called, and finding me absent, left his card, together with a note, politely inviting me to dine with his family, en famille, the next day, Boulevard Saint Antoine, No. 7, Versailles. A card also was left from Mr. Ledyard, the Secretary of Legation, inviting me to call on him the next morning at his residence, No. 19, Rue Lavoisier. I accepted the polite invitation, and there had the pleasure of meeting my friend Mr. Cambreling, our Minister to the Court of St. Petersburg, then on his return home to the United States, who intended also, on that day, to be a guest of the Minister.

The rural and delightful abode of General Cass, with his true republican easy welcome of his visiters, made them, however unused to the strict etiquette of the day, feel perfectly at home; and his amiable lady and accomplished daughters assisted in making their chateau at Versailles, a second Paradise. Hence the resort of all citizens, as well as strangers, who had the least claim to the honour of an acquaintance with the family. Mr. Ledyard, the Secretary of Legation, and son-in-law of the General, made himself also a great favourite, not only in imitating the General in his free affable manners; but his business-like habits made him particularly pleasing to all who had the pleasure of doing business at the American Legation.

CHAPTER XXVII.

Paris; General Interesting Remarks for the Tourist; Expense of Visiting the European Capitals, &c.; French and English Atlantic Steamers; Competition; Reduction of Fare; Police Spies; Autograph of the Prefecture de Police; Its Importance; Courtesy toward Americans; St. Cloud, Chateau, Grounds, Gardens, &c.; Napoleon's Observatory; Steamer to Paris; Party; High Houses; Inhabitants; Omnibuses and Police; General Post Office; Gambling Saloons in Palais Royol; Suicides, &c., &c.

Or the great number of tourists who annually visit England and the Continent of Europe, I feel convinced there are at least one third who leave the United States without any settled plan, without any fixed resolve as to their ultimate place of destination, leaving to chance, when they arrive, or to the advice of their friends, the choice of their future movements. Now, it unfortunately happens that every person who has travelled takes his or her own particular view, forms his or her own particular opinion of the gaiety, the dullness, the cheapness or the extravagance of the different cities and towns they may happen to visit, an inequality of fortune or of health often giving a bias, and colouring with gloom or brightness the different cities of magnitude they may be questioned about. To obviate, in some measure, these conflicting modes of obtaining information, "The Tourist's Guide" has been thrown hastily together, to point out the expenses to the economical traveller, the curiosities to be seen by the more inquisitive visiter, and to give a general view of society, and arrangements which may be obtained in the previous and future chapters by the more light-hearted voyager. Add to this, the best modes of travelling, and other subjects interesting to those who may wish to remain abroad one or more years. Such is now the great facility of travelling in England and on the Continent, and the moderate fare from place to place, that an economical tourist, who has had some little experience in travelling, and acquainted somewhat with what is termed the dignity of human nature, and feels a pride in ac

knowledging himself an American,—such a person, at this time can, for about $600, visit every capital in Europe, all England, Scotland, and Ireland, and make a pilgrimage to the Holy Land. The greatest expense at this time is in crossing the Atlantic,— which will be soon obviated by the running of French steamers, when the competition between the English and French steamers, and the numerous packet ships, will and must unquestionably reduce the present exorbitant rates to one third, or possibly one half, which will permit all persons then of moderate means and income, and of an economical turn, to have the pleasing satisfaction of visiting the Old World.

In 1835, a man would have been thought insane, if he had prophesied that in 1845 a person could leave New York, and in fourteen days sip his wine in Paris, Brussels, Rotterdam, &c., via Liverpool and London; yet we see it easily accomplished, without much fatigue. At this time, a person may dine in London to-day, and to-morrow dine on the field of Waterloo, Brussels, Rotterdam or Dublin; or, can breakfast in London, and dine on Bosworth Field, &c.; and all for a trifling expense, which will be given in dollars and cents, and the mode of conveyance, &c., in a future chapter, pro bono publico.

All the Cafés, Restaurants, Public Gardens, Theatres, Balls, Gaming Houses,—in fact, all places of public resort in Paris, have spies, under pay of the Prefecture de Police, who dress as gentlemen, engage in all amusements, sing, and sip their wine, without exciting the least suspicion, and freely converse on any and every subject, in order to mark their man, and watch their movements thereafter. The English and Spaniards are very closely watched : but the Americans, from the time our Minister, General Cass, took up his residence in Paris, are seldom noticed by these police agents; can go and come when they please, and at all hours, without a question;-for at this time the Frenchman looks upon an American as a friend, try to make his time pass agreeably when in their country, and will go much out of their way to do him a favour. Through the influence of an influential friend, I was furnished with the autograph of the Secretary of Police, while in Paris, which proved of great service to me, while wending my way, day or night, through the city, and at places of public resort; the agents knew I possessed this secret protection, and I was respected accordingly wherever I went; for in having that autograph, I could command the immediate service of one and all the police at any moment in Paris. Hence I had no fear of entering any place, or of being out late at night, or even crossing the bridges at midnight, from which my friends often cautioned me, as being very dangerous, as they were the lurking-places of robbers and assassins. In all my ram. bles, however, in and around Paris, I was not in any one instance,

ever molested, or received an insulting word; nor did I, in all the time, see any one intoxicated, or one asking alms; smiles of contentment seemed to pervade every countenance, rich or poor; all appeared satisfied, as if true happiness and contentment reigned within its walls, although

A motley group throughout its streets prevail,

And pleasure revels, though their funds should fail.

