graphy to Nice, as the circumambient hills are nearer to the town; but it is destitute of accommodation. NICE is the great rendezvous of English invalids; and certainly it is a most lovely place. Enclosed, on the land side, by a semicircle of hills and mountains, it sweeps round the base of a steep rocky mount, which stands in the midst of it, on the very verge of the sea, commanding a beautiful and extensive view of land and ocean. On the Eastern side of the castle-crowned promontory, the little harbour of Nice lies secured from the storm by a pier-and from its Western base, a raised terrace or promenade, stretches along, and surmounts the sandy beach, for nearly a mile, sheltered by the town itself, from the Northern winds, and commanding a delightful view of the Mediterranean. Through the town, and somewhat parallel to this beautiful terrace, runs a mountain torrent, after rains; but whose bed is nearly dry at all other times. On each side of this stream, the usual 'Lung Arno-or rather 'LUNG PAGLIONE, forms other promenades, when that along the ocean is inconvenienced by strong Southerly winds. The old town, clustered round the castellated rock above-mentioned, presents a series of as narrow and almost as dirty streets as any small place in Italy can boast; but the Western suburb, called the CROIX DE Marbre, or more properly speaking, the ENGLISH QUARTER, contains handsome houses, and pleasant villas, which, in my humble opinion, are infinitely less adapted for protection against cold winds-in other words, for the preservation of invalid health, than the town itself. The line of houses directly behind the marine terrace, and between it and the PAGLIONE, is that which I would select, were HEALTH my object. But, alas! here, as well as elsewhere, fashion, and pride, and custom, too often interfere with more substantial and valuable objects!

As the climate of Nice, for phthisical invalids, is an object of interesting investigation, I shall here introduce an extract from Professor Foderé, of Strasbourg, who resided six years there, for his health, and who has published an able work on the Maritime Alps. At page 266, et seq., of the second volume, will be found the original, of which this is a translation.

"As tubercles must be considered the main cause of pulmonary consumption, and as a good system of hygiene is the best part of the treatment, it seems rational to enquire, in the first instance, whether a warm or a moderately cold climate be best calculated to retard the development of the said tubercles. From what I saw at Nice, I am convinced that the moderately cold climate is preferable to the warm, for phthisical invalids. It is much to be feared, however, that ROUTINE has too much influence in the choice of climate, on these occasions; and that neither patients nor physicians make themselves properly acquainted with the facts on which their selection of residence ought to be based. Yes, it is FASHION and CUSTOM which establish the rule; and perhaps it would be cruel to deprive consumptive patients

of the consolation of that hope which they so ardently entertain of preserving or prolonging their lives. This hope renders them happy during the whole of their journey to a foreign clime, and for a short time after their arrival at the place of destination. Such is the physical influence of this idea that they believe themselves cured-soon to be plunged in disappointment !”

Although I do not accord with Dr. Foderé in the abstract opinion that a warm climate is calculated to accelerate the growth of pulmonary tubercles; yet I have no doubt that it hastens the fatal catastrophe, after a certain period of their development, and especially after they have begun to soften down. Dr. F. gives the preference to Hyeres, which is three miles from the sea, and less exposed in Winter than Nice. "But, on the other hand," says he, “the vicinity of marshes, the tanks and salines, the nastiness of the streets, and the badness of the water, are great draw-backs on the salubrity of Hyeres." In fine, M. Foderé is at a loss to recommend any particular place for the consumptive invalid. Judging from his own feelings, he would prefer a sheltered valley, open to the sun, covered with vegetation, and abounding with herds. In such a locality, at least, he found that he could breathe freer, and enjoy better health than in any other.

My friend Dr. Clark does not draw a particularly favourable picture of Nice, as far as consumption is concerned. The mean temperature of Winter is 48°, or nine degrees warmer than London. But notwithstanding the sheltered situation of this town, and the beauty of its Winter climate, "it is (says he) by no means exempt from cold winds during the Winter, and still less so during the Spring."

