ADDICTION OF PERSIANS TO WINE.

23

of use unto men; but their sinfulness is greater than their use." Perhaps he saw the actual necessity of this to the existence of a race in such a climate as his own; or else he would hardly have dared, almost at the beginning of his career, to have restrained what has ever been a cherished indulgence with mankind; though probably it was a habit which in excess the inhabitants to the west of the Euphrates were never guilty of.

The Persians, from the earliest ages, have been wine-bibbers, and spite of Prophet and fanaticism, are so now. Herodotus mentions of them, that they used to deliberate on the most important subjects when heated with wine; that then they met again and deliberated on the same subject while cool. If, on the contrary, they discussed any important subject while sober, they met again when excited by wine and re-considered it: between the two was wisdom.

One afternoon the whole mound was thrown into the most desperate excitement; baskets, shovels, and work were thrown aside, and the Jebour demanded with loud voices to be permitted to attack: six horsemen of the Tai, a neighbouring tribe at

24

THE SHEIK OF THE TAI.

The

deadly feud with the Jebour, quietly mounted the tel. The Arabs were with some difficulty restrained, and the horsemen were ordered to retire. Tai are a tribe known on the pages of history, and their sheik may probably be of the oldest chief blood in the world. This tribe in the seventh century could send forth its ten thousand horsemen; and had the descendant of the Prophet (Hasseen) confided in their honour, they might have changed the fate, the religion of the Oriental world. War, feuds, and pride have now reduced the tribe; and though too proud to become sedentary, their migrations are confined to a space about the size of the county of Lincoln.

The old sheik, who traces back his pedigree in one pure line from before the Prophet, is a remarkably noble-looking old man ; but his pride is rapidly hastening the destruction of his tribe. He will treat with none upon equal terms; claiming a superiority from his descent, which his enemies are little prepared to allow. "If they wish for peace, let them come and ask it." His tribe, who have remained faithful to him—a rare quality—through all his adversities, are at feuds with all, and daily exposed to the ills of unequal war. The Jebour

PAY-DAY ON THE MOUND.

25

especially, are their deadly enemies, and during my stay inflicted on them a severe loss of cattle and mares.

It is the Tai who have exterminated the tribe of Ali Abou Hamed, of whom, from a powerful tribe, now scarce thirty houses are left, and these they hunt down with ceaseless pertinacity. I ought to mention that the Arabs on the mound are all well armed, all have good serviceable muskets; these are long barrelled, and the stock short and light. It is a cumbrous weapon to use without a rest ; here, however, they have one consisting of two parallel legs, attached to the musket; this not only supports it, but the two render it a good steady stand to take an aim on. The rest lies along the barrel when not in use, held up by a string. The barrels of these native made weapons are excellent; their locks are the part they fail in the springs are bad, so the whole works ill. The shots, however, they make with ball are wonderful, and our table was supplied with hare or gazelle daily.

Pay-day on the mound was a peculiarly characteristic sight, and well worth seeing. Mr. Hormuzd Rassam, an invaluable secretary,

26

THE LABOURERS ON THE MOUND.

whose sojourn in England has opened and improved a mind already well cultivated, and who possesses a knowledge of several Oriental languages, presided. Imagine a broad passage, or rather hall, -for a spot was chosen where several passages met-every outlet and cranny crowded by the expectant receivers: the lean, muscular Arab; the more stolid, but more determined Tiyari; the fat, sleek Christian of the town; the haughty Mussulman artisan; the disciplined fine form, and resolute expression of the kavass-all these discordant elements were pliant beneath the young secretary, whose acquaintance with their characteristics, many customs, characters and language, gives him great power. Their healthy appearance, good dresses, and arms, spoke of the advantage they derived from the regular work and fair pay. I forebore asking with regard to their pay, but believe it was two piastres a day for the ordinary workmen, higher for the rest. They were called up in tens, the money for these paid to one, and a bakshish added. They, on their parts, seemed to have implicit confidence in the payer, who insisted that each should buy meat for his wife.

In the evening we had another gale, and all our

EMBARK FOR NIMROUD.

27

tents, save one of Mr. Layard's, went by the board. It was sad, picking up one's goods from the sand, scattered far over the plain-pens, paper, watch, pots, sheets, bed, carpets, pistols, shirts. Soon afterwards, I took advantage of Mr. Layard's going to Nimroud, and one evening, after dinner, with one servant, we embarked, with Mr. H. Rassam and one servant, on a small raft for Nimroud. Slowly we floated down that silver river; the moon shed over the water a pale brazen hue, wavy, tremulous as the ripple; slowly the town floated from us, as we sat leaning on cushions-then came on us the wild, mysterious, barren, lifeless gloom of growing night.

We fell asleep in our musings; for my first consciousness was, that we were near the Awai or dam across the river, and the boatman said we had better get out and walk, while he went down it in a light raft. When my opinion was asked, I gave it against any change of position. Very sleepy; the chance of a swim seemed far preferable than the certainty of a walk, so we whisked down with great rapidity and, what was more, some wetting. One only buttress of this work remains above water, and the rest-when the