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of the girl : now, however, the man was dead, and the cadi had taken the woman and refused to give her up, though she still retained her native faith and wanted to return to her friends. The cadi always protects widows and the divorced ; in fact, he is the person to whose house the women fly for protection in all cases.

I would not interfere, more particularly, as I had heard the case had been long in agitation, and was not quite so clear as the picturesque groups of suppliants made it appear. Report said the girl had willingly gone to the Turk, changed her faith, and now sought the cadi to protect her from the vengeance of her people. However kind the Montselim was, he little thought of our health ; nightly his gardener irrigated the garden, so that we slept in a pond.





Continued Illness of some of the Party-How Sickness is borne by Natives of the East-Accompanied by Mr. Layard, start for the Koord Mountains-Town of Akka described-The Pasha deposed by the Sultan-I fall sick-Murder of Professor Schultz-Scenery on the Journey-Welcome of the Pasha to Mr. Layard-Arrival at Van-Bitlis Cloth-Bazaars of Van-Visit the Pasha-Reception by his Hasnedara-Taken worse-Tacktervan in which I journeyed to the Convent-The Dresses of the People of Van-Policy of the Porte briefly considered-Frankish Dress adopted by Turks"Lebiss Stamboul"-Apartments in the Convent, and partial Recovery-On the Pleasure and Advantage, or otherwise, of travelling alone.

FRIDAY, 12th.-I rose as well as usual: on one side of the tent lay the Doctor, dead beat; under one flap, which constitutes a separate room, Abdallah perfectly insensible: the cook lay behind on a heap of horse-cloths, equally stricken. I sat down to write in the air; finding the flies annoyed me, I read, fell asleep, and remember nothing save a great sensation of pain and weariness for two days. It seemed as if a noise awoke me; it was early morning, and Mr. Layard stood before me. Poor fellow he had learned



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how to treat the fever by bitter, almost fatal, personal experience ; and now he dosed us and starved us, till all but Abdallah were out of danger, at all events.

It is curious how soon people of warm climates, –or, in fact, I may say,—all uneducated people, succumb to sickness. Hardy fellows, apparently as strong as iron : when attacked, they lie down, wrap a coat or cloak around them, and resign themselves to suffer. It would seem that the mind is alone able to rise superior to disease : their minds, uncultivated, by disuse weak, or in perfect alliance with the body, cease to exist when its companion falls. In intellectual man the mind is the last to succumb : long after the poor weak body has yielded, the mind holds out like a well-garrisoned citadel : it refuses all surrender, and though the town is taken, fights bravely till the last. Mr. Layard kindly waited a few days to enable us to recruit, and then one morning we started, a goodly company, for the Koord mountains.

The town of Akka, the capital of the district, governed by a Montselim sent by the Pasha of Mosul, is situated on the western slope of Djebel

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The mosques

Hayrr. It consists of small detached flat-roofed houses built of mud and wood, and looks cleaner than Turkish towns generally do. are neat and well-built, with bright glistening crescents over all. On a bold point of the mountain stands the castle of the hereditary Pasha of Akka, a descendant of the Caliphs of Bagdad : Mohammed Said Pasha was the last. About thirteen years ago the Porte reduced him to subjection, by the capture of his castle, a badly built rubble building, yet impregnable except by blockade. He surrendered, and now, I believe, resides at Mosul as a private individual. We skirted above Antle, and tortuously ascended the face of the mountain. I was sometimes suffering from fever ; ill,

, peevish, and weary,—but enjoyed myself well

, notwithstanding. We journeyed through strange regions, where Frank had never wandered. We saw the Koords as they are best seen, free in their own magnificent mountains ; — not

- not “the ass," as the Turk calls him, “of the plains.” Mahomet Pasha, son of the little standard-bearer, and Pasha of Mosul, was requested to provide for its defence by the consuls, and to attempt by

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“What can I do with people whose men have no religion, whose women are without drawers, their horses without bits, and their camels without halters ?

Thus we wandered over many miles, plains spreading between their fat mountains, splendid in their grandeur ; now amidst pleasant valleys, anon over giant passes

“ Dim retreat,
For fear and melancholy meet;
Where rocks were rudely heaped and rent,
As by a spirit turbulent;
Where sights were rough, and sounds were wild,
And everything unreconciled.”

My health after this gradually got worse ; repeated attacks of fever, brought on probably by my own carelessness, weakened me so much that I could scarcely keep up with the party. Riding was an agony, and by the carelessness of my servant my horses were ruined. One evening, an Abyssinian, one of my attendants, went so far as to present a pistol at my head. My poor dear

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