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CONTENTS.
brious Terms used by Turks against Christians-Gathering
Harvest-Character of the Christians of the East-Return to
Van-Turkish Doctors-Their Carousals-Taken by the Pasha
to his Country-house-His Opinion on the Affairs of Turkey-
Antiquity of Armenia as a Kingdom-Its present Power-
Servant beaten by Soldiers-How that Injury was redressed—
Leave Van-The Hasnedara of the Pasha-How his Memory of
me was to be kept lively-Pass several Villages-The Monastery
of Yavik
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99
CHAPTER VII.
Island of Chifis Kloster-Axbraf-Myriads of Gnats-Abundance
of Aquatic Birds on the Lake-Large Cemetery-Dispute as to
its Occupants between the Hadjee and the Armenian-Re-
flections in Illness-Fascinations of Travel-Spirit of Inde-
pendence it engenders-Variety of Scene-Girl's Advice to me
-The Veil, how regarded in ancient times-Disappointed in
finding Ruins-Serpent Rocks-Visit from two Priests, who
prove Job's comforters-Admiration by Villagers of the Russian
Rule-Autana, the Holy Island-The Old Man and his Legends
-Past Grandeur-Plain of Ardisch-Swarms of Locusts-Tent
pitched in a Prairie-Visit from Isman Bey-His Visit returned
-Furniture of his Tent-Shields and Spears of the Koords-
Mollah of Komdingars-His Gratitude for a trifling Present-
The Hadjee disputes with some Koords-Armenians on Route
for the Frontier-Arrive at Patnos-Fight between the Hadjee
and a Christian-Its Cause -How settled-Present Appearance
of Patnos-Its Buildings-Houses at Karakone-Its present
Aspect-Wonder of the ex-Bey that Englishmen should study
-Turkish Confidence in Christians as Guards of the Harem-
Its Cause-Karaka-Difference of Demeanour in Slaves and
Freemen-Arrival at Melasguird
CHAPTER VIII.
The Town of Melasguird-Some Account of an eccentric Dervish
-Kulitcher-People of the Village-Return of Illness-Sus-
picions of Robbery-The Chief detected and punished-Ren-
contre with the Groom-Unveiled Eastern Women-Careless-
ness of Eastern Parents as to the Cleanliness of their Children-
Kindness of Women at a Village-A wretched Altar-piece-
Welcome Verdure-Obstinacy of the Guide-His Dismissal and
Repentance-Boorish Koords-Journey pursued under increas-
ing Illness-Reach Hassan Kaleh-Armen to Khan-At length
reach Erzeroum-Kind Reception by the Consul and his Wife
-Care and Skill of Dr. Birge-My Recovery-Third conjec-
tured Site of Eden-Which was probably the Site?-Domestic
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viii
Economy of the Consul's House-Importance of Erzeroum-
Early History of Erzeroum-Present Inhabitants-Bazaars and
Khans Houses-Climate of Erzeroum-Castle Clock-Dress of
the People-The Pasha at Van, a Reminiscence Superstitions
of the Christians at Erzeroum-Produce of Goats' Hair-What
Articles are made from it-Harvest-Backshish for first fruits
--Preservation of Meat-Gardens around Erzeroum-Intro-
duction of Potatoes, and by whom-Timour and Badazet. . . 160
CHAPTER IX.
-
Departure from Erzeroum-Description of Guest-Houses-Ilijah-
Mineral Springs there Baths - Awkward Intrusion - The
Ladies alarmed--Fury of the Old Lady-Persian Acquaintance
-Change in the Aspect of the Country-Origin of the term
Giaour-Philosophy of my Persian Friend-Eski Alma to
Bairbout Scenery on the way-Town of Bairbout-Its Bazaars
-Bairbout to Balahor-Party of Ladies-Their Claim on my
Hospitality-Their Reception of me in the Evening-New
Cook-How he justified his bad Cookery-Caravan of Donkeys
-Evening Scene-Night Adventure-Renewal of the Contest
on the following day-More of the Philosophy of my Friend
the Persian-Beautiful Scene-The Surme Sar-River of Trebi-
zond-Sultan Mahmoud and the Dari Begs
CHAPTER X.
