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success of my journey. It happened about this time that Sir Henry Wotton mediated a peace by the King's command, who coming for that purpose to Wezel, I took occasion to go along with him into Spinola's Army, whence after a night's stay, I went on an extream rainy day through the woods to Kysaswert, to the great wonder of mine host, who said all men were robbed or killed that went that way: From hence I went to * Cullin, where among other things I saw the monastery of St. Herbert; from hence I went to Hydelberg, where I saw the Prince and Princess Palatine, from whom having received much good usage, I went to Ulme, and so to Augsbourg, where extraordinary honor was done me, for coming into an inn where an Ambassador from Brussells lay, the town sent twenty great flaggons of wine thither, whereof they gave eleven to the Ambassador, and nine to me; and withall some such compliments that I found my fame had prevented my coming thither. From hence I went through Switzerland to Trent, and from thence to Venice, where I was received by the English Ambassador, + Sir Dudley Carlton, with much honor; among other favors shewed me, I was brought to see a nun in Murano, who being an adınirable beauty, and together singing extreamly well, who was thought one of the rarities not only of that place but of the time; we came to a room opposite unto the cloyster, whence she coming on the other side of the grate betwixt us, sung so extreamly well, that when she departed, neither my lord ambassador nor his lady, who were then present, could find as much as a word of fitting language to return her, for the extraordinary musick she gave us; when I being ashamed that she should go back without some testimony of the sense we had both of the harmony of her beauty and her voice, said in Italian, Moira pur quando vuol, non bisogna mutar ni Voce ni Facia per esser un Angelo; Die whensoever you will, you neither need to change voice nor face to be an angel : these words it seemed were fatal, for going thence to Rome, and returning shortly afterwards, I heard she was dead in the mean time.
From Venice after some stay I went to Florence, where I
* Cologne. † Embassador to Venice, Savoy, and Holland, Secretary of State and Viscount Dorchester.
met the * Earl of Oxford and + Sir Benjamin Rudier : having seen the rarities of this place likewise, and particularly that rare chappel made for the house of Medici, beautified on all the inside with a courser kind of precious stone, as also that nail which was at one end iron, and the other gold, made so by vertue of a tincture into which it was put. I went to Siena, and from thence a little before the Christmas holidays to Rome. I was no sooner alighted at my inn, but I went streight to the English colledge, where demanding for the regent or master thereof, a grave person not long after appeared at the door, to whom I spake in this manner : Sir, I need not tell you my country when you hear my language; I come not here to study controversies, but to see the antiquities of the place; if without scandal to the religion in which I was born and bred up, I may take this liberty, I should be glad to spend some convenient time here; if not, my horse is yet unsaddled, and my self willing to go out of town. The answer returned by him to me was, that he never heard any body before me profess himself of any other religion than what was used in Rome; for his part, he approved much my freedom, as collecting thereby I was a person of honor; for the rest that he could give me no warrant for my stay there, howbeit that experience did teach that those men who gave no affronts to the Roman Catholick religion, received none; whereupon also he demanded my name, I telling him I was called Sir Edward Herbert, he replied, that he had heard men oftentimes speak of me both for learning and courage, and presently invited me to dinner; I told him that I took his courteous offer as an argument of his affection; that I desired him to excuse me, if I did not accept it; the uttermost liberty I had (as the times then were in England) being already taken in coming to that city only, lest they should think me a factious person ; I thought fit to tell him that I conceived the points agreed upon on both sides are greater bonds of amily betwixt us, than that the points disagreed on could break them; that for
* Henry Vere Earl of Oxford. He died at the Hague, in 1625, of a sickness contracted at the siege of Breda, where, being a very corpulent man, he had overheated himself.
of Sir Benjamin Rudyard was a man in great vogue, in that age, a wit, and poet, and intimate friend of William Earl of Pembroke, with whose poems Sir Benjamin's are printed. VOL. II.]
my part I loved every body that was of a pious and vertuous life, and thought the errors on what side soever, were more worthy pity than hate; and having declared myself thus far, I took my leave of him courteously, and spent about a month's time in seeing the Antiquities of that place, which first found means to establish so great an empire over the persons of men, and afterwards over their consciences: the articles of confession and absolving sinners being a greater Arcanum Imperii for governing the world than all the arts invented by statists formerly were.
