SPAIN.

CHAPTER 1.

PRELIMINARY REMARKS.

A RESULT, as well as a sign of civilization, is the spirit, which has strengthened with the source of its being, to seek by personal observation, knowledge of other lands; their physical features, and the language and institutions, the moral, social, intellectual and political condi⚫tion, of their peoples. Whatever the incentive which is nearest of cause to the movement; whether pastime, health, or speculative enterprise; the diffusion, or the acquisition of knowledge; the gratification of the sense, or the increase of the means of material comfort; the power which underlies all, and puts in motion the immediate spring of action, is that exalted appreciation of duty-the essence of true civilization-which contemplates human good in some form, as the aim and end of being.

Happily the means of intercourse between distant countries, and the facilities of travel in each, are the offspring of the same creative spirit which is the parent of lofty purpose and ennobling enterprise. Thus the developments of science and the mechanic arts, have kept pace with the aspirations and wants of general

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progress; and enable many to gratify longings for travel, who, otherwise would be compelled to forego it. An Englishman can now make the tour of the Continent with less inconvenience than a century since he could have made that of a neighbouring county. And an American can steam from hemisphere to hemisphere for British broad cloth, or a case of cutlery, in less time than it took Cæsar to reach Rome from the Rubicon, when his scheme of empire was threatened by domestic enemies.

Under such circumstances of improved inter-communication, the descendants of the Anglo-Saxon are found abroad measured by multitudes, in France, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Holland; even Austria, Denmark and Sweden are familiar with their too often ostentatious generosity; while other parts of Europe, and Egypt and Syria also, willingly welcome their occasional coming, characterised as it is by the vanity of a lavish, and it might be said, silly boastfulness of commiseration for the "beggarly representatives of the rest of mankind."

But there is one spot on the Continent the general pleasure traveller commonly shuns, and from a mistaken belief of the danger, discomfort, delays, and exorbitant charges, incident to the journey. That spot, the HispanoPortuguese Peninsula, in its history, antiquities, art, scenery, and mineral resources, as well as in its claims. upon philanthropic enterprise, is well calculated to awaken interest with English and American travellers; and it is to be regretted that the prevalence of an erroneous impression, should hinder the reciprocal pleasure and profit, which might come of that social tide which gives while it bears away blessings of being.

It is not intended to say that the Peninsula is attrac

tive in all its aspects of physical and moral life. But, that in view of what is seen elsewhere, Spain-of which it is proposed especially to speak-is not everywhere so uninteresting to the eye; not so deeply debased in social, moral, and political being; so incapable of reformatory purpose and effort; so regardless of law and order; so indifferent to the good opinion of mankind; as to be exceptionally lost to all hope of redemption, in Church, State, and Estate, as some superficial, hasty, and prejudiced observers would have us think.

Were it profitable to indulge in invidious comparisons, the boastful metropolitan centres of European and American civilization might be claimed as exemplifying in a higher degree than Spain, the dangers to life and property, by murder and robbery; and the greater extortions and impositions practised therein upon travellers, by public agents with whom they necessarily come in contact. Discomfort, annoyance, and vexatious delays, are occasional incidents of travel everywhere; and it is unreasonable to look to Spain for the exception to the rule. He who cheerfully regards them as the price paid for the pleasure and profit of his journey, will act wisely and well. Habitual ill-humour and grumbling, neither benefit one's-self, nor give happiness to others with whom our lot may be cast.

The mild winter-climate of the south of Spain, by reason of its adaptation to many requirements of invalids who chafe under confinement, is inviting to Britons and Americans. Pre-eminently active, energetic, laborious, and adventurous, and inhabiting climates of severity and sudden changes, they are especially the victims of exhaustive effort and atmospheric vicissitudes. In the

life of either, bodily rest and mental tranquillity are rarely known. Exertion and tumult make the rule of life; repose and serenity the exception; until a longing for that quiet which wrecked health makes necessary, forces the sufferer from the so-called comforts of home -which he never took time to think of before-to seek a further lease of life in another land, and among a strange people. Even if he should not find the boon of perfect health, he may mitigate pain, and stay the progress of disease; and learn too that lesson of life before unheeded, that honours and wealth, however desirable when wisely sought and secured, are not the surest passports to happiness in the near, or the far off future.

And let it be borne in mind, that he who goes abroad in the too usual exactious spirit of the valetudinarian, and expecting that every one encountered by the wayside, should, and will make sacrifices for his comfort, will be disappointed. The fashionable highways of travel are full of the worn-out, wan, and wasted; sick, and weary of life—at least who try to make themselves and others believe so. What is to be done when all alike claim special privileges? Experience teaches that the good of the real invalid, as well as the happiness of the mere pleasure-seeker, is best assured by a compromising and contented spirit. We cannot reasonably expect to reconcile the diverse usages of promiscuous society, and neutralize its inherent tendencies to selfishness, save by kindly inculcations of patience and charity. And one may largely contribute to his own comfort and gratification, by consulting those of others. The observing traveller cannot have failed to notice, how strong the disposition is on the part of fellows, to repay and