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beautiful lake of vast extent; and the Jews told us, in a storm it rages like the great sea. We passed by the ruins of Capernaum, and wondered where Chorazin and Bethsaida are now-monuments of the truth of the Saviour's woe,-an awful warning to parishes that have a full Saviour preached among them and will not receive him. In returning to this place, we went to the top of Mount Tabor, where, in all likelihood, Jesus was transfigured. Mount Hermon, famous for its dew, lies immediately south; and over it we saw Gilboa, where David's curse still rests, and the dew falls not. Endor lay at our feet, and, still more interesting, Nain, where Jesus had compassion on the widow, and said, "Weep not." On coming down, we heard that the wild Arabs were that very night upon the hill, and that last night no fewer than twelve persons had been murdered there. The next day, between Nazareth and Acre, one of our servants who had gone a little way before us, fell in with eight armed Bedouins, who immediately carried him to the mountains, bound him hand and foot, threatened to kill him, stripped him of all he had, and carried off his horse. Meantime we passed safely on. Thus the Lord has delivered, doth deliver, and we trust will yet deliver us. Pray for us, that we may be both guarded and guided, and may have grace given us to execute our mission fully, prayerfully, and faithfully. We purpose, if God so direct our steps, to proceed by Smyrna and Constantinople, through Poland and Prussia. You will have heard that the two elder members of the mission have gone by another route. We hope that double information may thus be gained. Meanwhile, pray for the peace of Jerusalem: for the promise is sure, they shall prosper that love her. Stir up all Christian persons whom you know, and especially ministers, to take an interest in this great work. And thus, whether the time be near at hand (as I believe it is) or no, our own souls shall not lose the reward.

As to my health, it must be much improved, or I could not endure these great fatigues-sometimes riding 14 or 16 hours in the day, under a burning sun. Still I fear I am not yet quite fit for the work of the ministry. I wish I could learn complete submission to my Father's will. It is the hardest of all lessons. I hope you are keeping well this summer, and my excellent friend Miss Collier. Remember that this letter is half to her and half to you. I can never forget her; and hope she still holds up the hands of my successor as she did mine, by the prayer of faith. I thank my God upon every remembrance of her and of you all. Give my best regards to the worthy minister who dwells with you, and also to my good friend next door. I trust they both continue to find help, and comfort, and good success in their ministry; and O that we could always remember that the only right end of our ministry is the glory of Christ in the salvation of many souls! Pray for us, and for my poor flock, who lie heavy on my heart

night and day; and the Lord make you all to increase and abound more and more in every thing that is well pleasing in his sight. Yours affectionately, R. M. M⭑CHEYNE.

LETTER XIV.

TO HIS SISTER.

BEYROUT, 22nd July, 1839.

MY DEAR ELIZA,--I have just returned from my evening walk among the tombs of the Mussulmans; and now I think of beginning a letter to you, though it will be a long time before it reach you. How I wish you had been standing with me to-night to look upon the calm, clear, brightness of the Syrian sky, and upon the sea so perfectly smooth, like a sheet of molten silver-and the ships in the bay, every little cord so clearly seen-and then to turn the eye upon Lebanon with the last blush of sunset upon his towering heights! Or perhaps you would be more taken up with the strange groups that form themselves under the mulberry trees, or among the marble tombs-the beautiful turbans and soft white robes of the Easterns-and you would be struck to see some enjoying themselves on the roofs of their houses-white-veiled donnas and beautiful fairy-like children-their faces clearly seen against the blue sky beyond; and I know you would like to see each bearded Arab as he passed laying his hand on his bosom to wish you peace. It would be a great joy to me if you were here to share the evening hour after sunset. I can imagine your shouts of admiration. No other hour of the day would answer you because of the great heat. The thermometer is about 85°, Ì think, in the shade, which is not a very great heat; but then it is so still, there is so little air stirring, that the town is considered one of the warmest in Syria. I fear you would languish under it, my dear sister. You would do better for the mountains. On Lebanon you may have any climate of the world you please. Would you like the air of India? you have only to take up your abode in the depth of some of its deep valleys, and there you will find an Indian sun indeed. Do you prefer the coolness of Lapland? you have only to ascend and pitch your tent among its snows. Would you like the genial climate of south France? you have only to pitch on the side of the mountains, where you will have flowers and fruits in perfection. Ah! this is a delightsome land, if only the curse of God were lifted off. I never felt any climate so truly delicious as the air of the mountains of Judea.

