The Tailer and Cutter, And London Art Fashion Journal, FOR THE PROMOTION OF THE ART AND SCIENCE OF CUTTING AND TAILORING, PUBLISHED BY THE PROPRIETORS, THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY LIMITED, No. 6. 93 & 94 DRURY LANE, LONDON, W.C. To whom all communications must be addressed. JUNE, 1891. Illustrations of British Costume. FOR SUMMER 1891. The present issue contains the third of our series of large coloured Plates. At a first glance, and overlooking the colour and material, these two Morning coats might be pronounced alike, or nearly so, both in cut and style. A closer inspection however will show a very material difference. As we have previously stated, these large figures are prepared and published, as much by way of object. lessons in Art Tailoring, and Style, as for Plates of Fashion, and we have placed these two Morning coats-or we should rather say, dresses, for we must treat each dress as a whole -together, to give an opportunity of pointing out their special features and characteristics. FIGURE 1-Shows a suit of "Dittos," exactly as now being worn. Tweeds, Saxonies, and kindred materials, of a warm brown colour, with checks more or less subdued, are at present the popular, or rather, fashionable idea as to material, and this is the style in which they are being cut and made up. The top button is sufficiently lowered to show a fancy scarf. While the coat usually buttons one as shown, it can button either two or three. The front runs from the top button to the bottom of skirt, without showing any sudden run off at any point, and still the vest is shown quite as much as is consistent with good taste. Some little care is necessary to produce this effect. The waist is from to inch longer than the coat on figure 2, while the skirt is from 2 to 3 inches shorter, the pockets being in the waist under flaps. As this material will not bear stoating, the edges are seamed, turned inside and double stitched narrow. These are the leading features of this dress. The trousers are carefully adjusted Vol. 26. to the present fashionable width, which is 19 knee and 17 bottom. This FIGURE 2.-While the dress on Figure 1 may be termed morning or holiday dress, that on Figure 2 may be classed as full dress for any occasion excepting balls and parties, when the regulation full dress is worn. is also a good representative marriage costume, the Morning coat now playing quite as frequent a part at these ceremonies as the Frock. Coming to details, the revers are in the Frock style, faced with silk, the top button being lowered sufficiently to give effect to this arrangement. The run of front differs from that of Figure 1. Though not very suddenly, the front runs off more suddenly from below the second button than the coat on Figure 1, which is continued to the bottom of skirt, and which, being about 3 inches longer than that of No. 1, gives a distinctive character to the coat. The fancy trousers and vest are suitable to this dress. As we have stated, this Plate will form a study in Art Tailoring for those who wish to perfect themselves in this important branch of their craft. Plate of Three Figures. Though, as we write, we are still anticipating warm Summer weather, the time has come when, if we are to publish Summer dress at all, it should be in June. Doubtless Summer will have come when this Plate reaches the hands of our readers. The attire on the two gents on this Plate is quite in keeping with Summer. It is but a very few years ago that fashion seemed to demand that coats should be worn buttoned all the year round. During recent seasons, in the hot weather, coats were almost universally worn open. This gives a chance for the display of the fancy rests which have recently become a feature in gents' Summer attire. The D.B. continues to be popular; this with the no-collar vest are at present the leading styles. The materials and patterns for vests are very large and varied. Large numbers are being made. from white woollen material, with diamond spots and very small flowers. There is nothing special about these coats calling for remark. FIGURE 1 shows that the fancy vest has also become a feature in Ladies' dress, the jacket and vest as here represented being at present very fashionable. Ladies' Jackets continue, and are likely to continue, to be made long. Skirts plain in front and large plaits behind. Plate 3. Sporting and holiday attire, which has now become a necessary part of every wardrobe, has indeed become a comparatively new and special branch of tailoring during the Summer season. Here, then, is a Plate specially devoted to this class of garments. The Norfolk Dress, both for ladies and gents, still retains its popularity. It is suitable alike for holiday attire and sport of all kinds. Our Plate shows the style in which they are got up for both sexes, also specimens of the material from which they are being made. All the details are clearly brought out on the Plate. Systems, with Plate of diagrams for producing the Gents' Norfolk and Knickers, will be found in the present issue. OUR FULL SIZE PATERN. GENTS' COVERT COAT. The pattern of a Covert coat will, we feel sure, be very acceptable to our readers at this season of the year, as it is the style of overgarment that receives the largest share of patronage for Spring or Summer wear. Its special features are so well known, that it will only be necessary for us just to mention them to at once recall them to our readers' minds. The length is usually from 32 to 34 inches long; the seams are strapped or slated; vents are left at the bottom of sideseams; the cuffs are usually finished with five rows of stitching. The fly front is the invariable finish to the front, and a tab is generally put under the collar. The material mostly used is drab Venetian. The pattern is cut to fit a well proportioned figure of 36 breast and 32 waist, the measure taken over the vest. The buttons would stand about 3 inches from the edge. Scientific and Practical, Illustrated by Four Engraved Plates of Diagrams. www SELECTIONS FROM THE WORKS OF OLD AUTHORS. Thomas Oliver, 1840-1852. Thomas Oliver is one of the best known and most famous of authors, whose works on cutting were introduced to the Trade during the last 50 years. Mr. Oliver though an American, was well known in England, and in all probability, there are yet to the fore many who can call to mind his genial features, and stalwart frame, and may have attended some of the lectures on practical cutting which he delivered in London, Manchester, and other provincial towns in England. In the exhibition of 1851, Mr. Oliver occupied a space, where his works were shown, including sets of graded models of different kinds of garments; these were cut in varied coloured paper, and when one model was placed on another, the exactness of the grading was shown to perfection. Oliver's Transfer. Plate 21. This mechanical arrangement was given in " The Author's Masterpiece," and registered at New York by his son in the year 1852. By the aid of the instrument the shape of the body of whatever form it may be, is claimed to be obtainable and transferable on the cloth or paper, and a perfect fitting garment produced, In practical application the invention failed to realise the special merits claimed for it. The Transfer is made of copper bars so arranged as to slide up or down, contract or expand in either horizontal or perpendicular direction to suit the different figures to be measured. In the shaded section where A is placed, is a slide, the perpendicular bar G H being secured at G ; section R will slide either in or out, so that bar H falls close to the back scye, and bar I rest close at B. The figures on section R when drawn out, will show the distance I and E are to be apart. Knobs are secured on different parts of the instrument on which the measuring tape is to be fixed for the purpose of measuring the distance from one station to another, as indicated by the double lines on the diagrams. A leather strap in which eyelet holes are made, forms a part of the machine. This is required to fasten the instrument on the body, the end is fastened on the knob at L, passed round the body, and fastened on the knob at P. Section S contains a slide on which inches are marked, so that the end at I can be adjusted to suit the side length of the body, and the waist suppression fixed by a measure from J to K. The knobs, or stations from which measures are to be taken are 5 in number; to these others are to be marked, one on the collar seam where segments 1 2, and 3 4 are intended to intersect, centre of back at N, and natural waist length at K. There are three measures to which special attention is to be paid. These are, from H at centre of back-scye at H to K at natural waist length, and the |