Next morning, as Mabyn Rosewarne was coming briskly up the Trevenna road, carrying in her arms a pretty big parcel, she was startled by the appearance of a young man, who suddenly showed himself overhead, and then scrambled down the rocky bank until he stood beside her.

"I've been watching for you all the morning, Mabyn," said Trelyon. "II want to speak to you. Where are you going?"

66

Up to Mr. Trewhella's. You know his granddaughter is very nearly quite well again; and there is to be a great gathering of children there to-night to celebrate her recovery. This is a cake I am carrying that Wenna has made herself."

"Is Wenna to be there?" Trelyon said, eagerly.

"Why, of course," said Mabyn, petulantly. "What do you think the children could do without her?"

"Look here, Mabyn," he said. want to speak to you very particularly. Couldn't you just as well go round by the farm road? Let me carry your cake for you."

I SHALL touch very briefly indeed upon Lahaul, in order to pass almost at once into the more secluded and interesting province which affords the subject and the title of this paper. Lahaul is pretty well known, being traversed every year by Himáliyan tourists on their way to Ladák. If we were to take it for a Hindústhani word (a subject on which I have no information), the proper translation of it would be "a howling wilderness;" and that is exactly what Lahaul is, in one respect important for travellers. As compared with other parts of the Himáliya, it is far from being a howl"Iing wilderness in any physical sense of these words; because it is comparatively rich in trees and fields, and among the inner Himáliya the valleys are much more open than in the outer, where it is too often impossible to see the mountains because of the mountains. After the scenery around, there is a delightful sense of relief in entering its more open valleys and getting pretty full views of the great snowy ranges; there is also comfort in travelling along a cut road, however narrow it may be: but these advantages are counterbalanced by the disposition of the Lahaulese towards travellers, which is so bad that the tourist requires to be forewarned of it. There is, however, a great set-off to that in the presence of the Moravian missionaries, who at Kaelang have created an oasis amidst the squalor and wildness of this Himáliyan province, and have done as much for its improvement as the difficult circumstances of their position would allow. A Yarkund merchant hid complained bitterly to me of the exictions and other annoyances which he was experiencing in Lahaul; and this conjoining

Mabyn guessed what he wanted to speak about, and willingly made the circuit by a more private road leading by one of the upland farms. At a certain point they came to a stile; and here they rested. So far Trelyon had said nothing of consequence.

"Oh, do you know, Mr. Trelyon," Mabyn remarked, quite innocently, "I have been reading such a nice book—all about Jamaica."

"So you're interested about Jamaica, too?" said he, rather bitterly.

"Yes, much. Do you know that it is the most fearful place for storms in the whole world — the most awful hurricanes that come smashing down everything and killing people. You can't escape if you're in the way of the hurricane. It whirls the roofs off the houses, and twists out the plantain-trees just like straws. The rivers wash away whole acres of canes and swamp the farms. Sometimes the

so long as it lasts, be greater than that
of any known cararact, though they de-
scend thousands of feet, and their final
thundering concussion is as the noise of
many waters in the solitudes around.
"They too have a voice, yon piles of
snow," and truly these are-

Oft from whose feet the mighty avalanche
Sky-pointing peaks,
Shoots downward, glittering through the pure

serene.

