nave. It is not designed to enter into a discussion of the introduction of this hideous feature in Spanish church architecture-one that has greatly puzzled ecclesiologists. Whether it was from the want of room in the tribune, or as sometimes called, apsidal end of the church, for the accommodation of the canons, that this divorce of most of the clergy from the altar they were appointed to serve became necessary, and a promiscuous crowd of the profane vulgar was allowed to intervene between them and the Holy of Holies; or whatever led to the result, it is regretted by all lovers of the sublime and beautiful in art, that a screen-work, however bedizened with gilding, or sculptured with traditional imagery, should be lifted midway a mass of affluent details, to shut out a perspective, fading faintly in the distance into commingled richness of man's munificent offering to God-the material expression of the soul's devotion.

A cloister attached to the cathedral, irregularly foursided, is surrounded by columns with elaborately carved capitals, supporting round arches of a strength necessary for the thick superposed cloister wall on which rests a stone roofing. A door at one angle of the enclosure gives outlet to a steep path, the ascent of which affords a commanding view of the town and surroundings. If the tourist should decline to climb. the belfry of the cathedral for that purpose, he may get a coup d'œil here. In the view is an old Romanesque church with a truncated octagonal belfry, apparently built across the city wall, and seeming to embrace one of its towers. This, however, is due to the raising of the semi-circular tribune or apse of the church, so

as to make of its upper part a military defence against hostile assaults-not uncommon from the exposed frontier position of Gerona. This, the Benedictine church of San Pedro is believed to have existed in the tenth century. The rude external work of stone and dark volcanic scoriæ gives evidence of early date, and the absence of windows in the side walls of the aisles, and the port-hole splaying of those few of the clerestory above, aid in giving the building a look of severity suitable to ages when the surplice was sometimes doffed for the corselet. A profusely sculptured portal, and a fine rose-window at the west end, relieve somewhat the tone of sternness of the exterior-while the inside is characterised by unpretending simplicity.

There is nothing about the church of San Feliu worth examination, beyond a glance at its bold and unique octagonal tower, surmounted by a spire of corresponding faces; which, before its partial destruction, is said to have been an example of singular grace. The guardianship of San Narciso, the tutelar of the church, from whose body issued a "plague of flies" sufficient to destroy tens of thousands of sacrilegious Frenchmen and their horses, seems now scarcely called for, as, especially in the heated term, Gerona has a pestilential endemic, of all the kinds clerically testified to in the olden days of miracles— "white, tri-coloured, and green and blue with a red stripe down their backs," sufficient to protect the church and community, clericals and commoners, from a long continued intrusion of outside barbarians. Hence, having put up at the most interesting of Gerona houses -the "Fonda de Estrella "-one is not likely to stroll through this district of towns in search of mediaval

windows and doorways, whatever tales may be told of their claims to palatial importance. But, providing himself with a railway time-table-Indicador Oficial de los Caminos de Hierro-if one can be found, always a desirable companion where hotel employés are unable or unwilling to give information about the running of trains, he may start for Barcelona relying upon his French gold to carry him there at a fair rate of exchange at the station; without taking the greater risk of having counterfeit money put upon him should he attempt to convert French funds into Spanish on the street. Dishonesty and sharp-practice prevail in frontier towns on both sides of the line. It will be a safe rule everywhere in Spain, to rely in money matters only upon English or Anglo-American bankers, or their accredited agents. The amount of counterfeit Spanish gold in circulation is large, and an expert alone can detect it.

The run by rail to Barcelona varies from three to four hours, by coast line; affording pleasing water glimpses, with billows seeking to bathe the wheels of the railway carriages; while castled ruins occasionally look from adjacent heights to remind one of border feuds and forays in olden times. Cabs and omnibuses will be found in waiting at the station. And the Fonda de las Cuatro Naciones, and the Fonda del Oriente,-both on the Rambla-will give a sufficiently fashionable reception, at the usual continental prices; while the Fonda Peninsulares, in the Calle San Pablo, will be found quite as comfortable, at less cost.

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CHAPTER IV.

BARCELONA. VIEW FROM MONTJUICH. RAMBLA AND PASEO DE GRACIA. PLAZAS. CAMPO SANTO. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. PALACES. MARKETS. CLIMATE. CHURCHES. ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS. FRAILTY. LOTTERIES. GAMBLING. POPULAR AMUSEMENTS. DRESS. SOURCES OF INFORMATION. MILITARY GOVERNMENT. THEATRES. PASSION PLAYS.

COMING to Barcelona by sea certainly gives the impression most favourable to its claims to beauty and advantage of position. But the panorama is rather dearly paid for by a day and night's experience of tumbling and tossing from Marseilles with nameless attendant miseries; especially if a French "Mistral" be out on a frolic, upsetting people's Lombardy poplars, patience, and sense of propriety generally. Next to the sailor's favourite point of view of this Spanish shore line, gradually unfolding its fringe of spray, its shipping, and its far-spreading factories and warehouses, is that obtained from the seven. hundred and fifty-two feet summit of Montjuich, the ancient Mount of Jove. The picture from this near-athand height, of a busy and well-sheltered harbour, widespread and compactly built city, encircling hills covered with villages and villas, and thickly spotted manufactories giving a Manchester feature to this proudest and most prosperous of Spanish sea-ports, should be early seen

by him who meditates but a short stay in Barcelona. And even he who proposes to tarry longer, may well look at it early for general guidance to particular localities. The Rambla, a wide, shady promenade, with paved carriage and footway on each side, runs northward from the harbour; and at the distance of nearly a mile terminates in the still wider Paseo de Gracia-running a little west of north-a more modern and rarely equalled walk and drive of two miles to Gracia, a pretty village on the sloping foot of the hill San Pedro Martir; where are found amusements and refreshments for excursionists.

The Rambla is the usual resort of a promiscuous crowd on high-days and holidays, and in the evenings of every day; while the Paseo is more select, and when the weather is fine, is graced every afternoon-early or late according to the temperature-by the fashion and beauty of Barcelona, with a sprinkling of mendicants varying the picture.

These great thoroughfares, united, divide the city into two unequal parts, the larger situated on the east side and embracing the chief objects of interest-viz.the Plaza Real, Plaza de la Constitucion, Plaza del Palacio, Plaza de San Pedro, the Jardin del General, the Campo Santo-with some finely sculptured monuments-where the ashes of friends are sometimes entombed with no "service for the dead," said or done, save the occasional sigh of a casual bystander, and the more frequent dropping on the descending coffin, of symbolical ashes, from the cigarettes of attendant "mourners!" On this side of the dividing line of the city are also the Palacio del Capitan-General, the Casa Lonja (Exchange), the Casa