CHAPTER XII.

Gloucester: its Canal-Basin, Shipping, Productions; Ancient Cathedral; Paintings; Impromptu; Hospitals; Courtesy; Royal Exchange; Ancient Cathedral; Distinguished Persons; Hot Well; Clifton; Donkeys; Lady Coachmen; Stone Towers; Basket Ride; Fatal Accident; Steamship Great Britain, &c., &c.

GLOUCESTER, the ancient Gleva, is the seventh port in the kingdom as regards revenue receipts from imports. The whole country, from Birmingham to this ancient city, appears as a well cultivated garden, and the many picturesque villages, with flowergardens attached to each house, which we passed, add much to the beautiful scenery, for the eye of the tourist to admire, in the west of England.

Vessels of great burthen arrive here through a broad canal, communicating with the river Severn. The great basin, filled with shipping and smaller craft, with their masts towering above the surrounding trees, has a singular but pleasing effect to the eye of the tourist. The basin will hold one hundred vessels.

Great quantities of pins are made here. It is also celebrated for its cheese, which once took the lead in the American market. It has also several factories for the making of cloth, which still has the preference for gentlemen's wear in the United States. Its Cathedral is very ancient, in which is a noted whispering gallery, similar to the one in St. Paul's, London. It contains the tombs of Edward the Second, and Robert Duke of Normandy. Also, some rich ancient pictures; among them, "The Last Day" is preeminent, so much so to my eye and taste, that I took a seat near the old altar, and wrote the following impromptu :

THE LAST DAY.

The angel's trump strikes every ear,
Echoing along the vaulted skies;
The earth and planets disappear,
And chaos o'er creation flies.

The bursting tombs give up their dead,
And mountains melt with fervid heat,
The sea recedes in silent dread,

And millions kneel at Jesus' feet.
The earth, and all this mighty whole;
The sun, the moon, and gems of light;
These planets that around us roll;

All, all be doomed to endless night.
Jehovah comes-the clouds give way.
Behold His throne-'tis Judgment Day.

There are also several ancient and modern churches, which are indeed worthy a partial examination to one who has an hour to spare, and fond of antiquity. There are also three hospitals, all free to examine, exclusive of the poor-house, kept in the most admirable order, both exterior and interior, and will vie for comfort, good nursing, and regulation, with any of the hospitals in Paris. The polite attention to strangers by the stewards is proverbial. The whole city carries with it the appearance of ancient grandeur, which has a most attractive and pleasing effect, when coming from a modern city. England is certainly the country for an antiquarian to feast his eyes, and for calm contemplation, while reviewing relics of ancient date, which are constantly, while travelling, rising up before him, whichsoever way he may be inclined to go; and the people seem to take unwearied pleasure in pointing out all that is deserving of notice to the stranger, and their liberality and marked hospitality have no bounds.

From Gloucester to Bristol is thirty-six miles; and wishing to see the country, I took an outside seat on the stage-coach-also for variety sake-fare four shillings. The road is fine, the coachman always polite and attentive, for his own interest sake, receiving from each passenger one shilling, which is all the pay he receives, as no wages are allowed stage-coach drivers in England, by the proprietors, while the guard is well paid for winding his bugle on approaching a stopping place. An English coachman, dressed in blue coat, white vest, drab pantaloons, top boots, white gloves, with his hat cocked on one side of his head, and elegant mounted whip, feels proud on his throne, dashing at the rate of ten miles the hour over a beautiful road, and through a luxuriant country, laid out like a garden. They are noted for the care and kind attention to their horses, at all times and seasons, which is a good trait, and worthy of being noted to their credit.

The tourist will ofttimes see signs hung out with the following, in many of the country towns of England, viz.: "Liquors of all kinds, and of the best quality, sold here, with the privilege of being drunk on the premises." Where is Father Mathew?

