established by the florists' test book "The Properties of Florists Flowers and Plants." Let all who take an interest in genuine floriculture, give us accounts of all such societies, and their shows, with the names of the winning flowers, we shall be glad to publish them, for they are the best guides to persons who want to buy and grow winning flowers; whereas, to publish the doings of the exhibitors at the great places, where the showers' names are put on the productions, that the judges may know who they award the prizes to, is to assist in the jugglery that ruined the first Horticultural Society, and will, in time, reduce the South Kensington concern to mere pleasure gardens, in competition with Cremorne.

THE system of poisoning birds will end in something very serious, unless checked; and when some partaker of the poisoned victims, whose owner sets upon it a higher value, brings an action against the poisoner for damages, the barbarians will begin to think the strewing poisoned grain is rather a hazardous game. If the birds wish to take toll of a newly sown cornfield, and the owner objects, let him employ the means of frightening them for a few days, and not risk the killing of a neighbour's dog or cat by providing poisoned birds. Such barbarism is the offspring of selfishness and ignorance. Many years ago-say twenty to twenty-five-we made strong appeals in the "Gardeners' Gazette" for the farmer's best friends, the rooks, and not without its good effects, for however much they may be inclined to go shares with the farmer in his corn, they are, without exception, the most wholesale destroyers of the cockchafer, grub, and sundry other ground pests. The senseless war now carried on against small birds, threatening destruction to our feathered songsters and domestic animals, which devour the poisoned birds, has roused a host of more sensible men, who are loud in their condemnation of such brutal ignorance, and will see whether the law permits a selfish lout to lay poison about his premises, and endanger the lives of cats and dogs valued by their owners, but whose nature it is to devour all the feathered tribe within their reach; for, be it known, the poisoned victims do not die upon the spot, but drop after a while upon other people's premises, so that, by his act, he turns the bird to the poison he prepares. The birds go he knows not where; and it is the secondary, but much the most important evil, that may strew his neighbours' grounds with still more tempting baits to kill his favourite and faithful dog, or the dog that keeps his barn clear of mice, or perhaps the children of some poor cotter, who believe they have a prize in a dead but fresh bird, and eat it, little dreaming it will be their last meal. "Punch" and the "Daily Telegraph" have so belaboured the wooden-headed farmers, that if they can read-which is doubtful-they will think twice before they again commit themselves to strewing poison about their premises.

MORE ABOUT THE AURICULA. A WRITER, who is half a century behind the age, has presumed to give us a lesson on the proper mode of showing the Auricula, imitating the young gentleman who had to "teach his grandmamma how to suck eggs." The Metro

politan Society of Florists and Amateurs settled long ago (1832), that not less than seven pips could be shown for competition. "The Properties of Flowers and Plants" has been the foundation of all good showing ever since that time; and for the edification of the writer in question, who seems to be about on a par with all who write on Floriculture in the Chronicle, I will quote a passage from "The Gardener and Practical Florist," complaining that some unprincipled writer had garbled and rewritten part of "The Properties of the Auricula," and that the Editor had published it as original in the Chronicle-one of those shabby tricks which respectable journalists universally condemn. The law of

showing Auriculas is thus laid down, after showing what the individual pips should be:"OF THE SINGLE PLANT. "1. The stem should be strong, round, upright, and elastic, well supporting itself, and from four to seven inches high. 2. The foot-stalks of the pips should be so proportioned as to length and strength, that all the pips may have room to show themselves, and form a close, compact truss, NOT LESS THAN SEVEN IN NUMBER, without lapping over each other, and all alike in colour and property.

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"3. The foliage should be healthy and well grown, and almost cover the pot."

The shuffling scribbler who fancied that by rewriting the original ideas he could avoid the penalties of piracy, gave the following, which, like a score other piracies, was published in the Chronicle:

"The foot-stalks of the pips should be strong, and of such a length as will allow the flowers to open without one overlaying another, the whole forming a compact and globular head of well-expanded flowers, equal in size and similar in properties."

(A diagram accompanying the article shows the seven pips.)

There is not a florist of the least standing who is not acquainted with the little volume called "The Properties of Flowers," and who does not know that seven pips are the least that are admitted to form a truss for exhibition. Yet the writer in the Chronicle of the 19th ult., who follows in your wake in upholding Auricula Shows, makes the discovery that "a good truss and a well-furnished plant should be a sine qua non." Why, as I have shown, these points have long been provided for by the rules of the Metropolitan Society, by "The Properties of Flowers and Plants," and by every work on Practical Floriculture. VINDEX.

DAHLIAS FOR SHOW.

