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than last month for pardessus and for robes ; | into favour, both for the promenade and halfthey are very extensively seen in morning dress; in the former it is dark green or blue, négligé; the robe, always quite high, has the but more generally grey; all the shades of this corsage decorated with brandebourgs in the last colour, so fashionable during autumn, conHungarian style. The pardessus, always of the tinue their vogue; the darker ones for the prosame material and colour, may be trimmed only / menade, the others in half-dress, and evening with broad galoon, or with dentelle de laine. costume. Those for the promenade are trimmed Satin à la Reine, gros d'Ecosse, a very strong with velvet flowers, or a bouquet of very short plain silk, and velvet, are the materials adopted feathers placed on each side; the interior may for pardessus ; the latter is far more in vogue either be decorated with ribbon, or a tuft of than any of the former. The trimmings are foliage placed low at each side. Light shades of galons, embroideries half in soutache and half in grey, blue, pink, and white, are the colours emgalons, lace, fur, and chenille. I have observed ployed for these chapeaux in half-dress. Some within the last few weeks that pardessus, whether are trimmed with choux of satin, or what is for négligé or toilette habillée, are almost all much prettier, choux formed of the beards of black, both inside and out; the few that appear marahouts, others with feathers or velvet flowers, in colours are grenat, marron, very dark green, but feathers predominate. violet, and grey. The great majority of pardessus I may cite, among the newest chapeaux for are made with sleeves; but if not, the pelerine morning visits, those composed of plain velvet or second fall is so contrived as to supply the of a more open shape than those now adopted, want of them. Among the variety of forms and descending lower on the cheeks; the extethat appear, the latest, and I think the most rior is trimmed with an aigrette of heron's feaelegant, is the one I have given for our first thers : sprigs of chenille in the interior supply plate. Paletots will lose nothing of their vogue; the place of mancéries. The most novel capotes they are made longer in promenade dress than of a simple form are composed of satin put plain those worn in the beginning of autumn, but that on the crown, but the brim is formed of bouilis the only alteration that has taken place. The lonnés of the same, encircled by narrow velvet latest that has appeared for demi-toilette is the ribbon laid on rather full; the garniture is a paletot visite; it is composed of velvet, either naud-rosace, composed of velvet to correspond, black or one of the colours I have mentioned ; attached on one side ; foliage, or very small it is scarcely a three-quarter length; the corsage flowers of chenille, decorate the interior. rather close, is formed to the shape by chains of Velours épinglé of light colours, particularly passementerie. The sleeves are demi-large; they white, is very fashionable: the majority are are trimmed round the armhole with effilé of a trimmed on the exterior with a very small bounew kind; the collar and the bottom of the quet of heron's feathers on each side; the inskirt are bordered to correspond. Velvet mantles terior of the brim is entirely covered with bouilof a round form, and not quite a three-quarter lonnés of narrow blonde : the effect of this light length, are a good deal seen in carriage-dress; kind of trimming is exceedingly becoming. they are either embroidered all round in chenille Casoar plumes are much in vogue for plain or else bordered with ermine or sable. A kind velvet chapeaux ; there are generally two placed of cloak, called pardessus Talma, has just ap- at each side; the interior may be ornamented peared; it is of a round form, and is raised on either with tufts of double hyacinths or forgetthe arms like a shawl; it is composed of velvet me-nots. Black lace, long as it has been in or satin, and trimmed with lace or fur. There favour for chapeaux, is still very much employed ; is something original and striking in its form, so are ruches, either of tulle or narrow lace. A but I cannot yet say how far it may become good many satin and velours épinglé capotes have fashionable. Fur trimmings are much in vogue; no other ornament than a lace ruche round the muffs are indispensable, and pelerines of various brim. Velvet chapeaux of dark colours, lined forms extensively seen.
with white satin, are much in request, but not I have observed within the last month some so much as those of light-coloured satin lined capotes of a closer form; it is the only change with black velvet, and the exterior trimmed with that has occurred in shapes, but I think there black lace and petites plumes of two colours. is more variety a good deal in trimmings. The The mode of trimming the interior of the brim introduction of chenille has been very favourably very fully still continues, but the only novelty is received; ornaments composed of it are a good the introduction of ornaments of chenille ; but deal employed both for chapeaux and capotes ; a though more novel than garnitures of flowers or good many of the former, composed of white or feathers for the interior of chapeaux, it is by no coloured satin, have the exterior covered with a means so becoming; the latter especially are chenille net. The chapeau is white satin; the admirably adapted for these trimmings 'from net is always strongly contrasted; a willow their extreme lightness, and the softness they plume of the same hue, or spotted with white, give to the countenance. Generally speaking, droops on one side. The interior is decorated blonde, intermingled with ribbon, is employed with very light sprigs of flowers. Others have for the interior of morning chapeaux ; feathers the crown only covered with the net; it termi- are disposed in demi-wreaths. nates in light ornaments, which droop over the Woollen materials are a good deal adopted brim at each side. Peluche, which has been laid for promenade robes in negligé, cloth of a new aside during some seasona past, has again come l and slight kind, of various shades of grey, basin de laine, and royal de laine, are all employed. , the splendour that distinguished both some years The redingote form is most general; they are ago. Satins of great richness, moire argentée, made quite high, and closed from top to bottom. and other gold and silver silks are prepared for Some have the corsages made with short basques, grand parties. Satins, velvets, velours épinglé, or, as they would be called in English, jackets, and moires, particularly moire antique, may be quite at the back. Some of these dresses have adopted with rich trimmings for these parties, no trimming but a row of buttons down the or worn in evening dress with garnitures of a front; others are ornamented with embroidery, less expensive kind. I may cite, among the robes half soutache and half galons.
