RETURN TO BUENOS AYRES. 191 for us. A boat was sent ashore, and in a few minutes we were descending the river under the care of the Scotch engineer. There had been no rain for a couple of hours, so we were quite dry, but very soon after we got on board our vessel the storm returned to the charge; it lasted all the afternoon, and at night the thunder and lightning became so tremendous that the captain resolved to wait at Fray Bentos till the weather improved. Early in the morning we moved on again, and at Higueritas took in some half-drowned passengers, one of whom proved to be a great friend of mine. About noon we arrived at Buenos Ayres, full of grateful recollections of happiness in the Banda Oriental. CHAPTER IX. GAUCHOS AND WAR. RASTREADOR AND FORTIFICATIONS OF BUENOS AYRES - TRAINING OF A GAUCHO- HIGH PRICES -VICTORY! TO RETURN TO BRAZIL. HEN we returned to Buenos Ayres, wars and WHEN rumours of wars were still in the ascendant, and it was interesting to watch how in an immature country such matters are managed. A state of siege was maintained, and the fortifications had been progressing. Every man and horse that could be got at was pressed into the service and sent into the field; but the question which naturally suggested itself was how, with only a few troops and national guards left in the city, it would be possible to man the works that extended round a place of such dimensions. Large issues of fresh paper dollars were voted by an enthusiastic Sala, and high wages were paid to hundreds of men employed in the THE FORTIFICATIONS. 193 construction of the forts. The trenches and embankments were completed, and one of the most curious little forts ever seen was established on the side of the Palermo road, scarcely a quarter of a mile from the quinta in which I was staying with the Consul. It was a thorough toy: they patted it smooth, covered the outside with plaster to look like stone, and arranged turfs very neatly on the top of it. Two guns were mounted, one apparently a 12-pounder and the other about half that size; a solitary sentinel paced up and down, and when some heavy rain set in they built a sentry-box for him; a small gipsy-tent on the other side of the road contained three or four other soldiers to relieve guard: and this was called a fortification. Some of the works at the opposite end of the city were rather more imposing, and had the advantage of a very commanding position; but no European could look at them without wondering how they were to be manned or defended against a determined foe. The fact is, however, that they were in all probability quite sufficiently strong to resist any enemy that was likely to be brought against them. The greater part of such an army as Urquiza could bring into the field would consist of gaucho cavalry, to whom the trenches, slight as they were, would be an insuperable obstacle, while a few round shot thrown judiciously among them from the occasional forts would deter them from attempting the task of entering by even the most favourable approaches. In fact, a gaucho army is in all probability too wild and undisciplined to maintain such a continuous and energetic effort as would be required to storm the simplest of defences. The red ponchos and long lances of Urquiza's horsemen inspired terror in the open field, but the Buenos Ayreans had an infinitely better chance with a trench in front of them. One day in the camp, seeing something moving in an unusual manner we turned towards it, and found two little ragged urchins, about eight years old, who hid themselves suddenly in a hole in the ground, but seeing they were discovered they came out again; they had been skinning a cow-which we will charitably hope had died a natural death-and then, harnessing two dogs to the hide, they were driving it home in that fashion across the camp, looking highly satisfied with their prize, lawful or unlawful. We amused ourselves by trying to frighten them with questions about it, but the swarthy imps boldly said it was their own property, and we left them with a laugh. Such are the materials from which the full-blown gaucho is developed in perfection. These half-wild urchins ride almost as soon as they can walk, and their highest ambition is to be tall enough to catch a horse by the mane, which is all they require for mounting him; they are on his back in a moment, and he must be a very clever back-jumper if he can get rid of them. Saddle or no saddle, it is just the same to them, and they ride with a gusto and keen sense of wild enjoyment which is very inspiriting to a spectator. They practise with the lazo and the bolas on pigs and fowls; they ride round and round the partridges till they are near enough to knock them down with the whip, and make a profound study of the use of the knife. With these accomplishments they are considered ready for the life of a peon or servant on a farm or estancia, where they soon get accustomed to managing sheep and cattle, and where by good conduct they may be pretty sure of obtaining promotion on the establishment. From men trained in this way the greater part of the army is extemporised: they are taken suddenly from their occupations and their homes; and though they have no objection to using the knife in a disturbance among themselves, they detest being compelled to fight in masses for some object which they do not understand or care for. No wonder that numbers of them throw down their arms and run away at the best speed of their favourite horses. They abhor discipline, and are distinguished by a haughty and independent dignity. If they do not like their master or their position they ride away, perfectly sure of suiting themselves somewhere else, and would generally do anything rather than take to soldiering. Their endurance on horseback is wonderful, and they think nothing of riding hard all day, before touching a morsel of food. In actual distances however, |