lettering to be worked through the blanket either by hand or machine, using a yarn composed of the same material, shade, and permanency of dye as that of the border. The style of letters to be the same as those upon the sealed standard sample.

Official color tests. The following are the official tests which the materials shall be subjected to during the inspection:

Test 1. Samples or skeins of the yarn, warp, and filling from which the blankets are made (about 20 yards of each yarn) shall be thoroughly scoured, then boiled for ten minutes in a solution composed of eighty grains of ivory soap to one pint of water. Test 2. A second sample shall be taken and boiled ten minutes in a solution containing ten grains of dry carbonate of soda to one pint of water.

Test 3. An exposure to the weather (roof test) for thirty days.

Test 4. Soaking twenty-four hours in lactic acid, specific gravity 1.21 U. S. P. Temperature about 70° F.

Test 5. Soaking twenty-four hours in a solution composed of three drams (avoirdupois) of citric acid to two fluid ounces of water. Temperature about 70° F. To correctly judge results, the specimens that have been subjected to the above tests must be washed in a weak solution of ivory soap and tepid warm water, and no greater changes of color must appear than would be shown under similar tests made on the sealed standard sample.

Workmanship.-The blanket to be manufactured in a thoroughly workmanlike manner, well fulled, thoroughly cleaned, free from crocking, evenly and thoroughly gigged. The ends to be secured from raveling by gimp and an elastic overlocked stitch, as shown upon the sealed standard sample; the gimp and thread employed to conform closely in shade to either the border or the body of the blanket. Details of workmanship or any other points not enumerated in these specifications to be executed in conformity with the sealed standard sample.

Adopted April 23, 1906, in lieu of specifications of August 25, 1905 (No. 771), which are hereby canceled.

C. F. HUMPHREY, Quartermaster-General, U. S. Army.

NOTE. A sample of undyed clean wool, also samples of wools after mixing to produce shade, as well as a skein of yarn, warp, and filling, shall be delivered to the contracting officer with the first delivery of goods and at other regular periods during the life of the contract, as desired.

In one corner of each blanket there should be neatly stitched, with not less than eleven stitches to the inch, a piece of standard label cloth 2 inches by 1 inches on which shall be printed, in indelible ink, the name of the contractor, date of contract, and name of depot, leaving a blank space at bottom for the name of the inspector.

SPECIFICATIONS FOR O. D. WOOLEN SERVICE BREECHES, MOUNTED AND

FOOT.

WAR DEPARTMENT,

OFFICE OF THE QUARTERMASTER-GENERAL. Pattern.-U. S. Army model, cut full at seat and thigh, to fit close at knee and below, with an outlet on outside seam from knee down. Waistband cut on. To have a slash in each leg from just below knee cap to bottom and just inside the center, with a facing on outside and a tongue on under side. Allowance of of an inch made for all seams. All patterns will be furnished by the Quartermaster's Department. No piecing, skimping, or altering in any way whatever will be permitted.

Materials. To be made of O. D. kersey, khaki, khaki-colored corset jean, with strength test of 100 pounds to the inch in the warp and 50 pounds in the filling; 4-inch O. D. cotton tape, linen laces, buttons, buckles, hook and eye, eyelets, cotton and linen thread and sewing silk. All as shown in the standard sample.

Seams and stitching.--All seams and stitching to be made with single or twin needle machines. The seat and inseams of mounted breeches to be taped above and below the reenforce. All as shown in the standard sample.

Waistband lining.-Of khaki, with an extension piece at back to form a stay for buckle straps and back-belt loops. All as shown in the standard sample.

Belt loops. To be of sufficient length to admit a 13-inch belt, placed on breeches opposite the suspender buttons, neatly turned in and securely stitched to the body of the breeches. All as shown in the standard sample.

Pockets. Of khaki, two top and one inserted watch pocket. To be properly placed, faced with O. D. kersey, and neatly bar tacked. All as shown in the standard sample. The bar tacking may be either hand or machine work.

Buckle straps. To be lined with corset jean and to have a white metal buckle, of style and quality shown. To be properly placed and securely stitched on. All as shown in the standard sample.

Flies.-To be securely tacked at base. Right or button side to be lined with khaki, neatly turned in. Left or buttonhole side to be neatly lined with O. D. corset jeans, taped and tacked between holes. Buttons and buttonholes to be properly spaced. All as shown in the standard sample.

Reenforce.-To be properly placed, neatly turned in, and double stitched. The bottom parts to be quilted with six rows of stitching. All as shown in the standard sample.

Slashes. To be faced on outside with O. D. kersey, double stitched, with tongue of O. D. kersey, bound with tape on the under side, securely caught in and fastened by the stitching of the facing. The slash, set with eyelets, not more than inch apart, to be closed by lacing. All as shown in the standard sample.

Buttons. Of vegetable ivory, 24 lignes in diameter; six on inside of waistband, properly spaced, and four or five on the fly, according to the size of the breeches. To be securely sewn on by hand, tightly wrapped to form a shank, and ends well fastened off. All as shown in the standard sample.

Buttonholes.-Breeches of 35-inch waist measure or less to have four buttonholes, those of 36-inch waist measure or more to have five buttonholes properly spaced in the fly. To be worked over a No. 9 gimp and securely bar tacked. All as shown in the standard sample.

