LETTER XIII.

Kingston-Marshfield-Scituate-Hingham-Weymouth--Braintree-QuincyMilton-Dorchester-Its early settlement-Fortifications erected by Gen. Washington-Roxbury-Rev. John Elliot the Apostle of the Indians.

Dear Sir,

ON Monday, Oct 5th, I set out with one of my companions for Boston; the other two having gone forward on Saturday. A rain, which fell on Sunday evening, left us a delightful day. We rode through Kingstown, four miles; Marshfield, six; Scituate, twelve; Hingham, six; to Weymouth, four: thirty-two. During an early part of our journey we lost our way in consequence of the removal of a post-guide.

I ought to have mentioned, that on the mill stream which runs through Plymouth are erected two grist-mills, an oil-mill, a rolling-mill, a slitting-mill, and a mill for plating iron shovels. The stream, which originates in a large pond, descends rapidly, and furnishes always an abundance of water.

The road from Plymouth to Kingston is generally sandy but tolerable. Near Kingston it becomes hard; on a loam mixed with gravel. The soil, here, is fertile; and the surface, pleasant. The town contains several well-appearing houses; and the whole aspect of the country is sprightly and agreeable. Among the pleasing objects, which it presented, the re-appearance of thrifty New-England forest trees, was not the least inviting.

Kingston contained, in 1790, 1,004 inhabitants; in 1800, 1,037; and, in 1810, 1,137.

In this town lived the Hon. William Seaver, one of the most respectable men whom I ever knew.

From Kingston to Scituate the road was better and harder than any we had seen since we had left Rochester.

We passed through the Western parish of Marshfield, which contains a village of moderate size, compactly and tolerably well built, but with few marks either of thrift or poverty. The houses were of long standing, and imperfectly repaired.

In 1790, Marshfield contained 1,269 inhabitants; in 1801, 1,256; and, in 1810, 1,364.

As we came near Oakman's ferry, where we crossed North river, we were gratified by a succession of undulating grounds, covered with an excellent soil, and exhibiting the full New-England verdure, for the first time since we had left Rhode-Island. Several well-looking houses shewed, that the inhabitants had availed themselves of their advantages; and, together with a collection of thrifty groves, yielded a prospect very pleasing to us.

We crossed the river in a small, clumsy boat, rowed by a little boy; and, although it was no more than forty or fifty yards wide, experienced very serious anxiety. This stream rises in Pembroke; and, although it runs only between twenty and thirty miles, is so deep as to permit ships of three hundred tons, to descend into Massachusetts Bay, eighteen miles distant.

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Scituate, where we dined, is a collection of scattered plantations. The houses are generally decent; but the whole region wears remarkably the appearance of stillness and retirement; and the inhabitants seem to be separated, in a great measure from all active intercourse with their country.

Scituate contains three Congregations; two Presbyterian, and one Episcopal. The number of its inhabitants in 1790, was 2,856; in 1800, 2,728; and, in 1810, 2,969.

Hingham is a pretty village, neatly built around a handsome church, and exhibiting proofs of wealth and taste. The ground, on which it stands, is, however, unpleasantly broken by several small elevations, formed by collections of rocks; some of them very large and unsightly; thrown together in a disagreeable confusion. It is built at the head of a bay, which is an arm of the great bay of Massachusetts. The township is about four miles square; and includes two parishes, and three congregations. In 1790, it contained 337 houses, and 2,085 inhabitants: in 1800 the number of inhabitants was 2,112; and, in 1810, 2,382.

We arrived at Weymouth a little after sunset; and found tolerable accommodations, at a very handsome price. At the inn, where we lodged, a considerable number of men and women, of

different ages, from the neighbourhood, had assembled around a table, and were employed in playing at cards. Our first parents themselves; with all the advantages of innocence and solitude, were scarcely less anxious to be concealed from inspection, or more perfectly at their ease, while pursuing the employments of Paradise. The prospect, however, was, I presume, singular: for, in the numerous inns, at which I have had occasion to lodge, while travelling more than fifteen thousand miles, I have never in any other instance, seen such a collection, so employed.

Weymouth, originally named Wessagusset, was first planted by Mr. Weston, an English merchant, in 1622; but the settlement being soon broken up, it was not incorporated 'till 1685. The surface is undulating and stony, and the soil pretty good. Excellent cheese is made here, and a little commerce carried on.

The township includes two parishes. In 1790, it contained 1,469 inhabitants; in 1800, 1,803; and, in 1810, 1,889. The next morning we rode to Charlestown to dinner; through Braintree, Quincy, Milton, Dorchester, Roxbury, and Boston, seventeen miles.

