tial roast meat. Every lady and gentleman have their decanter of light Rhenish or Burgundy before them, which they drink without ceremony; and the more precious wines are handed round in the course of dinner. An attractive neighbour is thus the only possible diversion from the business in hand, which can happen at a German table. The Germans, in fact, dine as might be expected of people who do not breakfast-a meal much out of use with them, and rarely extending beyond a light milk roll, and a cup of coffee.

I confess I approve the ease and sociability of this system. Conversation flows on without interruption, and the guests enjoy all the indolent luxury of a banquet. The desert forms the conclusion of the dinner-and is not, as with us, a systematic recommencement.—It is soon dispatched, and the whole company rise-for the gentlemen have neither radicals nor parliamentary debates to discuss; and they prefer coffee, liqueurs, and the society of their ladies, to toasting them in bumpers in their absence. The Germans, though not invariably sober, and though often fond of society, do not ap

· COURT DINNERS.

23

pear fully to understand those social pleasures of the table, which, when enjoyed in moderation, must be admitted to be no contemptible attraction of English society. I believe the true relish for these "noctes cœnæque Deum" is peculiar to ourselves—

Prout cuique libido est,

Siccat inæquales calices conviva, solutus.
Legibus insanis :

Sermo oritur, &c. &c. &c.

I have seldom seen a foreigner who truly enjoyed this happy blending of the enjoyments of sense and of reason-when mind and body unbend and indulge together— when the wits are whetted through the medium of the palate-and the soul mellows and expands in sympathy with the luxurious enjoyment and ease of the corporeal frame. I believe England alone has had the merit or the guilt (which is it?) of producing a Thomas Moore, or I may add a Captain Morris-for Horace and Anacreon could not disdain either for a descendant. Schiller and many Germans have their convivial songs, but they are generally of a wilder

and more boisterous feeling, (though not without beauty) which is not quite akin to the true rational spirit of enjoyment which breathes in our Anacreontic poets, and animates some few of our choicest dinner tables. Shall I also confess it? I am John Bull enough to approve our English gothic fashion of the ladies retiring after dinner. The first half hour after the servants have withdrawn, I think, is that in which their society is most unrestrained and delightful. -After that, let them not despise high example :

With goddess-like demeanour forth she went
Not unattended, for on her as Queen,
A pomp of winning graces waited still.

There is something that admirably suits the retiring delicacy of female character in leaving the table before mirth and high spirits can have deviated into even a momentary forgetfulness of the respect due to it. The temporary absence heightens the charm of their society-and after an hour's politics, or grave discussion, the return to the softening influence and animating spirit of the drawing room is doubly sweet

GRAND DUKE OF HESSE.

25

-observe, an hour is all that I admit.

After that,

We may no longer stay-go, seek for Eve.

The Grand Duke of Hesse, now an old man, is prevented by infirm health from taking a part in the amusements of his Court. I had, however, the honour of being presented to him, and found his conversation, which he turned on the distresses of his subjects and those of neighbouring countries, owing to the failure of the crops of 1816, humane and sensible. He is pretty generally beloved by his subjects; though here, as in greater States, a dissatisfied opposition look for the remedying of every defect that exists to the golden accession of the Hereditary Prince. On some occasions, the Grand Duke has displayed much firmness of character. Unlike other Princes, he has always refused promises of constitutions to his subjects, referring them to the decisions and arrangements of the Diet. In times of scarcity he has been firm in preventing monopolies and exportations of grain; he long resisted the

alliance with the Imperial Protector of the Rhenish Confederation; and entered into it zealously when it was no longer avoidable. -His Government has the character of being mild and paternal; and many other German States would be happy in possessing Sovereigns equally moderate.

An attraction for which Darmstadt is deservedly renowned, is its Opera.-The Grand Duke himself is a profound musician, and to his enthusiastic taste and his superintending skill, the Opera owes its excellence and celebrity. Rehearsals constantly take place in his Royal Highness's Cabinet, at which he presides with the enthusiasm and the energy of a scientific musician. His Royal Highness never misses a night at the Opera, which is almost the only place at which he now appears in public-and his close and critical attention and well-timed expressions of approbation are the best encouragement to the excellent performers of his orchestra. The Theatre is small, and by no means handsome; a Decree for building a new and more splendid one has just passed the sign manual, to the great joy of the whole Capital. The