with my own experience which I found | resemblance to great cataracts of white afterwards to be in accordance with that of foaming water, and sending up clouds of other English travellers, some of high snow-spray as they struck the ice. The official position-induced me to inquire volume of one of these avalanches must, of the Moravians the cause of such a state of matters, which presents a serious obstacle to the development of trade between Yarkund and British India. One reason they assigned was, that the people of Lahaul were irritated at the making of the cut road, which allowed ponies and mules to traverse that province, and so deprived them not merely of their rights of porterage, but also of certain vested rights of pilfering from packages, which they valued much more. Another reason assigned was the hostility of the Tscho, or From the junction of the Chandra and larger zemindars; but, I believe, the Bhaga Rivers the pilgrim has the choice difficulty is intimately connected with the of several routes to Kashmir, but they general position assumed by the British are all of such a character that even government. It has been so success- Hopeful might be excused for contemfully instilled into the minds of the peo- plating them with some dismay. The ple by the Tscho, that the British rule easiest, undoubtedly, is that by Leh ; but will come to an end, that when the Mora- it is much the longest and dreariest, invians purchased some land at Kaelang a volving thirty-seven marches to Strinafew years ago, they could only obtain it gar, and an eighteen-thousand-feet pass, on the condition being formally inserted besides several more of lesser height. in the title-deed, that it should revert to A shorter, and, on the whole, a much the original owners whenever British rule easier road, goes by way of Chamba and came to an end in Lahaul. A fact like Badrawar; but the difficulty is how to this hardly requires comment, and I may get into it, because (not to speak of a leave it to speak for itself. I shall only jhúla over the Chandra, which beats all mention further, in general connection the bridges I ever saw, and the mere with this province, that at Gandla, and sight of which makes the blood run cold) still better, about half-way on the road to the best way into it is across the fearful it from Sísú, magnificent avalanches of Barra Bhagal Pass, over which beasts of snow may be both heard and seen. On burden cannot cross, and where there is the opposite side of the Chandra River a dangerous arrête, which can only be there rises, to the height of 20,356 feet, passed with the aid of ropes. The usual the extremely precipitous peak M of the route taken is that in twenty-seven Trigonometrical Survey; and from the marches, down the Chandra-Bhaga River great beds of snow upon it, high above to Kishtwar. But though that route has us, avalanches were falling every five been improved of late years, there is one minutes, before and after mid-day, on to part of it which is impassable for mounttwo long glaciers which extended almost ain-ponies, and it involves a descent to down to the river. As the bed of the five thousand feet down a close warm Chandra is here under ten thousand feet, valley. So I set to inquire whether my the highest peak must have risen up al- old idea of following the lie of the Himost sheer more than ten thousand feet, máliya, and always in its loftier valleys, in tremendous precipices, hanging gla- could not be carried out on this part of ciers, and steep beds and walls of snow; my journey; and was delighted to hear though on its north-western shoulder the from Mr. Heyde, the accomplished head ascent was more gradual, and was cov- of the Moravian Mission, that it was ered by scattered pines. Immediately in quite passable; that he himself had travfront the slope was terrific; and, every ersed about the first half of the way, and few minutes, an enormous mass of snow that it led through Zanskar, a country of gave way and fell, flashing in the sunlight, the very existence of which I was then as on steep rocks. A great crash was heard ignorant as my readers probably are now. as these masses struck the rocks, and a Mr. Heyde was quite enthusiastic in continuous roar as they poured down-praise of this route, and he even spoke wards, until they broke over a precipice of its leading over flowery maidans or above the glaciers, and then fell with a plains. I am bound to say, however, for

the benefit of future travellers, that this ladies, and of Mr. Theodor, who was was a delusion and a snare. Men who suffering intensely from the exposure he have lived for many years among the had incurred in constructing the road to Himáliya come to have very peculiar ideas Leh over the Barra Lacha. It was cold as to what constitutes a maidan or plain. and gloomy the day I left Kaelang. The There were no difficulties on this route? clouds that hung about the high mountI inquired. Oh, there were none to speak ains added to the impressiveness of the of, except the Shinkal Pass which led scene. Through their movements an icy over into Zanskar. It was of unknown peak would suddenly be revealed for a height; it required four days to cross it; few moments; tben a rounded snow-dome there were no villages or houses on the would appear, to be followed by some way, and the top of it was an immense gla- huge glacier, looking through the clouds cier. He (Mr. Heyde) had once crossed as if it were suspended in the gloomy it in company with Brother Pagell, and air. For two days we pursued the road Bruder Pagell had fainted whenever they to Leh- namely, to the village of Darcha, got off the glacier. But there had been from which the path over the great Shinsnow on the ground, which was very fa-kal Pass into Zanskar diverges to the tiguing; and at the end of the fourth day left, or north-west, up the valley of the I would descend upon Kharjak, the first | Kado Tokpho River. This was the last village in Zanskar, which I would find to human habitation before reaching Kharbe a nice hospitable place, about four- jak four days' journey off; and though teen thousand feet high. Were there the most of my coolies had, by Mr. other passes? Well, there was the Pense- Heyde's advice, been engaged at Kaela Pass, but that was nothing. A flowery lang to take me as far as Kharjak, their maidan led up to it (my experience was number had to be supplemented at Darthat a glacier and six feet deep of snow led cha. To secure that, a representative of up to the top of it); but he did not know British authority, a policeman so called, farther, and there might be places a little had been sent with me to Darcha; but difficult to get over between Súrú and the policeman soon came back to my tent. Kashmir. I mention this to show how in a bruised and bleeding condition, comregular Himáliyans look upon such mat-plaining that the people of the village ters; for Mr. Heyde was careful to warn had given him a beating for his interferme about the lateness of the season, to ence; and the men who did engage to inquire into the state of my lungs and go, tried to run away when we were well throat, and to give me all the information up the desolate pass, and gave me other and assistance he could. It took me ex-serious trouble. The first day of our asactly twenty-eight marches and thirty-one days to reach Srinagar from Kaelang by this route, and it could not well be done in less; but my difficulties were much increased by a great snowstorm which swept over the Himáliya in the middle of September, and which need not be counted on so early in the season.

