After passing Fitz-Roy island the river is again clear, and a mid-channel course may be steered, about S.W. by W. The country about this part of the river is hilly.

Dangerous Shoal.-About 8 miles to the south-west of Fitz-Roy island, and about 1 cable from the left bank, is a very dangerous shoal, dry in December, but covered a month earlier. To avoid it, pass within a cable's length of a conspicuous rocky islet about 30 feet high, named Tai-tzu-chi, which lies nearly in the centre of the river, and cannot be mistaken.

Lang-kiang-ki.-From thence, until past Lang-kiang-ki, or Hen point, numerous rocks lie in the bed of the river. From Lang-kiang-ki a dangerous cluster extends for more than half way across the river. In November the outer rock was marked by a small bush sunk on it; it was however dry in December. To clear these dangers, keep the left bank of the river aboard, the course becoming again southerly for 5 miles, when steer to the westward through Nganking reach.

Nganking Reach.-Approaching Nganking, keep the left or north bank of the river aboard, and pass close under the walls of the city, 14 mile, to avoid extensive shoals and mud flats which exist on the other bank. After passing Nganking the river is again clear, steering south-westerly until passing a sandy point, when the course becomes West, keeping on the left bank.

Christmas Island.-After rounding a small islet, called Rover island, the course is again to the southward, gradually approaching Christmas island, the southern point of which should be passed at about 1 cable, to avoid some mud flats lying on the left bank, and only dry in December.

Tungliu Reach.-Having passed the above flats, a mid-channel course may again be steered, until approaching Tungliu, a third-class city, with rather formidable looking walls, built on the right bank of the river, and abreast which, on the left bank, an extensive flat is in course of formation. It will be advisable to give the point, on which stands Tungliu pagoda, a good berth, as, although shallow water was not obtained there, a great commotion was observed in the stream, apparently caused by some rock, or other check to its

even course.

After passing this pagoda, keep on the right bank of the river, thereby avoiding some banks in the centre, dry in December. The squadron, ascending the river in November, crossed over to the left bank, and became entangled among these shoals, the Furious grounding on one; they lie abreast three brick-kilns, looking like mounds of earth and stones. In January the Furious and Cruizer cleared them by keeping close to the right bank, and had deep water. When abreast Hwayuen-chin, where there is a custom-house having flag poles, these dangerous banks will have been passed.

On the right bank of the river there are some high ranges, but the left is flat; and although the river banks were in November and December from 25 to 30 feet high, the country showed evident signs of being frequently inundated; punts were found at most of the farmhouses as far inland as 3 or 4 miles, affording a very significant hint as to the state of the country when the river is at its high level; the left bank, and probably both, would then be covered, the river becoming a large lake; under these circumstances, it would be advisable

to keep in the most rapid part of the current, as it always runs strongest in the deep water.

Bullock Reach.-At Dove point the river takes a sudden bend at right angles to its former trend for a short distance, the course being about W.N.W.; keep the left bank aboard, until entering Bullock reach, when a S.S.W. course is gradually obtained.

Little Orphan.-Near the southern termination of Bullock reach is the Siauku shan, or Little Orphan, a most remarkable small rocky islet, rising almost perpendicularly out of the river, and nearly 300 feet high. It has some temples on its summit; and half way up its southern face some houses are perched. In November it was separated by a very narrow belt of water from the left bank, but in December its base was connected to it by mud.

Immediately abreast the Little Orphan a bold rocky head, crowned by forts and look-out houses, rises abruptly to a height of 400 feet. The right bank of the river is still rich in hills, which about here are very rocky and uneven. A mid-channel course may be steered in passing the Little Orphan; no bottom at 9 fathoms was obtained, until nearly abreast Siah-kia-kau, when the left bank was approached, to avoid some shallow sand banks near the opposite shore, the course becoming about West for 5 miles, when still keeping to the left bank, it takes a more southerly direction into Blackney reach.

Blackney Reach.-About half way down this reach is a shallow, apparently extending right across the river, and over which, in December, the greatest depth appeared to be about 14 feet. After passing a village on the north edge of a small creek or stream about a mile, steer S. by W. for a low point, near which are some houses, (Chang-kia-kau,) until the water deepens to 5 fathoms, when the right bank may be followed, gradually deepening the water to 8 and 10 fathoms. Off Becher point a sharp helm will be required, the eddies here being very rapid.

