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CHAPTER VI.

Sacrificial stone. Curi-
Museum proper.

Visit to the National Museum and University. Bronze statue. osities of savage antiquity. Gallery of paintings. Library room. Paintings. Portrait and armour of Cortes. Helmet of Alvarado. Giant of Jalapa. A miniature representation of two silver mines. Indian relics. Conchology. Mastodon. Santa Anna's portrait. Former grandeur of the City of Mexico. Montezeuma's Managerie and Aviary. Floating gardens. Visit to Conde Peniaske's private museum. Philosophic apparatus. Paintings. Chinese transparencies. Carved picture. Bomb shell. Maquey book. Crystallization. Beautiful lady. Feast day of Guadaloupe. Ringing of bells and firing of rockets and cannon. Going to mass. Flags. Picture of the Virgin of Guadaloupe. Procession. Joseph, the Infant, the Virgin Mary. The multitude embracing the Infant. Origin of the Virgin Guadaloupe. Pueblo of Guadaloupe. Vifage of mounds. Multitude of people at Guadaloupe. Commercial booths. Dealers of Monte. Gambling priests. Roman Catholics of the United States, Europe, and Mexico. Habits of the priests. Wealth of the Church of Mexico.

HAVING had my curiosity somewhat satisfied, in my cursory ramble over the city, I felt desirous of witnessing whatever might be considered scientific or displayed the remains of antiquity.

I accordingly, on the 9th of December, visited in company with Mr. Green, (a promising young American, and Secretary of the United States Legation at Mexico,) the National University, which also contains the National Museum.

The University is near the Government Palace, and upon entering the great door way, the first object that met my view was the equestrian and colossal bronze statue of Charles IV. of Spain. Since the revolution the Mexicans, in their singular attachments and ideas for every thing republican, have denominated the statue the "Big Horse," and in the same spirit of patriotism, have removed the we ghty construction from before the palace, its original position, at an expense of twelve thousand dollars, within the court-yard, the place it now occupies in the National University.

This statue is boasted to have been originally designed

and cast by Tolsa, a Mexican statuary; yet with much apparent truth, it is contended that it was the workmanship of an Italian artist; be that as it may, it beyond doubt reflects much credit on the sculptor, whoever he was, and I have ever been impressed with the opinion, that nothing to be seen in Mexico can compare with it. The statue is said, with the pedestal upon which it is positioned, to measure about twenty-three feet. Charles IV. is represented mounted on the horse, with a wreath of laurel bound around his brow. He is in Roman costume, with a robe flowing over his shoulders reaching to the horse. In his extended right hand is a truncheon, and a sword on his thigh. The horse is represented as moving forward, with his right hind foot treading on a quiver of arrows. The design and execution of this colossal figure is said, by competent judges in such arts, to be as symmetrical and perfect as any to be found in any country. To me it had an imposing appearance, exciting more of interest than all the objects of the city together.

Under the corridor of the same court is the Sacrificial Stone of Montezeuma, besides many of his gods thrown conspicuously together, but which are said to have belonged originally to the sacred temples of the heathen monarch.

Although this stone bears the name of the Sacrificial, yet it cannot be the one as described by some historians, which had its position on the top of the great temple of Teocalli, for that stone is represented as having a smooth oval surface, so that when the victim was extended upon it, his breast was protruded, and the priest thereby was the better enabled to make the fatal incision, and tear the heart palpitating from the body. The stone now seen, must have been used in some other temple than that of Teocalli, as its weight would have been an ineffectual barrier to its high elevation on that temple. The diameter of this horrid stone is above nine feet, and three feet through. It is sculptured all round with representations of demoniac Indian priests

and unknown hieroglyphics, having some resemblance to those found in Yucatan by Mr. Stephens of New York. The level surface of the stone has singular figures cut upon it. There is a hole in the centre of about twelve inches in diameter and two feet deep; there were also trenches cut from this centre cavity to the outer edges of the stone. The hole, it is said, was intended to receive the blood of the human victim sacrificed on it; and the trenches served the purpose of conducting the superfluous gore from the centre, over the sides of the stone, for the additional uses of the priests. While casting my eyes around me, I could only regret to behold so many valuable curiosities of savage antiquity so indifferently preserved-being heaped together in piles, as if they were but the fragments of stone from a fallen wall.