Hook and eye.-Flat nickeled brass hook and eye in middle of waistband, taped and fastened by machine stitching. All as shown in the standard sample.

Eyelets. To be of brass, celluloid coated, of size and color shown in the standard sample.

Laces. To be of braided linen, not less than 53 inches in length, metal tipped, and of size, quality, and color shown in the standard sample.

Tape.-Tongues and bottom of legs bound half and half with 4-inch tape, as shown in standard sample.

Thread.-Silk thread to be used for all stitching and buttonholes, of quality and color shown in the standard sample. Letter "A" for machine stitching and "B" for buttonholes. Size of silk for buttonholes and stitching may vary according to machines used. In every case standard buttonholes and stitching required. Linen thread to be used for sewing on buttons. Cotton under thread used in stitching of waist and lining. All as shown in the standard sample.

Workmanship and finish. The breeches to be clean, well made, and pressed in a workmanlike manner, and show no raw edges on outside nor defective stitching in any part of the garment. To be like or equal to the standard sample in all particulars. Marking and size ticket.-Each pair of breeches to have a printed ticket, giving size, waist, and length measurements, sewed on outside of waistband between the second and third belt loops on right side. To have sewed on under side of right pocket a piece of standard label cloth showing name of contractor, date of contract, and depot in indelible ink, with a blank space at bottom for the inspector's name,

Foot breeches.-To conform to the above in all respects except that there will be no reenforce; the seat seams will be taped throughout and to have stay pieces at the crotch. All as shown in the standard sample.

NOTE. A variation of inch in the waist measurements and length of breeches will be permitted.

Adopted June 24, 1907, in lieu of specifications of September 26, 1904 (No. 698), which are canceled.

C. F. HUMPHREY, Quartermaster-General, U. S. Army.

SPECIFICATIONS FOR COTTON KHAKI SERVICE BREECHES, MOUNTED AND FOOT.

WAR DEPARTMENT,

OFFICE OF THE QUARTERMASTER-GENERAL. Pattern.-U. S. Army model, cut full at seat and thigh, to fit close at knee and below, with a 1-inch outlet on outside seam from knee down. Waistband cut on. To have an opening in each leg from just below knee cap to bottom and just inside the center. A reenforce on outside of this opening and tongue on under side. Allowance of of an inch made for all seams. No piecing, skimping, or altering in any way whatever will be permittted.

Material.-U. S. Army khaki; Breeches, reenforce or saddle piece, belt straps, waistband lining, fly, fly lining and staying, pockets, slash reenforce, and tongue and buckle straps.

Seams. All seams except the seat and inside seams of mounted breeches, to be lapped and double stitched of an inch apart. Twin-needle machine may be used. The seat and inside seams of mounted breeches will be opened, stitched each side, and taped above and below the saddle piece, all as shown in the standard sample.

Pockets. Two straight or corner pockets and one watch pocket. Corner pockets to be deep enough, at least, to bring the lower corner on a line with the fly-tack. Watch pocket to be placed in right-hand pocket bearer, bound in. Corners of all pockets to be bar-tacked.

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Belt loops.-About inch wide and sufficiently long to admit a 13-inch belt. be stitched and sewed on outside, as shown in standard sample. Six in number and placed opposite suspender buttons.

Buckle straps. To be stitched and sewed on, and provided with a white metal buckle, all as on standard sample.

Buttonholes.-Breeches of 35-inch waist measure, or less, to have four machineworked buttonholes; those of 36-inch waist measure, or more, to have five machineworked buttonholes equally spaced in the fly. To be worked over a No. 9 gimp and to be securely locked at ends with a bar-tack.

Buttons.-U. S. Army standard white metal; six suspender sewed on inside of waistband, and four or five fly buttons, according to the size of breeches. The buttons may be machine sewed, with not less than twenty-two stitches crossing the center, eleven each way, ends to be securely locked on under side.

Hook-and-eye.-Flat white metal hook-and-eye in middle of waistband, taped and fastened by machine stitching.

of an

Opening or slash in legs.--To have a reenforce on outside, double stitched, inch apart, with tongue on under side all stitched on as shown in the standard sample. The slash set with eyelets not more than of an inch apart and not less than nor more than of an inch from the edge, slash to be closed by lacing. Eyelets. To be of brass, celluloid coated, of size and color shown in standard sample.

Laces. To be of braided linen, not less than 54 inches in length, metal tipped, and of size, quality, and color shown in the standard sample.

Tape.-Tongues and bottom of legs bound half and half with 4-inch tape, as shown in standard sample, color to match that of breeches.

Reenforce, or saddle-piece.-Seamed in center, open and stitched each side of an inch, double-stitched to breeches of an inch apart, seam on seam.

Thread.-For all seams and stitching to be of the best quality Sea Island cotton, equal in quality to Willimantic brand, color to match the material, fast dyed. For lock-stitch machine, No. 40, 6-cord for upper feed, and No. 36 6-cord for under feed; for union lock-stitch machine, No. 40 3-cord for upper and No. 60 3-cord for under feed. For sewing on buttons, No. 24; for buttonholes, No. 30. Seams and edges to contain not less than ten stitches to the inch.