After I had seen Rome sufficiently, I went to Tivoli anciently called Tibur, and saw the fair palace and garden there, as also Frascati, anciently called Tusculanum ; after that I returned to Rome, and saw the Pope in Consistory, which being done, when the Pope being now ready to give his blessing, I departed thence suddainly, which gave such a suspicion of me, that some were sent to apprehend me, but I going a bye way escaped them, and went to my inn to take horse, where I had not been now half an hour, when the master or regent of the English colledge, telling me that I was accused in the Inquisition, and that I could stay no longer with any safety, I took this warning very kindly; howbeit, I did only for the present change my lodging, and a day or two afterwards took horse and went out of Rome towards Siena, and from thence to Florence : I saw * Sir Robert Dudley, who had the title of Earl or Duke of Northumberland given him by the Emperor, and handsome Mrs. Sudel, whom he carried with him out of England, and was there taken for his wife. I was invited by them to a great feast the night before I went out of town; taking my leave of them both, I prepared for my journey the next morning; when I was ready to depart, a messenger came to me and told me if I would accept the same pension Sir Robert Dudley had, being two thousand duckets per annum, the duke would entertain me for his service in the war against the Turks. This offer, whether procured by the means of Sir Robert Dudley, Mrs. Sudel, or Sigr. Loti my ancient friend, I know not, being thankfully acknowledged as a great ho
* See an account of this extraordinary person in the catalogue of royal and noble authors, vol. ii. Handsome Mrs. Sudel was Mrs. Southwell, daughter of Sir Robert Southwell, who had followed Sir Robert Dudley, from England, under the disguise of a page.
nor, was yet refused by me, my intention being to serve his Excellency in the Low-Country war.
After I had stayed awhile, from hence I went by Ferrara and Bologna towards Padua, in which University having spent some time to hear the learned readers, and particularly Cremonini, I left my English horses and Scotch saddles there, for on them I rid all the way from the Low-Countries, I went by boat to Venice: The Lord Ambassador, Sir Dudley Carleton, by this time had a command to reside awhile in the court of the Duke of Savoy, wherewith also his lordship acquainted me, demanding whether I would go thither; this offer was gladly accepted by me, both as I was desirous to see that Court, and that it was in the way to the LowCountry, where I meant to see the war the summer ensuing.
Coming thus in the coach with my Lord Ambassador to Milan, the governor thereof invited my Lord Ambassador to his house, and sometimes feasted him during his stay there: Here I heard that famous nun singing to the organ in this manner, another nun beginning first to sing, per formed her part so well, that we gave her much applause for her excellent art and voice; only we thought she did sing somewhat lower than other women usually did; hereupon also being ready to depart, we heard suddainly, for we saw nobody, that nun which was so famous, sing an eight higher than the other had done ; her voice was the sweetest, strongest, and clearest, that ever I heard, in the using whereof also she shewed that art as rayish'd us into admiration.
From Milan we went to Novara, as I remember, where we were entertained by the governor, being a Spaniard, with one of the most sumptuous feasts that ever I saw, being but of nine dishes, in three several services; the first whereof was, three ollas podridas consisting of all choice boiled meats, placed in three large silver chargers, which took up the length of a great table; the meat in it being heightened up artificially pyramid wise to a sparrow which was on the top: she second service was like the former, of roast meat, in which all manner of fowle from the pheasant and partridge, to other fowle less than them, were heightened up to a lark: the third was in sweet-meats dry of all sorts, heightened in like manner to a round comfit.
From hence we went to Vercelly, a town of the Duke of Savoy's, frontier to the Spaniard, with whom the duke was then in war; from whence passing by places of least note, we came to Turin, where the Duke of Savoy's court was. After I had refreshed myself here some two or three days, I took leave of my lord Ambassador, with intention to go to the Low-Countreys, and was now upon the way thither, as far as the foot of Mount Cenis, when the Count Scarnafigi came to me from the * Duke, and brought a letter to this effect: That the Duke had heard I was a cavalier of great worth, and desirous to see the wars, and that if I would serye him, I should make my own conditions. Finding so courteous an invitation I returned back, and was lodged by the Duke of Savoy, in a chamber furnished with silk and gold hangings, and a very rich bed, and defrayed at the Duke's charges in the English ambassador's house. The Duke also confirmed unto me what the Count Scarnafigi had said, and together bestowed divers compliments on me. I told his Highness that when I knew in what service he pleased to employ me, he should find me ready to testify the sense I had of his princely invitation.
It was now in the time of Carneval, when the Duke who loved the company of ladies, and dancing as much as any prince whosoever, made divers masks and balls, in which his own daughters among divers other ladies danced, and here it was his manner to place me always with his own hand near some fair lady, wishing us both to entertain each other with some discourse, which was a great favour among the Italians; he did many other ways also declare the great esteem he had of me without coming to any particular, the time of the year for going into the field being not yet come; only he exercised his men often, and made them ready for his occasions in the spring.
The Duke at last resolving how to use my service, thought fit to send me to Languedoc in France, to conduct 4000 men of the reformed religion (who had promised their assistance in his war) unto Piedmont. I willingly accepted this offer ; so taking my leave of the Duke, and bestowing about 70 or 80l. among his officers, for the kind entertainment I had received, I took my leave also of my lord Ambassador, and Sir Albertus Moreton, who was likewise imployed there, and prepared for my journey, for more expedition of which I
* Charles Emmanuel.