where the air bubbles up in so remarkable a manner, that it cannot escape the most careless observer.

In the valley anciently called Murcia, between the Palatine and Aventine, and in front of the palace of the Cæsars, are some remains of the Circus Maximus. In the original circus, Romulus is reported to have instituted games in honour of Neptune; and here, amidst the sports and games, the rape of the Sabines took place. In after times, chariot races were introduced, and the gladiators exhibited. Cæsar enlarged the Circus of Tarquin to contain a hundred and fifty thousand persons; Vespasian, to two hundred and sixty thousand; and in the time of Pliny, it would hold three hundred thousand. To gain a prize, it was necessary to go seven times round the limits. We learn from tradition, that within this circus occurred the remarkable fact related of Androcles and the lion. 66 Androcles, a Christian exposed to wild beasts, was recognized by a lion, out of whose foot he had extracted a thorn in Africa. The spectators, eager for blood, were astonished to behold this savage beast licking the hand of the willing martyr." Doubtless he who sent the angel to shut the lion's mouth in the days of Daniel, could again say to savage persecution, " Thus far shalt thou come, and no farther." Androcles had surely long possessed the confidence of Joad in Racine's Athalie,-" Je crains Dieu, cher Abner, et n'ai point d'autre craint."

We now quitted this spot, and driving on for about a mile, crossed the water called "Cabra,” to the baths of Caracalla or Antoninus. There were one thousand six hundred baths the building covered a square, each side of one thousand and eighty feet. Considering the kind of bricks, and the thickness of the walls and arches, one is rather

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surprised at the destruction than at the preservation of these prodigious works. The pavement was of mosaic--of marbles, porphyry, serpentine, giallo antico, porta santa, black lava, &c., &c.; and represented gymnastic and athletic games, and flowers. Its saloons were ornamented with the finest productions of the Grecian chisel. Amidst these stupendous ruins, which stretch along one side of the Aventine, were found the Hercules of Glycon, known as the Farnesian Hercules; the group known by the appellation of the Farnesian bull; the Farnesian Flora,-all now in the museum at Naples; and the Torso, which we saw in the Belvedere at the Vatican. The enormous granite column, opposite the bridge of La Trinità, in Florence, was transported hence by one of the Medici. The ravages of Attila brought desolation over all these wondrous works of art; and the noble saloons are now literally the habitation of the darting lizard and the snake. Oh! how wise, how good, is the advice of Gregory, who, amidst every political devastation, counselled the people to occupy themselves in the care of their souls-" to repose on Him who gives what we had not, repairs what we had lost, and preserves what he has repaired." Whilst we wandered amidst broken walls and arches and weeds, picking up a variety of pietra dura, it grew late, cold, and comfortless; and as we began to fancy banditti springing from behind the rank vegetation, we were at length satisfied to return to a brisk fire and needful sofa.

CANOVA.

As we walked this morning in the studio of the late celebrated Canova, it seemed as if he had formed beings

to mourn his loss-so many groups were groups of sorrow. It struck me, that the ease and elegance of the figures spoke the artist's mind to be similar to that of Sir Joshua Reynolds, but with a higher power,-as better circumstanced. His grief is more poignantly expressed than that of the Greek statues; his joy is from Paradise. Canova died at Passagno, his native village, near Venice. He had formed a beautiful group, which he wished to place in a certain spot in St. Peter's. The cardinals and priests opposed this; and Canova deprived Rome of the honour of possessing his remains.

He erected a temple in his native village, on the plan of the Parthenon in miniature. In this are his ashes and some of his beautiful works. He possessed a power the very reverse of that attributed to the head of Medusa; the happier sculptor has almost given life to stone; but he has dropped his magic chisel, and dust to dust has concluded the pæan of his triumph.

Amongst his various noble works we distinguished in his studio a cast of his beautiful Venus, now in the Pitti Palace at Florence. She appears to have just gathered up her garments about her, after coming out of the bath—a beautiful creature, not so modest as the Medicean Venus-not so designing as the exquisite Venus at Naples, called the Calipige. On every side is much more than the perfected beau ideal of most minds-no dancing-master grace-all fresh from the hand of genius, instructed by Grecian models, the copies of nature-so animated, yet so firm. Endymion sleeps-yet you see that his dreams are pleasant, and his dog rivals in fidelity that of Ulysses. The Italian nymphs are of Saturn's reign, and many of them seem starting from their couches, as if the voice of the ruddy

morn had waked them to gladness. The monument for the Spanish Marquesa della Croce is finely grouped. She is on her bier, her husband bending over her; her mother, in silent agony, at her feet, and her brothers in various attitudes of sorrow. The Fighters; the Graces; the Magdalene; the Pietà-are all proofs of noble genius. Venus reposing on the Skin of a Lion, with Cupid playing on a Lyre, are perfectly beautiful; and several little cherubs we longed to pocket. The Genius of Grief leaning on a Lion, the emblem of strength, is affecting and noble. years ago a sudden inundation of the Tiber deluged these fine works, and destroyed many of the casts. What a sight for a sculptor! his studio filled with water. At the same moment, the Piazza di Spagna was crossed in boats. The melting of the snows in the Apennines is often so sudden as to give but little warning of the approaching desolation.

CHAPTER XIX.

Basilica of San Paolo-Monte Testaccio-Temple of Ceres-Nicholas Rienzi-Carmental Gate-Church of San Nicholas-Villa della Farnesine The Vatican-Raffaello-The Sestine Chapel-Michael Angelo's Picture of the Last Judgment—Appartamenti Borgia— Christian Inscriptions from the Catacombs-Museo Chiaramonti.

Two miles from the St. Paolo Gate is the Basilica of St. Paolo. This venerable building stands far from the abode of men, on the road to Ostia, and the Tiber flows near it. The roof was consumed on the 16th of July, 1823, and the most ancient of the Roman Christian churches ceased to be, as a place of worship. It is said that Constantine had procured the garden of a Roman matron, in which St. Paul was buried, and here erected a church which was afterwards enlarged by Valentinian and Theodosius.

It is mentioned in Rome, that Valentinian II. enlarged this church; but as he was a savage pagan it is very unlikely; it was far more probably Valentinian I., who prohibited divinations and enchantments, and made many laws in favour of the Christians. But it appears from ecclesiastical history, "that Arianism had at this time seated itself in the bosom of the Christian church; they had no longer that faith which overcomes the world." Ammianus, a pagan writer, gives an account of the bishops of those times. He says, "When I consider the magnificence and grandeur