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PREFACE.

THE FOLLOWING PAGES are little more than a reprint of two papers on Norway, written by me for the Alpine Journal, viz. “Travelling in Norway' and Excursions in Norway,' which appeared in the numbers for May 1868, and August 1870, respectively. These articles have been carefully revised and corrected for the present work, and in many places I have inserted some remarks which were wanting in the originals. To the above papers I have now added a new chapter on the coast route between Throndhjem and Hammerfest, giving the mail steamers' time-table, correct for last year; and, in order to render the little volume more complete, a map of the greater portion of Norway is appended, whereon the principal routes noticed in the text are shown by red lines. All the engravings are from sketches of my own.

That the present work has no claim to be considered a minute guide to so vast a country as Norway I need hardly say. I venture to hope, however, that embodying, as it does, an experience derived from six summer tours in that country, it may still be of service to future travellers, by giving them in a condensed form the rules of the road,' with all necessary advice for those planning a first tour; by indicating, also, the features both of the country and its inhabitants most worthy of a stranger's attention; and, lastly, by affording some information respecting the choice of routes and the localities in which the best scenery is found. Several of the districts I have touched upon are as yet almost unknown to the travelling world, e.g., that of Aardal leading to the great Mörkfos—probably about the grandest waterfall in the north of Europe.

My best thanks are due to the editor of the Norsk Rigstidende,' for the compliment he paid me by voluntarily inserting translations of both my papers in his daily journal; as also to the Norske Turistforening for giving a translation of the second (viz. ' Excursions in Norway'), a place in their interesting Årbog of

last year.

JOHN ROBERT CAMPBELL,

May 4, 1871.

CONTENT S.

CHAPTER I.

Best Months for Norway-Steamers from England to Christiania and

Bergen-Land route via Germany, Denmark, and Sweden-Luggage -Norwegian Money-Custom-house-Norwegian Language—Resemblance it bears to the Cumberland Dialect—Strong trace of Norwegian Blood found in the People of the English Lake District Travelling, modes of—Tolks — Tariff for Karjoler, Stolkjærrer, and Boats-Guide-books and Maps—A Traveller's Expenses per DayThe Norwegian Horse — Remarks upon Driving - Certain Advice, which the reader will do well not to ow

PAGE 1

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CHAPTER II.

General Aspect of the Country-Trees, most common- Construction

of Country-houses - Gaards-Food-Pauper Regulations - Cultivation of Land—Irrigation-Sæter, or Summer Cheese-farms—Cattle -Natural Politeness and Good Feeling characteristic of the Norwegians—Division of the Country into Amter_Public Functionaries -Army - Church System - Landhandler - National CharacterScarcity of Blackguards—Educational System-School Books, and what Children are taught-Birthplace of English Nursery Tales-Field Sports—Ptarmigan (Ryper) and other Birds—Game LawsWild Reindeer — Beasts of Prey — Bears— Fruit (note) — Salmonfishing_Trout-fishing-Singing Birds, scarcity of

17 CHAPTER III.

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