St. Cloud was the favourite residence of Napoleon, and being but a twenty minutes' ride by the railway, I took an early breakfast one pleasant morning in July, then walking over to Place Carrousel, stepped into an omnibus, and rode to the railway St. Cloud station, and in twenty minutes was at the romantic village of St. Cloud. Having received a letter of introduction to Captain L- of the Barracks, I inquired of a sentinel for his quarters, and found him taking his breakfast. He pressed me to take one cup with him, and he would be at my service for the rest of the day. Before visiting the Ancient Chateau, in which the unfortunate Napoleon loved to dwell with his Louise, we passed through the great court yard for the beautiful and romantic grounds beyond, and descending into a valley, we ascended Prospect Hill, directly in front of the Chateau, which is very steep, and over one hundred feet higher than its turrets; a plain then extends for many acres, covered with stately trees of every variety, and laid out in serpentine walks for miles. On the summit of this hill is an Observatory, one hundred feet high, built under the direction of Napoleon. You ascend within this tower one hundred steps to the cupola, or lantern, from which Paris appears stretched out in all its beauty and greatness, but a few miles distant. The view also of the village, the placid Seine, as it winds its course through it, and the highly cultivated vineyards, gardens, fields, with a full view of the Chateau, all combined, make it apparently one of the most romantic and picturesque places around Paris: and after a visit to this truly enchanting spot, who will wonder that Napoleon chose it as his favourite retreat, away from the bustle of court and camp, to enjoy rural felicity in the society of his Louise? The Observatory was Napoleon's resort after his afternoon's siesta, to glance at his beautiful Paris and surrounding country, through his pocket-telescope. It was while viewing Paris from this Observatory one summer afternoon, after a victorious campaign in Russia, and his Louise by his side, that turning with his usual winning smile to her, he observed, while his arm encircled her sylph-like figure, “My Empress, the time is not far distant when the whole European world must do homage to France, its beautiful capital be the depository of the arts, its court the resort of princes, statesmen and philosophers, its people no longer priest-ridden, its armies invincible, and

France be the pole-star on which the whole Christian world shall gaze in silent admiration and respect." The Observatory is occupied by an aged widow of a veteran who fell in Egypt, under Napoleon, on whom Napoleon settled a pension, with permission to reside in the Observatory during her life. She now has a table on which are refreshments at the door, and all who ascend the Observatory generally make a small purchase, also give her a few sous in charity. She showed us a neat gold chain, to which was affixed a crucifix, given to her by Napoleon, which she said was not in the power of the Bank of France to purchase while she lived, such was her veneration for his character.

We now took a ramble through the romantic grounds of the Chateau, then descending the hill, approached a small gate, made in a high wall, which surrounded the private gardens of the Chateau. Captain L- applied a small key, and we entered a garden covering an immense space, which might be truly compared with those we read of in the Arabian Nights; and well might the Empress Louise exclaim on leaving this magic spot, as Mother Eve on leaving Eden's fair garden-" Must I leave thee, Paradise?" The gate through which we passed, Napoleon always entered on his return from his walk in the grounds and visit to the Observatory. All that art and money could do, has been done to make these gardens indeed truly elysian to the very letter. I had seen the Royal gardens at Buckingham Palace, Windsor Castle, Brussels, &c., with a gay Court threading their cooling, luxurious walks, while balmy zephyrs, scented with thousands of variegated flowers, fanned gently their courtly brows, and bore with them strains of harmony from invisible bands, to soothe and calm the minds given to contemplation; yet, all this, when compared with the private gardens at St. Cloud, (now deserted in a measure,) appeared to me insignificant. The favourite walk and seat of Napoleon and Marie Louise, were pointed out, near one of the many beautiful marbled fountains, surrounded with exotics and statuary; among the latter were four spaniels, favourite animals of Napoleon, placed in different attitudes around the margin of a fountain, whose marbled extensive basin was made to overflow as a cascade, causing a soft, sweet, soothing, continued murmur; and the deep umbrage around, filled with sweet flowers of every hue, and from every clime, prevented the intrusion of the sun's warm rays.

Here, then, was the great Napoleon's resort, and, while listening to the murmuring fountain, gave up his gigantic mind to deep contemplation of the past, present, and future state of an empire which his mind and prowess had brought from chaos to its then enviable and prosperous condition. While seated alone in one of these moods of calm contemplation, the fair, delicate hand of his Louise was laid softly on the Emperor's shoulder; he rose, and drawing