"In consumption, the disease with which the climate of Nice has been chiefly associated in the minds of medical men in this country, little benefit I fear is to be expected. When this disease is complicated with an inflammatory, or highly irritable state of the mucous membranes of the larynx, trachea, or bronchia, or of the stomach, Nice is decidedly an unfavourable climate; and, without extreme care on the part of such patients, and a very strict regimen, the complaint will in all probability be aggravated by a residence here. Indeed, the cases of consumption which ought to be sent to Nice are of rare occurrence. If there are any such, it is when the disease exists in torpid habits, of little susceptibility, or not much disposed to irritation; and when it is free from the complications which have been just mentioned. Even the propriety of selecting Nice as a residence for persons merely threatened with consumption, will depend much upon the constitution of the individual.”

There is no doubt, however, that the change of air and scene-the novelty of a residence under the brilliant skies of this beautiful place—and the ability to be a great deal in the open air, must have very considerable and salutary effects on many people whose general health is deranged, but whose lungs are

not materially affected. HIS SARDINIAN MAJESTY was enjoying the air of NICE in preference to that of his capital of TURIN, and no doubt with advantage. The whole of the surrounding mountains, and even the hills close to Nice, were hoary with snow when I passed through-though December had not quite set in. The year 1829 was, however, remarkable for premature and severe cold, as I dearly experienced on the mountain of Finale, the ESTRELLES, and the cheerless plains of PROVENCE.

But it is time to take my departure from a place, where the beauty of the earth, the sea, and the skies, forms a striking contrast with that of the inhabitants. Men, women, and children are here as ordinary a race of beings as one would wish to encounter. In Italy-even among the bandits of Itri, Fondi, and Velletri, there is something interesting, if not positively handsome, in the black eyes, roguish expression, and killing looks of the women. But, at Nice, the stunted growth, the mahogany complexion, the distorted features, the nothingness of countenauce, and the pyebald head-dresses of the females, would sicken a sailor who had just arrived from a three years' cruise round the world, without ever seeing a petticoat.

NICE TO PARIS.

We started from Nice about mid-day in the stage, and drove over the long, narrow, and crazy bridge of the VAR, where we came into terrible collision with a huge English berline, stuffed, like Noah's Ark, with numerous bipeds and quadrupeds—with parroquets, pug-dogs, ladies' maids, and lazy footmen -together with a quantity of luggage, that must have gladdened the heart of every custom-house officer between Dover and Nice. On the western bank of this river, we once more set foot on LA BELLE FRANCE, and soon brought up at the DOUANE. But from us of the DILIGENCE, the keen-scented douaniers expected nothing but trouble for trouble-a species of commerce which they evidently disrelished-and, consequently, our baggage was dispatched with as much celerity as our passports, and we were en route in less than twenty minutes! We drove through the gates of Antibes before sunset, and, after threading the mazes of many wretched streets, were set down in a stinking yard, ankle deep in dirt, from whence we carried our trunks on our own shoulders to an inn, which was little superior to an Italian LOCANDA! The TABLE D'HOTE was marked for eight o'clock, and I spent two hours in perambulating the ramparts, and taking a farewell look of the mighty and snowclad Alps, of which there is a glorious view from the walls of this town. At the inn we found two tables-the superior one for the military mess-the inferior for the travellers, and other plebeians. The martial hauteur engendered by the long war has not yet entirely subsided in France.

I hardly know whether I ought to congratulate or condole with myself,

CONTINENTAL COOKERY.

247 that chance, in early life, gave me a peep at the " art and mystery” of cooking, which curiosity—foolish curiosity I allow-afterwards repeated and enlarged in various countries. One result was, a firm resolution never to put any thing into my mouth which had been touched by the fingers of the cook. This may look like self-condemnation to the doom of Tantalus-and so it proved on many occasions, as well as on the present! In England, however, one can always get an inside slice of meat, and the interior of a potatoe, to satisfy the demands of appetite. Not so in France or Italy. It is said, indeed, that every individual has a certain quantity of a certain article to consume in the course of his life—and the sooner the tribute is paid the better. I can swear that whoever sojourns in the aforesaid countries, will very soon liquidate this portion of his debts-whatever may be the case with his other pecuniary obligations! I had often seen the Bengal professor of culinary science grease the toast for his master with rancid GHEE, taken out of a kedgeree pot by means of a dirty piece of rag, or the equally dirty wing of a fowl-but that was cleanliness, compared with the revolting manipulations and unutterable combinations of a Continental cUISINE!

