regular in its form, with a larger stone, entirely separating from the flesh. The tree is vigorous, of handsome form, and an abundant bearer the young wood is reddish: the leaves are oval, elliptical, attenuated at the base, pointed at the summit; with short petioles, little downy beneath, serrated on the edges. The trees were first disseminated from the establishment of Van Houtte, last autumn, at the high price of fifty francs (ten dollars) each; and if equal to the account given of it, it will prove a decided acquisition to our catalogue of plums. It is described in the Belgian catalogues as the ne plus ultra of plums. ART. IV. A few hints on Summer Pruning Pyramidal Pear Trees. By the EDITOR. WE have already, more than once, promised our readers the full details of the method of summer pruning pyramidal pear trees, as practised by ourselves on our specimen trees, of which we have upwards of a thousand, nearly one half of them in bearing, or rather would have been but for the severe winter, for many of them were literally covered with flower-buds in April. Not only have we lost the opportunity of fruiting many new sorts which have never yet borne in the country, but the opportunity, also, to test the accuracy of many doubtful sorts for at least one year, and, more than all, the chance of securing some accurate drawings of a few of our finest specimen trees in FULL FRUIT, that our pomological friends might have the pleasure of seeing a pyramidal tree five years old in the full vigor of growth and productiveness. These reverses, beyond our control, are our apology for not giving our article in the June number as we anticipated, for we had intended it should be as complete as it was our ability to make it. Not only did we intend to show how summer pruning should be performed, but to give a DAGUERREOTYPE illustration of a tree which had been so pruned, and in full bud, just as it would appear after the frosts of autumn had shorn it of its foliage. This we promise yet to do. And now, to give some aid to those who have addressed us many inquiries upon the subject, we propose making a few remarks, that they may lose no time in getting their trees into that preparatory state which shall render them abundantly fruitful another season. We shall take the trees as they now appear, the first week in July. If the soil is good and the trees healthy, and no summer pinching off has yet been done, the shoots will have grown from six to eighteen inches long, according to the kinds, soil, manure, &c. Finding them thus, we proceed to prune them: If the winter pruning was judiciously done,-and we have not room to speak of that now,--each shoot will have made two or more new shoots from the ends of the branches which were shortened back. If the last year's shoots are examined, it will be found that generally but few, if any, of the eyes have pushed, in consequence of the sap being directed to the young terminal shoots. If then this upward tendency of the sap is not checked, none of the buds below will break, and no fruit spurs be formed; for we take it for granted that it is well known the pear, with few exceptions, only bears upon spurs on the old wood. Pinching off the tips of the young wood has a tendency to make the eyes break, though not always, and this is the benefit to be derived from summer pruning; but merely nipping off the shoot will not do, for if, on some kinds, it is nipped off too soon or too short, the terminal eye breaks and goes on growing as before. Here is where the amateur is in error, for he imagines that all should be pinched off alike, and, to his great disappointment, often finds his labors of no effect. The information that is wanted to prevent this it is almost impossible to convey in an article; much may be learned, but constant practice and observation alone will ensure entire success. So far, however, as we can guide the cultivator we shall endeavor to do so. Supposing that there are three terminal shoots, as first stated; if the tree is moderately vigorous the first step is to nip off (or cut, if too hard to pinch with the thumb and finger) the two side shoots to two eyes, unless one or both are wanted to fill some vacancy in order to make a symmetrical head; at the same time the leading shoot may be allowed to go on growing for a week or two longer. In the course of a few days, if the eyes on the old wood are examined they will be found greatly swollen, and many of them ready to break; if from any cause this is not observed, then the terminal shoots should be nipped off,--not to two eyes,but merely the tip end, to check the growth; this will be found, in most cases, to effect the object; the eyes below will break and short spurs will be found. After a while the side shoots, as well as the main one, will break again, and, if the spurs are well filled, they may be allowed to grow some length; for, if stopped too quick, it will sometimes have the tendency to make the spurs,-which would, under most circumstances, form flower buds,-break again, and make merely a second growth. The eye must be kept upon the old wood, and, if the spurs do not fill up well, continue to check the growth of every branch not wanted; and, on the other hand, if the spurs show signs of pushing, at once discontinue pinching. Thus every branch should