Brody, then to Cracow, then to Berlin. thought.

Such is our present

Your joint letter was a great joy to me. I thank God, without ceasing, for his goodness to you all, and to my dear flock. The deaths you mention were all expected by me, except Dr. G.'s daughter. The newspapers I have never got read till yesterday. It has been a glorious Assembly. I do hope the Aden Mission will not be proceeded in at present. Moldavia is a strange land. I sometimes think of the gladiator's "rude hut" that lay by the Danube. I see plenty of "Dacian mothers and young barbarians all at play." Tell all my friends the reason of my not writing them. I shall try and make up for it now. How I wish I had you, dear Lizzy, to enjoy with me my renovated life. I feel like one come back from the grave. Give my best love to dear Willie. I am glad he feels better. Keep the heart with all diligence. Seek to advance in grace, and this will be joy to your affectionate brother,

ROBT. MURRAY M'CHEYNE.

3rd Sept.-To-night we have been freed from quarantine-all well. I am thankful to say that I still continue to improve. The Consul of Galatz invites us to breakfast to-morrow; and has provided two vehicles to carry us to Ibraila to-morrow evening. He is going with us. His name is Cunningham, from Edinburgh. The consul at Bucharest is also a Scotchman, a good, kind man, a friend of the Jews. God bless and preserve you all. This letter should have been sent from Beyrout more than a month ago. The letter I wrote from Smyrna, which should reach you long before this, will explain why it was not. I am thankful to say that I am now quite recovered from my illness; and though a little weak before breakfast, still I am quite well. We are now in the cool air of Europe-(I know mamma will be glad)-in Galatz quarantine, north of the Danube. My deafness is much better,-still I am a little deaf. If you have written to Warsaw, we will write for your letters. Write to Berlin. Do not put any thing about the deputation on our letters. The Austrians are very suspicious.

LETTER XIX.

TO HIS FATHER AND MOTHER.

BUCHAREST, 10th Sept. 1839.

MY DEAR FATHER AND MOTHer,

I do hope that my letter to Eliza from Galatz would relieve you of much of your anxiety on my account. I write again so soon, not

that I have any thing very new to communicate, but merely to assure you how well I am keeping, or rather kept, by the care of my heavenly Father. We left our quarantine of 7 days on Friday the 6th inst. -a pleasant day, just like one in our own country. A quarantine is just like a prison. You are inclosed within a certain space by a wooden railing. You live in a solitary room, where there is nothing but a table, and some boards in the shape of a divan or sofa. A guardiano is set over you, to see that you touch nobody, and also to bring you provisions. We were all smoked the first and second day; our clothes being fumigated for 24 hours. The English Vice-consul at Galatz came twice to see us, and kindly invited us to his house when done. He is a Scotchman, by name Charles Cunningham, brother to the proprietor of Bonnington Mills-educated at the Old High School. He took great pleasure in recalling past scenes in which we shared.

We felt like birds escaped from a cage when, after being examined by the doctor, we were let go. The consul's drosky soon brought us to his door. Galatz is a singular town; in many parts paved with wooden planks, like the American Corduroy. The houses mostly of wood. The Wallachians and Moldavians are singular looking men. In winter they wear a small fur cap of white or black. In summer, a broad black hat, which looks very odd. The hair is left, like Apollo's, unshorn, and hangs, black and matted, on the shoulders, or sometimes in graceful ringlets. They seem very gentle and submissive-take off their hats whenever you approach. Altogether, the character of the peasant approaches that of servility. Galatz is a thriving town, the port of Moldavia. The Jews are very numerous, and we paid an interesting visit to them. The same evening we rode down to Ibraila in the Consul's drosky, himself accompanying us on horseback. He has a pleasant house there also. Nothing could exceed his kindness, and we tried to return it as best we might, by leading him to think of the unsearchable riches.

