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the late Exposition to begin lifting his hat The entrance of the Petit Palace, for in recognition of this fact. There was instance, with its deep-set rounded arch one picture in particular—a small canvas and dome of gold and purple, incrusted by Winslow Homer-"A Wave on the with statues grouped about it, suggested Maine Coast," which could have kept an neither dignity nor classic beauty, and yet American bareheaded for hours if he had it was so picturesque that it became one had enough red corpuscles running through of the delights of the Exposition. The his veins to set his heart tingling when Alexander Bridge was equally fascinating. his eye lighted on some master-effort of One did not, of course, hold one's breath, his countryman. If there was another overwhelmed by its grandeur. The span landscape in the Exposition expressing itself, as seen from the river, was not even more power, truth, beauty, and poetry graceful, nor did its piers and abutments than was contained within its modest compare favorably in design with many of space, I could not find it. The Jury of the other bridges binding together both Awards gave Mr. Homer the Gold Medal sides of the Seine. It was only when the That was what he deserved, and that was great square towers surmounted with goldvery well as far as it went, but they should plated sculpture, the bas-reliefs on each have studded the medal with diamond side, and the broad open plaza effect of the stars-one for every grateful State in the roadway greeted you, that you began to Union.
get any lump in your throat or confine And Homer was not alone. There your vocabulary to the Ohs! and Ahs! were Sargent, and Abbey, and Whistler. This new bridge, of which all the world These men proved what our American is talking, by the way, suggested few of school has accomplished. Inness is gone, the qualities which have made other to be sure, and so are Homer Martin and bridges famous-solidity, spring of arch, Wyant, but Tryon, Davis, Bruce Crane, lightness, and grace. It is only a great Hassam, Palmer, and a dozen other land- promenade—a section of the Champs scape-painters are alive, and so are Chase, Elysées, without its trees, spanning the Cecilia Beaux, Brush, Thayer, and the rest river, decorated with wonderful pedestals of them. Eminently sane painters these, holding equally wonderful gold statues with a thought behind every brush-stroke; and bas-reliefs of stone and bronze. It and painters, too, who have crowded so needs a thousand people in gay costumes close to the top that Europe for the first time to make it enjoyable, and it will undoubthas this year caught sight of their heads. edly have them always wandering over its
roadway, so charming and attractive is its If, however, this Exposition lacked the open-air quality. ineffable beauty which one found in Chi- The less important objects which made cago, it presented in place of it a subtle this or that spot delightful also added to picturesqueness not found in our own. the picturesque effect of the whole. The This quality of the picturesque was not, of Palace of Glass, while it was but a big course, seen in the Bath-Chair nor in child's kaleidoscope at night when the many of the other monstrosities that some lights flashed within, was wonderfully picabsinthe-laden brain had evolved from turesque in the day. It was built on a litstrainings after the queer. Nor was it tle lake overhung by weeping willows and felt in that display of sensationalism which surrounded by smaller grotesque kiosks, has of late weakened if not degraded booths, and cafés. Each individual strucmuch of the art of France, and which, if ture around this Glass Palace, judged by this Exposition is to be regarded as fur- itself, might have passed for the creation nishing standards, is now beginning to be of an unbalanced brain, and yet the genfelt in her architecture. It was to be eral mass of gold and vermilion kiosks, found, however, in the many charming seen against the rich green foliage, the and delightful bits that one met in saunter- whole reflected in the smooth stillness of ing along the garden-paths of the superb the toy lake, produced an effect so charmPark. Indeed, the distinguishing char- ingly picturesque that you invested a sou acteristic of the whole area within the at once and sat down in an iron chair to inclosure, with all it contains, was almost enjoy it. wholly one of picturesqueness.
You felt the same quality even in the details of the larger buildings-in those needs no defense from those of us who of the Grand Palais, for instance. None know his work, especially that classic of the architects seemed to have dared to structure on the lake front at Chicago. trust to the power and beauty to be We need not “ bite our thumbs" at him. obtained by the use of simple lines and But there is still due an explanatory note, broad flat surfaces. The side entrance omitted at the bottom of the official cataleading from the Champs Elysées approach logue, giving us the name, age, and nationwas in itself a dignified flight of steps ality of the distinguished gentleman who flanked by simple columns. But here caused this libel on our good taste to be again the restless and unskilled hand of erected where all the world could seethe designer broke the line of the steps and laugh. and decorated the level with a statue. Without this statue—for it is only an And the people who thronged the sideornament, and as much out of place as shows of this vast pleasure-ground were a Milo would be on a mantelpiece—the as picturesque as their surroundings, and entrance would have gained a dignity as necessary to the general stage-setting which would have stood for classic beauty. as the coryphées and supers in a panWith it the flight of steps becomes only tomime. Turks in fez and baggy trousers picturesque.
