the walls of this stupendous basilica thousands upon thousands of her children, and attract to Rome those crowds of strangers, who, during the winter months are met with everywhere, flashing their red-bound Murrays in the dark aisles of old churches, amid the crumbling ruins of the Palatine, or line en régle the galleries of the Vatican.

Crimson velvet hangings, with the arms of the old popes wrought in gold, enwrap the huge marble columns and pilasters of the nave and aisles; the Vatican guards, in glittering file, stretch from the grand, bronze gates, in double ranks, up to the confessional, where the light from those golden lamps is never darkened. Over the polished pavement advance the Swiss Guards; their ranks divide, and like a ribbon of gay colors, they now wind themselves closely about the confessional, or take their stand here and there within the Apsis soon to be filled with the mitred host. Afar down the nave, slowly winding from the “Chapel of the Holy Sacrament," the grand procession is seen approaching. Crucifix and candle scintillate with the flashing of cross and crosier, and the deep-toned chanting of many voices in the salutation "Tv. es. Petrvs," herald the advance of that gorgeous retinue of cardinals and bishops which precedes Pius IX. Him you now see, but not on foot. Sitting in the pontifical chair, under a canopy of white satin fringed with gold, the Pope is borne up by twelve palfroniers in crimson costume; upon each side of the venerable pontiff sway the immense fans of ostrich and peacock feathers, while before him swing the golden censers, scattering their sickening odors around.

Hark to that sudden shiver and clank of arms! The military have simultaneously sunk to the pavement at the approach of the Holy Father; so, too, every faithful soul within that vast edifice: and looking benignly down upon the kneeling multitude, the Pope signs with his three fingers the mystical blessing which his lips do not pronounce. And then, as the procession defiles before the bronze Pope St. Peter, each bishop lifts his mitre, each cardinal his cardinal's hat, and bending low, impress a kiss upon the toe of the statue, a ceremony soon reenacted upon the toe of the living Pope, whose red slipper, bearing the symbol of the cross, is reverently saluted. And by-and-by the doors of the confessional beneath the mighty dome are swung wide, and the Pope, with his saintly cortege, descends into that mag

nificent vault which encloses the relics of the Apostle Peter. The richly wrought gates are open, the jewelled casket which contains the hallowed remains is seen within. Pius IX, kneels low before it, by the side of that kneeling statue of Pius VI., Canova's superb work. The living Pope is robed in vestments of pure white, and as he kneels for a mement motionless, with his white head uncovered, he might almost be mistaken for another marble image of papal deference to the Apostle of Galilee. Rising, the Pope receives a golden chalice and waves it before and within the shrine, until the odorous incense rises even above the high altar, and then returning to the Apsis, other ceremonies are gone through with, concluding with the magnificent Te Deum, in which the sweet, bird-like notes of Mustapha soar clear above all other voices.

This closes the Festa of St. Peter and St. Paul, and upon the Sunday following the permit is granted to visit

THE CRYPT OF ST. PETER'S.

The morning was bright and beautiful, and a walk across the Pincian, and out the gates of the Porta del Popolo to the English chapel, (our own American chapel being closed for the season,) was rendered charming by the cool winds sweeping down from the mountains. A fine sermon from the Rev. Mr. Wayne, and then we drove over to St. Peter's.

Our errand made known, a door under the statue of St. Veronica was opened for us, and we descended into the lower basilica, where, as if to confirm our position, we read in large black letters, chiselled upon a slab of white marble, the threatened anathema of excommunication to every woman who should enter those precincts save only on this day of the year! Gentlemen were not admitted; their right to the crypt was already appropriated upon the afternoon of St. Peter's day and the day following. But although unaccompanied, we were not lost sight of by the lordly sex, for whereever through an open grating the light from the church above stole down upon us, there came with it the flash of glit

tering mail, the helmet and cuirass of the Swiss Guards, who strictly watched our movements, as if there might be danger of our bearing off some sculptured sarcophagus, bones and all!

A sacred spot is this whereon stands the grand St. Peter's of to-day! As early as the year 90, St. Anacletus, ordained, it is said, by the holy St. Peter himself, as a bishop of Rome, founded a small oratory within this very crypt, to consecrate the spot where the remains of the apostle were deposited after his crucifixion upon the Janiculum Hill, and also to sanctify the ground where, in the days of the Emperor Nero, so many of the early Christian martyrs were tortured and put to death.

Two centuries later, in the year 324, the scales of superstition falling from the eyes of the emperor Constantine the Great, as from those of Saul of Tarsus, he, now repenting of his persecution of the Christians, resolved to build a church upon this spot in token of his remorse.

Throwing off his coat, and seizing a pick-axe, as the annals of the church record, he was the first to break the soil, and bore upon his own imperial shoulders twelve baskets filled with earth, and emptied them where the corner-stone of the Vatican basilica was to be laid. And thus, strangely enough, the tomb of the humble fisherman of Galilee was consecrated by the first Christian Emperor!

This church, founded by Constantine, endured for eleven centuries and a half-not without many repairs and additions, as we may rightly inferand then, when utter ruin menaced its old walls, which had witnessed so many scenes of anarchy and bloodshed, it was determined to pull down the old basilica and replace it by one of greater magnificence. Care was taken, however, by the sovereign Pontiff, under whose reign the work was begun, [for three hundred and fifty years were consumed in the building of the present St. Peter's, and under the reign of forty-three different Popes,] that as much as was possible of the old basilica should be preserved. The old pavement was, therefore, left entire, and a new one, supported by heavy arches and pilasters,

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