Oliphant Island, lying westward of Becher point, is about 5 miles long, and divides the river into two branches, which are both shallow. The southern branch was used in November, when 34 fathoms was the least water obtained; the northern branch was examined, but not approved of, as, although more water was found in it several dangerous banks were sounded on. On 22d December the water had fallen 7 feet since the examination of these channels in the preceding month, consequently it was found necessary for the Furious and Cruizer, when descending the river, to wait a rise in the river before attempting either channel. They were anchored off Kiu-kiang, and were detained there some days; when the shoals having been carefully buoyed, and a rise of water having fortunately taken place, the north channel was passed. Opposite Becher point are several sand hills on the right bank of the branch which conducts the tributary waters of the Poyang lake into the main stream. A temple, built on a steep cliff, will also be seen on the same bank.

Seymour Reach.-After passing the west end of Oliphant island, the course is S.W. by W., past Kiu-kiang, which stands on the right bank of the river, and has most imposing looking walls, enclosing desolation and ruin. After entering Seymour reach, the trend of the river is more northerly, and a midchannel course may be safely steered.

Hunter Island.-In November the channel south of Hunter island was passed through, but much difficulty was met with in getting the Furious over a flat extending right across the river, and on which are several sand banks. This shallow ground lies abreast some very conspicuous red cliffs, from 40 to 60 feet high, situated on the right bank of the river. When opposite the west

end of these cliffs, cross the river carefully, feeling the way by the lead.

In December the channel north of Hunter island was taken. The Furious grounded, but after some hours worked a passage for herself through the mud, and got into a vein of deep water very close to the left bank.

Court Reach.-Steer in mid-channel through Court reach, about W. by S., passing the town of Wu-hiu-tsun, which stands on the left bank. Three miles west of this town some hills, about 600 feet high, occur on the left bank. Fu-tsz-kau.-Opposite the town of Fu-tsz-kau some shallows are forming in the river. The right bank appears to have most water.

Ke-chau.-The course up the river is now about N.N. W. No shallows appear to exist after passing Fu-tsz-kau until approaching Ke-chau, when a remarkable ruined fort, standing on an isolated rock, must be closed, in order to avoid mud flats lying off the right bank. On passing two small hills about 2 miles below Ke-chau on the right bank of the river, steer for the ruined fort, passing it a hundred yards outside, and the shore at Ke-chau at the same distance; by this means the mud flats which extend some 4 miles parallel to the bank will be avoided.

Ward Reach, which trends about N.N.W. and S.S. E., is now entered, and appears to be quite safe and clear; the left bank of the river was kept aboard by the squadron, and no check whatever was experienced.

Ke-tau, or Cock's Head, may be passed close to. It is a remarkable bluff, rising perpendicularly to a height of 300 feet on the right bank of the river, and cannot be mistaken.

Lee Rock.-A dangerous collection of rocks, on which the Lee struck, lie abreast some limestone quarries, at a place called Shih-wuy-aou, on the right bank; in December there were only 6 feet water on them. From Ke-tau steer West, being careful not to approach the right bank until Cock's Head is touching the low point of the opposite shore (left bank), when the Lee rock will have been passed to the northward. The right bank may now be kept aboard, passing close to the densely populated little town of Hwang-shih-kang, when the left bank should be gradually closed, taking the channel east of Collinson island. A small rocky hill, 70 feet high, and about 2 miles north of Hwangshih-kang, lies on the left bank, and marks the commencement of this channel; in navigating which, the left bank is to be kept aboard.

Collinson Island.-Off the north end of this island is an extensive flat, extending across the river; 4 fathoms was the deepest water found about midchannel. A careful lead is the best guide here. The right bank may now be gradually closed, and, passing the small village of Yang-ki, kept close aboard, to avoid a bank on the opposite shore, and which was dry in December.

Paho Reach.--After passing a small ridge of hills, on one of which is a remarkable and conspicuous boulder, cross over to the left bank, to avoid some shallow ground lying off the small village of Tsz-ko-kang; 3 fathoms was the APP. 20

153

most water found at this crossing. On obtaining 5 fathoms on left bank, steer boldly up the Paho reach, passing northward of two rocks, one 18 and the other 10 feet high; the latter lies north of Wu-chang-hien. In the summer these rocks would be covered; to avoid them, keep the left bank aboard.

Bythesea Channel.-After passing Wu-chang-hien, a mid-channel course may be steered, until abreast Hwang-chau pagoda, on the left bank of the river, when edge over towards the Bythesea channel. The squadron ascending and descending the river was compelled to use this channel, there not being sufficient water for the Furious in the eastern channel.

