being long, I spent a portion of my time in examining all within and without. To the rear of the church, but attached to the building, is a chapel erected over a fountain, and with the water the worshippers not only crossed themselves but washed in it, believing that its efficacy was the same as the pool of Siloam. Up the side of an abrupt mountain of rock above the church, a winding-path conducted me to a small chapel, where also religious services were performed.

During my rambles over the place, my attention was directed to an old padre who stood in one of the large doors of the church, and whose fingers were covered with diamond rings. My friend also pointed to his large gold shoe buckles, that were thickly set around with diamonds. The precious metal and brilliant stones bore a remarkable contrast to the old clergyman's black gown and shovel hat. By the way, I put myself to the trouble to ascertain the diameter across the brim of one of those hats, and it was precisely twenty-eight inches. The brim is rolled up at the sides, and the front and back parts present a shovel-like form-hence they are called shovel hats. To those who have a vague idea of Mexico, and the religious ceremonies of that people, it will appear that it was an national festival, and that the President, pro tem., and all of his cabinet were there in their elegant uniforms-consequently, when nobles come to worship, the priests must, for decency's sake, put on their fine jewels. I think I have heard it defended by Protestants, that religion should be dressed, to make it respectable in the eyes of the rich, and, if it should be right in them, ought it to be an error of the Catholic?

The priests in Mexico are numerous. They are to be seen at any time, and in every place. I observed that, day and night, many of them were loafing about the streets and bar-rooms of the city, in their long gowns, reaching from the chin to the heels. My having so recently left a land of temperance societies, it impressed me with some degree of

ance.

horror to behold the heralds of the Cross taking their beverages, unrestrained by public opinion, in Restaurats. This surprise was more especially felt, since I was aware that, through the instrumentality of the Catholic clergy, both in Europe and the United States, it was that the use of wines and ardent spirits were not only prohibited to that body, but that, by their sober example, and their eloquent denunciations of the habitual or other use of alcohol, they had won the approbation of the world, and restrained their laity as well as themselves from the brutal practices of intemperTo my own mind, as also in the opinion of gentlemen of the Roman Catholic profession, the clergy of Mexico seemed to act in many respects independent of their brethren of the United States and the old world, and appeared to conceive the performances of their deportment harmless, which indeed in other countries would shock the good sense of propriety of both clergy and laity. However, there is some degree of palliating excuse for the frailties of poor human nature in Mexico-for as the maxim is, that "money is the root of all evil," its abundance there has worked wonders in corrupting the habits and morals of the people of that country-and thus it is that, through the superstitions of the people, the reverend gentlemen had imposed upon their credulity, by impressing on their minds that contagions are atmospherical, and not the result of certain habits. I have been respectably informed, however, that tippling, gambling, and lewdness of habit, though they would appear to a stranger to be general, are not prevalent among all the clergy of Mexico-for perhaps there exists as much piety in some few of them, as in any of those of other denominations, and the Mexicans, of all other nations, are peculiarly subservient and constant in their own way to their religious rulers, and devoted to their worship.

From the best information I could obtain, the church has a fee simple titled right to one-third of all the real estate in the country of Mexico, and, as it is supposed, by

money loaned, secured upon mortgage, have a lien on another third. The revenues of the church, derived from the rents of houses and lands, usury on money, profits from monte, donations and clerical fees, are said to amount to many millions, (the precise sum being unknown,) if it could be ascertained. The granaries of the church and the priests husband half of the crops in the land. The government of Mexico can with difficulty pay the interest of its public debt, and support itself; and whenever an instalment is to be liquidated, the money is raised by forced loans. Query, What becomes of the revenue of Mexico? The government in its extremity, in 1841, had all the landed estate of the church assessed, and it is said, by some of the priests too, that nothing but the bribery by the church of the government officers, has prevented the property of the church from being confiscated-it must come! Spain has set the example.

But all this will not avail in relieving the people, unless the government is administered by clean fingers. The revenue, as at present collected, would liquidate the debt of Mexico in two years-at least it is so believed by some, but it falls short of doing so, by the mismanagement of those in power. What, then, becomes of the people's money?

CHAPTER VII.

Return to the City of Mexico. The Theatre. Four Theatres and one Plaza de los Torros. Audience at the Nuave de Teatro. The ladies. The Plaza de los Torros. Audience. Drawing of a Lottery and Bull-fight. Cemetery of Santa Paula. English have the right of burial. The Cemetery. The Chapel. Garden. Flowers. Vegetables. The Portal Way, Orange and Lemon trees. Rows of boxes. Coffins shoved into niches. Gilt Frames. Ornamental Works. Lamps. Mound of human bones. The grave diggers. Monument to Santa Anna's leg. Return from Santa Paula. The youth John Hill. The College of Mines. Arrangement of the rooms of the College. The Cabinet of Minerals. Models of Machinery. The Observatory. The Observatory proper. Baron Humboldt. Splendid View. Chapel. Politeness of John Hill. Gaming room. Gambling. Influence of Money. Public opinion. Whitewashing the houses. Feats of daring of the Mexicans.

HAVING become oppressed by the fatigues of the day at Guadaloupe, I again took a coach for the city of Mexico. Notwithstanding my desire for repose, the temptation of the Nuave de Teatro was not to be resisted. It was that night to be attended by the fashionables of the city, and the diplomatists with their families. I therefore, in company with some American acquaintances, set out for the theatre.

There are four theatres in the city of Mexico, and one Plaza de los Torros. From what I could learn, the Teatro de Principal, besides the one above named, was much attended by the polite and respectable classes of society. However, a new theatre is about being completed, to bear the distinguished name of Teatro de Santa Anna, which, when finished, is expected to carry the world of Mexico before it.

On arriving at the Nuave de Teatro, I felt gratified at its ample and pleasing construction. Its singularity from the theatres of the United States were scarcely visible, and in but one respect worthy of remark. This was, that the seats of both boxes and pit had well stuffed cushions and backs to them, which is a comfort not to be found in most of the theatres of the Union. Bills of the night's performance were, as usual, handed to the audience, accompanied with

a long and flaming printed controversy between the Spanish and Mexican architects, who in turns had been engaged in the erection of the Santa Anna de Teatro.

But that which chiefly interested me, and indeed, as I was unacquainted with the Spanish language, the grand inducement for me to visit the theatre, was to witness the assembled beauty of the occasion. My seat was secured in the centre of the pit, and in Mexico it is a choice place with many of the ladies, some of whom I had the happiness to see had taken their places near me. As I had desired, my arrival at the theatre was rather early, and by that means I had the better opportunity of observing the playgoing folks as they came in. All having been seated, I ventured to raise my eyes from the many charms around me. In the boxes to the left were to be seen some of the Ministers and Consuls from European kingdoms, whose places were graced by the welcome sight of many soft blue eyes, and fair complexions. But principally to the right were to be beheld the languishing and melting dark eyes, with long eye-lashes, of the delicate Spanish brunette complexions, in rows sufficient to take away the senses of any man—the ex-Marchionesses and rich heiresses of Mexico-and as they gracefully waved and flourished their beautiful fans from pit to box, the diamonds on their small fingers were not half so bewitching as their own personal loveliness. I thus discovered from the conversation of compliments by the fan, I had not only to learn the Spanish tongue, but the mystic language of the fan-for the ladies of Mexico are quite Masonic, and with all my intercourse with the people of that country I found that it was as necessary to understand the meaning of their gestures, as of their words, many of which are very significant. The play seemed to go off with the knowing ones very well-the name of it I do not remember. The story of the piece, I was informed, was the history of two lovers of the same belle, one of whom she coquetted with, the other she loved and married. A