My last letter would inform you of the departure of the Fathers of our deputation to proceed more directly homewards by another

route.

We are anxious to hear how they have got on. I fear you would be made a little anxious by hearing of our remaining behind in this troubled land. I am sure mamma would. However, I am very thankful we did so, as we have now visited all the towns in this land where there are Jews, except Joppa. We have, during the past fortnight, made one of the most delightful tours that could be found on earth, and I trust also with good success, as far as our mission is concerned. I am sure mamma will not be content without a journal; and therefore, if you will take your maps all in hand, you shall follow us every step of our journey. I told you that Mr. Calman, a Jewish convert, is now our companion. He and Andrew and I, and two Christian servants—that is, Papists-Botros and Antonio-and two muleteers, one a Maronite, the other a Druse-set off on six active Araby horses.

Friday, 8th July.-Our old servants accompanied us out of the gate, and bade us good-bye with tears on both sides. We proceeded south from Beyrout, travelling at the swift walk of the Syrian pony. Mount Lebanon, with its hanging villages, was over us several hours. I once counted 20 villages in sight at the same time. There are more inhabitants, I believe, in that mountain than in all the Holy Land. One part are Maronites, a kind of Christians, but image-worshippers, and of the deepest bigotry. The Druses are a mild race, the military possessors of the mountains; they are a kind of Mahommedans, though they sometimes claim affinity with Christians. In about 3 hours we reached the sea, and saw the sun go down, riding by its waves. We encamped about 10 at night at Nibi Younis, or the Prophet Jonah, being the place where the whale cast him on the dry land. I forgot to mention that we lost our way in the dark at the crossing of a broad river, but providentially regained it.

9th. Early the Dervish, or holy man of the place, came for a present; poor old body, he was very thankful. Started at 6. In 2 hours I was in Sidon, riding on before. There is something lively about an Eastern town at morning's prime. The country people are all bringing their cusas and melons to market on donkeys. The Moslem ladies, all in white with parti-colored veils, are wandering out to the tombs. I asked for the Menzellat Jehudi. A Jew soon took me by the hand and led me to his house --tied up my horse, and made me sit down upon his mat. After some discussion on Ezek. xxxvii., he gave me in charge to another Jew who took me to the Synagogue. Here we soon had a congregation. They opposed more bitterly than usual. However, we saw their mind-got our information, and left our testimony. one of the Rabbis took us to his house and gave us cool lemonade. Sidon is a pretty place-on a high promontory_running into the sea. Same day proceeded on our way to Tyre. Heard that a traveller was murdered on the road yesterday.

Committed our way to God, and found all quiet. A plain extends from Sidon to Tyre-the range of Lebanon bounding it pleasantly on the east-the blue Mediterranean on the West. Sarepta is among the villages on the brow of the hills. You remember Elijah and the widow, 1 Kings xvii. We slept that night at Kasmia, a khan within sight of Tyre. I wish you saw a Syrian khan. Some of them are 4 walls and a door, and nothing more. The most have a kind of arched place for your horse, and a stone room within for yourself. Some, as the one at Kasmia, are surrounded with a high wall. We pitched our tent on the roof and slept very securely. "So he giveth his beloved sleep."

