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The Castle stands on the banks of the Avon; on all the other sides it is surrounded by a high impregnable wall, at each angle of which is a tower of one hundred and thirty feet high, the tops covered with lead, from which there is a delightful prospect. These towers remain perfect, all the rooms in good order, with embrasures to defend them from an enemy. From Cæsar's Tower there is a subterranean passage leading to the castle, and a branch leading some distance beyond the walls to the river-side. The castle is furnished in the most magnificent style, its walls hung with paintings from the old masters. The hall of armour is a rich treat for the eye of the antiquarian. Oliver Cromwell's sword, and the dirk and shield of William Wallace, are among the valuable and numerous relics that adorn the great hall. Queen Anne's state chamber is at the extreme east wing of the castle, on the first floor, and adjoins the grand reception saloon, from which a corridor leads to the sleeping apartment which her majesty occupied while honouring the castle on a special invitation. All the furniture remains in the same position as on the morning Queen Anne left the castle for Windsor. The state bedstead, with its gorgeous twelve feet posts, and triple drapery of satin, the luxurious arm chair, in which the Queen sat, with her embroidery, which she was working for the late Earl, may be seen in the chamber above. In this chair was I seated while engaged in examining her unique dressing-case. Even the ornaments on the mantel-piece remain as when the queen occupied the chamber. One suite of rooms, when thrown open, are three hundred feet, or the whole length of the castle, and most magnificently furnished with paintings, in rich and costly antiquated frames, from the floor to the ceiling. As the Avon passes beneath the stately windows of the castle, an unceasing soothing murmur is heard from an artificial dam, over which is a rustic bridge, made for effect, which adds much to the romantic view around this ancient castle. Its court-yard will hold several thousand troops, and from the gateway to the court-yard is a zig-zag passage, walled on each side, made for defence, a distance of three hundred yards. No tourist should leave England without a visit to Warwickshire, which can be reached from London in four hours, at an expense of one pound, by railway.

After presenting the veteran warder with the usual fee for his polite attention to us while at the castle, which had been refused with a smile from the rich livery servants in waiting, I walked to the hotel, and after partaking of a slight repast, was soon wending my way for Stratford-on-Avon, distance from Warwick eight miles, and in one hour and a half was set down at the door of the humble mansion in which the immortal Shakspeare first drew the breath of life. The aged housekeeper received me with a smile, and led

the way up the narrow stairway to the whitewashed chamber, where, seating myself in the bard's oak arm-chair, recorded my name in the journal which lays open on the deal table, then wrote the following impromptu under my autograph :

Immortal bard! thy name, embalmed below,
Shall longer live than monuments of stone;
No spot or blemish shall thy memory know,

While earth remains and genius claims her throne.

The walls were completely covered with names, so much so that it was some time before I could find a space to place mine own. Among them I saw the names of Van Buren, Adams, Livingston, Stevenson, Irving, Webster, Cambreleng, Vail, King, Willis, &c. &c., from the United States, also the names of many American ladies. Presenting the polite dame a small fee, I visited the ancient church, under which is interred the remains of the bard, by the side of his wife, and his bosom friend, John Comb. Two plain white marble slabs near the pulpit, show the spot beneath which lie Shakspeare and his wife. It being Saturday, the organist was practising for the Sabbath, which added much to the solemnity around, and created feelings not easily described by a fond admirer of the bard's productions. The organ is very large, containing three thousand six hundred pipes, and forty stops. By the invitation of Mr. L., the organist, I played a funeral dirge, giving the grand instrument its full powers, which truly accorded with my feelings at that moment, when so near the mortal remains of him who has earned immortality—a name perishable only with the globe itself. After a silent ramble through the ancient graveyard, filled with yew trees, I took my departure back to Coventry, where I arrived in time to take a social evening repast with my polite host of the "King's Head," to whom I tendered many thanks for his kind hospitality, intending to leave early the next morning for Birmingham and Gloucestershire.

CHAPTER XI.

Birmingham; Tall Chimneys; Public Buildings; Factories; Nelson's Monument; Churches; American Locomotives; English Prejudice; Amusing Chit-Chat; Astonishment of a Yorkshire Merchant.