We had ordered the post for the next morning; and accordingly, at an early hour 3 carriages, having 4 horses each, were at the door. I am afraid you will think the deputation have gone out of their mind when you read of such style; but this is the only way of posting in this country, and had you seen the equipage, I think you would have been amused. The vehicle is a low cart, made of wood and wicker-work, set without springs upon 4 low wheels of wood. Four small horses are attached by ropes to the

pole. The cart is filled with straw, among which you lie as you best can. Such wretched vehicles I never saw. To add to our dismay the day was rainy, the first we have seen since leaving England. The Consul insisted on our staying all day with him, and sent back to Galatz for his covered carriage, called Brashovanka, that we might proceed more comfortably. This gave us opportunity to visit the Jews of Ibraila, whom we found deeply

interesting. It is a clean town, nicely built, with broad streets. The Jewish, Russian, and Greek, are the chief costumes.

The same evening, at 9 o'clock, we set off for the capital of Wallachia. We were all three snugly lodged in the Brashovanka-a vehicle which it is not easy to describe. Twelve horses were yoked in, and we soon left Ibraila far behind. I had my feet up, and my coverlet about me, so that I was quite comfortable all night. The Wallachian drives with enormous speed-dashes over their vast plains often at full gallop. We stopped and breakfasted next morning in a small cottage, just like a Highland one, the gentle Wallachians standing by wondering. They gave us plenty of milk, and we had brought other necessaries with us. Their language contains a great deal of Latin. They are supposed to be descendants of the Roman colony planted in Dacia. "Domine, da buckshish," was the postilion's demand-"Sir, give a present." "Cuin Latra," the peasant cried-"The dog barks." "Canis latrat." "Domine, nosti Romanisti ?”—"Sir, do you know the Roman language?" one man asked. This is a source of great amusement. Again we flew over the uncultivated plain-away, and away, like the wind. The 12 horses we exchanged for 8, being more handy. There are no inns upon the road, and scarcely any houses. We came through only two villages in the 120 miles. The day was very fine, and we enjoyed it much. At the post the horses were often to seek, and as we could not speak the language we could not hurry them, so that we were delayed long beyond. the usual time, and it was two o'clock on Sunday morning before we rattled into the streets of this city. We found a khan with great difficulty; and, wrapping ourselves in our mats, were soon asleep.

We

A khan is a curious place. This one was of large dimensions, having an area of nearly an acre. The ground-floor is the restingplace of the horses and carriages; the second floor for passing travellers; the third floor for those who stay six months. Such curious groups were gathered on the Sabbath morning when I looked out! The Russian, with his light hair and light-blue eyefierce and blunt. The Greek, with his showy red coat and picturesque trowsers; and the dark-moustachioed Wallachian. could not spend a very profitable Sabbath here, and, accordingly, removed to Khan Simeon, a quieter and smaller one. The Greek is the only faith of Wallachia, and the Sabbath is not at all observed. We had a visit from Mr. Colquhoun, Consul-general, the same evening. He is the proprietor of Fincastle, on the Tummel, a relation of Principal Macfarlan, and a real Scotchman-a very pleasant gentleman. We have dined with him every day since. We have learned, since our arrival, that Dr. Keith and Dr. Black visited this place. This is a pity, as it is a waste of money and of our time; but we had fully agreed that they were to write us if they visited it. Either they did not write, or their letter has

miscarried. However, God may have some end in thus making us doubly search this place.