intended for the first, robes of rose or blue satin, The materials for half-dress robes are very | opening on moire argentée ; satin disposed in numerous. Valencias, both plain and plaided, quilles decorates each side of the opening; they are in request; the former, of different shades of are attached by a row of silver galon. The corgrey, and always made en redingote, are orna- | sage cut very low, tight to the shape, and very mented with dark green or dark blue galons deeply pointed, is decorated with a berthe of disposed in brandebourgs by knots. The plaided | silver blonde lace, which covers the short tight Valencias have the corsage only trimmed in a sleeves. A knot of silver torsades is attached to simple style, with ornaments of passementerie of the opening just below the point of the corsage, the same colour. Cashmere and poplin robes and a double cordelière, terminated by two are trimmed with dentelles de laine, surmounted tassels to correspond, issues from it. Some by passementerie à jour of a very light pattern. moire robes, of light colours, have the corsages These robes are made in a very plain style, with cut very low, deeply pointed, and draped on the high corsages and Amadis sleeves. The corsages, l bosom; it is trimmed with silver blonde lace. open in front, display a frilled and embroidered | Very short sleeves, draped and terminated by chemisette ; the manchettes are also embroidered.) silver blonde ruches. The skirt opens on one Generally speaking, damasks are preferred to side only; the opening is edged with a full plain materials, both for robes and redingotes. I ruche of silver blonde. Lace is much employed I must observe that both forms are in equal for the garnitures of robes, both for the theatre favour in half-dress. Damask robes are usually and soirée. If the silks are of light colours, the decorated with passementerie in chenille. Velvet | lace must be white; if the robes are of dark or is employed for redingotes, colour on colour, | full colours, black lace is employed. A novel forming revers reaching to the bottom of the style of garniture is composed of small lace lapskirt. Black lace is a good deal employed for pets placed in knots upon robes that are open at satin robes; it is generally disposed in volants, I each side. Echelles of blonde lace, of the colour there may either be three deep ones, four of of the robe, are also very much in favour; they different widths, or even as many as nine of are continued en V on the corsage, the back of narrow lace; each surmounted by a narrow which they also encircle. Black lace is princiruche of tulle. This style of garniture, in white pally employed for flounces and draperies ; it lace upon pink or blue satin or taffeta, has an is frequently mixed with knots of ribbon for elegant effect: if the flounces are deep, the cor- either. sage should have a berthe; if they are narrow, it I may cite, among the ball-dresses, a robe of ought to be adorned with a profusion of narrow | plain white satin ; the corsage cut very low, and lace, parting from the shoulder, and forming a the front covered with a pointed berthe of silver gerbe on the breast and back of the corsage, 1 tulle lama : a scarf of the same, terminated by which is terminated by a moderate point. Velvet silver fringe, ornamented the front of the skirt; robes are much in request for morning visits; | it was disposed en tablier, so as to form a fan at they are the only ones that may be worn with the bottom. Some robes of rich white gauze pardessus of the same material; if the dress is a have the corsages pointed and draped a la robe, a broad band of fur encircles the bottom Grecque, or à la Tyrolienne. Very short sleeve, of the skirt; if it is a redingote, the garniture on forming a double bouffant. Two skirts; the the corsage descends in an enlarged form to the upper one raised by a knot of ribbon, a tuft of bottom of the skirt. The second figure of our flowers, or foliage, on the extremity of the right first plate is one of the most elegant models of in front, and at the extremity of the left behind. morning visiting dress.
The garniture is always in accord with the orna. Caps retain all their vogue both in home dressments employed to loop the skirt. The under and for social dinner parties; an alteration is dress, of white silk or satin, has no trimming, talked of in the form, but as yet it is only talked | nor has the tulle skirt always any; but the upper of. One of the prettiest that has lately appeared one is always bordered to correspond with the is the coiffure jeune femme, in blonde and ornaments of which I have already spoken. velvet; it is the fourth figure in our first plate. Although the forms have not changed, there is
our irst plate. very pretty garniture for gauze or tulle gauze
robes, is composed of three bouillons divided by a great deal of variety in the trimmings; some small tufts of roses. A very low pointed corsage, appear really covered with foliage and flowers : ornamented en revers with bouillonné, the bou the blonde that forms the foundation is nearly lons parted by very small tufts of rosebuds. concealed by the garniture. Foliage and flower's sleeves correspond; they are very short. of feathers are much admired, and have a singu- I may cite among the robes that were larly pretty effect.
