House on its banks, St. Paul's stupendous pile, and the light Gothic steeple of St. Dunstan's, in the east, are all embraced with one glance, and happily contrast with the former prospect. The tourist should not fail in ascending to the tower of Westminster Abbey, to behold the above sublime and picturesque prospect. Westminster Hall, near the Abbey, is the largest room in Europe. It is said 10,000 persons have been entertained within its walls, and it is used for Coronation feasts. This hall was built by William Rufus, and is where King Charles the First was tried and condemned to be beheaded. Carlton House, where resided the late Prince of Wales, is on Pall Mall, and the Marlborough House, now occupied by the Queen Dowager, is between Carlton House and St. James' Palace, also on Pall Mall, and are passed in going to Charing Cross, both of which I had permission to examine at my leisure.

On leaving Westminster Abbey, I retraced my way to Trafalgar Square, Charing Cross, on which stands the National Gallery, filled with choice paintings and statuary-admission free. After examining and rambling through the beautiful rooms, with a large crowd of both sexes, I called to see the Italian Opera House, corner of Pall Mall and Haymarket Streets, opposite to which is the beautiful Haymarket Theatre. The Opera House will contain about eight thousand persons. The Concert-room alone will accommodate seven hundred persons. There are five tiers of boxes, with a gallery. In the pit, near the orchestra, are stalls, holding one person, at one guinea each—the pit holding about one thousand persons. The boxes are private property, and are rented for the season. On introducing myself to the polite and gentlemanly manager, who was seated in his well-furnished office, and informing him from whence I came, and my great desire to see the interior of the Italian Opera House, of which I had heard so much in the United States, he immediately rose, tendered me his hand, and, after some little chit-chat, took me through the lower tier of boxes until we came to the Queen's box, into which we entered, and, pointing to her majesty's rich-covered chair, requested me to be seated, as he took the chair of Prince Albert, and witnessed the rehearsal then going on, which is the same as when before a full audience at night. Adjoining the Royal box is that of the Queen Dowager and Duchess of Kent, Victoria's mother, both furnished alike; attached is an ante-room, richly furnished. Leading to it is a private passage from the street, covered with costly carpeting, and its walls with crimson silk velvet with gold stars. Beneath the royal box is one called the "Omnibus," set aside for noblemen and other privileged characters, which will accommodate some twenty persons. The Queen's box adjoins the stage, or the stagebox. The manager, now calling an attendant, and excusing him

self with the grace of a Chesterfieldian, requested him to attend me over all parts of the house I wished to examine. After which, on entering the manager's office, he asked me if such dancing as I had witnessed a few moments since would take in New York. I observed that dramatic talent was then on the wane in the United States, and that light heels and short tunics had, together, kicked Bill Shakspeare out of the green-room, and while Orthography, Etymology, Syntax and Prosody were sneered at, a pair of ankles, a spider web dress and good figure were applauded, patronised to a fault, and almost worshipped, showing, in my humble opinion, a taste depraved indeed in this enlightened age. On taking leave, I was handed, as I thought, a bill for the next evening; on opening it, at my room, I found it was a bill enclosing two Opera tickets, with the compliments of the manager. I also found, on my table, a note, on the seal of which was the words "Stafford House." It was an invitation, from the Duke of Sutherland, to visit Stafford House, St. James' Park, the most splendid palace in London, and containing the most choice and valuable gallery of paintings in England. I will observe, for the information of the tourist, that all the places mentioned in this chapter, commencing with St. James' Palace, are within from two to ten minutes' walk of Charing Cross: that, placing himself near the equestrian statue of King Charles, he can have a view of nearly all of those noted buildings, and visit each as suits his time and convenience. This hint is worth remembering to one who has not much time to throw away in a city like London. Somerset House is an immense edifice of stone on the banks of the Thames, and is approached through an archway from the Strand, about half-way between Charing Cross and Temple Bar. Its terrace, which lies on the river, is very fine, and from which is a beautiful view of the Thames, with Blackfriars, Waterloo, and Westminster bridges. In the great Court, on which the building faces, is the Statue of George the Third. Somerset House is termed one of the wonders of the financial system of Great Britain in its various offices and departments. All the public buildings in Washington City placed together would not make so extensive a pile as Somerset House. No stranger can go through it without a guide, such are the numerous corridors, passages, stairways, &c.-In it are the Auditors of the Navy, Navy Department, Exchequer, Stamp Office-the latter alone employs two hundred persons, and brings in a revenue of £7,000,000 annually, and a tax of £4,000,000. The Secretary, as a very great favour, which is seldom granted, permitted me, with a guide, to witness the process of stamping. A steam engine is used, and ninety men and boys employed in stamping notes, bills, Victoria's head for penny letters, newspapers, &c. Some of the stamps cost £50 sterling. In an old lumber room was found, by accident, six two-shilling stamps

for America, which "stamp act" caused the Revolution and the loss of the provinces to England. The Queen was presented with one, which is now in a frame in Buckingham Palace. I tried to possess one for the National Gallery at Washington, but no money could purchase one. The Secretary said they were dear bought relics, and must be kept as a future warning to the coming generations. No one is employed in the Stamp Office without giving heavy bonds, and none are allowed to speak except on business. I was four hours in going through the building and examining its various departments; to fully describe, would take a small volume. Somerset House must not be forgotten by the tourist in London. See it by all means.