We have had most interesting interviews with the Jews. It is their feast of the new year, and of blowing the trumpet, and casting their sins into the river. There are about 3000 Jews here. The city has 120,000 inhabitants, and 366 churches. It is built on a plain. To-day we were present at a religious ceremony on the Prince's birth-day. It was in the metropolitan church-a gaudily painted church-very handsome. The Prince Meloch, at present here an exile from Servia, attended by several nobles, was present; also the Consuls of the different nations, in their uniforms. The Prince of Wallachia, being unwell at the time, was not present. There was a vast number of lighted candles. The priests went round and round. Many prayers were said and sung. The dresses were very splendid, with silver and gold. The crowd was very great-all standing. We. being British, were brought forward among the officers. The chief people afterwards came forward and kissed the cross, the Bible, and the priest's hand, taking the bread of the Supper. When all the gay people were gone, we stayed behind, and saw the poor going through their superstitions. An open silver coffin was displayed, and in it a dead body appeared to be wrapped up in cloth of gold. One skinny hand was displayed, and a cross beside it. A little plate was placed at the feet to receive donations. The worshippers first kissed the ground, some 3, some 30 times. Then approaching, they kissed the hand of the dead saint, and the cross, and the priest touched their forehead. Our hearts sickened as we looked on. Officers, ladies, and peasants, all pressed forward. saint is Saint Demetrius. When will the time come that light will break in here? The Consul offered to present us to the Prince at the levee, which we declined. In the afternoon we had a most interesting interview with a Rabbi from Corfu, and a full opportunity of laying before him the Gospel of the grace of God. I must hastily conclude this letter, as I have to take it to the Consul's, and we leave for Jassy to-night in our Brashovanka. I fear, mamma, you will hardly learn the name. I am now quite well; I do not know that I have felt better since leaving England. How long it may be so, our heavenly Father only can decide; and into whose hands could I submit my soul and body more joyfully? Oh, may it be that you all know Him, each for his own! Andrew is quite well, and pressing me to have done. We are grieved to hear that Dr. Black was seriously unwell when here. He is now on the Danube. They have had three times longer quarantine than we. We reach Foxani by to-morrow evening, where we shall rest, and see the Jews. Sixteen hours more will land us in Jassy, if all goes well. May the Lord watch over you both, and over dear Eliza, and Willie, and my flock;

The

and may Israel soon be saved, and so my desires are ended. Your affectionate son,

ROBT. MURRAY M'CHEYNE.

LETTER XX.

TO THE REV. R. S. CANDLISH.

BOSSANZE, ON THE AUSTRIAN FRONTIER, 26th September, 1839.

MY DEAR SIR,-I feel thankful to God that I am enabled to write you once more. You have heard of my severe illness, and how wonderfully I was brought through it. "For a small moment He hid his face from us, but with great mercies hath He gathered us." I am now completely restored to my usual health and strength, and able to take part in our interesting mission. We are now far from Immanuel's Land, with all its objects of interest. Lebanon and Carmel have faded from our view; but we have now come into contact with the Jews more than ever. We feel the cause engrossing our souls more and more every synagogue we visit; and every night our hearts' desire and prayer is more deeply felt, that Israel may be saved.

Since our last letter, we have gone through the two principalities of Moldavia and Wallachia. We have visited the ports of each upon the Danube, their two capital cities, and several smaller towns upon the road. We have made every inquiry in our power regarding Israel; have visited their synagogues, conversed with their Rabbis and teachers, and have often laid before whole companies of Jews "the unsearchable riches of Christ." It will be more interesting to you if I go over the way by which we have been led. You must take your map in your hand and follow; it will cost you less fatigue than it cost us.

We first directed our steps to the thriving town of Galetz, the port of Moldavia. The first view of it, lying among acacia trees, was pleasant to our eyes, after the dismal walls of our quarantine. The houses are mostly of wood and clay, whitewashed. Many of the streets are paved with wood. In walking through the town, it was pleasant to meet so many Jews, and to see them all busy in their shops. They all wear the long beard and ringlets; the broad German hat, or the high beaver cap; a long black gown and belt,—so that they are easily known. We visited the Rabbi and synagogue. They were very suspicious of us at first, supposing us to be Greeks; but at the sound of the Hebrew they became more friendly. There are about 1500 Jews in this place; according to the Vice-consul, 2000. They are all mechanics and money-changers; and have no lack of