WE have never been advocates for covering up Dahlia blooms, although where vermin prevail, or we are near a dusty road or a smoky atmosphere, we must admit the necessity. One of our earliest and best methods was to form a sort of stool or table, with a slit from the edge to the centre, to admit the stem to pass them, to fill the slit with something to prevent vermin from passing through it, supporting the bud sufficiently above the table, to prevent the lower petals from touching it as they open, and covering with a flowerpot or a glass that will set close all round. The glass or pot to be used as we may want light or darkness, protects the flower from dust, soot, or earwigs. Some will support this table with one leg stuck into the ground, two are better. We remember seeing at Norwich, many years ago, a cover like a flower-pot without a bottom. There was a groove into

THIS is a family of bulbous-rooted flowers, of noble structure, with blooms of immense size compared with the plant, and forming one of the most showy tribes in cultivation. The species are few; but from the circumstance of its being taken in hand by florists, and crossed in every conceivable | direction, the seedling varieties are in proportion to the originals as fifty to one, and the cross-bred varieties are far more beautiful than the distinct species. A. formosissima (Jacobean lily), also called Sprekelia formosissima, which is imported annually in large quantities, is a dwarf kind, as unlike all the rest of the family as may be; it has neither the habit nor the form of the others; the flower has narrow petals, very thick, and of peculiar form, while the others are funnel-shaped, more or less acute. This species should be potted directly the bulbs come over, in loam, dung, and sand, burying half the bulb in the soil, and placed in a common hot-bed such as cucumbers grow in; they will not be long before they commence growing and blooming, producing flowers of the richest crimson; exposing the entire inner surface of the petals; these last some time in perfection, if removed to the conservatory or the dwelling house. The other kinds are stove or greenhouse plants; but all do well in a stove. If, when they have opened their flowers, they are gently reduced to the greenhouse temperature, they last in flower some time. All these plants require, is to rest after they have perfected their bloom; some turn out the bulbs, and let them dry on a shelf. If, however, water is withheld from the time the bloom declines, and the pots are placed in the dry, it is just as well as taking them from their pots; but when they begin to grow in spring, which they will do without watering, the ball ought to be turned out whole, and placed in a larger pot, water supplied, and the plant set to work in the warinest part of the house, and near the light. If the bulbs are taken out, which will be required once in two or three years, let the leaves all turn yellow before they are disturbed; they may then be shaken out, so as to get rid of all the soil, and their roots may be allowed to dry; but except once in two or three years, this violence need not be done; and they will always bloom better the second than the first year after planting. The principal species are, A. aulica, equestris; Forbesi formosissima, fulgida; Kermisina reginæ, retinorvia rutila, striatifolia, stylosa (or maranensis), vittata, and subbarbata; and by crossing these, hundreds of really beautiful varieties, and thousands good for nothing, have been raised. Those who desire to cultivate these should see collections in bloom, and buy from them only; for although we could mention twenty handsome hybrids by name, there are plenty of bad ones under the same titles. The seed may be sown in pots, in the stove or hot-bed, pricked out an inch apart as soon as possible, unless they have been sown at these distances, and then kept growing the first season. After this, change these pots every year till they flower. The species and varieties are perpetuated by offsets from the bulbs.

STANDARD CURRANTS AND GOOSEBERRIES.-I can see no good reason why gooseberry and currant trees should be allowed to occupy so much of the ground room as they do, and why they should not be grown as standards on a single stem as high as they may be required. If the heads of these trees were a few feet from the ground, how much room would be saved? Why, the entire width of the path on each side, for as the stem would occupy no more room than a piece of stick, even when the heads were three or four feet across, a row would not occupy more than a yard in width. Whereas, if the three or four feet of bush were close to the ground, there would be a path of eighteen inches occupied on each

