end, narrowing towards the crown: Skin, fair, smooth, rich deep-yellow, covered with a deep vermilion-red, finely and rather indistinctly striped, and thickly dotted over the surface with large, yellowish spots: Stem, short, about half an inch long, rather stout, and deeply inserted in a broad, smooth, rather open cavity: Eye, medium size, closed, and moderately sunk in a broad, open, furrowed basin; segments of the calyx rather long: Flesh, yellow, fine, crisp, and tender: Juice, abundant, pleasantly acid, sprightly, high flavored, and excellent: Core, medium size, nearly closed: Seeds, medium size, sharply pointed, brown. Ripe from October to January.

ART. IV. On the Cultivation of Grape Vines in Greenhouses. By JAMES HUTCHINSON. From the Journal of the London Horticultural Society.

In a previous volume, we have detailed at length, the treatment of grape vines in the greenhouse, as deduced from our own experience; to this article we would refer all who are about commencing the cultivation of the grape. But, as we are always glad to give our readers the results of the practice of successful grape growers, we now do so in the form of an article from the last number of the Journal of the London Horticultural Society, by Mr. Hutchinson. It is concise, plain, and free from all ambiguity,-which cannot be said of some of the articles in the same journal,—and commends itself by its simple detail of facts. In connection with what has previously appeared in our pages, it will materially aid the grape cultivator in the successful treatment of his vines.

Mr. Hutchinson's observations on the importance of covering the border, to preserve a terrestrial warmth, are less applicable to our climate than to that of England. Our clear sky,-dryer atmosphere,—and hot sun,—accomplishing what Mr. Hutchinson endeavors to do by thick covering. It is necessary to cover the border sufficiently to keep out all frost; but, beyond this, in greenhouse cultivation, where the grapes do not break till March, nothing more is required. In early vineries, where forcing is commenced as early as January,

the same covering Mr. Hutchinson recommends, would be most excellent; and the water-proof canvas we would suggest as far preferable to boards, which, we believe, are used by Mr. Allen, and some other grape growers, as the means of keeping the rains and snows of winter from chilling the border. His recommendation, of frequently stirring the border, to keep up the moisture during summer, should be strictly followed.

Mr. Hutchinson, it will be noticed, makes his borders of "fibrous turf, leaf soil, and horse dung;" leaving the carcasses of animals and other vile compounds, often recommended, to those who choose to use them; and we commend his practice to all who are about building graperies, and making new borders.-Ed.

The vine has been successfully cultivated in pine-stoves and vinehouses, in Britain, for many years, but its culture in the greenhouse has not been attended with equal success. This may proceed from various causes, such as the condition of the vine-border, improper temperature, arëation, &c. If the border be imperfectly drained, or the soil exhausted, the first thing to do is to remove the earth of the border to the depth of three feet, if on a sloping surface, but if flat, two feet will be quite sufficient. It should not be less than fifteen feet wide.

It is impossible to lay down an invariable rule as to the depth of soil which ought to be removed, in every case, but I wish it to be distinctly understood that it is not necessary to dig a deep pit, as some do, for the purpose of filling it up with a mass of materials through which the sun's heat will never penetrate; for, although such a border may be made of the best composition, it cannot be called a good border.

When the old soil is cleaned out, a good drain should be made along the front of the border.

In forming the new border, the bottom part should have a good slope, and should be covered, about ten inches deep, with rough stones. Over the stones, place a covering of furze, with the bushy side uppermost and the woody part under. A row of turf should be placed upon the furze, with the grassy side downward. This will form an effectual and a permanent drainage to every part of the border.

The new border should be composed of fibrous turf, leaf soil, and horse dung, which should be filled in to the depth of four feet, as it will finally subside to about three feet. It is unnecessary to prescribe the proportions to be used of the above ingredients, as that must depend on circumstances. Leaf soil is, generally, a scarce substance; and therefore, should the loam be of a strong quality, it should be mixed with light soil, as much of a vegetable nature as possible, keeping in view the principle that the composition should be sufficiently porous.

