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INTRODUCTION.

Out of the very numerous number of American citizens who visit Europe, I feel assured there are at least one, if not two thirds who determine on leaving the United States without any settled place, without any fixed resolve as to their ultimate place of destination, leaving to chance, when they arrive, or to the advice of their friends, the choice of their future residence or movements. Now, it unfortunately happens that every person who has travelled, takes his own particular view, forms his own particular opinion of the gaiety, the dulness, the cheapness, or the extravagance of the different towns he visits; an inequality of fortune or of health often giving a bias, and colouring with gloom or brightness the different cities he may be questioned about.

To obviate in some measure these conflicting modes of obtaining correct information, this volume is undertaken ; to point out the expenses to the economical traveller, the curiosities to be seen by the more inquisitive visiter, and to give a general view of the society and arrangements which may here be obtained by the more light-hearted voyager. Add to this, the best modes of travelling, and other subjects interesting and instructive to the tourist, and the object of the present work is given.

How often does the head of a family, or the single gentleman, about to leave the United States, desire to know, “ Is house-rent dear abroad? Which is the cheapest city to reside in? Is such a place healthy? Is such another gay ?" In fact, question is heaped upon question ; person after person is asked, and the whole result is a chaos of uncertainty, arising from the very different answers we receive from different persons. Facts, therefore, in black and white, calculations made on the spot, and many wholesome truths told in print, which, perhaps from shame of exposing the depth and solidity of our purse, or, indeed, confessing our ignorance, we should hesitate to ask, are welcome information to the still uncertain wanderer, who wavers as to where he best can find those objects he seeks, and will gladly, it is hoped, wel. come the present volume, and consult it as his guide, his silent friend, whether at home or abroad.

One of the greatest advantages I think of foreign travel, consists in its tendency to obliterate national prejudices. And I am not insensible to the truth, that no folly can be greater than that of sitting in judgment on a political system, of whose organic structure and practical workings we are ignorant; no prejudice narrower than that of supposing our own country is the limit of all that is wise in policy, noble in patriotism, and generous in virtue. Again, the intelligent traveller will often meet with excellences where he had expected blemishes ; he will find cause for admiration where he had looked for grounds of censure; will learn that eminent worth and virtue can and do flourish in the sterile and exhausted desert of tyranny, as well as in the more generous soil of public and individual freedom. But even charity has its limits; and to surrender the judgment upon the altar of a false expansion of views and sentiments, is a mark rather of weakness than of liberality.

In conclusion, I will observe, that impartiality has been my motto, and utility my object. Flowery language I have left to gild fiction; the facts I am striving to give publicity to, I have clothed in homely terms; I shall, therefore, offer no apology for a matter-of-fact style, which, though faulty in a romance writer, may be praiseworthy in the author of a notebook, a guide to travellers abroad; and beyond that title, this work lays no claim.

Believing I owe the reader an apology for my lengthy ex. ordium, I subscribe myself,

With great respect,
His obedient servant, &c.,

JOHN HENRY SHERBURNE. Philadelphia, March, 1847.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Interesting hints to Tourists; Pleasant jaunt abroad during the sum.

mer months ; Preference given to Packet-ships : Icebergs; English

Channel; Ireland; Holly Head; Liverpool; Elopement of an Ame.

rican lady; Docks; Disgusting sight; Prodigious strength of the

English dray-horse ; Royal Exchange; Nelson's monument; Custom

House and Post Office; The market-house; Immense importation of

Eggs; Hotels; Expenses; Admirable police; Museum; Theatre;

St. James' Cemetery ; Factories ; Environs of Liverpool ; English

politeness, &c. . . . . . . . . . 13

CHAPTER II.

Liverpool ; Its salt works ; Egremont; View of Liverpool ; Its tower.

ing chimneys; Docks ; Shipping ; Employment and ignorance of

children ; Channel scenery ; Welsh mountains ; Intended siege of

Liverpool, and capitulation of Leith, in 1779, by Paul Jones ; Asto-

nishment of British officers; Pleasing result; Railway station-house;

Admirable arrangements; Railway to London, &c.; Tunnel; Dis-

tances; Fares; Time ; Newton race-course ; Jockey Club; Dinner ;

Toasts ; Manchester; Population ; Public buildings ; Botanical Gar.

den; Factories, their appearance ; The ladies ; Streets ; Shops ; Mrs.

