rition, fearing my readers might exclaim, "we start, for soul is wanting there."

There was not much change in the ladies' dresses during the early part of Queen Anne's reign; but soon after came two great changes. The first was the abandonment of the monstrously high head-dresses, and caps, and tower commode, for a low, natural, and elegant coiffure, which was praised by Addison in the Spectator. The second alteration was the hoop, invented by a mantua-maker named Selby, in 1711, and which continued a court appendage through several reigns. Its discontinuance is announced by Mr. Rush, the American ambassador, in his "Memoranda of a Residence at the Court of George III.," 1833. It was well observed, that what the females lost in height they gained in bulk; but the gain was similar to that of the foliage of the weeping willow-it was downward.

The author of the "Book of Etiquette," 1834, (and the writer responds to the description,) thus speaks of them "The hoop is laid aside, which I am sorry for, as, after all, it

was a beautiful relic of the olden time. To see a charming young lady rise out of her hoop was the prettiest sight in the world; it looked like a gilded barricade containing an angel."

A LADY WITH HOOPS, 1711.

The above cut will probably convey to the reader a better idea of the fashion, and more especially of the hoop dresses, at this period, (1711,) than would any description I could give.

Among the curious changes of this century, one cannot help noticing they wore their clothes very long. Short petticoats were of an after period, which made a witty wag observe:

"Of her fair legs she shows too much by half-
The small of both, and almost all the calf."

The highly accomplished Baron Goethe observes: "With regard to dress, neither fancy nor neatness is sufficient; it ought also to be graceful;" which idea had been previously expressed in the following couplet:

"Give me an air, give me a face,

That makes simplicity a grace." BEN JONSON.

The dress of a youth in the middle ranks of life is thus described in an advertisement issued in 1703. "He is of fair complexion, with light brown lank hair, having on a dark brown frieze coat double-breasted on each side, with black buttons and button-holes; a light drugget waistcoat, red shag breeches striped with black stripes, and black stockings."

COSTUME OF THE COMMONALTY TIME OF WILLIAM AND MARY.

The cut of the little girl will be sufficient, perhaps, for her, dress to be understood. Green say was used for children's frocks; also printed and glazed calico, made in London.

I will now give the prices of some of the apparel, which, compared with the prices of the same articles at this time,

cannot fail to excite both wonder and surprise; verily, a full furnished wardrobe of that day contained a pretty little fortune.

The durability and strength are also very remarkable: some years past, on a visit to Baginton Hall, Warwickshire, I put on the robe of Mr. Bromley, who was speaker of the house of commons in Queen Anne's reign. It was of black velvet, lined with taffeta, and loaded with most costly gold lace and brocade: the colours, although more than one hundred years old, still were good.

The lace chamber, on Ludgate Hill, advertised, in 1710, one Brussels head, £40; one ground Brussels head at £30; one looped Brussels head at £30. Various wig-makers advertised them from five to forty guineas each. In the "Original Weekly Journal," 1720, it is stated that the hair of a woman who died at the age of 107, being perfectly white, was sold to a periwigmaker for £50. A damask table-cloth at that time cost £18. Counterpanes from 50 to £100, quite ordinary prices. Drayton gives the following description of one on a state bed,

"On which a tissue counterpane was cast,
Arachne's web the same did not surpass;
Wherein the story of his fortunes past

In lively pictures neatly handled was."

Fine linen, made at Ipswich, sold at 15s. an ell.

Lady Wotton, at the marriage of the Princess Elizabeth, daughter of King James, wore a profusely embroidered gown worth £50 per yard. Lord Montague spent £1500 on the dress of his two daughters.

GENTLEMEN'S DRESSES.

"Whether the 'great one's' sinner it or saint it,
If folly grows romantic, I must paint it." POPE.

"Fox,

THE English people have always been fond of furs. lamb, and sable skins were used for facing clothes, but the latter were restricted to the nobility; 1000 ducats have been given for a facing of sable skin; a suit trimmed with this article was the richest dress worn. ""* This writer might also have noticed that the gowns of the common council and the mayors of the cities or towns were usually trimmed with the fur of the martin cat, that being the handsomest native fur.

Gives kindly warmth to weak, enervate limbs,
When the pale blood slow rises through the veins."

* Malone.

WARDROBE OF A COUNTRY GENTLEMAN.-Extract from a will, dated 1573, in the prerogative court of Canterbury :

"I give unto my brother, Mr. Wm. Sheeney, my best black gowne, garbed and faced with velvet, and my velvet cap; also I will unto my brother, Thomas Marcall, my new sheepe-colored gowne, garbed with velvet and faced with cony, (rabbits' fur ;) also I will unto my son Tyble my shorte gowne, faced with wolf and laid with Bellement's lace; also I will unto my brother Cowper my other shorte gowne, faced with fox skin; also I will unto Thomas Walker my night-gowne, faced with cony, with one lace also, and my reddy (ruddy) colored hose; also I will unto my man Thomas Swaine my doublett of canvass that Forde made mee, and my new gaskins made by Forde; also I give unto John Wildinge a cassock of sheepe's colar, edged with pont's skins; also I give unto John Woodlie my doublett of fruite canvass and my hose, with fryze bryches; also I give unto Symonde Bishoppe, the smith, my other fryze jerkin with silk buttons; also I give unto Adam Ashame my hose with the frendge, (fringe,) and lined with crane-colored silk, which gifts I will to be delivered immediately after my decease."

Harrison, who wrote in 1580, complains that the gaudy trappings were coming into the rural and mercantile world. He says: "Neither was it merriere with England than when he was knowne abroad by his own clothes, and contented himself at home with his fine carsie hosen and a meane slop, his coate, gowne, and cloake of browne, blue, or puke, (puce,) with some prettie furniture of velvett or furre, and a doublette of sadde tawnie or black velvet, or other whalie silk, without such garrishe coloures as are nowe worne in these daies; and never broughte in butte bye consent of the Frenche, who thinke themselves the gayest men when they have most diversitie of jagges and change of coloures about them."

In 1582 Queen Elizabeth issued a proclamation regulating the apparel of the apprentices. "They were not to wear any apparel but what was given by their masters; not to wear a hat in the city, but woollen caps without silk; to wear no ruffles, cuffs, loose collars; no doublets but what were made of canvass, fustian, sack-cloth, English leather, or woollen cloth, without gold, silver, or silk; to wear no other coloured cloth or kersey in hose or stockings than white, blue, or russet; to wear little breeches, same stuff as doublets, without lace or bordering to wear no swords, daggers, nor other weapons, but a knife; neither a ring, jewel of gold or silver, nor silk in any part."

There was also an order during her reign relating to the dress, the beards, and the hair of the great lawyers.