Visit from a Great Man-Pride of the Persian hurt-Evidences of
Civilisation as we proceed-Probable Passage of the Ancient
Greeks-Classical References-Arrival at Trebizond-Con-
signed to Quarantine-Evasion of the Persian-Quarantine--
Italian Innkeeper-Animated Scenes in the yard of the Quaran-
tine-Caravans-What they contain-Native Merchants-New
Road-Labourers employed upon it-Of whom composed-
Their Wages-Their Recreation during Work-Description of
Trebizond-Country around it-American Missionaries in Tre-
bizond—Difficulty of distinguishing the Sects-Easiest distin-
guished by their Invocations-Arabic Language-By whom best
spoken-Its numberless Words-The Pasha offers to punish
those who had misused me-Visit to the Pasha--Court of the
Serai, and what it contained-Mountain Dogs-The Pasha-His
early Life and Reminiscences-Description of the Mosque-
Trebizond Honey-Account of it by Xenophon-Family Names
adopted in the East-Baths-Antiquity of Trebizond-The
Port-Early History of Trebizond-Sultan Mohamet and Com-
nenus-George of Trebizond-Heroism of David Comnenus—
Lazistan-Account of the Laz
185
212
CHAPTER XI.
Departure from Trebizond-Steamer for Samsun-Passengers of
various Nations on board-Circassian Boy and Girl-Their Ap-
pearance Their Destination - Samsun-The Vice-Consul-
Walk in the Suburbs of the Town-Enlargement of the Town
-Excursion to Eski Samsun-Ruins-Remains of the Har-
bour-Churches-Trade of Samsun-Its Imports and Exports
-Silk Sherbet-Bazaars-The Castle-Lasso used in this
Country-Lasso described by Herodotus-Lasso employed by
the ancient Egyptians and Persians, as now employed in South
America-Foundation of Samsun-Eastern Repugnance to put
Animals to Death when it would be merciful to do so-Copper
Mines Start for Stamboul-The Steamer-Its Appointments
-English Engineer-Various Passengers-Circassian Girls, and
their Attendants-Their Dress and Appearance-The Renegade
and his Friend—Various Passengers, and their Expectations—
What caused my servant Abdallah to fight the Cook-Battle
Royal-Interference of the Captain-Fine Scenery not to be
enjoyed under certain circumstances-Constantinople in sight
-Its Appearance-The Black Sea-Increase of Trade at Tre-
bizond
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241
CHAPTER XII.
Apostrophe to Constantinople-Proposal of the Slave Dealer-No
Room at Misseri's Hotel-Hôtel de Pera-Valuable Hint to
Travellers respecting Servants-Dinners at Misseri's Hotel-
Various Guests-Walks about the City-Make an Acquaintance
---Origin of Constantinople-What Gibbon says of that City-
Sight-seeing-How managed-Mosque of St. Sophia -Its Mag-
nificence-What it may one day become-Mosque of Suleiman
the Magnificent-Visit the Seraglio-Tomb of Barbarossa-
Dancing Dervishes- Howling Dervishes and other Sects-
Accidental blowing up of a Turkish Line of Battle Ship-Visit
to the Ameer Beshir-My Reception-Long Conversation with
that Personage
263
56
CHAPTER XIII.
Departure from Constantinople-Embark in a Steamer-Destination
unknown-My Dog and the Agent-Reason why I was treated
with Civility during the Passage-Passengers--Young Turkish
Lady and her Grandmother-Death of a Child on board—
Heartlessness of its Father-Arrival at Smyrna-Make the
Acquaintance of a Jew-His Family-Their hopes of the
Restoration of their Race-Character and Qualities of Jews in
VOL. II.
b