B.; Emigration; Military, &c. &c. . . . . . 19

CHAPTER III.

The Midland Counties; Servants at English Hotels; Hints to Tourists ;

Railway to Leeds, distance, fare; Rochdale, Wakefield; Their factories;

Leeds, its appearance; Factories; Collieries; Churches; Derby; Dis.

tance, fare, its central position , Railway station, its magnitude; Ad-

mirable arrangements, Agents; Fare and distance to London ; Bir.

mingham and Sheffield ; Appearance of the country ; Cars and speed;

Barrow-upon-Soar; Petrified fossils; Quarndon, its appearance; Ro.

mantic walk; Quarndon Hall; Ancient church; Chime bells; Ringers;

Mr. Balm, the wealthy factor; Laughable anecdote ; Dumplings for

two, etc. etc. . . . . . . . . . 25

CHAPTER IV.

Quarndon; Its Factories; Quarndon Hatt; Fox Club; The chase; Will

of the Earl of Southampton ; Marquis of Waterford ; His eccentric

habits; Ghost story; Bradgate Park; Game; The chapel; Tomb of

the unfortunate Lady Jane Grey; Inscription; The Tiļt Yard; Fish-

pond; The ghost of Lady Jane Grey; Superstition; Johnnystone

Tower; Its cells; Prospect from the tower; Impromptu; Ruins of

Mount Sorrell Castle; The siege and bombardment by Oliver Crom.

well; Imprisonment of Stephen, King of Scotland, in 1135; Rothby

Village; Ancient temple; Its paintings, walls, garden, etc. etc. 31

CHAPTER v.

Quarndon; City of Leicester; Equipage; Election and Chartists mob;

Ancient abbey ; Arrest and death of Cardinal Wolsey in 1531 ; His

power and splendour; Coffin of Richard the Third ; Roman Tessel.

lated pavement; Head Quarters of Richard the Third; His golden

bedstead; Tale of murder; Execution; Roman mile-stone ; Inscrip-

tion ; Cromwell; The seige; King Lear and his daughters; Pro-

ductions of the county of Leicester; Hospitality; Bosworth Field;

King Dick's well ; Combat of Richard and Richmond at the well;

Death of Richard; Indignity to his remains; Their rescue ; Burial;

Wentworth Hall; Paintings, etc, etc. . .

36

CHAPTER VI.

Quarndon ; Old Nottingham; Its factories ; Sir John Hobhouse ; Lord

Radcliffe ; The procession; Election speech; Nottingham Castle ;

The view ; Subterranean passage: or, Mortimer's Hole; Explana.

tion; Queen Isabella ; Earl of March ; Execution ; Newstead Abbey ;

Robin Hood's bow; Lord Byron's chamber; Plain furniture; View

of the lake, &c.; The pen; Impromptu ; Paintings; Library; Sa.

loons; Shooting gallery ; The chapel; Its organ; The cloisters ;

Monk's chapel; Thunder-gust; Dog Neptune ; Gardens; The yew

tree; Initials; Sherwood Forest; Robin Hood; The cliff; Dinner ;

Return; The party; Belvoir Castle ; Its magnificence; Sir Isaac

Newton; London coach; Arrival, &c. . . . . 42

CHAPTER VII.

Quarndon ; Loughborough ; Its Factories ; Market; Churches; Town

of Sheepshead; Stocking Looms; Its trade; Garendon Park; Ro.

man Arch; Temple of Venus; Ancient Stone Pillar; Paintings;

Statuary; Princely income; Burleigh Hall; Its accomplished Mis.

tress; Paintings; Missionary meeting; The speakers; Slavery in

America; Invitation to address the meeting ; Supper; Invitation to

speak at Quarndon on America ; Night repast ; Questions on Ame.

rica; Hospitality; The Englishman's Fireside, etc. . . 48

CHAPTER VIIỊ.

Departure from Quarndon ; Rugby station ; Ancient city of Coventry;

King's Head Hotel ; St. Mary's Hall; Parliament of Henry the Sixth;

His chair; Paintings; Original Magna Charta ; King John's auto-

graph; Ancient tapestry ; Statue; Ancient armour; St. Michael's

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