saloon. The palace is surrounded by a ditch half filled with green stagnant water, the dullness of which was only relieved by the croaking of legions of undisturbed frogs. The gardens and grounds, which abounded with hares, are very formally disposed into dull, unshaded, geometrical walks. After supper a brilliant moon and cloudless night, attracted us into one of the most beautiful and majestic avenues of beeches I ever saw, immediately opposite the palace.

In this wood are several genteel country houses, many of which were formerly occupied by those who belonged to the Orange court. The inn here is much frequented, the accommodations of which are good, by the people of Amsterdam, who frequently make parties to it, and it is the great resort of those married couples fresh from the altar, until the honey moon is in her wane.

In the morning about five o'clock we set off for Zeyst, or Ziest, and passed through a large tract of champagne country, interspersed with short brushwood, the dull monotony of which was at last relieved by a vast pyramid, erected by the French troops who were encamped in the immense open space in which it stands, amounting to 30,000 men, under the command of general Marmont, in honour of Buonaparte. It was commenced the 24th Fructidor, 12 ann. and finished in thirty-two days.

The whole was designed by the chief of the battalion of engineers. The total height of this stupendous monument is about 30 metres, or 110 French feet; that of the obelisk, exclusive of the socle, is about 13 metres, or 42 French feet. One end of the base of the pyramid is 48 metres, or 148 feet. From the summit of the obelisk the eye ranges over a vast extent of country-Utrecht, Amersfort, Amsterdam, Haarlem, the Hague, Dordrecht, Leyden, Gorcum, Breda, Arnheim, Nuneguen, Bois le Duc, Cleves, Zutphen, Dewenter, Swol, and a great part of the Zuydur Zee, may be distinctly seen on a fine clear day.

Upon this spot it is in contemplation immediately to erect a new city, the building of which, and the cutting of a canal to be connected with the adjoining navigation, have already commenced. Zeyst is a very handsome town, or rather an assemblage of country houses, it abounds with agreeable plantations and pleasant woods, and is much frequented in the summer by the middling classes of wealthy merchants from Amsterdam, who sit under the trees and smoke. with profound gravity, occasionally looking at those who pass, without feeling any inclination to move themselves.

!!

J

The principal hotel here is upon a noble scale, the politest attentions are paid to strangers, and the charges are far from being extravagant. The only striking object of curiosity in the town is a very spacious building, formerly belonging to count Zinzendorf, i and now to a fraternity of ingenious and industrious Germans, amounting to eighty persons, who haves formed themselves into a rational liberal society, called, the Herrenhuthers, or Moravians. This immense house, in its object, though not in its appearance, resembles our Exeter 'Change, but infinitely more the splendid depot of goods of every description, kept by i a very wealthy and highly respectable Englishman: of the name of Hoy at Petersburg. Upon ringing at. the principal entrance, we were received with politeness by one of the brotherhood, in the dress of a layman, who unlocked it and conducted us into ten good sized rooms, each containing every article of trades most useful, such as watchmakers, silversmiths, saddlers, milliners, grocers, &c. Many of these articles. are manufactured by the brethren who have been tu tored in England, or have been imported from our»country. The artificers work upon the basement story, at the back of the house, and no sound of trade is heard, on the contrary, the tranquillity of a mo- i nastery pervades the whole.

After we had amused ourselves with roying about

this agreeable place, we set off for Utrecht, which I think one of the most beautiful cities in Holland, next to the Hague, which it is said to exceed in size. The streets are wide, and the buildings handsome, amongst which the hand of the Spanish architect is frequently to be traced. The canals are about twenty feet below the street; and the access to them for the servants of the adjoining houses is by a subterranean passage. These canals are very much neglected, and were covered in all directions with cabbage-stalks, leaves, and other vegetable substances, left to putrify upon the surface. There I first beheld a branch of the Rhine unimingled with other waters."

