phetic and instructive types which fasten so strongly the attention of the Ammergau audience, and place before them in beautifully significant pictures from the Old Scriptures the prefiguring of events that follow, and which form the action of the New Testament, into which the Bavarian Highlanders breathe the breath of life. No advantages of stage scenery and mechanical appliances in the Spanish performance, are even a slight equivalent for the want of this fascinating feature of the Ammergau drama. And then as to the musical elucidations, applications, and appeals, of the chorus— the harp which lifts its harmony on the air, and moves the heart to responsive symphony; the mingling of sacred sentiment with classic charm, to win back to peace and love the wanderer from good; oh! how the want of it is felt by one, who has in the secluded valley of Ammergau owned its sweet influence, amid the works of Nature's God, and among "the people of His pasture!"

51

RAILROAD

CHAPTER V.

FROM BARCELONA TO LERIDA. SPANISH MONEY. HAND-BOOKS. MONSERRAT, ST. LUKE. OUR LADY. MARIOLATRY. ROAD-SIDE SCENERY. MANRESA. COLLEGIATE CHURCH. CAVE OF IGNATIUS LOYOLA. CERVERA. LERIDA AND ITS CATHEDRAL.

ALTHOUGH in the early Spring and late Autumn, the tourist is advised to go by railway southward from Barcelona, to meet the genial breezes of the former, or hasten from the cold blasts of the latter, yet it will be well to consider the question ere starting, whether or not he will make a flying trip westward across the northern provinces of Catalonia and Aragon. And if he should be unwilling to forego the special attractions of Lerida and Zaragoza, and wayside glimpses, then he must decide if he will take the run now, or leave it for a part of his finish-up, after having made the circuit of the south, and reached Madrid. The Pyrenean belt of Provinces is the coldest, and this fact should be borne in mind in coming to a decision. Having made the run from Barcelona, what we have to say will be more appropriate here.

Spanish gold and silver money should be drawn from a reliable banker, and scrutinized, particularly the gold, before leaving the office. Counterfeiting is an irrepressible business in Spain. And the rule of Errors

excepted" having no application after you have left the bank, it may be expected that frauds purposely perpetrated-and such may be at the hands of expert subordinates—are altogether without remedy. No amount of assertion, or circumstantial proof, will obtain correction of the grievance. The transaction has been irrevocably closed. And as to getting redress by law, consider before seeking it, besides unparalleled judicial delays, that Spanish Courts are not apt to see right in a foreigner and wrong in a native. Your protection is in prevention. Foreigners are heavily discounted in all things; although without their money and enterprise, bankruptcy would have been the fate of this country long ago.

A good Hand-book for Spain, if it could be found, would be useful. Those in use cannot be implicitly relied on. Railway and hotel employés, time-tables and "mine hosts," undergo frequent changes; and these make sad havoc with Hand-book pledges and programmes of a few years before. In matters of opinion too, one must not look for infallibility, however dogmatically put forth. Policy and prejudice warp the best intentions. But if a Hand-book be taken, let it be with hearty goodwill as you do a wife, "for better or for worse!" The chances are you will not be more frequently disappointed.

Of the two daily trains for the west, that of the morning has the advantage for sight of roadside scenery; and the left of the railway carriage for the view of that strange mountainous mass of rock-needles-Monserrat. Thrown, in railroad travelling, with the promiscuous people, a general national physiognomy and complexion,

as well as habits and dress, will be observed; nevertheless the Gothic characteristics to the North, and the Moorish to the South, will be found to have left traces in features and colour of the races who long contended for the empire of the Peninsula. Despite Spanish stubbornness, French customs of modern date have crept into Spain, especially in the frontier provinces; and where these prevail, it will usually be seen that the importation is of the worst quality in all things. That insinuating and clever people, it is hoped, will bring along their better wares, in principle and practice after a while.

About an hour and a half from Barcelona, there will be seen to the left an insulated mountain mass of grey rock, crowned with pinnacles lifted three thousand eight hundred feet high, like needles piercing the vapour tissues that often hang about their points. The constantly changing aspects of this gigantic and wonderful geological formation, give great interest to the halfhour's ride during which it is kept in view. It is well named Monserrat-serrated mountain-and many a storm-cloud has been sawn asunder by its huge teeth. The Monistrol station thirty-two miles from Barcelona is the stopping place for tourists visiting Monserrat by this route. Another route-that on the Tarragona railroad to the Martorell station, thence by carriage, and horse to the mountain summit, and then to the Monastery; thence on the return, by omnibus or horse to the Monistrol station, and back to Barcelona by the Zaragoza Railroad-is the one usually taken by excursionists. Without hesitation, however, it is said, do not take three days of time and discomfort to make this

trip, unless you are a geologist in search of a mountain of pebbles and boulders, agglomerated in cement of more than Roman cohesion and flintiness; fused, fashioned, and upheaved by Nature's forces. Or, as a theologian, you are curious in matters of Pagan Christianity. Or are willing to pay the price for a stand-point commanding a vast outspread of contrasted pictures, if Nature sees fit to unveil them to view. If interested in one of the material phases of religionism, the tourist will find in a consecrated grotto, near the Benedictine Monastery of Monserrat (where bed and board can be had) a "miraculous image of the Virgin, the handiwork of Luke the Apostle." Work and workman are thus set down in a "Hand-book for Spain." If St. Luke the Evangelist be meant-for no such Apostle was appointed by Christ, and the eleven survivors ordained Matthias to the "Apostleship from which Judas by transgression fell"-and he were here now pursuing his traditional "handiwork," he would scarcely consider himself flattered by the sinister compliment. And yet the word "miraculous" covers the case very fittingly, as followers of all creeds and confessions of faith can interpret it to their liking. Some think that a more miraculously hideous claimant of worship, despite the millinery of gold embroidered skirt and robe flashing with gems, never insulted good taste; to say nothing of good sense, and reverence for Him, who said "Thou shalt not make to thyself any graven. image. Thou shalt not bow down to them, nor worship them." And how Ignatius Loyola, the founder of the most learned of the religious orders, could have so set at naught the plain precepts of the faith he