side all the gathering time, which if they are properly gathered, would be some weeks. To make these standards, tie up a main stem, which should be strongest that a cutting makes, and remove all shoots from each side of it, and continue this until it is as tall as you wish it to be, and four eyes above it. This, in currants, should be two to four feet, because the under part of a currant tree is smallest, and it spreads out as it rises, fan-like; but in a gooseberry it should be four to six feet, because that droops and spreads below, like an umbrella; let the top be taken off, and the three or four eyes immediately under it grow, all below them must be rubbed off the instant they push, not only when the top is taken off, but all the while it is growing from the cutting. These four shoots may be shortened to three eyes each, at the end of the first season of their growth, and the next year they will throw out enough branches to form the head, and enable you to cut out some of them that are too close; the head would require to be treated the same as a bush. But whether people have patience to make a standard high enough to stand under or not, it is quite certain that if they were on stems a foot high, the ground would be less encumbered, and more easily hoed, the fruit would be cleaner, as the rain could not splash up the dirt to it, and they would be more free from ground vermin, as the stems could easily be fortified against their approach. — Glenny, 1843. A HINT. If private gentlemen and amateur growers would consult more with each other, or contrive in their respective neighbourhoods to have meetings, which involved no expense, they would learn more in a year than they do now in seven. Societies might be formed, with no other object than periodical conversations and discussions among the members, and these conversations, and discussions might be promoted by the production at the meetings, of any plants, flowers, fruits, or vegetables that any of the members might have in their possession in a state of showing. Simple common productions well grown, and therefore fine of their kind, subjects in flower of kinds not often bloomed, others rare or scarce, or new, all tend to gratifiy those who have not got them, and naturally raise discussions on the mode of treatment, the nature of the plant, the places where and the period when, as well as the persons by whom they were introduced. placing the subscription to such societies on the lowest possible scale, humble, but excellent florists-frugal, but clever men,

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and inexperienced, but enthusiastic cultivators, would be enabled to join it; it would be morally impossible to attend such a meeting a single evening without learning something.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

G. A. A.-Many people leave the wood in the bud; and young beginners, if they take it out, drag the bud with it, so that to outward appearance the bud may take, but the germ being dragged out it cannot grow. We have budded some hundreds and left the wood in, and a blind man would be glad to see the difference.

G. S.-If correspondents would only enclose a directed envelope when they ask questions, we should be able to answer by return of post; now it is too late to be of use, but "yes." WE cannot, at short notice, undertake to travel, or be two days from home. T. H. had better alter the day of show, or he will run into half-a-dozen. Another thing, we should not answer the purpose as judge. We never suffer dictation. We were only lookers on last time; but we saw that the best men won; the best productions did not.

T. C.-A bad season; upon the whole, Dahlias will, however, be early and-where proper care has been taken-fine. AN OLD FRIEND.-All very good in theory; "if" and "if" may be well put in. The fable of the hound who had lost his teeth is an answer. The men whom we raised from the lowest rank, and alone brought them into notice, are the worst enemies we have.

WE really wish, and earnestly, too, that readers and advertizers would settle with their Newsmen and the Publisher promptly. It would make an enormous difference to them, while to our friends it can make none. Mr. Barratt, of Wakefield, may be unable; if so, he should tell us.

The Midland Florist.

NEW SERIES.-VOL. XVI. No. 9.-SEPT., 1862.

THOMSON ON THE VINE UNDER GLASS. Mr. THOMSON, gardener to the Duke of Buccleugh, has just published a practical treatise on the grape vine. There have been so many and such silly things written upon this subject, that a book free from the speculative fancies of theorists is quite refreshing; and we have no doubt that Mr. Thomson, who is a successful cultivator of this delicious fruit, and forces it for all seasons, has founded his treatise upon his own practice. His remarks on the shanking of grapes will be read with interest. The causes, he considers, are numerous: the roots in a cold, wet subsoil; in a rich heavy one; over-cropping; red spider on the foliage. The former causes suggest the only remedy-lifting the roots, and changing the soil; the latter can be, and ought to be avoided. We must quote a few of his remarks.

"In the front rank of these stands the disease known to gardeners as shanking.' This great enemy to grapegrowing makes its appearance just as the grapes are changing from their acid to their saccharine state, and it arrests the transformation at once, and the berry remains perfectly acid, and becomes shrivelled in a short time. All that the eye can detect in the case is, the decay of the little stem or shank of the berry; and what appears strange, it more frequently attacks grapes that are not forced early than those that are. Many able physiologists have attempted to explain its cause and cure, though, as yet, with but little success; and it is with diffidence that I enter upon a path that has been trod by such able men. I will attempt to point out first, what I think its principal cause; I say principal, because I consider that there may be several concurrent causes aiding the chief one, such as over-cropping, destruction of the foliage by the red spider, or any other cause; and in the second place, to point out what I think the most likely remedy.

