awkwardness of the analogy. Assuredly we should find no Archbishop of Canterbury now-a-days arguing in the style of his predecessor, in the play of Henry the Fifth :

"So work the honey bees;

Creatures, that, by a rule in nature, teach
The art of order to a peopled kingdom.
They have a king, and officers of sorts;
Where some, like magistrates, correct at home;
Others, like merchants, venture trade abroad;

Others, like soldiers, armèd in their stings,

Make boot upon the summer's velvet buds;
Which pillage they, with merry march, bring home
To the tent-royal of their emperor;

Who, busied in his majesty, surveys
The singing masons building roofs of gold;
The civil citizens kneading up the honey;
The poor mechanic porters crowding in
Their heavy burdens at his narrow gate;
The sad-eyed justice, with his surly hum,
Delivering o'er to executors pale

The lazy yawning drone."

Alas! in Bee-dom, the archbishop himself, inasmuch as he was no wax-chandler, would have been accounted one of these same lazy, yawning drones, and delivered over to the secular arm. Bees do not teach men, nor ought they. We have some higher things among us, even than wax and honey; and though we have our flaws, too, in the art of government, and do not yet know exactly what to do with them, we hope we shall find out. Will the bees ever do that? Do they also hope it? Do they sit pondering, when the massacre is over, and count it but a bungling way of bringing their accounts right? Man, in his self-love, laughs at such a fancy. He is of opinion that no creature can think, or make progression, but himself. What right he has, from his little experience, to come to such conclusions, we know not; but it must be allowed, also, that we know as little of the conclusions of the bees. All we feel certain of is, that with bees, as with men, the good of existence far outweighs the evil; that evil itself is but a rough working towards good; and that if good can ultimately be better without it, there is a thing called hope, which says it may be possible. We take our planet to be very young, and our love of progression to be one of the proofs of it; and when we think of the good, and beauty, and love, and pleasure, and generosity, and nobleness of mind and imagination, in which this green and glorious world is abundant, we cannot but conclude that the love of progression is to make it still more glorious, and add it to the number of those older stars which are probably resting from their labours, and have become heavens.

We had hoped to conclude this article with a passage or two from an admirable book just published, called "Vestiges of the Natural History of Creation." We know not the author, and must not seek to know, for he intimates that he wishes to remain concealed; but we earnestly recommend it for its benignity, modesty, and profundity, to all who ever speculate on the origin of themselves and their fellowcreatures, and who cannot contemplate the smallest being in the universe without rising into thoughts of the greatest.

396

"WINTER WANDERING S.

(CONCLUDED.)

BY W. FRANCIS AINSWORTH.

Tarsus. Archæological researches.-Enter into Taurus.-An invitation to dinner. -Armenian strongholds.-A mishap.-Ruins of Anazarbus.---Misadventures in the pass of Taurus.--Marash, ancient Germanicia.-Castle of the Romans. A PLEASANT ride of a few hours, across the green and level plains of Cilicia, took us from Adana to Tarsus, renowned in antiquity as the rival of, and according to Strabo, surpassing Athens and Alexandria in its schools of philosophy and science, and endeared to Christians as the birth-place of the Apostle Paul. As we approached the broad valley of the Cydnus, we found ourselves in the midst of jungle and brushwood, intermingled with timber trees, and gradually merging into a close marshy forest, through which the road was almost impassable, except where a rare public spirit had constructed an occasional causeway. Tarsus lay in the midst of this forest, from out of which its mosques and dwelling-houses rose here and there, with a small extent of gardens, reclaimed from wood and water.

It is this positioning of Tarsus which gives to it its proverbial unhealthiness. The last English consul had died since we had been in the country, he was the second who had fallen a victim to the climate within a few years; and it is probable that, although Alexander is represented by his historians as deriving his sickness at this place from bathing in the Cydnus, that he in reality suffered from the ever enduring malaria.

Colonel Chesney and myself had rode on in advance, to secure quarters at the residence of the French consul. We found M. Gilet and his lady comfortably established in a convenient house, with a good open balcony. Our arrival took place before the dinner hour, and after a polite reception, the colonel delicately intimated slight apprehensions as to how the remainder of the party were getting on.

"What! are there more of you?" exclaimed the lady, with a somewhat clouded aspect.

"Yes, there are one or two more in the rear," was the answer given with some trepidation; and our hostess started to make preparations accordingly. The anticipatory ice had, however, been broken for them, and they arrived just in time to sit down to a European dinner, with French wines to boot.