cent was certainly far from agreeable. The route for it would be absurd to speak of a path ran up the left bank of the Kado Tokpho, and crossed some aggravating stone avalanches. My dandy could not be used at all, and I had often to dismount from the large pony I had got at Kaelang. Our first campingThe selection of this route nearly ground was called Dakmachen, and caused a mutiny among my servants, who seemed to be used for that purpose, but had been promising themselves the warm had no good water near. On great part valley of the Chandra-Bhaga. So un- of the next day's journey, granite avaknown a country as Zanskar frightened lanches were also a prominent and disthem, and Silas unfortunately heard of gusting feature. Indeed there are so Mr. Pagell's fainting-fit, which almost many of them in the Kado Tokpho valmade the eyes start out of his own head, ley, and they are so difficult and painful since he knew that gentleman's endur- to cross, that I was almost tempted to ance as a mountaineer. The only doubt wish that one would come down in my I had was about the weather, which be- presence, and let me see what it could gan to look threatening; but I finally re-do. They were very like Himáliyan glasolved on this interesting route, and found good cause to congratulate myself on having done so.

ciers, but had no ice beneath; and an appalling amount of immense peaks must have fallen down into this hideous valley. An enterprising dhirzie or tailor, well acquainted with the route, was our guide, and the owner of my pony, and I

could not help asking him if this were | glacier from solid ground was almost imone of the maidans of which Mr. Heyde perceptible, over immense ridges of had spoken; but he said we should meet blocks of granite and slabs of slate. one presently, and found one wherever there was a narrow strip of grassy land. At one place we had to work up the side of a sort of precipice, and met coming down there a naked Hindú bawa, or religious devotee, who was crossing from Zinskar to Lahaul, accompanied by one attendant, and with nothing but his loincloth, a brass drinking-pot, and a little parched grain. He was a young man, and appeared strong and well-nourished. It was passing strange to find one of these ascetics in the heart of the Himáliya, far from the habitations of men; and when I went on without giving him anything, he deliberately cursed both my pony and myself, and prophesied our speedy destruction, until I told him that I had slept at the foot of the Dread Mother, which seemed to pacify him a little.*

Some of these first ridges rested on the glacier, while others had been thrown up by it on the rocky mountain-side; but soon the greater ridges were left behind, and we were fairly on the glacier, where there were innumerable narrow crevasses, many of them concealed by white honeycombed ice, numerous blocks of stone standing on pillars of ice, and not a few rills, and even large brooks, the sun having been shining powerfully in the morning. It was not properly an ice-stream, but an immense glacial lake, on which we stood; for it was very nearly circular; it was fed by glaciers and snow-slopes all round, and it lapped over into the villages beneath in several different directions. I was prevented by an incident, to be mentioned presently, from calculating the height of this pass, and the TrigThe first day and a half were the worst onometrical Survey does not appear to part of this journey over the Shinkal have done so; but as Kharjak, the first Pass. Its features changed greatly after village in Zanskar, is 13,670 feet, and it we reached the point where the Kado took me the greater part of next day to Tokpho divides into two branches, ford- get down to Kharjik, though I camped ed the stream to the right, and made a this day at least 1,500 feet below the sumvery steep ascent of about 1,500 feet. mit of the pass, on the Zanskar side, I Above that we passed into an elevated conclude that the Shinkal cannot be less picturesque valley, with a good deal of than eighteen thousand feet high, and grass and a few birch-bushes, which leads that it may possibly be more. It must all the way up to the glacier that covers be distinguished from another and neighthe summit of the pass. The usual bouring pass, also called the Shinkal, camping-ground in this valley is called which is to be found in the TopographRamjakpúk, and that place is well pro-ical Sheet, No. 46, and which runs from tected from the wind; but there are bushes to serve as fuel where we pitched our tents a mile or two below, at a height of about fifteen thousand feet. Towards evening there was rain and a piercing cold wind, with the thermometer at 36° Fahr., and many were the surmises as to whether we might not be overtaken by a snowstorm on the higher portion of the pass next day.