The cathedral must once have been an enormous and aragnificent structure, if I may judge by the dome or tower, the only part which remains perfect. The ruins present a fine specimen of the Gothic, some ef the ornaments of which were in high preservation, and very beautiful. The tower is of the astonishing height of 464 feet, and from the top, on a clear day, no less than fifty-one walled cities and towns may be seen; and the pyramid erected in honour of Napoleón at Zeyst presents a noble appearance in this expanded view. The ramparts are about four miles round the tower, and afford an agreeable and picturesque walk. Utrecht was once a rich and powerful see, the bishops of which were sovereign princes, who laying the crosier aside, and assuming the sword, frequently waged bloody warfare with their rivals the prince bishops of Leyden.

The same causes which have thinned the number of students at Leyden, have reduced those of Utrecht, which do not exceed three hundred and sixty, most of whom are the sons of the inhabitants of the city. A botanic garden has lately been formed near the dome of the cathedral; it is upon a small scale, but appeared to be well arranged.

Cornelius Poelemburg, an artist of high distinction, was born at Utrecht, as were Anthony Waterloo, John Glauber, called Polidore; the two brothers, John and

Andrew Bott, and Anna Maria Schurman, who was profoundly versed in languages, displayed great skill and taste in painting, as well as in every other branch of the graphic and elegant arts: she was honoured with a visit from Christina, queen of Sweden. I quitted this beautiful place, the prosperity of which has suffered much by the war with England, about four o'clock on a beautiful autumnal morning, and proceeded toArnheim, which and Nimeguen are the capital cities of Guelderland. This beautiful and valuable province contains twenty-two considerable towns, and upwards of three hundred villages. Guelderland, remarkable for the salubrity of its climate and the fertility of its soil, abounds with the most romantic variety of scenery, mountain and valley, and is well stocked in every direction with fine cattle, and abounds with game, All the way to Arnheim the eye was gladdened by some of the most delightful objects descriptive of the amenity of nature.

We were serenaded all the way by nightingales, which are very numerous in every part of this province. Arnheim or Arnhem, is a very large and elegant city, partly watered by a branch of the Naas, over which are several drawbridges, from which there are many agreeable views. The houses are in general well built, and, what is remarkable for a Dutch town, very few of them out of the perpendicular. Here the Dutch language begins to lose itself in the German, a circumstance made manifest by a friend of mine, a native of Germany, who accompanied me on my return from that country to Holland, finding considerable difficulty in understanding the lower people in Arnheim. The inns here are in general very good, This city gave birth to the celebrated David Beck in 1021, a disciple of Vandyke, from whom he imbibed that exquisite style of colouring and pencilling which belong to this school.

With an exception to large churches, and handsome streets, and some pretty and well-dressed women, there is little, at least as far as I could learn, to detain a

traveller in this city, so I set off for Wesel with all dus expedition, impatient to move upon the bosom of the Rhine. to 7)

℗ About four miles from Arnheim, just after passing a bridge of Boats at Sevenal, I entered a small town, at the end of which is the first barrier of the new territories of prince Joachim, grand admiral of France and duke of Berg, a piece of history which I first learned from a new ordinance or law in German and French, to regulate the safe delivery of letters, pasted upon one of the gates of the town. In this duchy most of the peasants are catholics, who make a public avowal of their faith by painting a large white cross on the outside of their houses. On the left, within a short distance of the frontier of prince Joachim's territory, upon the summit of a mountain, are two large religious houses for monks and nuns, A little indis position, in addition to the heat of a very sultry day, prevented me from quitting the carriage to visit the holy fraternity and sisterhood, of whom, I was informed, very few members remain, and those far advanced in life. On our right the spires of the city of Cleves, on the French side of the Rhine, appeared, and produced a very pleasing effect. Upon turning the base of the hill on which the monastic mansions stand, we entered upon a deep sandy road, and a very flat uninteresting country, in which very few objects occurred to afford any gratification to the eye. The Rhine occasionally appeared, but not to much advantage: the majesty of its breadth is obscured by the great number of islands upon it in this stage of its descent. After a tedious and y unpleasant journey L reached Wesel, a large dirty town, in short an abomin able dunghill, very strongly fortified. At Dinslaken, one of the post towns between Wesel and Dusseldorf, the post-master told me that two horses would not be sufficient in such roads for the carriage, and declared his determination, that, unless I took three, I should have none. If I had submitted to this imposition