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PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY, LIMITED

93 & 94 DRURY LANE, W.C.

Jun 18, 1934

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PRINTED BY THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY LIMITED, 93 & 94 DRURY LANE,

LONDON, W.C.

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INDEX TO VOLUME XXV.

PAGE Three Trouser Systems

130 Knickerbocker Breeches

153 Madison's System

172 The Trouser Problem-Old and New Styles

199

Defects, Remedies and Remarks

on Trouser Cutting.

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132

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12

COAT SYSTEMS.

PAGE The Deltoid System

28 An American System

33 Lounge Coat by the C. P. G. System 80 C. P. G. Morning Coat

104 Covert Coat

128 Shoulder Measures Applied to Cutting by Block Patterns

129 System by “ Teal Fly ”

129 A Cape System ..

131 Eton Jacket

150 Cycling Suit

151 Gent's Norfolk

152 Mr. Madison's Sleeve System 154, 241 The Sleeve Problem

170 Shoulder Measure System for Overcoats

175 Newest Style of Övercoat

194, 217 Seamless Chesterfield

219 Shooting Coat

219 Defects, Remedies, and Remarks

on Coat Cutting. The Left Skirt Winging Fulness in Stont Men's Overcoats 22 Breast Measure Allowance for Chester

field and Reefer Back Skirt too Long Toxteth System for Large Sizes

22 To Produce Reefer from Lounge Pattern

22 Position of Buttons

22 Measures and Allowances Extra Time for Corded Edge Velvet Collar for Overc 'ats

22 The “C. P. G.” System Explained 23, 76, 97, 98, 123, 146, 147, 189, 190,

191, 215 Opinion of Systems and Patterns, 23,

132, 146, 167 Straightness and Crookednes Depicted 23 Length of Shoulder for Erect Figures 23 Creases at Neck and Front of Scye.. 23 To Care Kicking Away at Waist

24 Large Shoulders

24 Polyt-chnic System.-- Defects and Remedies

26, 47 Frock Coat for Stout Man

35 Practical Cutting by Alonzo

44 Falling and Stretching Seams

47 Defective Collars

47, 75 Sleeve and Soye Measures

48 Wampen without the aid of Graduated Tapes

54 New D.B. Morning Coat by C. P. G. System

55 Coat Standing off side of Neck 55, 111 Defects in Fitting of Lounges Inverness-Width of Front Edge of Cape

75 Defective Fitting Overcoats ::

75

PAGE Measuring for Eton Jacket

75 Explanation of “Old Thirds” System 75 Proportionate Measures for Small Sizes

76 Sleeve Cutting

84 Reducivg and Enlarging Coats

96 Putting Cord on Edges

97 Creases in Military Frocks

97 Tight Sleeves in Melton Overcoat 97 Use of Upper Shoulder Measures 97 Creases in Chesterfield

98, 147 Back of Morning Coat too long

99 Alteration for Extra Erect Figure 99 Wampen's System Explained

99 Should Shoulder Seam be Hollowed 99 Loose Hanging Coats

100 The Deltoid System Explained 110 How to Cut Lapels Fulness at Top of Sideseam 146, 166 Measures for Inverness

146 Should Dress Coat be Cut to Button 147 Width of Back Scye

147 Official Regulations for Tunics

166 To Ascertain Neck Measure

166 To Ascertain Natural Waist

166 Lounge Creases at Natural Waist Line

167, 188, 251 Pitch of Inverness Capes

167 Uneven Shoulders

188 Abnormalities

188 Coat Too High in the Neck

188 Padded Shoulders

189 The Sleeve Problem

189 Defective Coat for Hunch-Backed Man

189 What is Front Shoulder Measure 189, 190 Soye too Tight ..

189 The Effect of Alterations

189, 190 To Provide for Round-Backed Cus. tomers ..

