than last month for pardessus and for robes; they are very extensively seen in morning négligé; the robe, always quite high, has the corsage decorated with brandebourgs in the Hungarian style. The pardessus, always of the same material and colour, may be trimmed only with broad galoon, or with dentelle de laine. Satin à la Reine, gros d'Ecosse, a very strong plain silk, and velvet, are the materials adopted for pardessus; the latter is far more in vogue than any of the former. The trimmings are galons, embroideries half in soutache and half in galons, lace, fur, and chenille. I have observed within the last few weeks that pardessus, whether for négligé or toilette habillée, are almost all black, both inside and out; the few that appear in colours are grenat, marron, very dark green, violet, and grey. The great majority of pardessus are made with sleeves; but if not, the pelerine or second fall is so contrived as to supply the want of them. Among the variety of forms that appear, the latest, and I think the most elegant, is the one I have given for our first plate. Paletots will lose nothing of their vogue; they are made longer in promenade dress than those worn in the beginning of autumn, but that is the only alteration that has taken place. The latest that has appeared for demi-toilette is the paletot visite; it is composed of velvet, either black or one of the colours I have mentioned; it is scarcely a three-quarter length; the corsage rather close, is formed to the shape by chains of passementerie. The sleeves are demi-large; they are trimmed round the armhole with effilé of a new kind; the collar and the bottom of the skirt are bordered to correspond. Velvet mantles of a round form, and not quite a three-quarter length, are a good deal seen in carriage-dress; they are either embroidered all round in chenille or else bordered with ermine or sable. A kind of cloak, called pardessus Talma, has just appeared; it is of a round form, and is raised on the arms like a shawl; it is composed of velvet or satin, and trimmed with lace or fur. There is something original and striking in its form, but I cannot yet say how far it may become fashionable. Fur trimmings are much in vogue; muffs are indispensable, and pelerines of various forms extensively seen. I have observed within the last month some capotes of a closer form; it is the only change that has occurred in shapes, but I think there is more variety a good deal in trimmings. The introduction of chenille has been very favourably received; ornaments composed of it are a good deal employed both for chapeaux and capotes; a good many of the former, composed of white or coloured satin, have the exterior covered with a chenille net. The chapeau is white satin; the net is always strongly contrasted; a willow plume of the same hue, or spotted with white, droops on one side. The interior is decorated with very light sprigs of flowers. Others have the crown only covered with the net; it termi- | nates in light ornaments, which droop over the brim at each side. Peluche, which has been laid aside during some seasons past, has again come into favour, both for the promenade and halfdress; in the former it is dark green or blue, but more generally grey; all the shades of this last colour, so fashionable during autumn, continue their vogue; the darker ones for the promenade, the others in half-dress and evening costume. Those for the promenade are trimmed with velvet flowers, or a bouquet of very short feathers placed on each side; the interior may either be decorated with ribbon, or a tuft of foliage placed low at each side. Light shades of grey, blue, pink, and white, are the colours employed for these chapeaux in half-dress. Some are trimmed with choux of satin, or what is much prettier, choux formed of the beards of marabouts, others with feathers or velvet flowers, but feathers predominate. I may cite, among the newest chapeaux for morning visits, those composed of plain velvet of a more open shape than those now adopted, and descending lower on the cheeks; the exterior is trimmed with an aigrette of heron's feathers: sprigs of chenille in the interior supply the place of mancéries. The most novel capotes of a simple form are composed of satin put plain on the crown, but the brim is formed of bouillonnés of the same, encircled by narrow velvet ribbon laid on rather full; the garniture is a næud-rosace, composed of velvet to correspond, attached on one side; foliage, or very small flowers of chenille, decorate the interior. Velours épinglé of light colours, particularly white, is very fashionable: the majority are trimmed on the exterior with a very small bouquet of heron's feathers on each side; the interior of the brim is entirely covered with bouillonnés of narrow blonde: the effect of this light kind of trimming is exceedingly becoming. Casoar plumes are much in vogue for plain velvet chapeaux; there are generally two placed at each side; the interior may be ornamented either with tufts of double hyacinths or forgetme-nots. Black lace, long as it has been in favour for chapeaux, is still very much employed; so are ruches, either of tulle or narrow lace. A good many satin and velours épinglé capotes have no other ornament than a lace ruche round the brim. Velvet chapeaux of dark colours, lined with white satin, are much in request, but not so much as those of light-coloured satin lined with black velvet, and the exterior trimmed with black lace and petites plumes of two colours. The mode of trimming the interior of the brim very fully still continues, but the only novelty is the introduction of ornaments of chenille; but though more novel than garnitures of flowers or feathers for the interior of chapeaux, it is by no means so becoming; the latter especially are admirably adapted for these trimmings from their extreme lightness, and the softness they give to the countenance. Generally speaking, blonde, intermingled with ribbon, is employed for the interior of morning