From one end of the long TABLE D'HÔTE to the other, not a single article untortured from its native taste, could I find, unless we except that horrible hybrid composition-the fat of a BOAR engrafted on the flesh of a BULLOCK— and misnomered BŒUF AU NATUREL! Where did Nature ever produce such a monstrous conjugation! Well! as I could get neither animal nor vegetable substance in any thing like a state of nature, I went to bed supperless, as one of the many penalties inflicted on me for my prying curiosity.*

* My countryman, Mr. Matthews, though, perhaps, much more observant, was much less squeamish about these matters. "The kitchen (says he) of an inn in Languedoc is enough to damp the strongest appetite. While the host, who played as many parts as Buskin, in the farce, was killing the devoted fowl, his cat ran away with the sausages intended to garnish it. Poor chanticleer was laid down to finish his death-song as he could, while the host pursued puss to her retreat, which was so well chosen, that a third of the sausages were gone before he discovered her. Puss, however, paid dearly for it in the end-for, in endeavouring to make her escape under a door, her hind legs and tail were left on the hither side of it, upon which mine host wreaked his vengeance by stamping most unmercifully. At last we sat down to Grimalkin's leavings, while the landlord contrived, some how or other, to furnish a very tolerable breakfast." If Mr. Matthews had seen the sausages made, he would have wondered how even Grimalkin could have taken such a liking to them! Poor puss must have had many a banyan day, such as I experienced at ANTIBES, before necessity compelled her to this unhallowed banquet on a French sausage!

Leaving Antibes before day-light, and with no great reluctance, we drove through CANNES, the scene of Napoleon's debarkation from Elba, and, after casting a look at the gloomy tower of St. Marguerite, a prison overhanging the sea, and in which two noted personages had had their residence-the man in the iron mask, and Napoleon's favourite Mameluke-we ascended the ESTRELLE mountains, where the cold was intense, the ground covered, in many places, with snow, and the scenery the most interesting of any I had ever seen in France. Descending thence, we crossed a plain to FREJUS, and passed under a venerable Roman aqueduct before we entered the town. Here we halted to dine; and here I almost expected to end my days with hunger-for nothing could I find on the table that I was able to touch! By dint of bribery and flattery, I procured half dozen of eggs-and as I was perfectly certain that the cook's fingers had not penetrated the shells, I was set up for the ensuing journey to Aix.

I have alluded, on a former occasion, to the indignity that was offered to one of the most delicate, useful, and retiring goddesses of antiquity, when she crossed the Alps on her way to the North, after the fall of Rome. It was at FREJUS I learnt the astounding intelligence that, in PROVENCE, no other temple than the fields, was dedicated to her worship! Napoleon, who resided three days here, previous to his embarkation for Elba, must have often blessed the Romans, as I did from my very heart, for having erected an amphitheatre in the neighbourhood-the ruins of which, will be visited by every traveller-from more motives than mere curiosity !*

In the whole course of my existence, I never spent a more miserable five days and nights, than those which were occupied in travelling, (with only one night's repose,) between Antibes and Chalons. PROVENCE is a disgrace to France and to Europe! I wonder where Mrs. Ratcliffe picked up her romantic and glowing descriptions of Avignon and Languedoc! Even Aix, the capitol, though rather handsome at a distance, is poor and cheerless when entered. The VENT DE BIZE was blowing bitterly, during the few hours I staid here waiting for the TOULON DILIGENCE-for there was no possibility of getting a place in the mails-and the boiling steam issuing from the middle of the principal street, or rather square of Aix, was the most comfortable spot I saw in PROVENCE. How this town, subject as it is to the cutting MISTRAL, could ever have been selected as a place for consumptive invalids from England, I cannot imagine. It is still more inconceivable that people

*"Three days did he live at Frejus before he sailed, and if one place was better calculated than another to give him a disgust to the country he was on the point of quitting, this little town might have been specially fixed on for the purpose."-Sketches of Italy, Vol. I. p. 108.