M. Gilet, who, like all the French consuls in the East, was a person of much superior education and refinement than what our commercial representatives are generally in the same country, was, among other things, a zealous archæologist, and had been engaged for some time-albeit evidently somewhat against madame's inclination-in carrying on excavations in the chief monument of ancient times, which still exists at Tarsus.

This was an extensive walled-in space, in the form of a parallelogram, one hundred and twenty paces long by sixty broad, and the walls were seventeen feet high and fifteen thick. Within this enclosure were two solid masses of masonry, placed broadways, at its

opposite ends; and it was in one of these that the consul was carrying on his operations, but without any success, or any objects being met with that indicated the sepulchral character of the monument. It has been advanced with some degree of probability, that this is the mausoleum of the Emperor Julian, whose remains were brought from the field of slaughter, on the banks of the Euphrates, to this city; but the monument appeared, from its general simplicity and rude structure, to belong to a more remote antiquity; and it might also be asked, if sepulchral, why should there be two isolated masses within the enclosure? This ancient ruin stood in a picturesque situation in the woods, outside of the existing town.

The malaria of the country returned upon us at Tarsus; but this did not prevent an excursion to the falls of Cydnus, a wooded, rocky, and picturesque spot, close by which is a grotto, one of the many in Anterior Asia, to which the medieval legend of the Seven Sleepers is attached.

From Tarsus we advanced into the wooded and hilly districts on the southern slopes of Taurus. We entered into these by low, undulating, naked hills, of snow-white gypsum, which led the way into open, grassy, and uncultivated valleys. The second range we arrived at was higher, wooded in parts, and in part cultivated, with interspersed villages. The third range, still in the ascending series, was composed of sandstones, which were remarkable for being divided into polygonal masses, like a tesselated pavement; and still more so, from containing numerous fossil oysters of a gigantic size, being from a foot to eighteen inches in breadth, and of great weight. Passing several villages of Turkomans, we arrived at a fourth and more extensive hilly district, on the summit of which we found a Roman arch, and the fragments of a sarcophagus, and close by, the traces of an ancient causeway, which led from Tarsus to the Cilician gates. The country after this assumed a more Alpine aspect. The valleys were narrow, and broken up by rounded hills, bearing castellated buildings, or covered with trees and shrubs, while naked rocks towered up beyond in perpendicular precipices many hundred feet in height, the crags above which were dotted with sturdy pine-trees, breaking the monotony of the wide-spreading snow.

At Mezarluk we entered a narrow and picturesque pass, having perpendicular cliffs on our left hand, in which were numerous sepulchral grottoes, whence its Turkish name, and several tabular inscriptions no longer legible. In the glen below we saw several foxes, and squirrels were playing in the trees about. We passed the night at the village of Bostan-luk Koi, situated in a wood upon the hill side, and the next morning the baggage having been sent down the valley of the rivulet, which flows out of the Golek Boghaz, with orders to stop at the first caravanserai, we proceeded up the valley to the south, to visit the lead-mines, the works at which had been lately reassumed by the pasha, under the superintendence of a Piedmontese; but were, as yet, in a very incipient state, and had not extended beyond the erection of furnaces, and the separation of useless matters from the results of former excavations.

The resident director afterwards accompanied us over the hills, by the foot of a lofty castle, which domineers over the narrowest part of the Golek Boghaz or Cilician gates, to the entrance into this ancient

and remarkable pass througif Taurus, which is carried at first along the valley of a tributary to the Sarus, then ascends a hilly and wooded range, where the Egyptians erected their extensive defences, and descends through a narrow and precipitous fissure in the rocks, by the valley of a tributary to the Cydnus. We did not advance beyond this rock-obstructed gap, where the traces of a hewn causeway of ancient times are still visible, and a rock, with an inscribed tablet, lies with its face downwards in the midst of the struggling waters, but returned down the beauteous and wooded valley which leads into the Cilician plains, and where the pretty little cyclamen bloomed even in the winter season, sheltered by evergreen shrubs, while the noisy waters stole away beneath a canopy of myrtle and laurel.

In return for the civility of the director of the mines, who possessed but a sorry tenement in the mountains, the colonel invited him to proceed onwards, and take his dinner with us; and as I have often had occasion to refer to the black cook's artistic skill, it may be as well to mention here that our meals were pretty nearly always the same, and consisted of a quarter, more or less, of a goat, and when attainable, of a sheep, cut into fragments, and stewed down in the absence of bread and potatoes, with dried haricot beans, of a brown colour, but excellent eating, and flavoured with an onion or two. A copper or iron vessel was generally procured for this purpose at each station, and sufficient of this delectable stew was always made over night, that there should be enough to warm up again in the morning; Malta always rising at four, A.M., to light the fire, and we breakfasted at five, so as to start by daybreak. The colonel had also brought with him a small stock of rum and tea, which were occasionally sparingly enjoyed, in a proper admixture, after the fatigues of the day.

