the dust, which is light and fine as ashes and as penetrating as an essence. We were not long in reaching Hueneme, a distance of eleven miles, and found her hugging the sea as close as sand and surf would let her. The name is of Indian origin, and signifies a "resting place." Years ago the native fishermen, turning from the

re

islands in the

channel, found

their most convenient landing in these quiet waters. Sheltered by the violet ridges of Anacapa and Santa Cruz Islands on the west, and protected by Point Hueneme and Point Magu on the north and south, no safer harbor has been made by nature between San Francisco and San Diego.

The Hueneme wharf extends out one thousand feet, to a depth of thirty feet of water, and the warehouses are the largest south of San Francisco. This town is the embarcadero from which immense quantities of produce are shipped from Pleasant Valley, and the Colonia, Conejo, Simi, and Las Posas ranchos. Heavy grain-filled wagons en train, drawn by six, eight, and twelve horses or mules, creaked through the streets on their way to the warehouses.

The founding of Hueneme on the western projection of the Colonia Rancho,

ficulties, which nearly culminated in bloodshed between prominent members of the Squatters' League, and T. R.

Bard, who had

be

bought the entire rancho of Thomas A. Scott the year before. The squatters lieved this portion of La Colonia to be public lands. A compromise was finally brought about by both claimants giving bonds for a title when the ownership should be legally established. A final decision of the

courts in favor of Mr. Bard

brought the matter to a permanent issue, since which time the growth of the town has been unchecked.

The first artesian wells struck in 1871 at Hueneme created universal excitement throughout the surrounding country. The enormous volume of water thrown out by one of these wells soon flooded several acres of ground, and necessitated the erection of flumes to carry off the extra supply. The value of such an abundance of water in a land where there are at least six rainless months in the year, can hardly be estimated by one unaccustomed to such

climatic divisions. After leaving the center of town we drove toward what seemed a wilderness of gum and pepper trees, but which turned out

our distinguished host and his fair young wife, the happy friendliness of the little ones, especially of "Baby Elizabeth," who was the very embodiment of roses, dimples, and kisses, made this evening in Hueneme one to be long remembered.

Surely it was a mocking bird whose joyous carol awoke me the following morning! I hurriedly arose and went to the window, in hopes of catching a glimpse of his white-barred wings on the pyramid of foliage just outside. He was safely under cover, however; but all through my dressing I could hear his rich notes dropping silvery plummets of sound down through the dewy hush. of the grove.

The tallest shafts of the Australian gums were tipped with earliest sunshine when I stole out into the garden. The seclusion of the place was almost primeval. No sound broke upon the "burden of the desert of the sea," save the unobstrusive whistle of a bird, or the whirr of bright wings through the treetops.

Rambling about aimlessly, pausing

now and then to pluck a flower or a late blackberry, I stumbled upon a long avenue of cypress, so densely braided overhead that the sun-rays could not pierce its gloom. There was a ghostly absence of noise in my footfall on the damp leaf mold, and a wintry chill to the air like that in a tunnel. Just outside the closing arch of this somber aisle, the sun was shining goldenly on grass

as green as spring-time. A nearer approach revealed a tiny grave set about with nodding daisy blossoms. Here the first-born of the household was tenderly laid to rest in the dear home gardens, whose blooms are never for his gathering.

Across the intervening space of waving leaves there pealed the merry laughter of the other children, and turning reverently away I retraced my steps, softly repeating those exquisite lines,

66

Alas for him who never sees

The stars shine through his cypress trees."

Involuntarily I looked back, and beheld again the radiant sunlight flooding the little grave just beyond the shade.

After the pleasant breakfast hour we all went for a ride to the lighthouse, desolately located on a salt grass point a mile from town. The building is a picturesque two-story brick structure, whose red light is a guide to mariners many miles at sea. From its tower we had a superb view of the tremulous blue plains of the ocean, and the islands stretching supinely across, like great sea monsters with shaggy manes of mist. The air was soft as only a sea can make it.

For some time after we left the lighthouse we rode along the beach, watch ing the line of dazzling surf racing impetuously up the glistening sands. Much to the delight of the children, there were some half dozen huge pelicans standing dejectedly on the water's edge, waiting for the waves to roll them in a luckless fish. Until we were almost upon them, these uncouth fowls retained their attitude of fixed and melancholy repose. Then raising themselves cumbrously, they sailed away, their greedy, downward gaze still bent on the

water.

We drove over to the large race-track but recently completed, and crossed thence to the opposite side of the town, where stands the handsome new school

house. This, and the numerous pleasant homes surrounded by well kept lawns and flower beds, attest the culture and affluence of the people. We stopped our horses on a rustic bridge that we might better view the Laguna, winding sinuously among its spears of purple reeds, with flocks of wild duck plowing luminous furrows across its steel-gray floor. The peaceful loveliness of this noon-time picture stayed with us long after we had reached the house, refreshed and exhilarated by our ride beside the

sea.

Never will I forget our journey back to Saticoy late that afternoon. On by the lush pastures of alfalfa, we came to the river-crossing at Montalvo. This is the first railroad station east of San Buenaventura, and is the point where all the travel from Simi, Los Posas, Pleasant Valley, and La Colonia, fords the river on its way to the county seat. Back of the village on a hill is built the great reservoir from which water is piped throughout the entire tract. Montalvo's schoolhouse is a large, ornamental building of the most approved modern style of architecture. There are many prolific orchards in the vicinity. The venerable author of "The Pioneer Preacher," the Reverend Sherlock Bristol, has a cosy home in the heart of walnut groves a short distance from Montalvo.

This gentleman preached the first sermon at Saticoy more than twenty years ago.

On these semi-tropic shores the hour. immediately after the disappearance of the sun is, of all the twenty-four, most sacred and soothing. Then all Nature is devotional, and the soul becomes conscious of an ineffable awakening of diviner instincts. As we reached the river crossing the sun had left the west ablaze, and in the quivering lights afloat objects seemed to grow strangely removed from us. Through the supernal glare the mountains rose, rank above rank, crown above crown, until old Topa