On leaving Coventry, I took the first down train from London for Birmingham, distance eighteen miles, fare three shillings, time forty minutes. Birmingham is situated on the side of a hill, in a half circle, which has a very pretty appearance from a distance. Its numerous pyramidal chimneys, towering above all other objects, which are so common in all the factory towns in England, are seen from a great distance, and were it not for the dense volume of smoke ascending from them, as from the mouth of a crater, a stranger at first sight would take them for observatories. These chimneys, which are very expensive, are some of them one hundred and fifty feet high, yet they are required to be at least of that height on account of the atmosphere. The factories did not appear to be under full headway, as the orders from the United States, as the agent informed me jocosely, were like angel's visits. few and far between, of late. Immense quantities of cutlery and common hardware were piled up in the store-rooms waiting for orders, and there was much murmuring on account of the great increase of factories in the United States, and the neatness, combined with strength, of the articles manufactured, not made, said the agents by American workmen, but by English, many of whom were from Birmingham; and if it continued much longer, the factories in England might as well be closed, for they could not then find a market for what articles were on hand, on account of the competition in the United States, and the high prohibitory tariff. The town, however, appeared very brisk and neat; some of the shops, for splendour and stock, might vie with any in England; its streets are well paved and brilliantly lighted at night. All the hotels appeared full, and contentment seemed to reign every where around. I visited the beautiful Town Hall, Market House, High

School, and Churches, which are worthy of the tourist's observation. Also, the chaste monument to Lord Nelson, in bronze; the gentle eminence in the centre of the town, on which it stands, gives it a fine effect at a distance. Birmingham is a town of great antiquity, and noted for its hospitality and courtesy towards strangers, particularly Americans.

Finding letters here which required me to go to Bristol, I took an omnibus for the railway station, from which started the train for Gloucester, distance fifty-three miles, fare four shillings, time one hour and forty minutes. Having a little time to spare before the train set off, I went forward to see the locomotive, and was suprised to see on it, in large gilt letters, "Philadelphia;" on one other, "New York." This induced me to ask of the engineer if they were of American make, informing him I was an American, and going in the train. He said they were made in Philadelphia by Mr. Norris;-that eighteen had come out, and fine little Yankee horses they were-could beat the London train, giving them the start of a mile, and then pass them with ease. The driving wheels of the English locomotive are five and a half feet diameter-those of the American were but three feet, and I mentioned it to the engineer.

"Ah, never mind that," replied he, "you will soon see how she streaks it."

The bell striking, I took my seat with a gentleman and two young ladies, his daughters, from Yorkshire, who were also going to Gloucester. I informed them I was an American, which found was a good introduction, as is the case now all through England, and tends at once to lead to some inquiry as regards the United States, and will in many instances, as it has done, create friends, which has proved very advantageous to the stranger while abroad. We were proceeding at a very rapid rate, and as the gentleman and myself had been conversing on the great improvements of the age, on which he placed all to the credit of the English mechanic, and how much America was indebted to England for most of the vast improvements in which that country was at the time engaged. He suddenly and familiarly placed his hand on my knee, asked with a smile if we could travel at the rapid rate we were then going, on the rail-roads in America, and finished by observing, loudly:

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England, England, before all the world, for locomotives and railways."

"Yes," observed one of the daughters, “what would the world do without our little Island, for people seem to come from all parts of the world to even purchase their pins, needles, &c., and".

"Bless me," cried out her sister," we shall most certainly all be killed if we go so fast; do, father, speak to the agent, and”.

“Killed indeed," quickly observed the father, with a loud laugh of sneezing exultation, “English locomotives are like English blood horses: when once warm there is no stopping them; what say you, my friend?" again squeezing my hand with a knowing, inquisitive look.

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'Only, my dear sir, that the locomotive now drawing us at such a fearful speed, was made in the United States,—that is all," replied I, bowing to the ladies.

A loud laugh from the Yorkshireman and his daughters, followed my remark.

"Well said, well said-a good joke, indeed! An American locomotive on an English railway! ha, ha, ha! But, my dear sir, excuse me," continued the gentleman, "but I cannot help laughing to see you look so very sedate, as if you really meant what you said!"

“I do mean it, my dear sir,” I replied, "and will repeat the assertion, and on our arrival at the station at Glouce-ter, will also convince you of a fact, which you seem to doubt, and treat with ridicule."

The national pride of the Yorkshire merchant was roused, and silently opening a large pocket-book, took out a note of £100, saying:

"Excuse me, sir, but I am so positive that you are under some mistake, or have been misinformed, that I will place this sum against £5, merely for the joke sake, that it is not so.'

The whistle from the engine at that moment sounded, and the next minute we were at the station. After handing the ladies out, I observed to the father, smilingly, if he would accompany me, I would convince him of the truth of my assertion. The daughters also joined us, to see if there was no mistake;-and the passengers, hearing what had been asserted, followed also as unbelievers.

There stood the little puffing Yankee iron horse, with its keeper alongside, and the blazing letters, "Philadelphia," on its side. All seemed astonished, and many inquiries were made of the agent, who, observing their surprise, said, with a laugh

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Why, the company sent over to America for twenty at one order; we have a dozen on the road, and hope soon to have such fine little fellows on all the roads in England, for they go ahead, and no mistake, like those who made them."

All ended with a laugh. The Yorkshire merchant insisted on my dining with him at the hotel; and in the afternoon I accompanied his daughters through the city to make calls, and some small purchases. Their father presented me with his card at parting, with a hope, if I returned through Sheffield, not to fail in finding him out, and commanding his services, &c.

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