From the court we ascended a flight of steps, which carried us on the corridor; and the first room we entered, was a gallery of paintings.

The portrait likenesses of this room consisted chiefly of presidents, politicians, generals, bishops, and priests of Mexico. Some of these paintings seemed to my comprehension to have been finished by masters of their art, and all of them were hung in elegant gilded frames. I have been informed, that Mexico once contained paintings of the best artists ever known to the world, but the priests, who left the country after the revolution, took with them the larger portion. These acts resulted in causing the Mexican Congress to enact a law, prohibiting a painting of any kind from being taken out of the country. But that was locking the door after the thief had made his escape.

From the gallery of Fine Arts, I was conducted into a capacious apartment called the Library room. I found in this the librarian, as I imagined, seated at a revolving wheel, deeply absorbed in reading newspapers. On our entering the room we requested permission to examine the library, which he politely granted, but without leaving his

seat to open the cases for our inspection, so intent was he in reading the news. As the case, however, had glass doors, we could easily read the titled labels of the books contained therein. The room was sufficiently large to have contained an hundred thousand volumes; yet the National Library so called, judging by the eye, did not possess more than two thousand. Nevertheless, some portraits and paintings were hung around the room, which exhibited appearances of great antiquity. The books, as far as I examined, proved to be mostly Latin and French works, for in an hour's inspection I did not meet with more than some half dozen Spanish volumes.

From the library room we entered the Museum proper, and it was a source of disappointment to find that that apartment likewise contained paintings which seemed as if they had been hung around the room more for the purpose of ornament, than of establishing a gallery of fine arts. And notwithstanding I had become fatigued by looking at pictures, I determined to give them an inspection, for the fact of their antiquated appearance. They consisted of paintings of the kings and queens of Spain; the viceroys, and bishops of Mexico. Amongst them was pointed out to me that of Ferdinand, as also that of Isabella. But that which chiefly attracted my notice, was one of Hernando Cortes, with the high forehead, and the countenance expressive of that firmness which bore him triumphantly through a conquest unrivalled in the history of the world. Under this portrait was the armour of Cortes which he wore in the heat and shock of battle, and from under which he so much gloried in calling upon his favourite saint "St. Jago," and then rushing on to the charge and the slaughter. The helmet of the Alvorado was also close by. I would suppose that there never had been but one giant in Mexico, from the fact that a full length likeness of one was hanging in the room. This giant had his birth in Jalapa, and measured seven feet in height.

Besides the paintings in this room, there was a miniature representation of two of the profitable silver mines of Mexico. They not only had a rich appearance, but were exceedingly interesting, from the well-arranged specimens of the different kinds of ore as found in the mines. These exhibitions not only showed the various strata of earth, stone and mineral, but intended to present the exact aspect of the excavations under the surface; and by an ingenious toy contrivance, the turning the wheel by which all the machinery used for bringing the heavy metals to the top of the earth would be put in motion-as also the labourers who were at work in the mines, with pickaxes and shovels; while, at the same time, the mules with their heavy packs would slowly move along like things of life.

By this happy construction, the looker-on could be saved the necessity and trouble of descending the shafts of the mines to examine the different specimens of mineralogy, and the modes by which such are disinterred. The mines intended to be represented are those of Rio del Monte and Friznillo. I have no doubt that if some of our enterprising Yankees had them, they would be sure of making fortunes by pedestrianizing the Union.

The remaining curiosities in this room consisted mainly of Indian relics, conchology, and the helmets and armour of the early Spaniards, all of which were badly arranged, if they could be said at all to have order. Among the Indian curiosities were vast numbers of stones, both great and small in size, said to have been the gods of the Aztics. Of that race of people it is said, that, besides the gods worshipped in their temples, every family, as well as every individual, was possessed of gods peculiarly their own, and regarded as the instruments through which only the greater divinities should be appeased. These gods are sometimes of the brute order, while others are of half human and half brute or reptile species. There was also to be seen every variety of rock, knife, and Indian point, besides as much

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