chapeaux; feathers are disposed in demi-wreaths. Woollen materials are a good deal adopted for promenade robes in negligé, cloth of a new and slight kind, of various shades of grey, basin de laine, and royal de laine, are all employed. The redingote form is most general; they are made quite high, and closed from top to bottom. Some have the corsages made with short basques, or, as they would be called in English, jackets, quite at the back. Some of these dresses have no trimming but a row of buttons down the front; others are ornamented with embroidery, half soutache and half galons. the splendour that distinguished both some years ago. Satins of great richness, moire argentée, and other gold and silver silks are prepared for grand parties. Satins, velvets, velours épinglé, and moires, particularly moire antique, may be adopted with rich trimmings for these parties, or worn in evening dress with garnitures of a less expensive kind. I may cite, among the robes intended for the first, robes of rose or blue satin, opening on moire argentée; satin disposed in quilles decorates each side of the opening; they are attached by a row of silver galon. The cor deeply pointed, is decorated with a berthe of silver blonde lace, which covers the short tight sleeves. A knot of silver torsades is attached to the opening just below the point of the corsage, and a double cordeliere, terminated by two tassels to correspond, issues from it. Some moire robes, of light colours, have the corsages cut very low, deeply pointed, and draped on the bosom; it is trimmed with silver blonde lace. Very short sleeves, draped and terminated by silver blonde ruches. The skirt opens on one side only; the opening is edged with a full ruche of silver blonde. Lace is much employed for the garnitures of robes, both for the theatre and soirée. If the silks are of light colours, the lace must be white; if the robes are of dark or full colours, black lace is employed. A novel style of garniture is composed of small lace lappets placed in knots upon robes that are open at each side. Echelles of blonde lace, of the colour of the robe, are also very much in favour; they are continued en V on the corsage, the back of which they also encircle. Black lace is princi pally employed for flounces and draperies; i is frequently mixed with knots of ribbon for either. The materials for half-dress robes are very numerous. Valencias, both plain and plaided, are in request; the former, of different shades of grey, and always made en redingote, are orna-sage cut very low, tight to the shape, and very mented with dark green or dark blue galons disposed in brandebourgs by knots. The plaided Valencias have the corsage only trimmed in a simple style, with ornaments of passementerie of the same colour. Cashmere and poplin robes are trimmed with dentelles de laine, surmounted by passementerie à jour of a very light pattern. These robes are made in a very plain style, with high corsages and Amadis sleeves. The corsages, open in front, display a frilled and embroidered chemisette; the manchettes are also embroidered. Generally speaking, damasks are preferred to plain materials, both for robes and redingotes. I must observe that both forms are in equal favour in half-dress. Damask robes are usually decorated with passementerie in chenille. Velvet is employed for redingotes, colour on colour, forming revers reaching to the bottom of the skirt. Black lace is a good deal employed for satin robes; it is generally disposed in volants, there may either be three deep ones, four of different widths, or even as many as nine of narrow lace; each surmounted by a narrow ruche of tulle. This style of garniture, in white lace upon pink or blue satin or taffeta, has an elegant effect: if the flounces are deep, the corsage should have a berthe; if they are narrow, it ought to be adorned with a profusion of narrow lace, parting from the shoulder, and forming a gerbe on the breast and back of the corsage, which is terminated by a moderate point. Velvet robes are much in request for morning visits; they are the only ones that may be worn with pardessus of the same material; if the dress is a robe, a broad band of fur encircles the bottom of the skirt; if it is a redingote, the garniture on the corsage descends in an enlarged form to the bottom of the skirt. The second figure of our first plate is one of the most elegant models of morning visiting dress. Caps retain all their vogue both in home dress and for social dinner parties; an alteration is talked of in the form, but as yet it is only talked of. One of the prettiest that has lately appeared is the coiffure jeune femme, in blonde and velvet; it is the fourth figure in our first plate. Although the forms have not changed, there is a great deal of variety in the trimmings; some appear really covered with foliage and flowers: the blonde that forms the foundation is nearly concealed by the garniture. Foliage and flowers of feathers are much admired, and have a singularly pretty effect. Evening and ball dresses seem likely to resume I may cite, among the ball-dresses, a robe of plain white satin; the corsage cut very low, and the front covered with a pointed berthe of silver tulle lama: a scarf of the same, terminated by silver fringe, ornamented the front of the skirt; it was disposed en tablier, so as to form a fan at the bottom. Some robes of rich white gauze have the corsages pointed and draped à la Grecque, or à la Tyrolienne. Very short sleeve, forming a double bouffant. Two skirts; the upper one raised by a knot of ribbon, a tuft of flowers, or foliage, on the extremity of the right in front, and at the extremity of the left behind. The garniture is always in accord with the ornaments employed to loop the skirt. The underdress, of white silk or satin, has no trimming, nor has the tulle skirt always any; but the upper one is always bordered to correspond with the ornaments of which I have already spoken. A very pretty garniture for gauze or tulle gauze