10th. Spent an interesting morning with the Jews in Tyrefirst meeting with them in their wretched Synagogue, and then at the Rabbi's house, who treated us with coffee. They were uncommonly attentive to us at Tyre. I dare say 30 came to see us at the khan, so that we had full work opening to them the Scripture. Andrew and I speak to them chiefly in Hebrew, and we get on better now. Mr. Calman speaks the Arabic, and German, and Russian. A Jew led us about the town; the only one who had a little French. Tyre was once an island, now a promontory, being joined by Alexander with amazing labor. The causeway is quite evident, though the sand has made it now broader than the island. Old Tyre, destroyed by Nebuchadnezzar, was on the shore some miles off. It is hardly known where it stood, though one of the greatest cities of the world. The fisher spreads his net over it. Left about 2, proceeding due east for Saffet. We soon got up among the mountains of Asher, and noticed with delight the rich olive trees, fulfilling even still the word of Moses, Deut. xxxiii. 24, "Let him dip his foot in oil." We passed through some pleasant villages-Cana (not the one where Jesus made the water wine) and Zadiki—or "the place of righteous men." We entered the mountains of Naphtali by Wady Deb, the Valley of the Wolf, just as the sun had set. It is a splendid wooded ravine. The jasmine, hanging from tree to tree, scented all the air; but the danger was great, both from wild beasts which abound, and from wilder Arabs-and also from the rocky steeps we had to climb. But a Syrian horse is a singular animal; if you just give it its own way, you need fear little. We were truly glad and thankful to get to a quiet village on the top of the mountains, where the peaceable fellahs came all about us to see and hear till near midnight.

tramp of horses'

The next mo-
They had got

11th. We were awakened this morning by the feet. Saw a man fully armed looking in upon us. ment heard the voice of the French Jew of Tyre. news of a poor Jew being shot by the Bedouins 2 hours further on, and they were come to carry him, dead or wounded, to Tyre. This was rather serious news before our breakfast; but it only had the effect of drawing us closer to our heavenly Guide.

The Arab fellahs were going to some market, and wished us to go with them. I believe they wanted our protection; however, we thought it best to go the nearest way to Saffet. Such a splendid country we travelled through I never saw before-winding down wooded mountains, and then through narrow defiles into beautiful plains; but almost all is a wilderness. We had a good deal of anxiety all day. Kept all together and spoke little. We rested about 2 at a Maronite village, Caperbahum. You never saw such kind people. One insisted on our going into his house, the best in the village, and it was all we could do to get remaining under our fig-tree-another brought milk, another eggs, another 2 young pigeons. There was a constant circle of admirers around us the whole time. The two Maronite priests were also very kind, and we tried to give them some light on divine things. This night we arrived safe in Saffet about dark. Andrew's horse fell upon him coming down a rocky hill; he was not the least hurt, but the beast was lamed. How wonderfully we are cared for! Jews gave us one of their houses to stay in.

The

12th.-Saffet is a delightful place, being on the top of a very high hill. The air is cool and delightful. Twice this day we walked out to view the sea of Galilee, which seems to lie at your feet. It is 3 hours distant. Solemn, calm, and still; it is unlike any other lake I ever saw. The plain of Gennesareth on the right side was quite evident, where Capernaum stood. promontory we could discern part of Tiberias and the baths. On the other side of the lake the hills are steep and high, and come closer on the lake. Oh! how you would have enjoyed this view. I read over most of the words of Jesus uttered there. We went to the Synagogue the same night to see the Sabbath brought in, There are four in Saffet. Such venerable men you never saw, with long white beards, and such devoted worship. Some lifted their hands as in agony-some clapped their hands-some held them clasped. All were in motion rocking to and fro. Their cries were sometimes angry ones, as if they were angry that God did not hear.

13th.-Set off early for Marona, a village high on Mount Naphtali, where we visited the tombs of several Jewish saints. Higher up the mountain we came to Jermach, a village, and visited some Jews who live there, far from the haunts of men. They gave us fine Jewish bread, and milk, and cheese; and we in return told them of the way of salvation. Andrew spoke in German, and I stammered in Hebrew. Returned to Saffet enjoying the mountain air. Same evening had discussions with the Jews in two of their synagogues-very interesting. Therm. before dawn 58°; at 8 o'clock 64°; at 1 o'clock 76°.

14th.-Spent a pleasant Sabbath here. Not without causes of anxiety. The poor Jews have buried all their best clothes and valuables for fear of the Bedouins. They keep a watch every

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