rolls (eighteen inches) called "pane grisono," very nice, and we found the eatables generally good. The gardens and the glacis of the Citadel, and the long walks of elms by the Po, are very pleasant: the population is about eighty thousand souls.

The eau de mille fleurs, perfumes, velvets, silks, chamois gloves, are the chief articles of external commerce. On the side of the public walk we found a botanic-garden, which had a considerable number of exotic plants, and a good collection of the indigenous flowers of Italy.

We had not time to see all the churches or public buildings, but were told that the gallery of the king, the university, and the observatory, had many things worthy of observation; but our hearts were with the Vaudois, and we longed to be in the valleys, and amongst foresttrees.

In Italy, the olive and the vine supplant the finer foliage, and the Italians laugh at the love of "alberi senza frutti." The heat was prodigious as we passed the plain, and now we feel it very much in managing the vetturini and passports. A stream runs through every street, which gives a degree of freshness. The Po is said to be at this spot about six miles from its source. There is sadly wanted here again the good Claudius, to put down the various idolatrous objects of worship, particularly the Sudario or shroud, said to be that in which the Body of Christ was wrapped. That good bishop broke down images through the whole of his diocese, and wrote against the worship of them. He said, "if they who have quitted the worship of devils, honour the images of saints, they have not forsaken

idols; they have only changed the names; for whether you paint upon the wall the picture of St. Peter, or of St. Paul, or Jupiter, they are all dead, and are now neither gods nor apostles, nor men, no more than stocks or stones." The good bishop was certainly right as to their bodies; and as to their spirits, surely they have not the attribute of ubiquity!

CHAPTER XVII.

Set off to see the Vaudois-La Torre-Church Service-People— Pignerolo-Valley of Lucerna-Villaro-Bobbio-A VaudoiseArnaud and his gallant Band-The Alpine Ranges.

WITH much delay and difficulty we at length obtained our passports for the vallies of the Vaudois. About twenty-one thousand Protestants inhabit the valleys between the Pelice and Clusone, who are there, in a beautiful natural temple, free to worship God according to their conscience. They live by the culture of their lands; a stone fixes their boundary, beyond which they cannot purchase. The village of La Torre is beautifully situated amidst wooded Alps, above which rise the more lofty snowy peaks. The church is one mile from the village of La Torre, at a spot called Sta Marguerite. On the 3d of June, Whitsunday, we followed the happy, simple congregation up the hill. The pastor and moderator, Mr. B——, preached from the words-"We have this treasure in earthen vessels, that the praise may be of God, and not of men." He appeared about sixty years of age,—his countenance was much worn by trial. He opened his discourse by shewing the nature of the treasure-even the Gospel of Christ,-quoting, from an old writer, these words-" amidst the pagans all was God but God, and amongst the Jews, their vain traditions, and their prejudices, hid the true God,-and effectually shut out the light, light originally received from God." He

observed that the gospel was a treasure that enlightened the intellect, and offered as a proof, the state of the apostles before and after the day of Pentecost. "The gospel is indeed a treasure," said he, "for it shews us the means of obtaining divine favour, and grace to sanctify the heart. When these wonderful effects are considered, we are astonished that this ministry should be committed to earthen vessels; yet such has been the pleasure of God, for this plain reason, given as plainly by the apostle, that the praise may be, not of men, but of God: and now, my dear brethren, and friends in Christ, how is it with us? we have this treasure likewise, but in earthen vessels, that the praise may be of God. It is Christ who must be our strength in weakness: the gospel of grace is committed to us earthen vessels; we impart it to you-still earthen vessels; but it is in its own nature beyond pearls and gold. If we seek in this treasure Christ, he supports us by its promises; it is then a treasure which enlightens our understandings and sanctifies our hearts, and thence we devote to him our hearts and our lives."

Four times in the year the Vaudois receive the sacrament; we saw about five hundred approach, and celebrate the love of Christ. The service began by reading two chapters, one from the Gospel of St. John, the other from the Acts of the Apostles. The men and women sat separately; the women in neatly plaited fly caps, with all their hair strained back, and entirely disguised, as human beings, by goitres, not one, but many, hanging in bunches. No rags, no filth, as at Naples; but all were neat, clean, and quiet, modest and attentive. They sang several hymns in the old canon style, always going on with all their might, and great seeming devotion. Two children were christened; the godfathers advanced to the table, with a

large square of rich brocade silk pinned to their shoulders, and hanging down in front, beneath which was hidden their little charge; on the table was a small stand for the Bible of the reader. After an exhortation to the sponsors from the pulpit, the minister came down. The godmother then took from her pocket a little phial of water, and poured it into the hands of the minister, and he let it drop upon the forehead of the child; no sign of the Cross was made. He said, "I baptize thee in the name of the Father, and the Son, and the Holy Ghost." The chapters read were from the Lausanne version, with very suitable reflections. There was then a confession, very similar, or the same with that I heard at Lausanne; then followed a hymn in very old French, and then the sermon; then another hymn and exhortation to the communicants: the little reading-stand was then removed, and two high ancient silver cups were put on the table, with a large quantity of bread in a napkin. The minister then approached the table, (which was where our reading-desk is generally placed, under the pulpit,) and said, "The cup of blessing which we bless, is it not the communion of the blood of Christ?-the bread which we break, is it not the communion of the body of Christ?" The men then approached in pairs, put a small piece of money into a plate on the table, and made a bend to the minister. He then presented them with the bread and wine, applying to each some verse of scripture, not doctrinal, but what is usually termed practical, (a distinction which I think shews but little real insight into the nature of the gospel.) They then bent again, two more succeeded, and thus, till all approached, partook and passed on, to the number of five hundred, the men first, and then the women. Mr. B. said there were but few compa ratively to-day, on account of the number of women who at