robes, is composed of three bouillons divided by small tufts of roses. A very low pointed corsage, ornamented en revers with bouillonné, the bouillons parted by very small tufts of rosebuds. The sleeves correspond; they are very short. I may cite among the robes that were most admired at the official balls already given, those of white satin with an upper skirt of tulle in the form of a tunique à la Romaine, embroidered in | we give the plates sent by our French correbeads; it is short and open in front, but falling spondent as usual; for, as the mourning will be low behind. Satin corsage and sleeves: the already advanced when our magazine appears, latter entirely covered by the berthe cut in points our subscribers may have the dresses, &c., &c., terminated by small bead tassels; a light em- that we give, made either in mourning or colours, broidery is strewed over the berthe: it is of tulle. as suits their convenience. Other robes, of satin or moire antique, had the corsages trimmed with gauze draperies prolonged en tablier on the skirt: they were retained from distance to distance by knots of ribbon, with a precious stone in the centre of each. There was considerable variety in trimmings; those of feather-fringe headed by silver torsades, and a berthe to correspond, were a good deal seen on silk and satin robes. Several tulle robes were trimmed with tulle bouillonnés rising as high as the knee, each row headed by flowers corresponding with those in the coiffure. Others, of crape or tulle, were profusely decorated with narrow ribbon ruches. Gold and silver blonde lace volants, or those of crape if it was the material of the dress, scalloped and placed in guirlandes attached by flowers. Others, also of crape, with three skirts, each encircled by a cordon of flowers, or trimmed with seven narrow galons of silver on each. Many of the satin robes were embroidered in silk and gold, or silk and beads in several rows round the border. The hair was principally disposed in full bands, flat ones being adopted by very young ladies only. A few coiffures were in ringlets, and also a few in the Chinese style. The majority were ornamented with flowers; wreaths predominated; some were intermingled with diamond sprigs, bouquets frosted that sparkled in the lights as if they were touched with the dew. I should observe, if the robe was adorned with flowers, those in the hair always corresponded. Those ladies who did not appear in their hair wore turbans ornamented with feathers and diamonds: demi-turbans were a good deal adopted by younger belles, some were placed very far back, and attached by two short feathers, and pearl or jewelled ornaments. Petits bords of silver blonde, decorated with tétes des plumes, were adopted with dresses trimmed either with silver or feather fringe. There were also a good many coiffures formed of silver or gold gauze scarfs, wound through the hair somewhat in the demi-turban style. I have no alteration to announce in fashionable colours. FIRST PLATE. PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS.-Green damask robe; close high corsage, and sleeves a moderately wide and rounded at the bottom; three-quarter length, tight at the upper part, cambric under-sleeves, very wide, and confined by a band at the wrist. Pardessus of the rich black silk called gros grain, lined with black gros de Naples: it is a pelisse of a three-quarter length; the corsage close to the waist; the skirt open from thence and square at the bottom. There are three pelerines also square, and a small falling collar; the corsage is trimmed with a lappel en caur, formed of black fringe with a heading of chenille. The bottom of each pelerine, and that of the pelisse, is trimmed with fringe with a similar heading, but the chenille only goes up the fronts. Red lilac satin capote, a moderately close shape; the drawings are crosswise; the garniture is composed of the same material, and ribbon to correspond. Sable muff. tine redingote; the corsage high at the back, MORNING VISITING DRESS.-Grey levanopens en cœur on the bosom, displaying an embroidered cambric chemisette; it is trimmed with down the front of the skirt in the form of a a pelerine lappel of sable fur, continued en tablier broken cone. Tight sleeves, finished with sable cuffs; they are short enough to display the cambric under-sleeve, with an embroidered cuff. Green velvet chapeau; a round shape, open over the forehead, and close at the sides. The garniture is ribbon to correspond. HALF-LENGTH FIGURES. No. 3. HOME DINNER DRESS.--Silver grey satin robe; a high close corsage, descending in a deep rounded point. Sleeves a three-quarter length, open to the elbow, but laced with cords and tassels; muslin under-sleeves. A rich cordelière encircles the waist. The head-dress is formed of a black lace lappet disposed in the cap style; it is put very far back on the head; the ends descend upon the shoulders; a band of rose ribbon crosses the summit of the head, and is disposed in coques at the sides. Embroidered DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. muslin collar and rose-coloured neck-knot. ADRIENNE DE M-. The mourning for Her late Majesty the Queen Dowager is very general; her death is indeed universally and most justly lamented; but as mourning at this season, and more especially a long continuance of it, must be extremely injurious to trade, our gracious Queen will, it is said, be pleased to shorten it; and, as the forms for dresses, chapeaux, &c., &c., must be the same, though they may be made black or grey, No. 4. HOME-DRESS.-Blue silk robe; velvet cazaweck of a deeper shade; it is cut in a novel form, with three gores on each side at the botom, the seams covered with fancy trimming. The corsage is made quite high, and rather close fitting behind. Sleeves a three-quarter length, gored at the bottom to correspond with the skirt. Black lace cap, a very small size, decorated with roses panaches and ruby velvet ribbon. No. 5. EVENING DRESS.-White satin robe; |