looked ironbound all along shore. To the east, upon an elevated point of land, are two noble light houses, of very beautiful construction, which I shall have occasion to describe hereafter.

At some little distance, we saw considerable flights of wild ducks. The town and bason lie round the high western point from the lights, below which there is a fine pebbled beach. The quays are to the right and left within the pier, upon the latter of which there is a small round tower. It was not the intention of our packet-captain to anchor within the pier, for the purpose of saving the port anchorage dues, which amount to eight pounds sterling, but a government boat came off, and ordered the vessel close up to the quay, an order which was given in rather a peremptory manner. Upon our turning the pier, we saw, as we warped up to the quay, an immense motley crowd flocking down to view us. A panic ran throughout our poor fellow passengers. From the noise and confusion on shore, they expected that some recent revolution had occurred, and that they were upon the point of experiencing all the calamities which they had before fied from; they looked pale and agitated upon each other. It turned out, however, that mere curiosity, excited by the display of English colours, had assembled this formidable rabble. Upon the landing of the emigrants, we were much pleased to observe that the people offered them neither violence nor insult. They were received with a sullen silence, and a lane was made for them to pass into the town. At the custom-heuse, notwithstanding what the English papers have said of the conduct of the revenue officers, we were very civilly treated, our boxes were only just opened, and some of our packages were not examined at all. Away we had them whirled to the Hôtel de la Paix, the front of which looks upon the wet-dock, and is embellished with a large board, upon which is recorded in yellow characters, as usual, the superior advantages of this

house over every other hotel in Havre. Upon our arrival, we were ushered up a large dirty staircase into a lofty room, upon the first floor, all the windows of which were open, divided, as they always are in France, in the middle, like folding doors; the floor was tiled; a deal table, some common rush chairs, two very fine pier glasses, and chandeliers to correspond, composed our motley furniture. It was a good specimen of French inns in general. We were followed by our hostess, the porter, two cooks, with caps on their heads, which had once been white, and large knives in their hands, who were succeeded by two chamber-maids, all looking in the greatest hurry and confusion, and all talking together, with a velocity and vehemence which rendered the faculty of hearing almost a misfortune. They appeared highly delighted to see us, talked of our dress, sir Sidney Smith, the blockade, the noble English, the peace, and a train of etceteras. At length we obtained a little cessation, of which we immediately seized the advantage, by directing them to shew us to our bed-rooms, to procure abundance of water hot and cold, to get us a good breakfast as soon as possible, and to prepare a good dinner for us at four o'clock. Amidst a peal of tongues, this clamorous procession retired.

After we had performed our necessary ablutions, and had enjoyed the luxury of fresh linen, we sat down to some excellent coffee, accompanied with boiled milk, long, delicious rolls, and tolerably good butter, but found no knives upon the table; which, by the bye, every traveller in France is presumed to carry with him: having mislaid my own, I requested the maid to bring me one. The person of this damsel would certainly have suffered by a comparison with those flagrant flowers to which young poets resemble their beloved mistresses; as soon as I had preferred my prayer, she very deliberately drew from her pocket a large clasp knife, which, after she had

wiped on her apron, she presented to me, with a "voila, monsieur." I received this dainty present with every mark of due obligation, accompanied, at the same time, with a resolution not to use it, particularly as my companions (for we had two other English gentlemen with us) had directed her to bring some others to them. This delicate instrument was as savoury as its mitress; amongst the various fragrancies which it emitted, garlic seemed to have the mastery.

About twelve o'clock we went to the hall of the municipality, to procure our pastports for the interior, and found it crowded with people upon the same errand. We made our way through them into a very handsome anti-room, and thence, by a little further perseverance, into an inner room, where the mayor and his officers were seated at a large table covered with green cloth. To shew what reliance is to be placed upon the communications of English newspapers, I thall mention the following circumstance: my companion had left England without a passport, owing to the repeated assurances of both the ministe rial and opposition prints, and also of a person high in administration, that none were necessary.

The first question propounded to us by the secretary was, Citizens, where are your passports?" I had furnished myself with one; but upon hearing this question, I was determined not to produce it, from an apprehension that I should make my friend, who had none, an object of suspicion; so we answered, that in England they were not required of Frenchmen, and that we had left our country with official assurai ces that they would not be demanded of us in France.

They replied to us, by reading a decree which rigorously required them of foreigners entering upon the territories of the republic; and they assured us, that this regulation was at that moment reciprocal with every other power, and with England in parti❤

cular. The decree of course closed the argument. They then said they would write to our ambassador to know who we were, and that in the mean time they would make out our passports for the town, the barriers of which we were not to pass. Accordingly, a little fat gentleman, in a black coat, filled up these official instruments, which were copied into their books, and both signed by us; he then commenced our "signalement," which is a regular descriptive portrait of the head of the person who has thus the ho nour of sitting to the municipal portrait painters of the department de la Seine inférieure.

The other English gentlemen were in the same predicament. Our signalements afforded us much diversion, which at length was a little augmented by a plan for our liberation. After dinner I waited upon a young gentleman, who was under the care of a very respectable merchant, to whom I had the good fortune to have letters of introduction. Through his means I was introduced to mons. de la M—, who received me with great politeness. In the hurry and occupations of very extensive commercial pursuits, this amiable old gentleman had found leisure to indulge himself in works of taste. His noble fortune enabled him to gratify his liberal inclinations. I found him seated in his compting-house, which, from its handsome furniture and valuable paintings, resembled an elegant cabinet. I stated the conduct of the municipality towards us, and·equested his assistance. After he had shewn me his apartments, a fine collection of drawings, by some of the first masters, and some more excellent paintings, we parted, with an assurance that he would immediately wait upon the mayor, who was his friend, and had no doubt but that he should in the course of the next day enable us to leave Havre, when and in what manner we pleased. With this agreeable piece of intelligence, I immediately returned to the inn, where it induced us to drink health and success to the friendly merchant in another bottle of Champaign.

After this we proceeded to take a survey of the town, which is composed of long and narrow streets. The fronts of the houses, which are lofty, are deformed by the wood of the frame-work being left bare, which produces a very heavy and mean appearance.

The commerce formerly carried on at Havre, was very extensive: it is still celebrated for its lace manufactories. The theatre is spacious, well arranged, and, as far as we could judge by day-light, handsome. ly decorated. The players did not perform during our stay. In the vegetable market-place, which 18 much crowded and large, we saw at this season of the year abundance of fine apples, as fresh in appearance as when first plucked from the tree.

In our way, we were accosted by a little ragged beggar boy, who addressed himself to our compassionate dispositions, by the appellation of "très-charitable citoyen," but finding we gave nothing, himmediately changed it to mon cher très-charitable

monsieur."

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The strange uncouth expression of" citoyen" is generally laid aside, except amongst the immediate officers under government, in their official communications, who, however, renounce it in private, for the more civilized title of " monsieur."

The principal church is a fine handsome building, and had been opened for worship the Sunday before we arrived: on that day the bell of the Sabbath first sounded, during ten years of revolution, infidelity, and bloodshed!!!

The royal arms are every where removed. They formerly composed a very beautiful ornament over the door of the hotel of the present prefect, at the head of the market place, which has been rudely beaten out by battle axes, and replaced by crude republican emblems, which every where (I speak of them as a decoration) seem to disfigure the buildings that bear them. When I make this remark, I must, however, candidly confess, that my mind very cordially