locked arms with Algerians in embroiThis quality was found also in almost dered jackets and balloon skirts. Black every one of the national buildings- men from the Colonies took their coffee whether they were the work of French side by side with the palefaces of the architects and designers, or those of other boulevard. Long processions of African countries. The high tower erected by chiefs with their wives and warriors, beatthe little kingdom of Monaco, that rose ing tom-toms and brandishing spears, out of the Street of Nations; the Buddhist threaded their way through the crowds. temple on the brow of the Hill of the Or a dozen scantily attired houris from Trocadero and overlooking the valley of Bagdad followed behind a huge, shamthe Court of Honor—as well as the vari- bling camel led by an Egyptian demandous buildings of the several Governments ing backsheesh, the houris distributing erected along the Seine-were all pictur- advertisements giving the hour and place esque.
of the next dance while the camel swayed No, not all.
his neck over the tables of the open-air There was a narrow shoe-box of a build- cafés, the waiters dodging out of his reach ing, surmounted by a half-round fly-screen as he passed. Once or twice a day a of a dome with a horse and rider backed Dahomey girl, with her cheeks as brown into one end, that stood near the beauti- and shining as the bowl of a meerschaum ful Italian building, and inside and out pipe, would stride down the board walk it possessed no other quality than one of dressed in a square of calico and a string pure, unadulterated ugliness. If the pic- of beads, or a party of John Chinamen, ture of the “ Wave on the Coast of Maine" in their little stub-toed shoes and silk instinctively caused every American tunics, would hurry by as if avoiding proud of his blood to bare his head, this attention. shoe-box should make him wish to hide It was hard to believe, in spite of the it in a diver's helmet, cut his air-hose, and genuineness of their appointments, that drop quietly and peacefully into the they were not the Simon-pure article, oblivion of the Seine. Charles Sumner each and every one of them-fresh from defined Thackeray as the most perfect jungles, harems, or rice-fields. I would of gentlemen because, when visiting him often find myself sympathizing with these in Washington, he carefully avoided by poor exiles, banished from home to make word or look all reference to Jackson's a Parisian holiday. One poor Dahomey equestrian statue, although they passed chief-a sad chief, with an abnormal it arm in arm twice a day. But then the thirst and an insatiable craving for great satirist never saw the American cigarettes—especially appealed to me. I Building at the French Exposition of 1900. would have contributed my mite to send
The American architect whose name him home, had I not passed him one day has been connected with this monstrosity in an entrance gate. He had his two
wives with him, mountains of flesh these, Don't I wish I was there now !” And in calico and beads and head-dresses of then, in answer to my astonished inquiries, feathers. The officer of duty saluted, and “No, I come from Detroit; my man's the salute was returned by his dusky inside here running the show, and I gits Highness and their Imperial Fatnesses, 'em in. Oolah! oolah!!” and the din not, as I expected, by a rubbing of noses began again. or prostrations on the asphalt, but in true I had another shock. Parisian style, the wives dipping a little It was not a girl this time, but a great forward, while the Chief's two fingers mass of superbly carved brown-stone jerked up toward his head-dress, as if it serving as gate-posts for the marvelous was a fatigue-cap and he an officer on iron gate presented by the Czar of All parade. I caught their dialect as I passed the Russias to the French Government in in, but it sounded to my comprehension commemoration of the Exposition. As it more like that of the Latin Quarter than will one day close the entrance to a palace of the jungle.
or a park, where all the people can see So, too, with a charming dark-eyed and rejoice over its workmanship, I was gazelle from Persia—a wavy, lithe, and glad that the sham of lath and plasterthinly-clad young odalisque, with dreamy the “staff” of which all the ephemeral eyes and a wealth of blue-black hair. She buildings of the Exposition had been wore a veil of silken gauze when my eyes constructed—had in this instance been first looked into hers, with a tunic of gold replaced by solid stone masonry. and silver and a head-dress of coins. One day, to reassure myself, I, like a Her voice was slightly worn, but that was doubting Thomas, thrust in my knife. It because for many days and nights she would have gone clean through but for a had stood at the door of the Moorish nail in the lath! Palace recounting in seductive tones the But, then, is not all this sham and predelights within its tile-incrusted portal. tense characteristic of every Exposition ? When I drew nearer, and, to conceal the Are they ever real? And, if not, is it purpose of my advance, ordered a cup of best to peep under the curtain of the tent coffee of the waiter in a dialect I had and catch the clowns off their guard ? learned shortly after my baptism, and Shall we lose faith in the Woolly Horse, which I am still able to speak with some or the Wild Boy from Borneo, or the fluency, she started, beckoned me to her, Man-eating Gorilla from Timbuctoo ? and, with a smile that would have be- I try not to, but I often fail. Somehow guiled the most cruel of Sultans for a sec- I can always see the laths grinning beond thousand nights at least, said : hind the plaster, and the pale, drawn face
“ From New York ? ain't ye? Geel of the tired girl under her paint.