admired at the official balls already given, those Evening and ball dresses seem likely to resume of white satin with an upper skirt of tulle in
Description of the Plates.
form of a tunique à la Romaine, embroidered in, we give the plates sent by our French correbeads; it is short and open in front, but falling spondent as usual; for, as the mourning will be low behind. Satin corsage and sleeves ; the already advanced when our magazine appears, latter entirely covered by the berthe cut in points our subscribers may have the dresses, &c., &c., terminated by small bead tassels; a light em- that we give, made either in mourning or colours, broidery is strewed over the berthe : it is of tulle. as suits their convenience. Other robes, of satin or moire antique, had the corsages trimmed with gauze draperies prolonged
FIRST PLATE. en tablier on the skirt : they were retained from
Public PROMENADE Dress.-Green dadistance to distance by knots of ribbon, with a
mask robe; close high corsage, and sleeves a precious stone in the centre of each. There was considerable variety in trimmings;
three-quarter length, tight at the upper part, those of feather-fringe headed by silver torsades,
moderately wide and rounded at the bottom; and a berthe to correspond, were a good deal
cambric under-sleeves, very wide, and confined
by a band at the wrist. Pardessus of the rich seen on silk and satin robes. Several tulle robes were trimmed with tulle bouillonnés rising as
black silk called gros grain, lined with black high as the knee, each row headed by flowers
gros de Naples : it is a pelisse of a three-quarter corresponding with those in the coiffure. Others,
length; the corsage close to the waist; the skirt
open from thence and square at the bottom. of crape or tulle, were profusely decorated with i narrow ribbon ruches. Gold and silver blonde
There are three pelerines also square, and a
small falling collar; the corsage is trimmed with lace volants, or those of crape if it was the material of the dress, scalloped and placed in
a lappel en caur, formed of black fringe with a guirlandes attached by flowers. Others, also of
heading of chenille. The bottom of each pelerine,
and that of the pelisse, is trimmed with fringe crape, with three skirts, each encircled by a cordon of flowers, or trimmed with seven narrow
with a similar heading, but the chenille only galons of silver on each. Many of the satin
goes up the fronts. Red lilac satin capote, a robes were embroidered in silk and gold, or silk
moderately close shape ; the drawings are cross
wise; the garniture is composed of the same and beads in several rows round the border. The hair was principally disposed in full
material, and ribbon to correspond. Sable
muff. bands, flat ones being adopted by very young
MORNING VISITING DRESS.-Grey levanladies only. A few coiffures were in ringlets,
els, tine redingote; the corsage high at the back, and also a few in the Chinese style. The ma- |
opens en caur on the bosom, displaying an emjority were ornamented with flowers; wreaths
broidered cambric chemisette; it is trimmed with predominated; some were intermingled with diamond sprigs, bouquets frosted that sparkled in
| a pelerine lappel of sable fur, continued en tablier
down the front of the skirt in the form of a the lights as if they were touched with the dew. I should observe, if the robe was adorned with
broken cone. Tight sleeves, finished with sable
cuffs ; they are short enough to display the camflowers, those in the hair always corresponded.
bric under-sleeve, with an embroidered cuff. Those ladies who did not appear in their hair
Green velvet chapeau ; a round shape, open over wore turbans ornamented with feathers and
a | the forehead, and close at the sides. The gardiamonds : demi-turbans were a good deal adopted by younger belles, some were placed
niture is ribbon to correspond. very far back, and attached by two short fea
Half-Length FIGURES. thers, and pearl or jewelled ornaments. Petits bords of silver blonde, decorated with têtes des No. 3. HOME DINNER DRESS.--Silver grey plumes, were adopted with dresses trimmed satin robe; a high close corsage, descending in either with silver or feather fringe. There were a deep rounded point. Sleeves a three-quarter also a good many coiffures formed of silver or length, open to the elbow, but laced with cords gold gauze scarfs, wound through the hair and tassels ; muslin under-sleeves. A rich corsomewhat in the demi-turban style. I have no delière encircles the waist. The head-dress is alteration to announce in fashionable colours. formed of a black lace lappet disposed in the ADRIENNE DE M-.. cap style; it is put very far back on the head ;
the ends descend upon the shoulders ; a band of rose ribbon crosses the summit of the head, and
is disposed in coques at the sides. Embroidered DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. muslin collar and rose-coloured neck-knot.
No. 4. HOME-DRESS.-Blue silk robe; velvet
cazaweck of a deeper shade; it is cut in a novel The mourning for Her late Majesty the Queen form, with three gores on each side at the botDowager is very general; her death is indeed om, the seams covered with fancy trimming. universally and most justly lamented; but as The corsage is made quite high, and rather close mnourning at this season, and more especially a fitting behind. Sleeves a three-quarter length, long continuance of it, must be extremely in- ' gored at the bottom to correspond with the jurious to trade, our gracious Queen will, it is skirt. Black lace cap, a very small size, desaid, be pleased to shorten it; and, as the forms corated with roses panaches and ruby velvet for dresses, chapeaux, &c., &c., must be the ribbon. same, though they may be made black or grey, No. 5. EVENING DRE88.-White satin robe;