190 How to take Shoulder Measures

190 How to take Cross Measures ..

190 Wing of Highland Cloak going to Centre of Back

215 To produce Ease in Scye

215 Loose Skirts-Morning Coats

221 Matching Checks in Back of Lounge 239 To Provide for Corpulence

239 Creases across Back when Sitting 259 Creases on Skirt of Morning Coat 259 Closeness of Fit in Lounge

How to close legs--Federation System 7 Cure for Knees Bagging

17, 167 Safest Way to get Length of Leg 22 Surplusage in Lap

22 Academy System-Fulness at Bottom 22 Opinion of Systems and Patterns

23, 76, 98, 146, 147, 166, 199 Tightness at Fork

23 Fly Pouching Open

23 How to Alter for Bell Bottoms

24 Defects in Fitting

27 A Cutter's Success with Trousers 41 Matching Checks and Stripes

48 C. J. W-'s System explained

73 Economy in Trouser Cutting

75 Providing Dress Academy Trousers 75 A Double Balance System

75 Taking Seat Measure

75 Breeches-Extra Length for Felling 76 Cause of Creases and Horse-shoe Folds

97, 98, 123, 167 Fronts of Whole-fall Trousers 97, 98 To ascertain Seat Measure

99 Alteration for “ pigeon-toed

:: 99 Waist Suppression

99 Openness and Closeness Investigated 106 Too Long Behind

146 Creases at Back of Thighs

146 How to Cut Knickers and Spats 147, 167 Rising at Bottom

147 Should Fronts be Hollowed

147 The Federation System Explained 166 Stretching Topsides below Knee 156 How to find Seat Line

167 A Defect and Remedy

171 Fulness between Knee and Fork 189 Creases just above Instep

188 How to Prevent Tightness at Seat 190 Infallible Remedy for Baggy Knees.. 190 How to Alter for Baggy Knees

215 Creases from Seat to Knee

215, 239 Trousers wanted Exclusively for Sitting

259

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259

TROUSER SYSTEMS

VEST SYSTEMS.

56

Gentlemen's Riding Breeches and
Gaiters

36 How to make a perfect System

85 Systems by Glover and Forward 102 Practical TrouserCutting-Corpulency 107 Spats and Leggings

110 Coachmen's Gaiters

130

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PAGE

46, 84

Defects, Remedies and Remarks on Vest Cutting.

PAGE Oreages across Front

97 Opinion of Pattern

98 How to Cut Roll of Dress Vest

99 Alteration for Round Shoulders 147 Alteration for Flat Chest

147 Cause of Creases at Sides

167 Creases down Front Shoulder

215 Parisian “ boom " in Waistcoats

238 Length of Shoulder for Stout Man 239 How to Cat Back-Cutter's Guide System

239 Position of Waist Seam

239

FULL SIZE PATTERNS.

PAGE Boy's Chester

2 D.B. Frook

26 D.B. Morning Coat

50 Fashionable Lounge

78 C. P. G. Morning Coat

101 Trousers by Mr. Phillips System

126 Knickerbocker Breeches

150 Norfolk Jacket

170 Gent's Chesterfield

194 Fashionable Reefer

217 Fashionable Inverness

241 D. B. Chester Ulster

261

Sheffield

39, 72, 209, 255 Manchester Edinburgh

46 National Federation Annual Conference

61, 87 Newcastle-on-Tyne

96, 255 City of London Master and Foremen's Society

184 Dundee

254 COMPETITIONS.

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SERIAL ARTICLES.