We tried the wooded copses on the hill side for game, but with little success; there were partridges, but they got away from us in the thick cover, and evening overtook us just as we approached the stern and windowless walls of a roofless and untenanted caravanserai. It was in vain that we sought for the commissariat; dismayed by the comfortless appearance of the khan, Malta had gone on further. We, accordingly, proceeded down the valley, a few miles distance to the next khan; but to the discomfiture of our prandial arrangements, Malta was not there either, and, as the road we intended to pursue turned off at this point, a native was procured to go in search of him, while we disposed of ourselves in two lines, along a carpetless mud divan, on the opposite sides of the interior of the caravanserai. The slight glimmer of a fire in the remote distance, just rendered visible the tattered and turbaned form of the keeper of the khan, who was busy in the important task of blowing the dying embers into a sufficiently lively condition to boil a few thimblefuls of bad coffee, and the ruddy glare which ultimately resulted from his perseverance, gave a first indistinct view of sundry countenances which had been in no slight degree lengthened by the unpleasant certainty of a dinnerless and bedless night, for our carpets and cloaks, be it also noted, were with the baggage.

The next morning Malta came up in safety, and bidding the Piedmontese, to whom we had given so cheerless a reception, farewell, we made but a short day's ride to the village of Chokahli, where we could get a meal concocted; and from whence a most magnificent prospect

was presented to us, of the whole extent of the Cilician plains, with the sea beyond, Cyprus islanded on its far-off bosom, and itself skirted by lofty Amanus, with the isolated peak of Mount Casius leading away to the indistinct outline of distant Lebanon.

The following day, while the remainder of the party were getting ready, the colonel and myself went out to try the woods for game, in doing which we got out of the proper direction, and thus lost our horses, and the ever-vanishing commissariat; nor did we rejoin them and the rest of the party, till three days' long and devious wanderings along the foot of Taurus, brought us to the ancient Armenian and patriarchal town of Sis, where we found them located in safe and snug quarters.

The ensuing morning, the colonel and myself started northwards into the mountains, to visit an old castle, called Kara Sis, or Black Sis. We advanced by a hilly and wooded country to some heights, on which was the village, called Yedezli, about six miles from Sis. Beyond this the country became irregularly mountainous, and very wild in appearance; and from the midst of this forbidding-looking tract, two rocky eminences-one to the north, the other a little east of north-made themselves prominent by their isolated position, bold precipitous sides, and table summits. Upon these stood the ruins of castles, one of which was called Andal Kal'eh; the other, Kara Sis, and to the latter of which, as the most extensive, we bent our steps.

After a long trot, by rough and stony roads, of a further six miles, we gained the foot of the hill, and clambering to the summit, found nothing but a crumbling wall of black basalt, without form or shape, to reward our toil, or attest the era of construction, and not a human being to cheer us with a local tradition. It was evidently, however, a ruin of considerable antiquity, and was, probably, with its sister rockfort, a stronghold of the Reubinian dynasty of Armenians, who retired into the fastnesses of Cilicia before the invasion of Yengiz Khan, and for a long time made Sis the seat of their circumscribed rule. These Armenians became at one time warlike and powerful on the plains of Cilicia, upon which they descended from their mountain strongholds to harass and plunder their Christian crusading brethren, and from whence they, for a time, successfully resisted the ultimately victorious Turkomans. In the time of Diogenes Romanus, they drove back a large body of these warrior herdsmen, who were again cut off in their retreat at the bridge of Mopsuestia, by the Prince of Antioch, (called by old historians, by the absurd name of Chatagurio,) who had taken up his position at that place.

We were not at all sorry to set off on our return; but the difficulties of the road were so great, that darkness overtook us by the time we gained the acclivities of the Yedezli hills. Not to be benighted, we trusted in our steeds finding their way, and put them to a canter. Everything went on prosperously over the hills, where stones were numerous, but not large, and the myrtle bushes so small as to offer but a slight impediment to the progress of our horses, who, when not observing them in time to get out of the way, passed safely through the midst of them; but on the descent, matters altered considerably for the worse, and the aspect of the country presented a material difference. Shrubs of myrtle, Christ's-thorn, and dwarf-oaks of sturdy breed, had attained considerable size, overtopping at times horse and