At Weymouth the land begins to be uninterruptedly good, and the agriculture to assume a higher character. The houses, also, make a better appearance; are generally neat, and sometimes approach towards elegance. The country every where exhibits the aspect of thrift, and often of wealth. The surface is undulating and pleasant. The groves of oak and hickory, being tall and spiry, make, together with many beautiful single trees, a most pleasing impression on the traveller. At the same time there is a succession, at different intervals, of rocky protuberances, which are remarkably ragged, and follow each other so frequently, as materially to disfigure the prospect.

The beauty of this country, both natural and artificial, increased as we approached towards Boston. The surface became more soft and smiling; the houses more brilliant, and more numerous; their appendages more beautiful; and the wealth, and the taste, displayed, superiour. Indeed, from Weymouth the country may with little extravagance, be considered as one continued village,

raised up by the commerce of Boston, and forming a kind of suburb to that capital.

Quincy is a pretty town, built on a handsome plain, around a neat church. This is the residence of Mr. Adams, lately President of the United States. We called on this gentleman, and had every reason to be gratified with our reception. He has, in the literal sense, become a farmer, and pursues the business with much spirit. This employment, originally destined for man, and therefore so well adapted to his nature, is undoubtedly the happiest resort for a gentleman, retiring from the bustle of life; and is perhaps the only one, which will supply the chasm, left in an active mind, when separated from a long course of vigorous exertion. Every mind must have some engagement, or it will be unhappy. This to a man of sense must be rational, and useful; to a man of curiosity, instructive; to a man of dignity, honourable. I know not how "otium cum dignitate" can well be found, particularly in this country, by such a man, when declining in age, in any scenes except those of agriculture. In a counting room his appearance will be awkward and troublesome. From the bar he will be almost pushed away. In the Legislature he will pine under the visible loss of reputation and influence. An office will weary him with fatigue and perplexity. Besides, dccency demands, that he, who is seen to stand immediately before the gates of eternity, should not spend the little period which is left him, in the scramble of the present world. The very heathen seem to have felt this: it certainly ought to be felt by those, who call themselves Christians.

Quincy was, till lately, a part of Braintree, and is the most beautiful part. The present Braintree is a collection of farms, distinguished from the rest of this region by nothing uncommon. The original township was settled in 1625, by a Captain Wollaston, and from him was named Mount Wollaston. The next year he became discouraged, and went to Virginia, appointing a Mr. Fitcher his agent. Thomas Morton, who, as Mr. Prince says, had been a kind of pettifogger at Furnivals' inn, and was one of the company, excited a sedition against Fitcher, and compelled

him to flee. Morton then assumed the control of the plantation; and, having received some goods from England, began to trade with the natives. The trade was lucrative; and the company devoted their gains to rioting and drunkenness, and changed the name of the place to Merry Mount. Soon after, they began to sell arms to the savages. This alarmed the other plantations. The Colony of Plymouth wrote to him very civilly, and repeatedly, requesting him to desist from this commerce; but Morton treated the proposition with contempt. Upon which Captain Standish, with a small force, came to Mount Wollaston; dispersed the rioters, leaving a few of the more sober and industrious planters; took Morton, and carried him to Plymouth. The next year he was sent back to England.

Braintree was incorporated in 1640, and Quincy in 1792. Each of these townships includes a single parish. The original township of Braintree contained, in 1790, 420 dwelling-houses, and 2,771 inhabitants. In 1800, Braintree contained 1,285 inhabitants, and Quincy 1,081: 2,366. In 1810, Braintree contained 1,351, and Quincy 1,281: 2,632. Whether any part of the inhabitants have been annexed to any other township, I'am ignorant.

Milton lies immediately North of Quincy. It was anciently known by the name of Uncataquisset; and was incorporated in the year 1662. The prospects from Milton are remarkably fine. Much of the surface is elevated, and overlooks a great part of the surrounding region. A range of hills particularly, known here by the name of the Blue Hills, presents, in full view, Boston, and its environs, its harbour, Massachusetts Bay, together with the peninsula of Cape Cod, and the mountain Watchuset in the interiour.

Milton was the summer residence of Mr. Hutchinson, the author of the History of Massachusetts Bay, and the last royal governour but one of that Province. The letters of this gentleman concerning the political affairs of America, particularly of Massachusetts Bay, which have made so much noise in the world, were found in his house by Samuel Henshaw, Esq. who then occupied it. These letters have been generally supposed seriously to affect the char