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The Cutter's Practical Guide for the
Cutting Board 8, 80, 81, 126, 150,

173, 243, 267, 268 The Tailoring Trade in Russia 16,42 Our Legal Column 24, 48, 100, 123,

167, 191, 214 Notes of the Month .. 45, 145, 153, 214, 259 Technical Education and Trade Reform

37, 59 A Retrospect-By a Master Tailor 120, 132 Three Months at the Tailor and Cutter Academy

162, 176, 230, 245 Our Woollen Drapers and the New Season's Goods

236, 257

Necessary Measures

23 Quantity of Material for Costames, &c. 23 Jacket Creeping up from Bottom of Waist

47 Price for Making Newmarket .. 75, 99 Cape too Tight at Shoulder

76 Soale of Measures

83 Latest Style in Ladies' Jackets 127 Lining for Bodice

146 How to Measure for Jacket ..

146 Measures for Dolman

166 Price for Making Short Jacket

167 Shoald Shoulders be Stretched

239 Position of Hindarm Seam

259

The Prize Coat

12 A National Garment Competition 15, 62 Glasgow Local Competition

68 Remedies for Defects in Coats 145, 256

EDITORS' TABLE. Replies to Miscellaneous Enquiries. Material for Dress suits

22 Address of Society's Secretary 23, 97, 215 Hints on Liveries

48 How to Take Smell from Cotton Cord 98 How to take Shine off Ribbed Cloth 98 How to Raise Pile of Plush or Velvet 100 Assistant's Wages

147 Price of Graduated Tapes

147 Price for Trimming and Cutting various Garments

147 State of Trade in the Colonies 147, 215 Where to obtain Special Made Busts 147 An Attitude Indicator

147 The Custom of “Cribbing”

188 Remedy for Silk “ Snarling"

189 Workmen's Liabilities

189 How to Cut Block Patterns

190 The Quickest Made Coat on Record 190 C.J. W.'s Trouser System-Deviations 221 Should the Master or the Cutter provide Shears, &c.

239 Graduated Tapes for Trousers

259 Graduated Tapes—The Unit" Explained

259 To Waterproof Shooting Breeches 259

TRADE NEWS.

ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE

CURRENT FASHIONS.

MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES

AND LECTURES. The New Year and a New Volume 1 Shoulder Measures Applied Lecture on Ladies' Garments

9 Successful Agents in Cleaning Clothes 20 Coat Cutting by Shoulder Measure 30 What is a Good Week's Work

47 Materials for the Spring Season

50 Federation Conference

51 Where is the Committee

73 Glasgow and the Federation Conference

74 An Ideal Cutter

78 Aspirants to the Cutting Room

79 Visit to a Technical College A Prize Competition

90 Mr. John Anderson-A Sketch

118 Address by Mr. Shaw

119 Technical Education - The More Practical Course

121 System for Cap

139 Through the Hills and Dales of Derbyshire

184 Testing Black Cloth Dyes

184 Musings

187 A Combination Crayon-holder and Tracing Wheel

187 A Shirt System A Brown Study

203 Suggestions on Buying for Stock 215 A Plea for Technical Recognition 222 A Cutter's Holiday

223 Art in Relation to Tailoring

247, 271 West End Notes

262 Shoulder Measure Applied to Ladies

265

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25

Chesterfields-Back and Front View 2 Frock Cout and Ladies' Ulster

2 Ladies' Winter Garments

2 Sir William Harcourt

25 Lady's Ulster and Gent's New D.B.

Coat Equestrian Costume

25 Miniature Plate for Spring and Summer

49 Earl Cowper

49 Styles for Spring

50 Professor Max Müller,

77 Lord Rosebery ..

77 Youth's and Juvenile Plate

77 Six Figure Plate of Summer Fashions 101 The Emperor of Germany

125 Three Figure Plate of Summer Fashions

125 Promenade Dress

125 Special Garments - Plate of Six Figures

149 The Earl of Morley Large Plate-Twelve Figures

169 Livery Plate

169 Large Coloured Plate ::

193 Miniature Plate for Autumn and Winter ..

194 Winter Plate of Five Figures

216 Youth's and Juvenile Plate

217 Large Coloured Plate

240 New Styles of Vests

241 Five Figure Plate

260 Do. Do

261

196

The New Log Movement in Man. chester ..