"I will describe the circumstances under which shanking is most generally met with. The most frequent of these is when the roots of the vines have descended into a cold wet subsoil; but it is also met with where the roots are not

down in the subsoil, but when they are growing vigorously, towards autumn, especially, in a rich, and what many would term a well-made border, where they received plenty of liquid manure, when the foliage in the house is fine, the wood strong, the young roots, if sought for, will be found pushing along in the rich earth in September, like the points of a goose's quill. I have known the appearances I have now described, to be all present where the border was paved under the roots with stone pavement, yet there was scarcely a bunch of grapes in the house that had a dozen unshanked berries upon it. I must now describe what I consider took place in the case on hand. The vines made great, strong, young roots in this rich soil late in autumn; they were not short, branching, fibry roots, but soft, like the roots of some bulb; and by the time the action of the leaves had ceased, these roots were anything but ripe, and they all perished during the winter rains, back to the old stem-roots from which they sprang. The vines, nevertheless, have a given amount of stored-up sap in them, though they have lost their active roots, and they are pruned and started, say the following February. While this stored-up sap lasts, they grow vigorously enough; but a period arrives when it is exhausted, and the new comes but slowly, for the old roots that remain are just beginning, through the action

of the foliage, to start into life a fresh set of young ones, that are able as yet to supply but little. This takes place when the berry is passing through the stony period of its existence, always a crisis with fruit of any kind, and the consequence is, a thorough failure of the crop from shanking, either resulting directly from want of proper nourishment at this important period, or from some other hidden cause which springs from this want. The crop of fruit is lost as thus described, but the vines seem in good health, and they fate of their predecessors; and so the round goes on. make strong roots towards the autumn, again to share the

There

"The proper remedy for such a state of things-and I have never known it fail where over-cropping was avoided, and the necessary care bestowed on the vines in every other respect-is to raise the roots, and remove the rich damp soil of the border, replacing it with the compost already recomLet me add, that if the locality is a wet one, I would double mended in this treatise, and relay the roots carefully in it. the amount of burned clay and lime rubbish, and diminish the dung in making up the compost. The class of roots that will be formed in this relatively poorer border, will differ widely from those formed in the richer one. will be much more numerous, smaller, and woody branching in every direction, permeating its whole mass. They will ripen before the autumn rains set in, and in such dry, open, and light soil, will survive the winter, and be ready for action the following season. If it is objected that such a compost is too poor to produce heavy crops of grapes, I reply, that it is easy, during the growing season, to give one or two good waterings with liquid manure. What is wanted is, a host of healthy, hungry mouths. It is easy to feed them when they exist, but when they are dead and gone, no feeding can avail; for be it remarked, that if even the points of the young roots or spongelets are decayed, absorption of sap cannot take place, to any extent, till they are restored, and this, in a rich cold damp border, is not an carly process with the vine. On this subject, Dr. Lindley remarks: It is not by the coarse old woody roots that the absorption of food is most energetically carried on, but by the youngest parts, and especially by the spongioles.'"

How frequently do we find that over-excitement tioned our readers against over-feeding. How many brings with it many evils. We have frequently caufine old vines do we know, that were planted without any preparation of the border in the natural loam of the place, and which bear abundantly, and have for many years borne great crops, which, when properly reduced in the number of bunches, and judiciously thinned, have been fine and well ripened. Rich borders produce fine grapes, but everything highly excited is liable to disease, in the same way as luxurious living will upset Mr. Thomson treats upon rust, the human frame. mildew, worts, air roots, red spider, &c.; but it would be unfair to quote the articles. We shall, however, take a portion of his introduction.

"The varieties of grape vines may be said to be endless. The French Government, on one occasion, made a collection of 1400 varieties in a nursery at the Luxembourg, and this was supposed to be only a moiety of those in cultivation in France alone. It is, however, no part of my present object to refer further to the growth of the vine on the Continent. I shall, therefore, confine myself to the aspect of it which concerns our own country. And though there is good evidence that the Romans introduced vineyards into Britain, shall pass over the out-door culture of the plant, merely and made considerable quantities of wine from them, I remarking, that in these days of cheap glass, it is a most unsatisfactory investment of both time and skill to attempt its culture except under glass."

The preparation of vine borders appears to be rational. Hoare recommends the entire carcases of

