PREFACE. THE FOLLOWING PAGES are little more than a reprint of two papers on Norway, written by me for the Alpine Journal, viz. 'Travelling in Norway’ and Excursions in Norway,' which appeared in the numbers for May 1868, and August 1870, respectively. These articles have been carefully revised and corrected for the present work, and in many places I have inserted some remarks which were wanting in the originals. To the above papers I have now added a new chapter on the coast route between Throndhjem and Hammerfest, giving the mail steamers' time-table, correct for last year; and, in order to render the little volume more complete, a map of the greater portion of Norway is appended, whereon the principal routes noticed in the text are shown by red lines. All the engravings are from sketches of my own. That the present work has no claim to be considered a minute guide to so vast a country as Norway I need hardly say. I venture to hope, however, that embodying, as it does, an experience derived from six summer tours in that country, it may still be of service to future travellers, by giving them in a condensed form the rules of the road,' with all necessary advice for those planning a first tour; by indicating, also, the features both of the country and its inhabitants most worthy of a stranger's attention; and, lastly, by affording some information respecting the choice of routes and the localities in which the best scenery is found. Several of the districts I have touched upon are as yet almost unknown to the travelling world, e.g., that of Aardal leading to the great Mörkfos—probably about the grandest waterfall in the north of Europe. My best thanks are due to the editor of the 'Norsk Rigstidende,' for the compliment he paid me by voluntarily inserting translations of both my papers in his daily journal; as also to the Norske Turistforening for giving a translation of the second (viz. 'Excursions in Norway'), a place in their interesting Årbog of last year. May 4, 1871. JOHN ROBERT CAMPBELL. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Best Months for Norway-Steamers from England to Christiania and Bergen-Land route via Germany, Denmark, and Sweden-Luggage -Norwegian Money-Custom-house-Norwegian Language-Resemblance it bears to the Cumberland Dialect-Strong trace of Norwegian Blood found in the People of the English Lake District — Travelling, modes of-Tolks-Tariff for Karjoler, Stolkjærrer, and Boats-Guide-books and Maps-A Traveller's Expenses per DayThe Norwegian Horse-Remarks upon Driving-Certain Advice, which the reader will do well not to follow PAGE I CHAPTER II. General Aspect of the Country-Trees, most common- Construction of Country-houses-Gaards-Food-Pauper Regulations -Cultivation of Land—Irrigation—Sæter, or Summer Cheese-farms-Cattle -Natural Politeness and Good Feeling characteristic of the Norwegians-Division of the Country into Amter-Public Functionaries -Army- Church System - Landhandler - National CharacterScarcity of Blackguards—Educational System—School Books, and what Children are taught-Birthplace of English Nursery TalesField Sports-Ptarmigan (Ryper) and other Birds-Game Laws-Wild Reindeer-Beasts of Prey - Bears-Fruit (note) — Salmonfishing-Trout-fishing-Singing Birds, scarcity of. • 17 CHAPTER III. Scenery of Norway compared with that of Switzerland-Turistforen- ingen (note)--Localities most remarkable for grandeur of Scenery -Triangular Area in which most of the best Scenery is found-The Arctic Coast-Its Population-Mirage and other Atmospheric Phe- Throndhjem-Road from there to Christiania-Romsdal and Romsdal- horn-Route from Molde to the Nordfjord-Geirangerfjord, one of the three finest Fjorde in Norway-Horningdalsrokken, ascent of Mountains grouped together in Blocks, a Feature of the Country—— The Nordfjord-Taaning-Kirkenæbbet-Lodendal and Næsdal – Brixdalsbræ and other Glaciers-St. Ceciliaskrone, ascent of-Flowers on the Top-Bredheimsvand-Fjorde, their general Character- Valleys of the Sognefjord — Rönnei — Jostedal - Nigaardsbræ and Tunbergsdalsbræ- Veitestrand-Horungtinder-Klippernaasi, view from-Pass from Berge to Rödsheim-Galdhöpigge, ascent of-Glitter- tind-Ole Rösheim--Road from Lærdal, through Valders to Gjövig- Gudvangen and Nærodalen-Hardangerfjord-Buerbræ― Ringedal and its Water-falls-Norwegian Towns-Bergen-The Lysefjord- Old Moraines-Fettegryder, or Giants' Kettles-Tides in the Fjorde |