be gone carefully over. There is no set time for performing the operation; it should be done at any and all times, whenever the state of growth requires it; and this is affected by many causes. Generally, however, from July 1 to August 1, is the most important period. We have pruned some of the stronger growers and refractory sorts as early as June 5th, but they were upon the pear and grew more rapidly than upon the quince. Trees upon the quince do not require so much pruning as those on the pear. The main objects are, to keep the centre of the tree open to the free circulation of air, for without this the leaves will not keep up their elaborative process, by which the fruit buds only can be formed; to let the terminal shoots of all branches grow so as to form a perfectly symmetrical head, only pinching off the tips as they require it, and cutting back all which are not wanted, and to nip off or cut in all side shoots to two eyes. These operations duly attended to, with good judgment, cannot fail to accomplish that desired purpose,—the formation of an abundant supply of fruit buds. Once a week, at least, the amateur should go over his trees, from July 1 to September 1. ART. V. Notes on the American Aloe. By W. SAUNDERS, New Haven, Conn. There are few greenhouses where a specimen of the Agave Americana, or American Aloe, is not to be seen in some form or other, and, from the prevailing idea that it only flowers once in a century, it seldom experiences any thing but the roughest kind of treatment. It is undoubtedly a plant of very slow growth, and requires a long time to attain that size and strength necessary for flowering; but there is no reason whatever for believing that its period of inflorescence is only at the lapse of a century, as it entirely depends upon the treatment the cultivator is pleased to give it. Few plants present a nobler appearance when in bloom. The flower stem rises to a height of from twenty to thirty feet, thickly set with branches, which are covered with thousands of fully expanded flowers at one time, in which there is secreted a copious supply of nectar, having rather a disagreeable scent, and of an adhesive, gluey texture, and I will long remember the varnishing I received when inspecting one in full bloom, by unwittingly touching the flower stem. Such a floral beauty is of great interest, and no doubt there are numerous plants in this country that would flower with a few years' kindly attention and proper treatment; and the small amount of trouble they require, will be amply repaid if the cultivator have the pleasure of bringing them into bloom. I have succeeded in bringing them into flower under the following routine of culture, and I have no doubt others will find success equally certain by following something like the same course of treatment. If the plant has been a number of years in the same soil it will be advisable to turn it out of the pot or tub; examine the roots and clear away as much of the old effete soil as possible, without damaging any of the healthy roots. If the ball of earth has been considerably reduced, a pot or tub of the same size will probably answer for the purpose of repotting it, as it is not advisable to have a great mass of fresh soil about the roots at this time. They seem to thrive well in a mixture of rough, fibry healthy loam, and peat earth, well mixed and pulverized for some time previous to using. Before potting with this, add about one quarter part of broken charcoal and sand. The early part of spring is the best time for performing the operation. Clean pots or tubs should be used and well drained. This is of great importance, as the roots will soon decay if the water does not pass freely off. After potting, give a good watering and stand the plants in the warmest part of the greenhouse. Water must be very carefully applied for some time until the plant begins to make fresh roots. About the middle of June, they do better out of doors in an exposed situation, where they will have plenty of sun and heat, always observing that water is liberally supplied. It would be advantageous to plunge them in saw dust, tanners' bark, or some such material, for the roots are apt to get roasted when exposed to the intense rays of the sun; it would also save trouble in watering. Towards the end of the season gradually lessen the supply of water, and keep them all winter any where out of the reach of frost, and nearly dry. They will require no water at all unless subjected to a very arid atmosphere, under the influence of artificial heat. The following spring shift again, and continue the same course of treatment, and when, on account of their size, it is not convenient to shift, the annual growths should be encouraged by judicious applications of manure water; this, however, should never be applied unless the plant is in perfect health, and growing freely. New Haven, June, 1849. ART. VI. On the Cultivation of the Pansy. By Mr. TURNER, Chalvey, near Windsor. With Remarks by the EDITOR. THE pansy, in its present improved state, is one of our most beautiful plants; blooming nearly the whole season, and of the simplest treatment, it commends itself to the care of every amateur cultivator. With the hope of interesting our floral friends in the more extensive culture of this floral |