Burdun Gonpa apparently nowhere except into a region of glaciers. As the word Shinkal thus occurs twice on the frontier of Zanskar, it is probably a local word either for a pass or a glacier. Of course the difficulty of breathing at this height was very great; some of my people were bleeding at the nose, and it would have been hardly possible for us to as. cend much higher. Humboldt got up on In the morning the thermometer was the Andes to twenty-one thousand feet, exactly at freezing-point, the grass was and the Schlagentweits in the Himáliya white with hoar-frost, and there was to twenty-two thousand; but such feats plenty of ice over the streams as we ad- can only be accomplished in very exvanced upwards. For some way the path ceptional states of the atmosphere. Highwas easy; then there was a long steeper ascents have been made in balloons, ascent, and after that we came on the enormous glacier which is the crest of this awful pass. The passage on to the

Kalika, the most inaccessible peak of the holy mountain Girnar, in Kathiawar. It is consecrated to Kali, or Dárga, the goddess of destruction; is frequented by Aghoras-devotees who shun all society, and are said to eat carrion and human flesh. The general beliet is, that of every two people who visit Kalika, only one comes back.

but there no exertion is required. In or-
dinary circumstances, eighteen thousand
feet, or nearly three thousand feet higher
than the summit of Mont Blanc, is about
the limit of human endurance when any
exertion is required; and on the Shin-
kal I had the advantage of a strong sa-
gacious pony, which carried me
most of the glacier easily enough; but I

over

had a good deal of work on foot, and suf- inconvenience in an almost treeless refered much more from the exertions Igion, where they could not have been rehad to make than any one else.

placed. I could only have supplied the On reaching the middle of this glacial want of the bedding by purchasing sheeplake it became quite apparent where its skins, furs, or blankets alive with bodysea of ice came from. On every side lice; and the loss of the rupees would were steep slopes of snow or névé, with have been worse than either. I have no immense beds of snow overhanging doubt this was a planned arrangement,. them. It was more like a Place de la whoever planned it; for the bigarries, Concorde than the basin of the Aletsch who carried these light burdens, were glacier in Switzerland; and the surround- strong men, and the obvious motive was ing masses of névé rose up in a much that I should be compelled to turn back. more abrupt and imposing manner than from Zanskar and take the Chandra-Bhathe surroundings of any scene amid the ga route. On discovering this state of high Alps. On the right the snow-slopes matters I was excessively angry, not so were especially striking, being both beau- much because of the attempt to force my tiful and grand. A dazzling sheet of un- steps, as on account of the danger in broken white snow rose up for more than which some ignorant fools had placed us a thousand feet, on a most steep incline, all. Though the morning had been fine,. to vast overhanging walls of what I may bad weather had been gathering for call stratified névé, from which huge several days; the sky was now obmasses came down every now and then, scured; clouds were rolling close round, with a loud but plangent sound. So, all and to have been overtaken by a snowaround, there were great ridges, fields, storm on that glacier would have been domes, walls, and precipices of snow and almost certain death to us all. So long ice. No scene could give a more im- as the sky was clear and we had the pressive idea of eternal winter, or of the snow-walls to guide us, it was easy enough mingled beauty and savagery of high to cross it; but where would we have. Alpine life. Even Phooleyram, my Ku- been, in a blinding snowstorm, on a glanáwar Múnshi, was struck by it. Up to cier at least eighteen thousand feet high, this point I was not aware that he knew with no central moraine, and lapping over any English, and had not heard him on half-a-dozen different sides? Morespeak in any language for days, he being over, the snow would cover the rotten. rather sulky at having to walk for the honey-combed ice which bridged over most part; but on this occasion he sud-innumerable crevasses. All the people denly turned round to me, and to my in- about me, except, perhaps, the dhirzie, tense surprise, said in English,-“I think were quite ignorant of the danger we were this must be the region of perpetual in, and that exasperated me more at this snow." That was doubtless a reminis- tricky interference. As I was detercence of old book-knowledge of English mined not to turn on my steps, I saw which had almost passed from his mind, but was recalled by the extraordinary scene around, and it came in quite ingenuously and very appropriately.

My attention, however, was soon recalled to a more practical matter. Knowing the danger of crossing a glacier at this height, and in the threatening weathor which had been gathering for several days, I had given strict orders that all the bigarries, or porters, should keep together and beside me; but, on the very summit of the pass, in the middle of the glacial lake, I found that three of them were missing, and that they were the three who were the most lightly laden, and who carried my most important effects namely, my tent-poles, my bedding, and the portmanteau which contained my money. The tent-poles might have been dispensed with; but still the want of them would have caused great

that not a moment was to be lost in taking decided measures; so I made my servants and the bigarries continue across the glacier, with instructions to camp at the first available spot on the Zanskar side, and threatened them if they delayed: while I myself rode back, accompanied by one man, in search of the missing coolies and their loads. There was an obvious danger in this, because it involved the risk of being cut off from my people and baggage; but it was really the only thing to be done in the circumstances consonant with a determination to proceed. So I waited until my party disappeared on the brow of the glacier, and then rode back in a savage and. reckless humour over ice which I had previously crossed in a very cautious manner. I could easily retrace our track until we got to the great stony ridges, and then the man I had taken with me