like grounds, once owned by British Canadians, are now in the hands of religious organizations. The Ursuline nuns used to own the Plains of Abraham, and were about to sell the tract for building lots when public sentiment compelled the government to purchase it and convert it into a park. A statue of General Wolfe marks the spot where he died on the battlefield. It is the third one erected there, the first two having been ruined by souvenir fiends.

The homes of the Catholic orders in Quebec supply priests for the new parishes constantly being formed in Canada. They also send their missionaries to all parts of the world, and from one of the nunneries volunteers go to the leper colonies in Madagascar. Other orders maintain hospitals, orphanages, and institutions identified with the city's historic past. Before an altar in one of the churches two nuns, dressed in bridal white, are always praying, night and day, each couple being relieved. every half hour. In another a lamp burning before a statue of the Virgin has not been extinguished since it was first lighted, fifteen years before George Washington was born. Some of the churches contain art treasures of great value, besides articles rich in their historical associations.

Driving in the outskirts of Quebec I met a party of Franciscan monks returning from their afternoon walk. They were bespectacled, studious-looking young men, clad in robes of a gingerbread brown, fastened with white girdles, and wearing sandals on their bare feet. All were tonsured, but I noticed that their shaved crowns were in many instances in need of a fresh cutting. These men alternate studies with manual labour in the fields. In front of the church of this order is a great wooden cross bearing

the figure of Christ. Before it is a stone where the devout kneel and embrace His wounded feet. Near by is also a statue of St. Ignatius, founder of the Jesuit Order, standing with one foot on the neck of a man who represents the heretics.

There are in Quebec a few thousand Irish Catholics, descendants of people who came here to escape the famine in Ireland. They have built a church of their own. Another church, shown to visitors as a curiosity, is that of the French Protestants, who, according to the latest figures, number exactly one hundred and thirty-five.

Though a city of well over one hundred thousand people, Quebec has an enviable record for peace and order and for comparatively few crimes. The credit for this is generally given to the influence of the Church, which is also responsible, so I am told, for the success of the French Canadian in "minding his own business." The loyalty of the people to their faith is evidenced by the fact that even the smallest village has a big church. Outside the cities the priest, or curé, is in fact the shepherd of his flock, and their consultant on all sorts of matters. I am told, however, that the clergy do not exercise the same control over political and worldly affairs as was formerly the case, and not nearly so much as is generally supposed. It is still true, however, that the Catholic religion is second only to the French language in keeping the French Canadians almost a separate people.

F

CHAPTER IX

MONTREAL

OLLOWING the course of the French explorers,

I have come up the St. Lawrence to the head of navigation, and am now in Montreal, the largest

city of Canada and the second port of North America. It is an outlet for much of the grain of both the United States and Canada, and it handles one third of all the foreign trade of the Dominion. Montreal is the financial centre of the country and the headquarters for many of its largest business enterprises. In a commercial sense, it is indeed the New York of Canada, although totally unlike our metropolis.

In order to account for the importance of Montreal, it is necessary only to glance at the map. Look first at the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the broad mouth of the river! See how they form a great funnel inviting the world to pour in its people and goods. Follow the St. Lawrence down to Quebec and on by Montreal to the Great Lakes, which extend westward to the very heart of the continent. There is no such waterway on the face of the globe and none that carries such a vast commerce into the midst of a great industrial empire.

Montreal is the greatest inland port in the world. It ships more grain than any other city. It is only four hundred and twenty miles north of New York, yet it is three hundred miles nearer Liverpool. One third of the

distance to that British port lies between here and the Straits of Belle Isle, where the Canadian liners first meet the waves of the open sea. The city is the terminus of the canal from the Great Lakes to the St. Lawrence and of Canada's three transcontinental railways. Vessels from all over the world come here to get cargoes assembled from one of the most productive regions on the globe. Although frozen in for five months every winter, Montreal annually handles nearly four million tons of shipping, most of which is under the British flag. It has a foreign trade of more than five hundred million dollars. The annual grain movement sometimes exceeds one hundred and sixty bushels for each of the city's population of almost a million.

In the modern sense, the port is not yet one hundred years old, though Cartier was here nearly four centuries ago, and Champlain came only seventy years later. Both were prevented from going farther upstream by the Lachine Rapids, just above the present city. Cartier was seeking the northwest passage to the East Indies, and he gave the rapids the name La Chine because he thought that beyond them lay China.

At the foot of the rapids the Frenchmen found an island, thirty miles long and from seven to ten miles wide, separated from the mainland by the two mouths of the Ottawa River. It was then occupied by a fortified Indian settlement. The presence of the Indians seemed to make the island an appropriate site on which to lay the foundations of the new Catholic "Kingdom of God," and the great hill in the background, seven hundred and forty feet high, suggested the name, Mont Real, or Mount Royal.

Although the Indians seemed to prefer fighting the

newcomers to gaining salvation, the religious motive was long kept alive, and it was not until early in the last century that the city began to assume great commercial importance. During the first days of our Revolution, General Montgomery occupied Montreal for a time, and Benjamin Franklin begged its citizens to join our rebellion. It had then about four thousand inhabitants. Even as late as 1830 Montreal was a walled town, with only a beach in the way of shipping accommodations. The other day it was described by an expert from New York as the most efficiently organized port in the world.

I have gone down to the harbour and been lifted up to the tops of grain elevators half as high as the Washington Monument. I have also been a guest of the Harbour Commission in a tour of the water-front. The Commission is an all-powerful body in the development and control of the port. Its members, who are appointed by the Dominion government, have spent nearly forty million dollars in improvements. This sum amounts to almost five dollars a head for everyone in Canada, but the port has always earned the interest on its bonds, and has never been a burden to the taxpayers.

An American, Peter Fleming, who built the locks on the Erie Canal, drew the first plans for the harbour development of Montreal. That was about a century ago. Now the city has its own expert port engineers, and last summer one of the firms here built in ninety days a grain elevator addition with a capacity of twelve hundred and fifty thousand bushels. A giant new elevator, larger than any in existence, is now being erected. It will have a total capacity of fourteen million bushels of grain.