CHAPTER XVIII.

London; Mansion House; Court Scene; Lord Mayor of London; IIis Court Dress; Courtesy; The Woolsack; Baring, Brothers & Co.; Bank of England; Its Governor; The Fifty Dial Clock; Clerks; Management, &c.; Invitation to the East India House; Its magnitude; Governor; Museum and Sales-room; Paintings; London Custom House; Long Room; Directors; Number of Rooms; London Monument; Its height; Prospect from its top; The Mint; Coinage, &c., &c.

THE tourist while in London, should, before leaving his lodgings of a morning, make all his arrangements for the day, either on business, or in the pursuit of pleasure, by consulting his map and taking notes of the places he intends visiting, calculating their distance from each other, and the most economical way of reaching them in the shortest space of time;-by adopting this mode, he will save much trouble, time and expense, not only in London, but in all great places while abroad.

Having business with Baring, Brothers & Co., the Bank of England, and other places at the East End, I stepped into an omnibus going down Piccadilly, at the corner of Bond Street, and after slowly navigating our way through the Strand, Temple Bar, Fleet Street, &c., I stepped out at the junction of Cornhill and Lombard Streets, and was then within a few minutes' walk of the Bank, Exchange, the Barings, India House, Mansion House, &c., and having time, I seized a moment to call at the Mansion House to see the noble pile, and at the introduction of an influential friend, to pay my personal respects to the Lord Mayor of London.

The Mansion House is of stone, and stands at the west end of Lombard Street. This vast pile, from its situation, is not seen to advantage, owing to the flatness of the ground around it. It is the official residence of the Lord Mayor, in which he frequently gives sumptuous feasts to the aldermen and sheriffs, to which many noblemen of the highest rank are invited, and foreign ministers. The government plate in this house and furniture are of immense

value, and examined once a year from a schedule by an officer of the crown. A court, at which the Lord Mayor presides in state, is held here every morning for the examination of offenders, &c.

I had called at the Mansion House two days previous to my present visit, and finding the Lord Mayor very much engaged, left a card with a note from my friend. This morning I found him seated in open court on the woolsack, in full costume, with a large gold chain suspended from his neck, and the golden crown on the bench before him; the lawyers in gowns and wigs, all appeared busy in the trial of a woman for theft. Not wishing to wait, I stated to the sheriff my disappointment, and handing him a card, requested him to present it to his lordship on the adjournment of the court, and retired to the hall to examine its architecture for a moment. While doing so, the sheriff in full dress came out, and said he had presented my card to the Lord Mayor on the bench, who, on reading it, ordered him to conduct me to his presence. With great reluctance I followed the sheriff, who, with his staff of office, made the crowd give way, and following in his wake, soon stood before his lordship, who, rising, tendered me his hand with a graceful bend of his fine person, and insisted on my being seated beside him, during which, for a moment, the pleading ceased;-his lordship waved his hand, and the business continued. Many questions. were asked and replied to, when he proposed, if I was not otherwise engaged, to adjourn the court as soon as the trial then pending was concluded, and introduce me to his family in the house. This I objected to, politely observing to him my business with the Barings would not permit me that morning to have that honour, but would seize a more favourable opportunity when his lordship was more at leisure. On taking leave, he smilingly whispered while pressing my hand-"I hope, my dear sir, now you know the way, you will not make yourself a stranger at the Mansion House during your sojourn in London."

Here was an honour unexpectedly conferred on an American citizen for the first time, by the Lord Mayor of London, and one that will ever be deeply remembered. On a subsequent visit, I had the pleasing satisfaction of going through the saloons, rooms, halls, corridors, and examining the magnificent furniture, hangings, paintings, state bed-chamber, which is truly splendid and the great dining-hall and the beautiful architecture which met the eye at every turn in the spacious edifice.

On leaving the Mansion House, I wended my way to the great banking house of Baring, Brothers & Co. in Bishopgate Street, (having formerly corresponded with the house.) On sending in my card, I was immediately admitted to their private room; after we had concluded our business, I was taken through the establishment; on leaving, they observed, during my absence from the