The Bythesea channel must be navigated with extreme caution, keeping the right bank aboard; it is so narrow that a vessel touching on either side, and swinging across, would ground on the opposite bank, and have the whole weight of the stream pressing her down. At an earlier period of the year the eastern channel would have plenty of water in it, and, if so, the Bythesea channel should be avoided. The course now becomes North, and the river clear. Gravener island should be kept aboard, to avoid sand banks on the opposite shore.

Washington Reach.-After passing Gravener island, a sudden bend of the river leads into Washington reach, through which a mid-channel course (about W.S.W.) may be taken; 4 fathoms was the least water found in this reach in December, and the river was then nearly at its lowest level. The right bank is to be approached on nearing some rising ground about 300 feet high, which lies on that side of the river; from thence the same bank is to be followed, as there appears to be shallow water off the left bank after passing the Pih-hu shan, or West Tiger-hill, a prominent elevation about 400 feet high. The river again takes a northerly course (about N.N.W.), and appears to be clear, and free from any impediments.

Yang-lo, a small town on the left bank, may be approached close to; a ruined temple standing on the spur of a hill, one mile south of Yang-lo, is a conspicuous object.

Pakington Reach.-A mile north of Yang-lo, Pakington reach is entered, the course taking rather a sharp turn to the westward, gradually turning to the southward into Hankau reach.

Hankau Reach trends nearly S.W. and N.E., becoming still more southerly at Hankau. The two last-named reaches are, by keeping on the left bank, free of any impediments. North of a remarkable bluff (200 feet high), called Kin-shan, which is on the right bank of Pakington reach one mile inland, lies a sand bank, which dries in December; it is easily avoided by nearing the left bank. Opposite Hanyang, just above the entrance to the river Han, lies an extensive mud bank, dry 4 feet in December. A spit, gradually deepening, stretches to the northward from this, and affords good anchorage in from 3 to 7 fathoms.

Hankau.-At Hankau, lat. 30° 32′ 50′′ N., long. 114° 20′ E., 384 nautical miles above Nanking, the river still maintains the same characteristics, showing no signs whatever of a decrease either in breadth or depth. No bottom at 9 fathoms was obtained.

The cities of Hankau and Hanyang stand on the left bank of the river, and Wuchang the provincial capital on the right bank. Hankau

mouth of the Han.

means

CHAPTER VII.

EAST COAST OF CHINA.-HWANG HAÏ OR YELLOW SEA; GULFS OF PE-CHILI AND LIAU-TUNG.

VARIATION 2° 0' to 3° 30' West, in 1861.

The Hwang Hai, or Yellow Sea, is bounded on the west by the deep bight of the coast formed between the Yang-tse kiang and Shan-tung promontory, and on the east by the coast of Korea. It is mostly muddy, and of a yellow colour near the land, nor has any part of the coast been explored between the Yangtse and the promontory.*

Hwang Ho, or Yellow river, the entrance to which is said to be in lat. 34° 2' N., long. 119° 51′ E., is almost if not quite closed by its own silt. The whole of the low coast between it and the Yang-tse is fronted by extensive flats and shoal banks, projecting in some places above 60 miles from the land, and rendering the approach dangerous.

Urh Tao耳島

or Ear island, also called Staunton island, is in about lat. 36° 47′ N., long. 122° 16′ E. It is of middling height, and lies near the south point of the peninsula of Shantung.

Acteon Shoal.-A dangerous shoal, lying to the southward of the Shantung promontory, was sounded on by H.M.S. Actœon. The least depth obtained on it was 22 feet, in lat. 36° 31′ N., long. 122° 28′ E.; but less water probably exists.

Approaching the shoal from the southward, the depth gradually decreased from 12 fathoms at 8 miles south of the shoalest part, to 10, 8, 7, and 5 fathoms, and then rather suddenly to 22 feet; it then rapidly deepened to the northward. The land was in sight occasionally through the haze, but not sufficiently distinct to get bearings of its extremes.

Caution.—Until an opportunity offers of ascertaining the dimensions and features of this shoal, vessels approaching its vicinity should keep a careful lead going. It will be prudent not to make the land until nearly on the parallel of the promontory.

Shantung Promontory, in lat. 37° 25′ N., long. 122° 45′ E., and the easternmost land in China, is the eastern extremity of Shantung province. The promontory is high and bold, with a rugged termination near the sea, and has a small pagoda near its end. The soundings are 16 and 18 fathoms about 9 miles from the promontory, but increasing fast to 30 and 40 fathoms, when it is approached within 3 miles.

* See Chart: China, from Hongkong to Liau-tung, No. 1,262; scale, d

-2 inches.