CHAPTER VIII

NARRATIVE - PARAISO AND EL PAVON

T

HE commissioners were much delayed in their journey toward Greytown, as the Government had seized the "Victoria" to transport troops and munitions of war, and they could not cross the lake; but finally the last rumble of insurrection died away, and their interrupted travels were resumed. Shortly afterwards, having increased our party by the addition of the Davis brothers of Rivas, A. L. Scott, a coffee planter of Matagalpa, and a number of natives, we moved to a place called Paraiso (Paradise), in the gorge of the Rio Grande. The first part of our way lay over llanos, but we soon plunged into the forest, travelling in a direction parallel to the canal line and making an occasional detour around the head of some rugged gully or muddy creek. A band of macheteros preceded the carretas, cutting a way through the tangled underbrush, and frequently stopping to readjust the loads after wild plunges through deep ravines or over fallen trees, while I brought up the rear on horseback. Parrots

bathe at will, furnished an abundant supply of drinking water, and to it came all the beasts of the forest every night. Pumas crept with stealthy steps to old familiar pools, and deer, which through the heat of the day had lain concealed in shady brakes, ventured forth as daylight died, to drink and browse till dawn. All through the night, while the moon sailed by above us, we heard strange noises from the sombre depths of the woods, and doubtless wild eyes glared at us, as their owners wondered what strange beings had invaded the privacy of their domains. It was not until the Southern Cross had set and the cook's fire had begun to crackle and throw dancing shadows on the wall of green around us that the forest world was still; and then the eastern sky brightened to a pallid gray, and we tumbled out to breakfast and another day's hard work. And hard work it was, with various annoyances in the shape of heat, insects, and an allencircling plague of "pica-pica." Garrapatas, or minute ticks, swarmed everywhere, dropping or blowing from the foliage upon their helpless prey, while myriads of wasps and ants conducted their attacks with a method and precision worthy of an army. In the middle of the day the sun was extremely hot, but as most of the country was heavily timbered and a breeze blew constantly across the lake