If the old vines have been growing in a wet soil, or a great portion of their roots decayed or rotten, I would recommend, in planting them, to lay a portion of the stem across the border, and peg it down with strong pegs, about six inches deep. As to what length ought to be laid down in this manner, that will depend on the state of the old vine. The lower part of neglected vines is generally bare of young wood, perhaps half-way up the main stem. Some of the spurs beyond that, may even be exhausted. I would, therefore, plant so as to have a good fresh shoot at the entrance of the vine into the house, or at least, at the foot of the rafter. This shoot should be cut down to two or three eyes, and if all go on well, it will grow from twenty to thirty feet the first season. If young vines are required for planting, good strong vines should be procured from a respectable nursery, and planted about the beginning of March. The roots should be well spread out, and three feet of the stem laid down horizontally, six inches deep in the ground.

The sorts most suitable for a greenhouse are,-Black Hamburgh, Black Prince, Black Prince Hamburgh, White Sweet

water.

Temperature of the border.-In No. 112 of Loudon's Gardeners' Magazine, I have directed the vine border to be covered, a fortnight previous to the commencement of forcing, with horse dung of the best quality, to the depth of ten or twelve inches. I would still recommend the same method, or something similar, in every case in which the border has been uncovered, or insufficiently covered during winter. But, as the successful cultivation of all plants, especially exotics, depends so much on terrestrial climate, I now prefer to have the border covered in the autumn, so as to prevent the escape

of the heat contained in it at that season. It fortunately happens that I have now sound data to proceed upon, in giving directions in this matter. The following returns are taken from Mr. Thompson's Tables of Ground Temperature at Chiswick, which will apply, with little variation, to the greater part of Britain and Ireland:

:

I would advise, therefore, that the border should be covered with a light covering of dry leaves, about the end of September, for the temperature of the border will fall considerably in October, as will be seen from the above table. A covering of water-proof canvas should also be applied to carry off heavy rains. As soon as a sufficient quantity of leaves can be collected, they should be laid on about eighteen inches thick. Where leaves cannot be had sufficiently long, dung or fern might be used instead. But, whatever material is applied, it must not be forgotten that protection from the rain is indispensable, or the heat of the border will be exceedingly variable.

The covering should be removed about the middle of May, when the border should be forked over. It should be frequently stirred with the Dutch hoe, during summer, but especially after heavy rains. If the border is managed in this manner, it will seldom require any watering if situated in the western part of Britain or Ireland. In the eastern part of this island, the watering of the border should be attended to when necessary, but especially at the commencement of the last swelling of the grapes. The water should have been warmed by exposure to the air.

Temperature of the house.-If the house were covered with water-proof canvas at night, during frosty weather, very little fire heat would be requisite, and vines and all plants kept in the greenhouse, much benefited. In winter the thermometer should never exceed 40° when the assistance of artificial heat is required. About the beginning of March, when the buds of the vines are well swelled, the heat should be raised to 50° if dull weather, and 60° or 650 during the day, if clear

weather. This temperature will be advantageous to geraniums, fuchsias, &c., at this season. When the mornings are frosty in this month, the thermometer in the greenhouse is generally down to 45° or 46° with me. I have had it as low as this even when the grapes were in flower, and I have never observed that they sustained any injury by this low temperature. As the season advances, of course the heat ought to be increased to 550 or 60° at night, and to 70°, 75°, or 80° during the day. 500 and 55° at night, may be safely taken as a general rule, for the first and second month's growth. Air will be required, both night and day, at all times when fire heat is necessary. In mild weather, in winter, I give plenty of air during the day, and a small portion at night also.

It

No front air will be required in the early part of the season, unless the weather is very mild. In summer, when the nights are warm, a small portion of air should be left on all night at two lights. If the temperature be low in the morning, shut the house, and give no air till eight o'clock. It might be sooner or later, according to the situation of the house. is impossible to lay down rules as to the time when air ought to be given, or the quantity requisite at all times, nor is it necessary, for this department of the business is sure to be best performed by the person who keeps general principles constantly in view, and not by him who is entirely guided by written directions. It should always be remembered, that heat should accompany light, and coolness darkness.

Pruning. I formerly recommended the long system of pruning vines as best adapted to late vineries; but, as the vines must be confined to the rafters in a greenhouse, in this case I would advise the adoption of the spur system. A chief objection to this mode of pruning is, that in the course of time the spurs get long and ragged; but if the border is in tolerably good condition, and covered as I have directed, the vines will push vigorously from various parts of the old wood of the spur, which may, therefore, be shortened as opportunities offer. It is unnecessary to enter further into this department of the subject, as the summer pruning and the preparation of young vines for different plans of training, are generally understood by gardeners.