Ernestine de Barante, with charming light pink flowers, is one of the most distinct. Pompon de St. Radegonde, with rather larger flowers of a deep crimson; Vicomtesse de Bellevalle, and Léonie Verger, with rose-coloured pretty little flowers, are all distinct; and Pauline Bonaparte, with small nicely-shaped flowers of a pure white, completes the list.

These dwarf autumnal roses are rather delicate in their habits, and not at all adapted for standards. In light rich favourable soils, and in a mild climate, they would form beautiful edging plants; and, as little pet plants for pot culture, they are esteemed by lady amateurs.

Culture and Pruning.

All the robust-growing varieties of this family form admirable standards, and are particularly well adapted for planting in rows by the sides of walks, giving them plenty of manure, and the necessary culture required by these roses to make them bloom freely in autumn-i.e. removing a portion of their bloom buds in June; thus, if there are ten clusters of bloom making their appearance, cut off five to within about three buds of the base of each shoot: these will soon push forth, and give fine flowers in August. Constant care should be taken to remove in the same manner

all the clusters of blooms as soon as they fade. Baronne Prévost and a few others are very apt to make barren shoots without terminal flowers. As soon as this can be ascertained, cut all such shoots to within six or eight buds of their base; they will then, in most cases, give fertile branches: in short, these roses require much summer pruning and attention to make them flower in great perfection in autumn.

The winter pruning of these roses is best performed at two or even at three periods; in November for those required to bloom early, and towards the end of March, or even later, if it is wished to retard them: these may be called peculiar seasons for a special purpose; but the general season should be towards the end of February if the weather be mild. This winter pruning may be described in very few words, for nothing is more irksome than lengthy pedantic descriptions of simple operations: to prune these roses, then, in winter, is merely to cut off from each vigorous shoot of the preceding summer, two-thirds of its length, and from those of less vigour three-fourths of their length, taking care not to leave too many of these shortened shoots, for the tree will then become crowded in the summer; but after shortening them, cut some of them out cleanly, so as to leave a nice well-disposed frame to be filled up the succeeding summer by beautiful leaves and still more beautiful flowers.

extra care.

For beds or dwarf trees or bushes, perhaps no roses are so admirably adapted. The summer thinning and pruning above recommended is quite necessary, and they will amply repay any For this kind of culture, however--I speak from the firmest convictions, brought on by long experience-there is no mode equal to the removal system. Generally, this may be done biennially; but in light, poor, easily exhausted soils, it may be done annually: early in November is the best period, and the mode very simple:Take up every plant carefully, and shorten any long straggling roots to within the compass of the usual mass of fibrous roots; stir the border well with Winton Parkes' steel forks to the depth of twenty inches, then prune them and replant the trees, giving to each one or two shovelsful of rotten manure and loam, equal parts, if the soil be light and sandy; rotten manure and road sand, if it be cold and heavy; one shovelful will do if the trees are removed annually, two will be required if they are removed biennially. Standards, when they do not flourish and give their flowers in autumn, may be treated in the same manner with great advantage.

As pillar roses some of the vigorous-growing varieties are highly eligible; they should be treated in the same manner as recommended for summer pillar roses, given in p. 35: they will cover a pole from six to seven feet high well; but

unless in very rich soils they cannot be depended upon to form a healthy pillar of greater height. Baronne Prévost, Caroline de Sansal, Jules Margottin, Duchesse de Cambacérès, Charles Lefebvre, General Jacqueminot, John Hopper, Jules Margottin, Madame Rivers, Prince Camille de Rohan, Sénateur Vaisse, Victor Verdier, Empereur de Maroc, Triomphe de l'Exposition, are all nice varieties for this purpose.

PYRAMIDAL HYBRID PERPETUALS.

Standard roses, inartistic and unpicturesque as they are, have held their own' for some years. It is time that some new rose idea was originated, and I hope, ere long, to have standard roses spoken of as things of the past-like stage coaches and road wagons. The culture of pyramidal

roses will require more care and time than the culture of standards, which we all know is very simple; but the rose gardener will be amply compensated by such glorious effects as have never yet been seen in our roseries.

Like all really good gardening ideas, the culture of rose pyramids, although requiring more time and care than the culture of standard and dwarf roses, is still very simple, and may be carried out by two methods:

The first, and most simple mode, is to bud the

vigorous growing varieties on strong Manetti rose stocks, and training up a single strong shoot from the bud to an iron rod about the size of a small curtain rod, to a height of six or seven feet. If the soil is favourable, the shoot, if kept clear at foot from small shoots, will attain that height in one season. The following season, if it has attained to the height as above, it should be cut off to four feet, so as to force it to make shoots at its lower part, otherwise it will be bare of shoots and flowers, and have the appearance of a low standard. As soon as the side shoots have given their flowers, and they are commencing to fade, all should be shortened with a sharp knife to about four inches; they will then give a second and third crop of flowers. The leading shoot in the second should be shortened in summer to the height of the rod, and it is advisable to pinch in May all the shoots at the corner of the pillar to two inches, repeating this pinching in June, so as to force all the lower shoots on the stem into

more vigorous growth. The early spring or early autumn pruning--the former if the effects of winter are dreaded, the latter if early roses are desired is simply to thin out the clusters of side shoots if crowded, and with a sharp knife to shorten all of them to within four inches of the stem. By this method of culture, most beautiful pyramidal roses may be formed, far superior to the usual broom-headed standards.