On arriving at Bristol, I was taken, at my request, to the Royal Great Western Hotel, Park Street, College Green, which is the

most extensive and elegant in the town, and can fare as cheap as you please, paying for only what you order. No per diem charge, except for your bed-room. The proprietor is rarely seen about the hotel; all is conducted by his lady and two daughters, which is by no means unpleasant to the tourist seeking information in a strange land; for he will invariably find ladies in general more ready and willing to give information off-hand, than gentlemen, who are not willing to be asked questions which they should know, but do not know how to answer correctly. Bristol was once, for wealth and commerce, the second port in England. It is situated on the Avon, ten miles from its junction with the Severn, or Bristol Channel. The city is closely built, and business to me appeared brisk-all the shops well stocked-the streets cleanly and in good order, as well as the side-walks. It is one hundred and nineteen miles west of London, by the common road; by railway, one hundred and four miles. Our worthy consul, Mr. Ohaving gone to Liverpool, with whom I had special business, I was politely invited by the acting consul to visit the Royal Exchange and reading rooms, and my name entered with a free pass at all times; and many other like civilities paid me, which will ever be remembered with gratitude.

The Cathedral was built in the eleventh century; from its outward appearance, I should suppose it to have been built before the flood, and remained the last under the waters, before the sun was permitted to cast his beams through its beautiful painted windows. It however presents some splendid specimens of ancient Gothic architecture, which is seldom to be met with, and must be seen to be properly admired. Bristol is the birth-place of Cabot, who was the discoverer of America; Admiral Penn, Hannah More, Chatterton, Southey, and Coleridge.

There is a well called Hot Well, a mile below the city, of great purity and of much resort. In St. Vincent's Rock, above the well, are found those native crystals called Bristol Stones. The numerous beautiful mansions on the top of this rock have the name of Clifton, which is the chief resort of the aristocracy and gentry, on account of the salubrity of the air, and from the truly enchanting prospect, not to be equalled in all England, and had I to choose a place of residence in England, it would be Clifton.

I was much amused in seeing young ladies here mounted on donkeys, with a small boy behind the stubborn animals, on foot, whipping them along through the streets, the ladies holding on with both hands, laughing at the seeming ridiculous figure they cut in public. These animals, so common in England, are here harnessed to small open carriages, and have regular stands for hire, by girls who act as coachmen-sixpence a mile.

The Stone Towers at Clifton, and the passage from one tower to

the other in a basket, drawn over the dizzy height on a rope, being two hundred feet above the river, is startling to behold; and there are but few who dare attempt the basket ride. I was very desirous to cross over, but was persuaded not to make the attempt, as but two months previous the rope broke, and the gentleman from London who rode in the basket, dashed to pieces in the fall upon the rocks below.

I was invited to see the immense steamship Great Britain,* of three thousand five hundred tons, and from her construction, convinced she would not only prove a safe sea steamer, but make the run to New York from Liverpool in ten days in the summer months. Should the company reduce the present exorbitant price one-third, a full complement of passengers would always be in readiness to give preference to this noble steamer.

* Since lost on the coast of Ireland.

CHAPTER XIII.

Bristol; Donkeys not Taxed; The Reason; Immense Railway House; Mr. J; Great Western Railway; Improvement; Width of rails; Splendid cars; City of Bath; Agricultural Show; Nobility; Appearance of Bath; Splendid Mansions; The Crescent; Ancient Abbey; Its Monuments, Organ, &c.; Ladies' Shopping Coaches; Berkley Castle; Warder; Old Ale; Court-yard; Walls; Birmingham; Americans abroad; Boxmoor; Hampstead; Suburbs of London; Victoria Hotel, &c.

IT appeared to me there were more of those small stubborn animals called donkeys, in the county of Somersetshire, than in any other county in England, mostly owned by those in humble life, who add mainly to their daily support in various ways, by the employment of these useful animals. One great reason is, these animals are exempt from taxation, and the only thing free from being taxed in the kingdom. On making inquiry of the proper authorities, why these animals were not taxed, I was informed that, having the cross on their shoulders, a law was passed under the Catholic administration, centuries ago, that donkeys should for ever be free from taxation! This law never having been repealed, is the means of giving great pecuniary relief to those in humble circumstances; hence their great increase all through the kingdom.

I observed also, most all the church steeples in the country villages in England, had for a vane the bird that crowed when Peter denied his Lord, and was informed this was the sole reason for placing it in so conspicuous a place in the olden Catholic times: that all should see and take warning, as there was a law in those days, that these birds should not be molested in any manner, and a heavy penalty and imprisonment to those who intentionally injured or destroyed one.

While in Bristol, I had the pleasure of an introduction to Mr. J —, the president of the Great Western Railway, running up to London, who invited me to examine the station-house just finished. This building is four hundred feet long, and three hun