animals, which we think would awaken the Sanitary Commissioners, for we fancy that a dead horse, cow, or pig, every few yards along a vine border, would, on a hot summer's day, give out an odour inferior to Sweet Peas or Mignonette. Had he recommended them to be cut up into chops and steaks, or even mincemeat, we could have understood him; but as "dead animals of every description-dogs, cats, pigs, &c., that have died" (they will not do if they are living)-"may be then disposed of, in a most advantageous manner, by depositing them in their entire state in the vine border." We think Mr. Hoare had no nose, and that many persons would prefer the fragrance of Roses or Violets; and we feel much obliged to Mr. Thomson for showing us that vines can be grown, and fine grapes produced, without the introduction of carrion. But Mr. Hoare would have us believe that the vine is a very nasty feeder, and that all who live within the precincts of a vinery must suffer the martyrdom of perpetual stink. Besides burying whole carcases, the effluvia from which must escape, he recommends for top dressing, nightsoil! fish!! stable manure, and the excrements of every description of birds and animals!!! All these things together, or any one of them, laid on thick as a top dressing in the month of August, must be very desirable to those who love to inhale the sweets of a garden. Mr. Thomson has rendered great service in showing that such filthy means are perfectly unnecessary. His book presents a fine contrast to the dirty notions of Mr. Hoare, and the egregious fallacies of Mr. Roberts, who in their day misled many young men, and some old ones; and all comes from men writing according to their fallacious calculations. We have known an old woman to bury a dead cat at the root of a vine; and perhaps Mr. Hoare has seen the advantage of it; then he has remembered his "rule of three," and calculated that, "if a dead cat does a little good, a dead horse, according to his size, would do two hundred times as much;" and thus satisfied himself that dead carcases are good for vines, and that we cannot have too much of a good thing. These addle-brained gardeners make capital authors; all they want is buyers for their very clever works. If it were not for the practical men, who now and then, like Mr. Thomson, set things a little straight, goodness knows where gardening would be, or what would become of horticulture.

THE CONSERVATORY.

By this time of the year most of the plants will have made their growth, and it should now be the principal aim to get this growth well matured; the treatment which is most conductive to this end, is to gradually reduce the supply of moisture to the roots, and also as far as possible, that contained in the atmosphere; to discontinue gradually, likewise, the shading which has been employed, and to allow the ventilation to be as free and perfect as may be compatible with the welfare of such plants in bloom as can be obtained for decorative purposes. The permanent plants must now be less liberally watered, and they should, if possible, by the gradual withholding of water, be brought to a state of rest, as they will have to submit to some degree of excitement in winter, when the house is kept rather

warmer than ordinary for the sake of the forced flowers which are brought into it.

Plants in pots require to be regularly supplied, and the quantity will yet hardly bear to be reduced. Those in bloom always require rather over than under an average supply for the season of the year. When, however, there may happen to be stove plants amongst them, these will require rather less than usual in a low temperature. Syringing will not be required, except for a plant occasionally here and there. It is preferable during this month to commence the practice of watering only in the morning. Look well to the plants of differents kinds intended to produce blooms through the autumn and winter, and see that they are kept in a growing state. Chrysanthemums, Cinerarias, Pelargoniums, Salvias, Heliotropes and plants of this habit, should have their roots attended to, and if they require it they should get a shift; but it is advisable not to grow them on too freely, as this would rather check their flowering.

The Pelargoniums, Salvias, and Heliotropes, during all the earlier stages of their growth, should have their young shoots frequently stopped, so as to induce nice bushy plants, which then produce plenty of flowers. By this time the stopping of them must be discontinued, and the plants should get less water, so as to be matured and rested before they require to develop their flowers. Chrysanthemums should be rather limited in their growth, or they will get too luxuriant, and not flower freely. Cinerarias should be potted rather more liberally, and grown on freely; the larger they are grown, the more blooms are produced, and, consequently, the more showy are the plants. Sweet briar, Aloysia citriodora (the lemon scented Verbena); several Pelargoniums, as the rose-scented, lemon-scented, nutmeg-scented &c. The Prince of Orange is a favourite variety; China Roses, Heliotropes &c. are the class of plants referred to. Mignonette and the Mimulus moschata (musk plant) require different management, and may both be kept growing in pits, the former being obtained from seeds, and the latter from cuttings. Look out for the earliest supplies of Dutch bulbs, for potting, and get those potted which are intended for forcing, as early as possible. It is a mistaken notion to delay the purchasing and planting of these; early purchasers secure the best roots, and early planting secures the best plants and flowers, provided the treatment is proper. Where the roof of the conservatory is tolerably close, the upper part of the house will be rather warm; this affords an excellent situation for some of the intermediate class of climbers, which require rather more than greenhouse temperature, while the hardier plants do better if confined rather more to the lower and cooler parts of the house. Of the former class, some of the best are the following-Mandevilla suaveolens, Stephanotis floribunda, and Schubertia graveolens, which have white flowers, and are powerfully and agreeably scented, especially the two first. Passiflora kermesina, with crimson flowers, is also a suitable plant; and so are various other Passifloras. For the lower part of the house, the Kennedyas, Zichyas, Harden bergias, Physolobiums, Sollyas and the Marianthus are suitable. Marianthus cæruleopunctatus has light blue flowers; Sollyas linearis, blue; Hardenbergia maerophylla and Comptoniana, purple; Physolobium carinatium, Zichya