ENTRANCE TO THE GOLD FIELDS.

55

tinually. At times the disturbance increases to such an extent as to make one think, at a distance of two miles away, that the whole thing was tumbling down the mountain. The color of the superficial part of the glacier is pale blue, but the fissures, with their varying depths, run from blue to the deepest indigo color. From the foot of this, which has been called Sheep Camp Glacier, may be had a very comprehensive general view of Chilkoot Pass. For two miles the course extends straight away and upward through fields of perpetual snow and seems to terminate at dark stone walls. summit of the pass is not visible, as the defile turns to the left and then abruptly to the right through gateways of granite. In many of the depressions around the higher points of this part of the coast range there are ice caps or glaciers, but they are rarely visible from the valleys immediately below.

The

Chilkoot Pass is 3,500 feet above the level of the sea. The nearest settlement to the summit is Stone House, which is 2,400 feet below, and the real struggle lies between these two points. The view from the top is not an extended one. Crater Lake, 500 feet below, can be seen. It is the source of that arm of the Yukon which affords the entrance to the gold fields via Chilkoot Pass. Beyond the little lake, less than a mile in extent, is a low line of hills, and in the distance rises a range of bare mountains. A dim trail leads down the hill and across the frozen lake, disappearing into the cañon beyond.

The abrupt passages near the summit are better

56

NO TIME FOR REST.

accomplished by hauling supplies on sleds. After the summit is passed, if the journey is continued before the ice breaks up, it often happens that long distances may be made by means of sails raised on improvised masts on the sled. The sledge should be about seven feet four inches long, seven inches high, and sixteen inches wide, of strong but light timber, and the runners shod with either brass or steel, the former being preferable, because the sled will glide over the snow more smoothly in intensely cold weather, while steel is inclined to grind and lug very much, as if it were being hauled over sand. When the weather is cold, if water is taken into the mouth and held a moment, then blown over the runner, a coating will immediately form, and if this process is repeated when it becomes a little worn off, one will be surprised to find how much smoother and easier the sled will draw. It is preferable to use the Eskimo mode of making sledges for Yukon traveling. They use no nails or bolts, binding the joints together with strong cords. There is much less danger of breaking, if made in this way, should the sled be overturned, as the joints will yield when thus tied together.

From the summit to the head of Lake Lindeman the distance is nine miles. The descent for the first halfmile is. steep, then a gradual slope to the lake. But there is little time for resting and none for dreaming, as the edge of the timber, where the camp must be made, is seven miles from the summit. Taking the camping outfit and sufficient provisions for four or five days, the

sleigh is loaded, the rest of the outfit is packed up, or buried in the snow, shovels being stuck up to mark the spot. This precaution is necessary, for storms come suddenly and rage with fury along these mountain crests. The first half-mile or more is made in quick time, then over six or seven feet of snow the prospector drags his sleigh to where there is wood for his camp-fire. At times this is no easy task, especially if the weather be stormy, for the winds blow the new fallen snow about so as completely to cover the track made by the man but little ahead; at other times during fine weather and with a hard crust on the snow, it is only a pleasant run from the Pass down to the first camp in the Yukon Basin. In all except the most sheltered situations the tent is necessary for comfort, and the stove gives better satisfaction. than the camp-fire, as it burns but little wood, is easier to cook over, and does not poison the eyes with smoke. It is a noticeable fact that there are fewer cases of snow blindness among those who use stoves than among those who crowd around a smoking camp-fire for cooking or for warmth. Comfort in making a trip of this kind will depend, in a great measure, upon the conveniences of camping, suitable clothing, and light, warm bedding. Yes, upon provisions, too, though often more depends upon the cook than upon what is in the larder.

Once on Lake Lindeman a new feature of the journey presents itself. Those who make the trip in summer will find the ice out of the lakes, but if an early start were made they would be able to cross Lake Lindeman

58

CONSTRUCTION OF BOATS.

and the other lakes of the chain by means of ice boats temporarily constructed. After the 1st of May the lake course opens up and fairly good boats are a necessity.

Until the last year it was necessary for every miner to carry a whip-saw with him with which to cut the timber for his craft, and whip-sawing was one of the picturesque, although not especially inviting, incidents of the trip. But a saw-mill has recently been constructed. The only timber used in the construction of boats on the lakes is a local kind of spruce. In the first place, the timber has to be discovered, and this is not the easiest thing in the world, because the timber around the lake is nearly all burned off, and there is none suitable for boat building. After the timber has been found comes the construction of a saw pit. To construct a saw pit it is necessary to find trees so arranged as to support cross-pieces, the stumps being cut at a proper distance from the ground so as to take the notched cross-pieces in. This requires four trees about equi-distant from one another, and the cross-pieces have to be fixed very firmly in place so as not to slip, as the log which is to be sawed is likely otherwise to be the cause of an accident. Often a good woodsman will be able to fell the tree which is to be sawed in such a way that it will fall into the pit, which saves the time and trouble of skidding the log up and rolling it in place after felling, which is frequently a very difficult task. From the slabs and boards thus roughly made the flat-boats are constructed, upon which the miners

DANGEROUS WATER.

59

traverse the chain of lakes extending north from Chilkoot Pass.

From the head of Lake Lindeman, on both sides to Lake Bennett, the general character of the country is mountainous, with narrow benches skirting the shore. The distance across Lake Lindeman is nearly six miles, and from the foot of this lake about fifty yards of a portage is made of the one-mile river to Lake Bennett, because this stream is very crooked and full of rocks, making boat passage difficult and dangerous.

Lake Bennett is twenty-six miles in length and is separated from Tagish Lake by a six-mile river. This lake is some fifteen miles long, and empties into Mud Lake through an outlet three miles long. Mud Lake is about ten miles in length, and at the foot of it open water is usually found in April. Open water will probably be passed before reaching this point in the rivers connecting the lakes, but firm ice at the sides. affords good sledding; but at the foot of Mud Lake a raft or boat must be built. Dry timber can be found along the shores with which to build a raft, which will take everything to the Lewes River Cañon, about forty miles to the northwest. The river cuts through high banks of cement and sand, where millions of martins have their nests. The little birds have usually burrowed into a stratum of sand which lies just under the crest of the perpendicular bank. For mile after mile. the coping of this cañon is decorated with a frieze of martins' nests. Usually there is a single line of these