14, 19, 44, 140 The Federation Movement - Trade Reform

87 The New Scotch Time Log

92 Proposed New Log for Manchester 94, 114 Amalgamated Society's Log ..

94 The West End and the Sweating System

95 East End Tailors and the Middleman

96, 112 A Hint to Employers

111 Convention of the American Foremen's Associations

112 Strike at Sheffield

116 The Amalgamated Society's Report 116 The Dispute at Glasgow 121, 122, 145 The Sweating Committee's Report

134 Meeting in Edinburgh ..

144 Sweating—Can it be stopped .

:: 158 Israel in Manchester

159 The Amalgamation of Master Tailors

160, 182, 204, 208, 224, 225, 252 Employment of Day's Wagemen 183 Tailoring in America

115 Notable Men of Our Trade

202 Important Conference at Liverpool.. 204 The American Delegate in England

209, 217 Important Confereuce at Manohester,

225, 252 Trade Dispute at Manchester 235, 253

169

SOCIETIES MEETINGS AND

PROCEEDINGS, Birmingham

3, 116, 255 Cardiff

9, 57 City or London Mutual Benefit

17 Hull

21 Gloucester and Cheltenham 21, 30, 52, 255

AND

LONDON ART FASHION JOURNAL,

FOR THE PROMOTION OF THE ART AND SCIENCE OF

GUFTING AND TAILORING:

PUBLISHED BY THE PROPRIETORS,

THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY, 93 & 94 DRURY LANE, LONDON, W.C. To whom all communications must be addressed.

ARTISTIC EDITOR-Mr. J. Williamson.

No. 1.

JANUARY, 1890.

Vol. 25.

THE NEW YEAR AND A NEW VOLUME .

Our present Part will fall into the hands of our readers The series of Plates upon which our artists are now enjust as they are anticipating Christmas festivities and gaged, for the ensuing season, will be found to surpass in home and family gatherings. We will add to these our artistic excellence anything we have yet issued. It is own hearty CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR'S GREETING, seldom one journal receives such unqualified testimony and the wish that the New Year, to all our readers, will from a contemporary as to the excellence of its productions be prosperous and happy. The present part also begins a

as the Tailor and Cutter is continually receiving-many new Volume. This naturally forms for ourselves a time

of the Plates which appear in our contemporaries being for special reflection, in reviewing the past and anticipa

direct reproductions of our own-and though the primary ting the future. Our retrospect of the past year is a

cause of this, no doubt, is poverty of original idea and pleasing one. Not only has our circulation been main material resource, it forms rather unusual testimony to tained, it has been considerably increased; which is a

the excellence of our Plates. satisfaction to us, and a matter for congratulation all

In the literature of the journal, several new features round. As our readers may easily understand, to sustain

will very shortly be introduced. While by no means overand continue to increase the interest in a technical journal looking the Scientific, our main idea in connection with such as this, with subject matter so circumscribed, re

these columns is, that they shall be found of real quires something both of ingenuity and energy of mind.

Practical value to every reader, so that every Part that This, of course, would be a simple impossibility but for

comes into their hands shall contain much that will assist the excellent way in which our every effort is seconded, them in their calling. and our ideas developed into practical shape, by our unequa

lled staff of artists and writers. The Plates which With the somewhat ripe experience of twenty-four appeared in our last volume have been uniformly pro years, during which we have piloted as many volumes of nounced to excel those of all previous volumes. This the Tailor and Cutter, we know pretty well the requirespecially refers to the Prince of Wales series of Plates, ments of the members of the trade, and their appreciation which appeared in the four last Parts from September to of high-class literature and art. We have also the susDecember. It is by such Plates as these, got up in the taining assurance, as we now launch the Twenty-Fifth very highest class of art and almost regardless of expense, Volume, that so long as our high-class productions are that we not only maintain our position but add largely every maintained, we shall have the sympathy and support of a year to the number of our subscribers. So it will continue. highly intelligent profession.

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